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Posts posted by 510Goonies

  1. The reason I ask is because most of the stuff on ebay you can still get from the nissan for a whole lot less money. I noticed that sellers on ebay cover the part number on the packaging because they are buying from nissan and reselling for more. I don't have a problem with that but if I know I can still get it, I rather pay less. :) It's just a matter of finding out part numbers



    This pic looks to show a different part number than listed above. 8084??-?????



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  2. Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse over the head, but will a 14 x 6.5 width +6 offset tuck under stock 510 fenders without rolling or cutting? Car will be lowered, but not slammed.


    Currently using stock front 510 struts but will like to run 280zx front struts in the future so I would like to plan ahead and see if they would fit with either strut setup.

  3. Pretty much stole this off CL. Dude didn't really know what is was for but I recognized the intake manifold layout and knew it was for an L series four banger Datto so i went and grabbed it. It's a Weber 40 dcoe 149 5C with a lynx cross flow manifold. My question is anyone running one of these on an L16? Researched a little bit and seems like a love it or hate it type of deal but then again i don't know if a lynx crossflow as used or if that even matters in tune-ablity as it was supposed to help correct the leaning out of #1 and #4 cylinders. Still researching around for jetting numbers n such, so don't go to hard on me. Any pointers would be welcome. My L16 is stock with an A87 head and electronic ignition.



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  4. I used two 5/8" rubber plugs on the "in" and "out" ports that are on the block. the gauge went down a tad but not much. going to try a aftermarket temp gauge.


    i know the thermostat is opening and closing because the upper hose gets hot and cools down a little before getting hot again. i have a lead on a new heater as well so if i get it i will be throwing that in as well.



  5. Never loop the heater hoese like that. You are feeding hot water from the head right back into the engine. Normally it is cooled by the heater. You are circulating hot water without the benefit of the rad to cool it. Cut the hose and plug both ends or what ever is needed to shut off coolant flow. This will fix your problem.

    I'm going to be doing this next, you're probably right! The hose I have connecting the two is the hottest thing(next to the engine) that I've touched.

  6. Nope, doesn't have an original fuse box. There's spaghetti (wire) everywhere that I need to clean up and tidy. Dug around and found my cheap little thermal temp gauge highest I got moving it around was 174. I am planing on fixing the heater, just fixing other things that needed attention so it will be going back in, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

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