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About BestyBlue77

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/24/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sacramento, CA
  • Cars
    1977 B210 2dr Sedan (4-speed), 1977 B210 Coupe (auto)
  • Interests
    Working on Betsy, skateboarding, rollerskating, playing music, art, woodworking, metalwork.
  • Occupation

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  1. My daily driver almost never reads full even when it's spilling over the top. Lol. Oops! BUT like you guy mentioned I've never once run it out of gas in 20 years of owning. Haha. That's a win in my book. Yeah, I'm going to clean it up and try to at least swap the float for a new one.The electrics look okay. We'll see. Thanks for the info guys! That's just whay I was hoping for.
  2. My fuel tank sending unit in my 1977 B210 Coupe is toast. I can't seem to locate another one. Can that sending unit be swapped out from another model of Datsun? I've seen some sending units on eBay for z-cars. Would one of those work? Please help!
  3. BestyBlue77

    Dash Restoration

    Anyone that doesn't have a dash pad cover on their Dash is ridiculous. Because those things are guaranteed to crack! You are very wise person!! ?
  4. Time Left: 5 days and 16 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Hey guys! I need a fuel tank sending unit for my 1977 Datsun B210 Coupe STAT! Mine is toast as you can see by the pic. The tank is short and flat. Fits under the car below the hatch. Does anyone have one or know if one from another Datsun model would work? Thanks!


    Sacramento, California

  5. I know this is an old thread, but why do you suggest the distilled water treatment if he's already taken the radiator to the shop and had it cleaned. Wouldn't it be easier to just flush out the engine? That's what I did by putting a lil heat on the lower engine flush bolt to remove it, and completely draining it all out and then running the hose til it all drains out. After that I blew compressed air to push out any remaining water. I'm wondering because running the engine at all with only water in it is not a good idea, especially for someone who has just overheated the engine to the point of blowing the gasket.
  6. No, never been bored out. It's all original. They all are. The cylinders are all in amazing shape luckily.
  7. It looks uncoated on the other side, so I'm definitely grabbing a bottle of the copper spray. It has great reviews all around as well. I'm going to see what the dealership offers, and who knows theirs may include the o-ring. I do wonder about that o-ring though, where exactly should it be installed, and if it is installed, wouldn't that block the flow of oil coming up from below? Hmm?
  8. Cool! Thanks guys!! This is really helpful. I never thought to try to dealership for a head gasket. They have a very limited selection of items available for my car, and usually when I do call them for something 8 out of 10 times they don't have it. But I'll call them up just to check. I usually go with the Fel-Pro simply because they include ALL the gaskets I need for the restore, and I don't have to hunt and peck around trying to find everything I need. Also, they have excellent customer service, and you can call them up and ask a tech questions on any of their products which is rare these days. I've already got 2 head sets around now I'd like to use first. They are both Fel-Pro. One is a brand new modern style set, and the other is NOS with paperwork dated 1979. It's definitely old school, and the head gasket is printed like Mike mentioned above. Just got it in the mail yesterday.
  9. I grabbed some pics from RockAuto because they had the biggest selection of head gaskets to choose from for my engine. I compared the gasket holes near the oiler bolt and found three different patterns. A few had 2 large holes and one small hole. One of them had 1 medium, 1 large, and 1 small hole. Another had 1 large hole and 1 small hole. The last being the one that would be the perfect match for my engine. Not sure that even matters, but an extra large hole cut very near the leaky area with an uncoated gasket might just be the problem. Or just the fact that the gaskets were uncoated may be the issue OR it could be the missing o-ring. However, if you look closely at the first pic you will see what I believe is this notorious red o-ring in the Beck/Arnley Head Set #0321463 which is the "recommended" set for my ride. Some of the head gaskets appear to be coated and some don't. Which of these gaskets would you guys recommend as the best to choose for my situation if I didn't use the copper spray you guys mentioned? And I have never heard of this spray copper coating. What brand or where could I purchase said coating? Thanks!!!
  10. Here's #3, my current project. All the tell tale signs are there. Oil leak starts at oiler bolt, the damn things keep running for years sometimes if you keep feeding it oil, and if not repaired the gasket fails to keep coolant where it belongs, then the overheating begins, etc, and POW bent rod. Ugh.
  11. Here's the gasket. Nothing special around the oiler bolt on the Fel-Pro brand. I'll check pics of other brands available as well.
  12. This is head #3 (that I'm currently working on) being restored:
  13. This is what the head looked like 2 years ago when I first put her it. Brand spanking new! Here's head #2 being refreshed: And a bottom pic for reference:
  14. Hey Kelmo! What's up?! I originally noticed a small oil leak right in the middle under the head at the oiler bolt area where head and block meet. At first I wasn't sure where the leak was coming from. And it was coming from more than one place. The oil filler cap cork gasket was shot on my old cap. Thanks for giving me back that other one. That solved one problem. The more I drove it the more oil it was using, and I thought maybe my mechanic screwed up when he replaced the rear main oil seal about a year ago. But now I think it's just been the head gasket since then. Anyway, it doesn't "overheat" according to my gauges but it's been giving off a lot of heat that I can feel coming up from underneath while driving. It's been using tons of oil, and know I know where from, just not sure why that keeps happening.
  15. Hey Mike! Yes, I did the straight edge with feeler gauge, and everything was perfect. Also, yes there is an oiler head bolt and it is in that area on the side of the head where the leak always starts. The head bolt torque spec is 51-54 ft. lbs. I have a old school torque wrench, so I was right in the middle of that, and I retorqued after 600 miles. It's not the valve gasket. Everything is clean & shiny above the block. It's right under where the two meet that it's leaking just on the side where the oiler head bolt is. Let me snap a few pics to see what might be happening. On a side note another Ratsun guy Noramost was a Datsun mechanic for over 25 years and mentioned that that oiler bolt should have had a red washer/o-ring that would have fit into that head bolt hole. I asked at the dealership when I ordered new head bolts, but he said he couldn't find anything on it. Hmm? Not sure on that one. This is the most concentrated area of the leak. Just next to the outer oil plug:
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