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Mysta2

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Everything posted by Mysta2

  1. Anyone have a source for a replacement pump? I'd be happy to swap in a new one, but I don't want an aftermarket one. What I think is the accel pump on the side is not connected to the linkage at all. I still couldn't get it to squirt anything pumping it by hand though. The passenger side barrel does seem to be the primary.
  2. Has anyone been able to view any of the videos?
  3. In the carb on my '62 Ranchero the accelerator pump squirt was above the plainly visible with the filter off. In this carb, I cannot see it. should I be able to? Can you see the last video that I posted? I'm assuming that it would squirt out of the bottom of those two rings in there. I know that pulling the choke lever closes the choke. But you made it sound as if the "choke flap" would close after the first accelerator pump. Or did you simply mean that I needed to close the choke (manually) after pumping to increase the chance of a successful start?
  4. What would cause the choke flap to close? The choke is setup currently as manual. Would the accelerator pump only spray fuel with the electric pump running? Or should it do it all the time? I can't see any spray in either condition: Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YihNz24xb5BqrLJq6 Are these video links working? I put them into a shared Google album.
  5. Update: She's a runner now... I didn't really do anything to address this actual problem short of just kind of "working through it". Starts on starter fluid now, and idles well (as far as I can tell) but it does smoke a hell of a lot. Video (if this works) Try this video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/RScpBSj9uF7CP9UZA
  6. There are two filters in line. That one and another in the engine bay. That photo's a year old and I'm not sure that's the filter that's still on it as I have changed them both. I may go ahead and swap them both again for the hell of it though on the chance that it might help. That 90 degree one was a pain to find.
  7. Yeah, I'm fairly certain it's original: (maybe more like a can of RedBull) I've broken it down a bit (long time ago) to make sure it's clean inside and it seems to work well.
  8. Not that I can think of at the moment. The fuel pump is original as far as I can tell, sure looks it at least.
  9. Carb does not seem to be dripping after 5 seconds of cranking. I had my son try and start it from inside the truck and I confirmed spark at the center dist wire. In the original post I stated that it was running a week before the post. I’m not sure what you’re asking when you ask if I’ve ever had it running. That being said though I have never had it running with any consistency or driven it more than up and down the street, so if you mean that then no. update: I got it running and although it smoked a lot, it did idle alright for 5-10 minutes before it star
  10. I have a '79 620 truck that I can't get started. L20B (I assume) with an edlebrock intake and a Webber carb (all installed by the PO) It started a week or so ago in the middle of the night in the garage and ran for a while. This was a test after fixing some of the ignition switch wiring. Now, without any changes it will not start. I can switch the ignition on, and can hear the fuel pump running. It cranks nice and strong but doesn't even try to start. Spraying starting fluid in the carb does nothing (usually it helps with a hard start after a long sit) So this sugg
  11. - Hmm. That does seem to be how mine works... bonus wire for extra credit? - Thinking about this a little more: The switch needs to have 4 wires: ACC= Lights, radio, gauge cluster?, fuel sender? OFF= nothing RUN= Lights, radio, gauge cluster, fuel sender, fuel pump, Coil START= Lights, radio, gauge cluster, fuel sender, Coil, starter So the ACC needs to be on it's own wire (the largest circuit with everything short of running the engine) RUN wire (Black w/white) could just be the fuel pump and coil. Start wire (black w/ye
  12. I don't know if this will work from Google photos, but:
  13. The socket that connects to the rear of the ignition switch in my truck has 4 wires (it's a 6 socket plug and the switch has 5 leads, but there are only 4 wires) I'm not sure what they all are and I can't find a wiring diagram that matches much of what I see under the hood of the actual truck. Confirmed are the following: 1. white (heavy gauge) - Battery positive. 2. Black w/yellow - Starter motor 3. Black w/white - Fuel pump 4. Blue - Unknown #3 runs the fuel pump, but is this just switched power? Does it run everything? What is #4
  14. Mysta2

    New 620 owner :)

    Truck is looking better and better. Nice work. How long ago did you fix the dash cracks? How's it holding up?
  15. On the nose. Fixed now, thanks.
  16. I see why the cups would need to be tight in the bores. Is that what you are referring to when you say "they shouldn't go in easy" Or do you mean the C rings should not go in easy? this seems less critical.
  17. That's a good question. I checked them before sliding them on. But that possibility hadn't occurred to me. I will double check. I thought I bought good ones (Beck/Arnley) But I'm hardly an expert on bearing brands.
  18. I pulled my Center bearing and swapped it out, and figured I would put new U joints in while the shafts were out. But the yokes of the shafts seem too tight. The first one (front) wasn't too bad. For the middle one I was able to get three of the C clips in but even with a C clamp on it as tight as I can get it I can only clear about half the thickness of the C clip so I can't get the last clip in. Even if I was able to pound the C clip into the groove I feel that this would be causing excessive drag on the (head?) of the bearing. I already feel like the front one is too tight but I did get
  19. So according to David Murphys site the torque spec for the bolt is 108-145 ft-lb. I guess Ill be looking for a set of torque limiters for my wrench.
  20. Dredging up an old topic for a new question. I'm replacing this carrier bearing now and I would like to know how to torque the big nut holding the bearing in place. It has a notch in it to keep the nut from backing out which usually suggests that it's not supposed to be all that tight. Earlier in this thread someone said that it requires 140 which I can't seem to do without the thing spinning. I have an impact gun and can spin it on nice and tight but the bearing gets really tight when I do.
  21. Mysta2

    Little Caesar

    Where do you find a roll bar like that? Or do I need to make it? I like it a lot.
  22. The caliper fits fine in the wheel its the spindle that it nearly rubs. I may grind on the spindle a little just to make myself feel better. That caliper shouldn't move more than an eighth of an inch and not in a direction that would impact the spindle, but I don't know how much, if any, those assemblies flex under load.
  23. Got my new disks in yesterday: They look so small now. I went ahead and built the sub assembly to make sure everything fits The calipers are damn tight to the spindles, but they do fit.
  24. The wheels are, but on the other side of the hubs is the bolt circle for the brake disk, which is 6x103 for the 2WD and 6x124 for the 4WD (4WD is bigger since the drive hub in the middle is bigger)
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