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Mysta2

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Everything posted by Mysta2

  1. This advert is COMPLETED!

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    1979 was the last year for these classic trucks and this one was optioned to the gills, meaning it had a/c (which it no longer has), an electric fuel pump, and seatbelts (very posh).I can't say that it's rust free, but it's solid with just some body rust and a couple of extra "drain holes" in the bed.To make it stop better and look cooler, I put a set of hardbody dual piston calipers with slotted rotors stainless brake lines, and 2" Belltech drop spindles on it. I had to cut down the center steering link and re thread it to fit the new spindles. The front suspension is a torsion bar setup so you can easily change the height of the front just by cranking down or backing off a bolt on the end of that bar, I've lowered it quite a bit, but it's just a pair of wrenches away from being whatever height you prefer. The back is currently on the original springs and at stock height which gives it an aggressive rake. I have a set of (hard to find) second gen 4WD leafs that should drop the rear 2" if installed. Those would come with the truck, and should bolt in but you will need a set of slightly longer U bolts since the 4x4 leaf stack is thicker than the original, this is what stopped me from bolting them in myself.Via a Japanese auction website I imported a set of deep "Nismo" (they had Nismo stickers on them, I don't think they're really Nismo) one piece five spoke alloys, cheesy fender mirrors, and a smaller diameter steering wheel. The steering wheel looks good, but is a bit of a PITA at low speeds, but was necessary for fitting the lower half of my 6'1" frame into the cab.With the goal of cleaning up the engine bay, shaving a little weight, and tossing out the rotted battery tray I relocated a new lightweight Miata style battery to a Pelican case bolted into the bed.With grand plans to install bucket seats and a hydraulic parking brake I removed the seized under dash one. As of now though, the bench is still there and it has no parking brake. It's parked by leaving it in gear, I wouldn't recommend parking it on a hill.A previous owner installed an Edelbrock intake (good luck finding another one of those today) and a Weber 32/36 carburetor.It runs and drives, but I haven't driven it more than around the neighborhood as it's registration has expired. It smokes a bit like it's running too rich, and it needs a lot of tuning to run with any dependability. The muffler's jammed onto the downpipe, but otherwise, just sitting there. I don't know how many miles it would take to shake that thing off, but probably not many. It starts well when warmed up, but the accelerator pump is not hooked up so when it's cold it needs a squirt of starter fluid to get it going.Spares would include the 4WD springs previously mentioned, a spare valve cover (with "Datsun" cast into it instead of the current "Nissan" valve cover) A handful of suspension bushings. Original bumper.I've dug through the wiring enough to get it up and running, but incidental stuff like idiot lights and gauges may not work dependably. The wiring could use a workover but everything important seems to work.I have the Washington state title in hand and ready to sign over to the new owner. This was copied from my Craigslist posting which has quite a few more photos: https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/d/kent-1979-datsun-620-bulletside-regular/7032055091.html. Feel free to jump over there for the rest of the 24 photos. I've enabled email contacts as I will try, but may not respond as immediately to PMs. Thanks Kit

    $3,000.00

    East of Seattle, Washington - US

  2. Anyone have a source for a replacement pump? I'd be happy to swap in a new one, but I don't want an aftermarket one. What I think is the accel pump on the side is not connected to the linkage at all. I still couldn't get it to squirt anything pumping it by hand though. The passenger side barrel does seem to be the primary.
  3. Thanks for the advice.
  4. Has anyone been able to view any of the videos?
  5. In the carb on my '62 Ranchero the accelerator pump squirt was above the plainly visible with the filter off. In this carb, I cannot see it. should I be able to? Can you see the last video that I posted? I'm assuming that it would squirt out of the bottom of those two rings in there. I know that pulling the choke lever closes the choke. But you made it sound as if the "choke flap" would close after the first accelerator pump. Or did you simply mean that I needed to close the choke (manually) after pumping to increase the chance of a successful start?
  6. What would cause the choke flap to close? The choke is setup currently as manual. Would the accelerator pump only spray fuel with the electric pump running? Or should it do it all the time? I can't see any spray in either condition: Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YihNz24xb5BqrLJq6 Are these video links working? I put them into a shared Google album.
  7. Update: She's a runner now... I didn't really do anything to address this actual problem short of just kind of "working through it". Starts on starter fluid now, and idles well (as far as I can tell) but it does smoke a hell of a lot. Video (if this works) Try this video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/RScpBSj9uF7CP9UZA
  8. There are two filters in line. That one and another in the engine bay. That photo's a year old and I'm not sure that's the filter that's still on it as I have changed them both. I may go ahead and swap them both again for the hell of it though on the chance that it might help. That 90 degree one was a pain to find.
  9. Yeah, I'm fairly certain it's original: (maybe more like a can of RedBull) I've broken it down a bit (long time ago) to make sure it's clean inside and it seems to work well.
  10. Not that I can think of at the moment. The fuel pump is original as far as I can tell, sure looks it at least.
  11. Carb does not seem to be dripping after 5 seconds of cranking. I had my son try and start it from inside the truck and I confirmed spark at the center dist wire. In the original post I stated that it was running a week before the post. I’m not sure what you’re asking when you ask if I’ve ever had it running. That being said though I have never had it running with any consistency or driven it more than up and down the street, so if you mean that then no. update: I got it running and although it smoked a lot, it did idle alright for 5-10 minutes before it started to run a bit rough and then I shut it off.
  12. I have a '79 620 truck that I can't get started. L20B (I assume) with an edlebrock intake and a Webber carb (all installed by the PO) It started a week or so ago in the middle of the night in the garage and ran for a while. This was a test after fixing some of the ignition switch wiring. Now, without any changes it will not start. I can switch the ignition on, and can hear the fuel pump running. It cranks nice and strong but doesn't even try to start. Spraying starting fluid in the carb does nothing (usually it helps with a hard start after a long sit) So this suggests to my mind that the issue is electrical rather than fuel. I'm on my own in the garage so I don't have anyone to test things in the engine bay as I crank it. I did notice that the distributer was loose so I placed it in generally the middle of the slot and tightened it down a bit. New development as of last night: I pulled the plugs and found them to be very black and wet. I cleaned them all and put them back in and it seems to have tried to start. It shook a lot but didn't catch. Then after that first burst, it was back to cranking with no effort to start. I went down to Oreilieys and bought new plugs, put them in and same thing: one shaky almost start, followed by cranking but nothing. Is there a location to best set the distributer to get the thing running in order to set it? Other ideas on next steps?
  13. - Hmm. That does seem to be how mine works... bonus wire for extra credit? - Thinking about this a little more: The switch needs to have 4 wires: ACC= Lights, radio, gauge cluster?, fuel sender? OFF= nothing RUN= Lights, radio, gauge cluster, fuel sender, fuel pump, Coil START= Lights, radio, gauge cluster, fuel sender, Coil, starter So the ACC needs to be on it's own wire (the largest circuit with everything short of running the engine) RUN wire (Black w/white) could just be the fuel pump and coil. Start wire (black w/yellow) would have to be just the starter. Hot wire would have to be there to power all of this. ...so the blue must be the ACC circuit. I welcome any corrections to my conclusions. So what is powered in these trucks with the switch turned to ACC? Does the fuel guage come on in the ACC position? Does the cluster light up? My wiring is a mess and I can't be sure anything is connected to the blue wire at the moment. As already noted, it doesn't spark at all so it seems that it may not be connected to anything.
  14. I don't know if this will work from Google photos, but:
  15. The socket that connects to the rear of the ignition switch in my truck has 4 wires (it's a 6 socket plug and the switch has 5 leads, but there are only 4 wires) I'm not sure what they all are and I can't find a wiring diagram that matches much of what I see under the hood of the actual truck. Confirmed are the following: 1. white (heavy gauge) - Battery positive. 2. Black w/yellow - Starter motor 3. Black w/white - Fuel pump 4. Blue - Unknown #3 runs the fuel pump, but is this just switched power? Does it run everything? What is #4 supposed to do? If #3 is just the fuel pump then #4 must be the rest of the switched power circuit. I don't get any spark at all to indicate a closing circuit when I touch the battery positive to it (white). Thanks Kit
  16. Mysta2

    New 620 owner :)

    Truck is looking better and better. Nice work. How long ago did you fix the dash cracks? How's it holding up?
  17. On the nose. Fixed now, thanks.
  18. I see why the cups would need to be tight in the bores. Is that what you are referring to when you say "they shouldn't go in easy" Or do you mean the C rings should not go in easy? this seems less critical.
  19. That's a good question. I checked them before sliding them on. But that possibility hadn't occurred to me. I will double check. I thought I bought good ones (Beck/Arnley) But I'm hardly an expert on bearing brands.
  20. I pulled my Center bearing and swapped it out, and figured I would put new U joints in while the shafts were out. But the yokes of the shafts seem too tight. The first one (front) wasn't too bad. For the middle one I was able to get three of the C clips in but even with a C clamp on it as tight as I can get it I can only clear about half the thickness of the C clip so I can't get the last clip in. Even if I was able to pound the C clip into the groove I feel that this would be causing excessive drag on the (head?) of the bearing. I already feel like the front one is too tight but I did get the last clip tapped in. Should these clips be hard to get in? Obviously there needs to be no slop axially so the rollers need to be tight on the U joint axles, but it does not seem that the tightness of the C clips would be critical. Do I just need to find slightly thinner C clips?
  21. So according to David Murphys site the torque spec for the bolt is 108-145 ft-lb. I guess Ill be looking for a set of torque limiters for my wrench.
  22. Dredging up an old topic for a new question. I'm replacing this carrier bearing now and I would like to know how to torque the big nut holding the bearing in place. It has a notch in it to keep the nut from backing out which usually suggests that it's not supposed to be all that tight. Earlier in this thread someone said that it requires 140 which I can't seem to do without the thing spinning. I have an impact gun and can spin it on nice and tight but the bearing gets really tight when I do.
  23. Mysta2

    Little Caesar

    Where do you find a roll bar like that? Or do I need to make it? I like it a lot.
  24. Mysta2

    Front suspension help

    The caliper fits fine in the wheel its the spindle that it nearly rubs. I may grind on the spindle a little just to make myself feel better. That caliper shouldn't move more than an eighth of an inch and not in a direction that would impact the spindle, but I don't know how much, if any, those assemblies flex under load.
  25. Mysta2

    Front suspension help

    Got my new disks in yesterday: They look so small now. I went ahead and built the sub assembly to make sure everything fits The calipers are damn tight to the spindles, but they do fit.
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