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sondat

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sondat last won the day on October 13 2018

sondat had the most liked content!

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About sondat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars
    521
  • Interests
    521 restore with my son

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  1. sondat

    new member, first post.

    I’ve read quite bit on this forum about the first start of a rebuilt L series. Most are saying to prime first by either swaping oil pump/distributor drive shaft for a temp rod to free spin oil pump or sending pressurized oil in where the oil pressure sender is. Not sure which way we’ll go yet or use either of those methods at all. We have applied white grease throughout during assembly as well as Lucas brand assembly lube to the top end, that stuff seems really slick and sticks to components well. Can’t recall mainer311, did you do a engine rebuild?
  2. sondat

    new member, first post.

    A month has flown by since my last post, nothing has visually changed much so no pics. We did get the fuel tank in, fuel lines and finished up the wiring. We want to pull oil pump off and pack with petroleum gel before the first start up. Other than that, started getting guts back into doors. We did order replacement 1/4 window rubbers from Australia, will be a couple weeks I’m sure. Was reading all the history on other members ordering from him so we’ll see how this goes. I see he also offers the window felts that run horizontally in the door window opening, might have to get those as well.
  3. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Had a productive day in the garage which included completing heater hoses using the Gates Toyota hose, installed Hitachi carb and swapped out to the clear glass to see the fuel level and float. Was hopping to use the carb glass from our 1300 parts truck which has the added Nikki logo but the glass is smaller. Had to use the glass from the original 1600 carb. Mounted coil and remote ignitor, ran all required switched and power feeds to electric choke, idle cut solenoid, coil and remote ignitor. Just a little more clean up of the emissions wiring that isn't needed and then on to the fuel system.
  4. sondat

    new member, first post.

    No Weber yet cause of the budget. It can be a easy enough upgrade to do later. Will see how this rebuilt Hitachi performs, maybe the Weber will come sooner than later.
  5. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Thanks fellas, I will use the heat shield and use all 3 new gaskets. Seems odd to me that since all components being sealed (carb, spacer and heat shield) have 2 barrels seperated yet gaskets don’t keep this consistency. I will use divided gasket between carb and spacer as you mentioned mainer311.
  6. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Time to mount the Hitachi carb. Question on order of gaskets which came with the rebuild kit since only 1 of the 3 keep the 2 barrels separate. Should I use the heat shield (if that's what it is)? if so I would then require all 3 gaskets to sandwich with intake, heat shield, thick spacer and carb. This last picture shows carb, spacer and old gasket which i suppose I could use as well if I require a second gasket with divider between barrels.
  7. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Thanks Charlie69 for the link to vintage connections, like that option better than the squeeze on connections we went with from the new bulb socket tails to new wiring in harness.
  8. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Didn’t splice old connectors to new wiring. Cut tail light portion of old harness off then spliced, soldered and used heat shrink to replace old ratty wiring with new wiring. Used small pieces of the old harness as a short term labeling method to keep track of new wiring until they were connected to proper bulb.
  9. sondat

    new member, first post.

    A while back we ordered new tail lights off of e-bay, TS Motor brand from China, what crap. The lenses are a cheap plastic that is so brittle they were broken on arrival and check out the bulb shield/dividers made out of aluminum cans. So we did use the housings with new sockets but cleaned up and salvaged the original lenses with bulb dividers. Also had to re build the tail light harness by cutting old wiring and connectors off that ran across back of truck (tail light to tail light) and splice in new leads and connectors. Only had white and black wiring so we tapped a small piece of the old colour coded wiring to the new ends to keep track for proper connections to original harness. Got third and final harness into truck and tail lights all connected with new rear valance installed.
  10. Welcome Dave, it’s nice to see more of these trucks being rescued. Will keep an eye out to see your ride.
  11. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Last question for the evening, promise. The pushrod that runs horizontally under the electric choke, is it just a damper?
  12. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Any thoughts on my last post about the choke heater relay that is shown in the 620 schematic. Would it be required to incorporate into my 521 harness since were adding the electric choke or is just the switched power source fine? This plate is positioned between carb and manifold, am I right in thinking it is a heat shield? should we re install or did it go hand in hand with all the emissions crap we removed?
  13. sondat

    Just bought a 521

    What about the frost plugs? There is one between engine and transmission, could it be leaking?
  14. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Have done some more reading about wring up the electric choke and idle cut solenoid to our original 521 harness. So I understand they need a switched 12 volt source, also read it should be fused. I’ll trace out on the schematic but believe there’s a couple fused/switched circuits to tap into. So I could tap just one lead into the fused/switched circuit, run to the carb and tie to both choke and solenoid leads? I see a choke heater relay on the 620 wiring schematics, is this not required with the electric choked hitachi carb?
  15. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Hey greenthumb, there is the flat stamped areas for the shoulder belt attachment but no existing captive nuts, so our 521 sounds the same as yours was.
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