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About emripires

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  1. Yeah, I should at least put and isolation in there. The lines can flex quite a bit, if my cab moves that much, I've got some problems. But I will run some soft isolation rubber.
  2. Yeah I am, all other tubing is no problem but the factory stuff just doesnt want to flare.
  3. Yeah 37 degree im using a rigid flaring tool, works good, but I have to figure something out because I am flaring the tube on the axle and it keeps cracking at the seam.
  4. So... It's been a while since I last posted. I've been busy though, I have some nice updates. So I got the engine all assembled, everything went nice and smooth. Valves did not interfere with the flat tops, and I did not unshroud the head to lower the CR. The cam is .535" lift, for anyone interested. I also refinished the wheels, I did Spanish gold Prismatic powder, with gold hardware, and I also reverse mounted the face. Also, while I had those powder coated, I had my tail light buckets done in a "chrome look" powder. Hard to see, but they look nice. If anyone noticed, my hood hinges weren't on the truck. I think at some point, the hood flipped up, and it damaged the sheet metal under the hinges, so I removed the hinges, fixed the sheet metal under, refinished the hinge holders and devised a way to hold it all together... Of course, there was some powdercoating involved.. more on this later, I'm having the grey plates powder coated as we speak. Front sway bar and pieces were done in nice black. Now for the good stuff! I redid all the brake lines on the truck in 3/16" stainless, with all -3AN stainless fittings. I removed the factory load sensing valve, installed a Wilwood proportioning valve for the rear channel, and made all kinds of nice brackets to match.. which are also going to be wrinkle black.. I don't have too many pictures of it.. I picked up a cool 3 gauge holder for my center console, and I also picked up 3 STACK brand gauges, which I don't have yet. I also wasn't too happy with how that block pcv connector went, it was a bit loose, so I just made my own Finally, after I was done the engine bay and what not, I reshot the black paint to my nose panel on the truck. Anyways, I have alot of parts coming in the mail. I hope to get the engine in the truck and the truck back on the ground by Easter....!!
  5. I'm actually trying to sell my setup right now.
  6. Quite impressive dedication and enthusiasm! Kudos to your relentless and ambitious progress too! 

  7. Thanks Eric! I am working on another big update, coming soon, hopefully this week!!
  8. You can run a BMW 5 or 6 speed ZF trans onto those K24 engine. It's a great engine.
  9. emripires


    This is sweet man
  10. Thanks I was actually looking into that ?
  11. Not rich. Probably should slow it down a bit with the spending lol. Do more assembly. I am going to get the Cr as low as I can with the flat tops.
  12. Since my last post... I finished painting the engine bay.. Used an acrylic enamel.. in the factory paint code. I use a 3m accuspray HVLP gun. Will be coating the frame soon! I am deleting the load sensing brake bias valve, so I figure it's best to redo the brake lines in the engine compartment, leading into the rear brakes.. Picked up a Rigid brand 3/16 bender, and an Eastwood brand tubing straightener! Truck was badly hail damaged at some point in it's life.. Thought I should get a new hood, but mine was nice. Tried PDR and it turned out amazing! before: After: That center console I scored from the local scrap yard.. was FILTHY!! I degreased it multiple times, and coated it with trim black paint.. Also picked up the missing piece from my console from Alain Montiel. As well as an OEM shifter rebuild setup. Kind of restored my heater box. Looks super nice now.. Engine block was also painted using POR15 rust paint, and POR15 engine enamel. Random pic of VC with spray bar. Few more parts.. Clutch/Flywheel setup Rear brake setup.. Izuzu rear with Beebani brackets.. Some balljoints for the Hardbody setup too.. Has anyone tried the energy tie rod boots? One more pic CCV fittings from Raceworks in Australia. Still haven't assembled the engine. I keep going back and fourth with the compression ratio. Been talking to a few guys now, I think it will work with the flat tops. =/
  13. emripires

    L20B rebuild

    Would 10.1:1 not be a good Cr to run 94 with tho
  14. emripires

    L20B rebuild

    Making a thread instead of messaging random people on their experiences. Kind of just thinking of things, need input.. L20B block U67 head open 86mm flat tops.... Standard rods L20B crank The way things are going together, it seems I will be running 10.6:1 CR. My local pumps run MAX 94 octane. I kind of want to run pump gas... What do you guys think, has anyone run a similar or identical setup? I am open to running domed 280zx turbo pistons, which will drop the CR quite a bit.
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