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sondat

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Posts posted by sondat


  1. So the truck is running well, a couple issues to iron out. Has anyone experienced there reverse lights coming on for long periods of time while driving (when not in reverse)? They aren’t coming on when dog leg is put in reverse. The reverse lights were working properly when truck was first wired up. I’m thinking it is the switch itself.


  2. I am struggling with door seals for my sons 521. We bought new seals about 2.5 years ago, will have to look back at our records as to where we bought them. Installed them before the doors were hung, once doors were on they wouldn’t fully latch, rubbers are a little to thick.

    • Like 1

  3. It's been over 3 years since we started this project and its finally on the road. still a few clean up things to do like mount the bumper, turn signal canceling pins and some interior work. The 3 point seat belts went in after some sweat and cursing. I managed to drop the backing plate we were installing down the passenger side B pillar. caught the string I had tied to it with a coat hanger through the striker plate hole then fished the top half of B pillar to get it back out.

     

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    The windshield wiper pivot threads were stripped (large nuts that tighten on outside of truck). Machinist at my work had an adjustable die to cut new threads and then he made new nuts to match the newly cut threads.

     

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    Also trimmed back the original fan shroud since the fan for the L20b is bigger.

     

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    Picked my son up with it when he was finished his shift at work, he didn't know it was drivable. Great day.

     

    A few pics from around town.

     

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  4. So I put the original coil and ballast resistor back in till I get the EI dizzy sorted out. Setting timing and checking carb adjustments tonight. Hey d.p. I know I haven’t posted pics lately, getting the doors on tomorrow and hopefully have it back on it’s feet soon (off the stands). I’ll post the latest progress probably in the morning and hopefully have it’s first test run and some pics of that soon. Thanks for the response mainer311 I should be ok since I went back to the original equipment (temporarily).

     

    • Like 1

  5. while tuning newly rebuilt L20b discovered issues with EI dizzy with remote ICM. Swapped out dizzy to original points distributor and runs like a top. Will look into issues with EI dizzy but for now will run the points dizzy (single set of points). Question, any concerns running the higher output coil with the points dizzy?

    • Like 1

  6. Update on the never ending project. Towed our 521 to a trusted shop for 2” exhaust with a super turbo muffler. They also did an alignment and fired it up confirming our thoughts on replacing the carb. Weber is on order, should be here any day. Also had the bed liner sprayed in. Things left are hang the doors, windshield wipers and motor install, bleed the breaks and clutch slave and order some seatbelts. List is looking a little more manageable. mainer311, I PM’d you a while back on that spare tank, sorry to say we’re going to hang on to it. 

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  7. Has anyone purchased aftermarket 3 point retractable seatbelts for there 521 using original bench seat? I have researched a couple of online company’s that have these belts with a chrome lift latch buckle. My concern is that when the bench seat is positioned all the way back the side of the seat back is very close (if not touching) the B pillar interior metal, this is the path for the seat belt webbing coming out of the retractor. I’m worried this will effect the functionality of the seat belt retractor working properly in a crash. I guess to be safe we could go 3 point non retracting belts and manually adjust them. Any thoughts?

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  8. The only picture of our L20-b build showing the end of the chain guide near the mention thermostat bolt isn't too clear but I think you can see a small gap of clearance.

     

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    If you can zoom in on the picture I posted you can see the rubber lining as well on the chain guides. Looks like yours is worn away due to the long bolt issue.

    • Like 1

  9.    Since both doors were gutted for body work and paint, today was the day to re-assemble. A lot of time passed since we dissembled and the reference pictures only helped so much. I am posting our assembly experience with many reference pictures for any one else tasked with this chore. First we started with the purchase of all new rubber and felt, I would have to look back almost 3 years to see where my son purchased the channel felt that runs the border of the window frame. As for the no draft window rubber and the felts/squeegees they were recently purchased on E-Bay from Australia. 

     

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        I looked briefly on Ratsun and found some help on the instal of the glass but was still struggling. Must have had the no draft glass and roll down glass in 5 or 6 times in different sequences, with and with out the perimeter felt in place but couldn't get both pieces of glass to fit. I'm sure there's other ways to achieve this but here's what ended up working for us.

    I should mention that this sequence works with or with out the door handle/latch mechanism in place because the first door we did had the latch mechanism in where as the other door didn't.

     

      -Started by installing the perimeter felt in the channel of the door (at back of door and top of window frame) also in channel of the no draft window frame.

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       - Place the window crank mechanism in the door just laying at the bottom (facing the correct way). Then lower side glass into door using string at each end to cradle as well as          being able to pull glass up when required.

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          -This part is still a little tricky but you can see the no draft window going in at an angle. There is just enough room to have the channel felt in the no-draft window to engage the top front corner of the door glass. This is when you need to confirm that the back edge of the door glass is lined up with the groove of the felt at the back of the door. With this all lined up, as you lever the no draft window frame into place it forces (gently) the door glass into both front and back channel felt.

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       -The pictures are hard to capture what's going on inside the door but hopefully my instructions are clear enough. Now the window can be pulled up using the strings then reach in through one of the access holes and grab the window crank mechanism, it needs to be fed between the tail end of the no-draft window channel and the threaded mount inside the door. The plastic wheel can now be slid into bottom of door glass channel. Once regulator spline is positioned through hole you can use handle to operate regulator to line up 4 mounting screw holes, then secure.

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       -I've read that if there's too much padding when door cards are re-upholstered that the handles can rub and or not function properly. There is minimal foam under the vinyl but the handles still want to rub. I took a small rubber grommet just the right diameter and stuffed it into the female spline of the handles which still allows the spline to engage the handle but shims it out a little to avoid rubbing.

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     -The guts of one door now complete, we installed poly over access holes then new upholstered door card.

     

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    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  10.    I have a spare tank but I bet shipping would be pretty steep . It is out of our truck that we parted out. It looks about the same shape as the original tank that we wire wheeled the outside of and painted it up. I scoped the inside of both tanks and they looked comparable as well, just some small surface rust spots but overall pretty clean inside. I was thinking of taking the sending unit out for a spare. Your ride looks great, nice clean truck. I do like the mirrors, curious what the functionality would be like with them further from the driver position. We struggled with location of side mirrors since all the old holes were welded up which gave us a clean slate for placing them. We went near the no draft windows. I had the previous week off so got lots done. Wired up and installed new Lumen LED halo head lights, replaced flashers to electronic (as you know), permanently installed gauge cluster, heater, sun visors and front valance.

     

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    The no draft windows were previously dissembled and powder coated black to match the rest of the look of the truck. My son and I spent about 5 hours in the basement today installing all the glass with all new rubbers/seals, also the re-upholstered door cards. I am going to start a separate post on our experience installing the glass, what a bear that was. Now that we got that process dialled in, others might like us to share.

     

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    • Like 6

  11. I get it now mainer311. I wasn’t optimistic going into it, thought I’d still have an electrical nightmare to chase down. What a pleasant surprise. Tested all the indicator bulbs in the gauge cluster, all rang out good but the left turn signal indicator isn’t working, maybe in the circuitry of the gauge cluster some where. What’s going on with your ride mainer311 back on the road?

    • Like 1

  12. Will do Mike. Was playing around with newly installed led headlights tonight and noticed the right turn signal indicator does light up faintly when signal is on. Either a grounding issue or the required electronic flasher. I suppose I could pull the one from my 2008 F150 to try.

    • Like 1

  13. Have the front signal lights hooked up, they are only LED lights so I’m assuming it’s not adding much draw. I will pick up the solid state flashers tomorrow for turns and hazards. I’m not optimistic that this will fix my problem. Here’s some symptoms. Hazards work front and back with key on, hazards work back only with key off. Turn signals need key on (of course) but they only come on steady (no blinky), and the signal indicators don’t work at all, hazards or turn signals. I’ve rung out the indicator bulbs, there good. I’ve also bypassed the hazard switch giving the same results, so hazard switch is good. Thoughts?

    • Like 1

  14. Good info fellas. The batteries brand new, I will check what it’s putting out. Only the tail lights are hooked up so the flasher is lightly loaded. Mike, is this the reason for the slower blinking with the hazards? Still not sure why the turn signals are acting the way they are though.

    • Like 1

  15. Back to it! Had a couple weeks of visiting family but off work this week so trying to finish up some loose ends on the truck. Having an issue with the turn signals. The hazards work but turn signals don’t, when TS lever is pushed the light goes on steady, no flashing. I’ve confirmed the signal light housings are grounded as well as the turn signal switch. Not sure if this matters but the hazard lights flash at a slow rate (might be normal?) I tried a different flasher unit for the signals with the same result. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Cheers.


  16. I will have to look back at all my pics and this thread cause there was some discussion during this portion of the engine build. Talking about what position to have the timing sprocket set on. It was position 2 by the way. I wonder if Shadbolt cams in Vancouver screwed our performance grind up enough to cause this issue?

    • Like 1

  17. This is where we noticed the fuel leak is right where the throttle linkage enters the carb. Was thinking it was a improperly installed seal, assuming this seal comes with the rebuild kit. What your saying is the carb housing could be worn out? Hoping this is our lack of vacuum issue.

    • Like 1
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