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Mysta2

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Posts posted by Mysta2


  1. Anyone have a source for a replacement pump? I'd be happy to swap in a new one, but I don't want an aftermarket one.

     

    What I think is the accel pump on the side is not connected to the linkage at all. I still couldn't get it to squirt anything pumping it by hand though.

     

    The passenger side barrel does seem to be the primary.


  2. On 7/18/2019 at 6:14 AM, banzai510(hainz) said:

    oh I don't see gas being squirted in.Either the pump isn't pumping fuel to the carb or the needle valve in carb isn't letting gas in the bowl. or the accel pump diaprame is bad.  A diaphrame bad most lilkely will leak on the side of of the square looking fiting which pushes it in. It will have 4 screws.

    I'll take a look into this as soon as I have some time with it. Thanks for the info.

     

    also. you hit the carb so fast the main barrel should be on the valve cover side. that where the squirt will come from.. Unless this is a different carb carb where the main barrel is on the driver side. Usually for the French cars that I have seen. Not that it matters

    I'll look into this and see if I can see which is opening first, this is the engine setup that I bought the truck with. I don't know much about it.

     

    PS that fuel pumps sound like shit. They shouldn't be that loud I would think

    I have no idea what it's supposed to sound like, the flow seems constant and dependable, but I don't have anything to compare it to. I did remove the cap from it and make sure that it all looked clean and intact at one point. It sounds like most people are unfamiliar with the stock electric fuel pump on this truck. Have you heard examples of this pump that sounded different? Or are you just guessing?

    Thanks for the advice.


  3. In the carb on my '62 Ranchero the accelerator pump squirt was above the  plainly visible with the filter off.

     

    In this carb, I cannot see it. should I be able to? Can you see the last video that I posted? I'm assuming that it would squirt out of the bottom of those two rings in there.

     

    I know that pulling the choke lever closes the choke. But you made it sound as if the "choke flap" would close after the first accelerator pump. Or did you simply mean that I needed to close the choke (manually) after pumping to increase the chance of a successful start?


  4. There are two filters in line. That one and another in the engine bay. That photo's a year old and I'm not sure that's the filter that's still on it as I have changed them both. I may go ahead and swap them both again for the hell of it though on the chance that it might help. That 90 degree one was a pain to find.


  5. Carb does not seem to be dripping after 5 seconds of cranking.

     

    I had my son try and start it from inside the truck and I confirmed spark at the center dist wire.

     

    In the original post I stated that it was running a week before the post. I’m not sure what you’re asking when you ask if I’ve ever had it running. That being said though I have never had it running with any consistency or driven it more than up and down the street, so if you mean that then no.

     

    update: I got it running and although it smoked a lot, it did idle alright for 5-10 minutes before it started to run a bit rough and then I shut it off.


  6. I have a '79 620 truck that I can't get started. L20B (I assume) with an edlebrock intake and a Webber carb (all installed by the PO)

    yYATliuaTxvADVWFN19bZNKFrv4uz5wBJ5q2ZYB8

     

    It started a week or so ago in the middle of the night in the garage and ran for a while. This was a test after fixing some of the ignition switch wiring. Now, without any changes it will not start.

     

    I can switch the ignition on, and can hear the fuel pump running. It cranks nice and strong but doesn't even try to start. Spraying starting fluid in the carb does nothing (usually it helps with a hard start after a long sit) So this suggests to my mind that the issue is electrical rather than fuel.

     

    I'm on my own in the garage so I don't have anyone to test things in the engine bay as I crank it.

     

    I did notice that the distributer was loose so I placed it in generally the middle of the slot and tightened it down a bit.

     

    New development as of last night: I pulled the plugs and found them to be very black and wet. I cleaned them all and put them back in and it seems to have tried to start. It shook a lot but didn't catch. Then after that first burst, it was back to cranking with no effort to start. I went down to Oreilieys and bought new plugs, put them in and same thing: one shaky almost start, followed by cranking but nothing.

     

    Is there a location to best set the distributer to get the thing running in order to set it?

     

    Other ideas on next steps?


  7. - Hmm. That does seem to be how mine works... bonus wire for extra credit? -

     

    Thinking about this a little more:

     

    The switch needs to have 4 wires:

     

    ACC= Lights, radio, gauge cluster?, fuel sender?

    OFF= nothing

    RUN= Lights, radio, gauge cluster, fuel sender, fuel pump, Coil

    START= Lights, radio, gauge cluster, fuel sender, Coil, starter

     

    So the ACC needs to be on it's own wire (the largest circuit with everything short of running the engine)

    RUN wire (Black w/white) could just be the fuel pump and coil.

    Start wire (black w/yellow) would have to be just the starter.

    Hot wire would have to be there to power all of this.

     

    ...so the blue must be the ACC circuit.

     

    I welcome any corrections to my conclusions.

     

    So what is powered in these trucks with the switch turned to ACC? Does the fuel guage come on in the ACC position? Does the cluster light up? My wiring is a mess and I can't be sure anything is connected to the blue wire at the moment. As already noted, it doesn't spark at all so it seems that it may not be connected to anything.

    • Like 1

  8. The socket that connects to the rear of the ignition switch in my truck has 4 wires (it's a 6 socket plug and the switch has 5 leads, but there are only 4 wires)

     

    I'm not sure what they all are and I can't find a wiring diagram that matches much of what I see under the hood of the actual truck.

     

    Confirmed are the following:

    1. white (heavy gauge) - Battery positive.

    2. Black w/yellow - Starter motor

    3. Black w/white - Fuel pump

    4. Blue - Unknown

     

    #3 runs the fuel pump, but is this just switched power? Does it run everything?

    What is #4 supposed to do? If #3 is just the fuel pump then #4 must be the rest of the switched power circuit. I don't get any spark at all to indicate a closing circuit when I touch the battery positive to it (white).

     

    Thanks

    Kit

    • Like 1

  9. They shouldn't go in easy.  If they do, the cup may have been spinning in the yolk, which is BAD.  I had to have 2 yolks replaced when I set up a driveshaft for the Bonneville truck.  Plain worn out.  

     

    I see why the cups would need to be tight in the bores. Is that what you are referring to when you say "they shouldn't go in easy"

     

    Or do you mean the C rings should not go in easy? this seems less critical.


  10. Did you accidentally drop a needle bearing into the cup?...

     

    That's a good question. I checked them before sliding them on. But that possibility hadn't occurred to me. I will double check.

     

    Nissan also sells about 8 select fit C clips in varying thickness. This is for helping balance the shaft but could be used if the U joint is cheap or out of spec.

     

    I thought I bought good ones (Beck/Arnley) But I'm hardly an expert on bearing brands.


  11. I pulled my Center bearing and swapped it out, and figured I would put new U joints in while the shafts were out. But the yokes of the shafts seem too tight. The first one (front) wasn't too bad. For the middle one I was able to get three of the C clips in but even with a C clamp on it as tight as I can get it I can only clear about half the thickness of the C clip so I can't get the last clip in.

     

    Even if I was able to pound the C clip into the groove I feel that this would be causing excessive drag on the (head?) of the bearing. I already feel like the front one is too tight but I did get the last clip tapped in.

     

    Should these clips be hard to get in? Obviously there needs to be no slop axially so the rollers need to be tight on the U joint axles, but it does not seem that the tightness of the C clips would be critical.

     

    Do I just need to find slightly thinner C clips?


  12. Dredging up an old topic for a new question. I'm replacing this carrier bearing now and I would like to know how to torque the big nut holding the bearing in place. It has a notch in it to keep the nut from backing out which usually suggests that it's not supposed to be all that tight. Earlier in this thread someone said that it requires 140 which I can't seem to do without the thing spinning. I have an impact gun and can spin it on nice and tight but the bearing gets really tight when I do.


  13. The caliper fits fine in the wheel its the spindle that it nearly rubs. I may grind on the spindle a little just to make myself feel better. That caliper shouldn't move more than an eighth of an inch and not in a direction that would impact the spindle, but I don't know how much, if any, those assemblies flex under load.


  14. Aren't they all 6 on 5.5?

    The wheels are, but on the other side of the hubs is the bolt circle for the brake disk, which is 6x103 for the 2WD and 6x124 for the 4WD (4WD is bigger since the drive hub in the middle is bigger)

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