PercyTheAce

with the blower on, headlights running and stereo going im still at 14.5 at idle. I unfortunately don’t have a volt gauge installed so it’s hard to say when it’s driving around. But I kicked the engine up to 2.5k rpms while parked and the voltage barely moved I was just taking a quick look at the wiring diagram and I think I figured out my problem. Off of the stock radio plug im running both the ground and the power for the stereo. Then I’m running the accessory wire straight to the battery. I’m thinking if I swap the power for the stereo to go straight to the battery and then plug the accessory wire into the stock radio plug that should fix the issue right?

At idle I’m running 14.5 volts, with the car off it’s 13ish. I’ve got a deep cycle optima yellow top since the car tends to sit for long periods of time. The odd part is I don’t experience this issue as bad at idle as I do when I’m driving around.

Thanks for the advice, I’ll have to test that out this weekend when I’ve got time to work on it again

The head unit currently powers the door speakers, but even the subs in the back which are powered by an amp drop in power just like the door speakers. Both the power and ground wire for the amp are 8 gauge wire

So I installed a sound system back in the fall and was having issues with the cars alternator trying to keep up with it, especially if the headlights were on along with the heater going. The heater being the main power killer. When I installed the sound system I only used the power and ground from the stock harness to power the head unit, from there the entire sound system is wired independently. so I just put a 90 amp ka24 alternator on my a14. Bolted up fairly easily, really plug and play. I thought not having enough amperage was my issue but no, I play the music at decent listening volume, then I turn on the heater and hear my system drop in volume. anybody have any idea why this is happening? car for reference is a 1980 210 with an a14

Thanks for all the info 🙂 I’m gonna get the parts on order here soon and hopefully have it wrapped up in the next couple weeks.

So I’ve got a 76 b210 with a 4 speed in it. I’ve got to replace the clutch and I’m finding two different clutch kits, one for an 18 spline input shaft and one for a 24 spline input shaft. Is there any way to tell which one I have before I tear the tranny out of the car? All I’ve been able to find info wise is that it seems that it’s either a 60a series or 60L series transmission but I can’t find spline counts for either.

If anybody wants a cheap “Dutson” there’s a ‘75 b210 in Bothell supposedly runs and drives https://offerup.co/knh6FoF6Y7

So I recently picked up a b210 that has an a14 with a gtx head on it and manifolds off of a 310 I think. Currently all the manifold and head gaskets look like they’re just the make a gasket goop stuff. Does anybody know if the head gasket set is going to be the same as the original a14 set up that came in the car? I’ll upload pictures of it later

Yep, that was us. We had to dip out early on Sunday unfortunately, we had a family thing in woodland we needed to get to

This is pretty true, my friend Collin and I were the only high school kids that I saw there

I’m coming from Marysville, which is about an hour north of seattle

I have the Haynes manual too, and if the kit says what all I need to do then that’ll help a lot. It’s supposed to arrive Wednesday so I’ll let everyone know how it goes then

So theres no egr valve or anything anymore? And what did you do about the vent tubes that go from the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold?

Hey all, I’ve got a 1980 b310 with an a14. My stock carb took a dump on me and I was gonna upgrade to the weber 32/36. What all has to be disabled/come off that may have been attached to the stock carb?