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About enbay1

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  • Location
    Arcata CA
  • Cars
    Blue 1985 Datsun 720 4x4 KC
  1. Thank you very much, looks like I'm not. DatzenMike, you're unimaginably valuable as a resource. Thank you.
  2. Hello, I was putting my speedometer cable back on my transfer case and have the feeling I'm missing an Oring. I'm looking for some confirmation. From inside out I have Pinion gear assembly pinion gear assembly oring lock-plate speedometer top hat seal speedometer cable housing screw-on-ring Is there an oring that's supposed to go on the speedometer housing lock-ring/thread-on end somewhere? Than y'all in advance.
  3. Hey All, I've got a 1985 720 4x4 KC ST z24 MT with an OEM carb on it. I hooked up all the emissions lines as the book dictates, and it runs great, but on the left side of the carb there are two ports that are capped off and I don't see anywhere for them to go. If you happen to know where they're supposed to route to I'd love to hear it. Cheers!
  4. Now if I can fix my throttle issue I can actually drive the silly thing.
  5. So, I took the throttle cable off and it seemed to fix the problem. Today I went out to put the throttle cable back on after doing my choke adjustment and found that the throttle linkage needed to be pushed down like before to achieve low idle. So now I've got the same problem, but it doesn't make a stuck noise when it frees and is also a lot easier to free after pushing it down.
  6. I took out the two rivets and the phillips screw on the bottom, filed off the tab, and adjusted the choke. The inside of the spring housing was filled with what I can only describe as carbon deposits. Black, crusty, horrible stuff. I had previously cleaned and lubed everything THOROUGHLY. Based on one start-warmup cycle I can say the choke works now!
  7. What's the best procedure for drilling out, filing off, and adjusting without having spring-a-ma-things go places I don't want them to? I think this is my only option.
  8. Mine has the rivets. How possible is it to do this on the truck? Is there any merit to my spring hypothesis? It seems like if the little rotary spring on the shaft with the fast idle cam pressed up harder it would lift the choke into position.
  9. Yes, the idle screw is all the way out. Long story short, the guy who abused the truck before me though drilling out the A/F idle mix screw was a good idea. So when I got it it wouldn't idle. I've spent a long time messing with the mix, a vacuum gauge, my ears, the idle screw, and finally made it start, idle, idle down, and run well. But it was still idling high, so I worked my way to the throttle. Once I pressed that down I got it to idle at 850 or so, which is perfect for the smog test. So if you've got any ideas about how to make this thing work optimally using those things I'd love to
  10. Hello, I've got an issue causing hard cold starts. I don't think my choke is engaging all the way. If I manually choke it while starting it (using two people, or a stick, or something) it always starts right up. The fast idle cam works, but maybe the spring on the fast idle cam doesn't seem strong enough to move the choke back up after sitting for a while. The choke does disengage all the way after warming up. Here's a video of the choke going from open to closed when the throttle is goosed, and what the free-play looks like. As always, thank you for your time. Video.
  11. I've got no kinks, bends, or damage, and the cable is adjusted all the way toward the carb. Where else can I look to get that tiny amount of slack I need?
  12. Good news! When I take off the throttle cable it does idle fantastically. It starts up, idles at 1200, then drops down to 850 or so. However, I don't know how to adjust the cable so that it does not pull the throttle linkage. Throttle adjustment nuts Pedal There is free-play in the pedal, though from the picture it doesn't appear so.
  13. Hello, I'm trying to get my truck to idle sub 1000 to get it smogged. The truck idles at 1100 when the linkage sticks, and about 850 when I push the linkage down. 850 is perfect, and I'm wondering where my linkage could be sticking up. When I goose the throttle after pushing the linkage down it makes a metallic click/ping/spring noise. Here's a video. Thank you for your time and knowledge!
  14. I'm currently waiting on a fitting to bypass the clutch damper as I expect that's where my air is and I was mostly looking for an excuse to get rid of it. If you can tell me what to take pictures of I'd be more than happy to supply you with them. I pressed the bearing into the carrier myself. Spring goes on plunger, plunger goes into bore. I'd be surprised if I could mess that up. There's a chance my pedal is still not right, but based on my fooling around down there with the manual I could not get it into spec (see previous post.)
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