Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


sondat last won the day on October 13 2018

sondat had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

188 Excellent

About sondat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    British Columbia, Canada
  • Cars
  • Interests
    521 restore with my son

Recent Profile Visitors

1,244 profile views
  1. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Hey greenthumb, there is the flat stamped areas for the shoulder belt attachment but no existing captive nuts, so our 521 sounds the same as yours was.
  2. sondat

    new member, first post.

    datzenmike that last entry of yours is damn near a poem, take you long to come up with that? Lol. Very true, I was on a work trip last week, rented a car not knowing what it would be till pickup time. 2019 Nissan non the less, it was a Qashqai and like you said about the new cars, it flashes lights in the cabin when someone’s pulling up beside you and beeps at you if you wander over a road line. This next generation wont have the ability to actually drive a car, the car does it for you. God I’m sounding old.
  3. sondat

    new member, first post.

    I definatley think the full frame is a benefit and these trucks are cool just at cruising speed, well also add shoulder belts to the equation. My son is defiantly into his studies with exams right now d.p. so he hasn’t had as much time on the truck lately but as mentioned before he has put a lot of hours in over the last 2.5 years. I’m pressing on cause I can’t wait for us to hit the road this summer. Read most of your build thread mainer311, impressive, truck looks great. Found the talk about the idle cut solenoid, still need to dive into DanielC’s thread. Clear on doing away with both emissions relays, think I’ll start laying harness in, get carb bolted on and then do some more research and head scratching.
  4. sondat

    new member, first post.

    All great info Mike, Mike and Mainer311. I will look at bridging under the fuse block, excellent thinking. Last night with harness still laid out on the basement floor I traced/toned out all unknown leads (to me) temporarily labelling, including both relays. The drivers side relay makes sense it is for dual points, it has 1 lead to distributor, 1 to coil and the third goes to pig tail at mid fire wall right beside lead for engine bay light switch. That lead must tie to the unknown relay passenger side because it has 2 leads to mid fire wall also beside engine bay light switch. Passenger side relay has a third lead to multi connector that connects to harness to back of truck, this one is confusing. What reference would emissions relays need to the rear of the truck? Probably the 3rd gear coasting you mentioned Mike K. So we are learning a lot, a little out of our element with vehicle wiring and components but getting there. The switched power you mentioned datzenmike, it would need to feed both electric choke and idle cut solenoid? I’m assuming when turning key on ignition there’s the accessories on position before cranking starter and it would be this first accessories on position that I need to feed to choke and idle cut solenoid?
  5. sondat

    Floor repair

    Metal work looks great, seems like a distant memory for us.
  6. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Ya so not sure what the 3rd relay passenger side would be for
  7. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Ok the relay above coil makes sense it’s for the points. We are changing to electronic distributor with remote matchbox (using 77 Camaro ICM) since we don’t have the remote matchbox. Will have to look up the wiring for the matchbox again, I know it’s on the forum. Will see if that relay is just deleted. As for the electric choke relay, I’ll have to look at the old carb to see if that’s what it had. I think the choke was manual though, I recall the manual nob pull in the cab. We had the hitachi off the L20b rebuilt, so if electric choke on that would the relay come into play then?
  8. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Question on the relays, there are 4 relays under the hood. The 3 on the passenger side front of truck to rear are Horn relay, light relay and I don't know what the third relay is for. It has 3 leads to it, a blue with red tracer and 2 light green leads. the 4th relay is on the drivers side and I'm unsure what this relay is for either. The schematic I printed off only shows the 2 relays (light and horn). I checked the wiring diagram in our Haynes manual and it shows a third relay labeled EI, unsure what that stands for and which one it is, drivers side or passenger.
  9. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Onto wiring, ugh. printed off the 9 pages of schematics that were posted on Ratsun, big help. The under dash harness is untouched and in decent shape, the engine bay harness was tampered with a little around the voltage regulator and some of the leads in and out of the fuse block were broken off. Dash harness Engine bay harness Toned out leads to fuse block, added new connectors. Fuse block isn't internally bridged where required so we will bridge externally on the source side of the block. Some of the loom between the voltage reg and the starter/alternator got quite hot at some point, the leads were melted together. Replaced leads with new wire and connectors. A little more taping the bundle once the harness is placed in.
  10. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Thanks datzenmike, I used the grease that was already on the slides, just spread around to ensure still lubed.
  11. sondat

    new member, first post.

    I reassemble the callipers after powder coating, I didn’t use any break fluid on the piston but did ensure there was lube on the slides. They seemed to move with a far squeeze by hand. I’ll look into that.
  12. sondat

    new member, first post.

    The hubs/rotors spin freely with the aluminum brackets on, its definitely the pads that are rubbing. And thanks for the link about the tension rods because I was wondering how much to squish the rubber bushings. The nuts tighten down pretty easy and I thought if I tightened to much once the truck is operating over bumps I could see them splitting.
  13. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Thanks for all the input fellas and I should have PM’d you originally Mike K. I believe the rotors are seated properly and that does make sense on the passenger rotor, must be slightly warped. As for the constant harder drag on the drivers side I will confirm proper seating of rotor and if still a problem will get a professional to look at it. It is my kids breaks after all.
  14. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Question for you Mike klotz. The passenger calliper has slight drag on the rotor to the outside stationary pad for only about 1/4 of the full rotation. Talking with a mechanic I know I was told this should be fine. The drivers side had heavier drag the whole rotation of the rotor, I could see this getting to hot. Possibly the thickness of the powder coating keeping the outer pad pushed towards rotor? I used 2 thin fender washers (1 per bolt) between calliper and aluminum calliper mounting bracket. This freed up rotor totally, no rubbing on either pad. Just wondering if this would cause any unforeseen issues. I will also mention to licensed shop when truck goes in.
  15. sondat

    new member, first post.

    Thanks Charlie69, definitely looking forward to seeing it on the road. That light at the end of the tunnel is getting bigger, just hope it’s not a train. Work left that we are tackling is all wiring, fuel system and glass/door mechanisms. Once that’s complete it will go to local shop for exhaust, an alignment and a one over to check our work. My son goes for his drivers license next Friday so the pressures on now.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.