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murdrdatsoon72

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About murdrdatsoon72

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 07/17/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Honolulu, Hawaii
  • Cars
    72 datsun 510 wagon Ka24de swap
  • Interests
    cruising..and hopefully soon with the wagon!
  • Occupation
    Retired Corrections Officer
  1. murdrdatsoon72

    Brakes locking up. Need Help!!

    Problem solved!! Mklotz and Dolomite was right. Thanks Bros!! The pushrod was too far extended, I backed down the rod to 1/8" and the brakes work perfect without locking up!! Anybody interested in an 81 280zx proportioning valve (used) with all connectors and clamps? :thumbup: Just bought it off Ebay!
  2. murdrdatsoon72

    Brakes locking up. Need Help!!

    Thank you all for your advise. I will check these suggestions. I did not adjust the brake play, thought about it. Has anyone installed a 280zx proportioning valve on their wagons or should I just keep the original pressure switch? The 280zx MC was bought new about a year ago. Car normally sits in garage (3 years now) because its not street legal yet. Also this braking problem needs to be resolved.
  3. murdrdatsoon72

    Brakes locking up. Need Help!!

    I have the usual 280zx front strut and disc brake setup on my 72 wagon. My issue is when I first drive off the brake pedal operation is soft. After about 20 minutes of normal driving the brakes start locking up and the brake pedal gets really hard. I rebuilt the front calipers (sand/polished piston and bore) new seals and bled Master. I thought at first it was just the front brakes but when I checked the rears (drums) they too were locking up. If I let the car cool down, the brake pedal is soft again until I start driving it for awhile then they lock up. I am running the 280zx dual Master and just picked up a porportioning valve from a 81 280zx. The problem with this setup is my original setup has 5 lines going into it plus brake switch and the 81 280zx only has 4 and no brake light switch. I was told that the wagon does not have a porportioning valve rather a hydraulic pressure switch in the brake system. Can anybody give me some suggestions on this problem?
  4. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    IT WORKS!!! :thumbup: I meet a older guy who drove around the valley in a 69 510. He let me borrow his Clymer Repair manual for 510/wagons/Pickups 1968 - 1972. The wire diagram in the book was exactly like mine. So the wire to post 2 on the light switch is black. The diagram showed a W/R wire from post 2 to Bat +. I just cut the black wire that was spliced into another black wire that was going to ground and tapped into the R/L wire (constant power) that was hanging nearby and the headlights came on!! I tested the hi/low beams, and they both worked great!! I also tested the rest of the lights with headlights on. No problems!! The wire diagram I bought online also showed a W/R wire at the light switch, which I didnot have. Thanks again for everyones input!!
  5. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    Thanks Shacks510..I will try that as my last resort! Just got down removing the double relay setup by DQ. I switched over to the single relay removing the original headlight relay as diagramed in Bananahamuck's response to my problem. Now, when I pull out the headlight switch I hear the relay working but still no lights. Same results as the double relay with original headlight relay in place. Just wondering..I have a R/L wire with female connector just hanging by the headlight switch not attached to anything and its has constant 12 volts. I also have another B/R with male spade unhooked also. I have no W/R wire at the headlight switch (as noted in the single relay diagram) only a R/Y with no power but the G/L wire has constant power. (I had a full head of hair when I started this two weeks ago!) :confused:
  6. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    Bananahamuck..in that wiring diagram, what is the box below the light switch. Is that the other headlight relay that is controlled by the hi and low beam stalk on the steering column?
  7. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    Thanks guys for the advise and info. This forum is awesome!! I will try it again tomorrow :thumbup:
  8. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    Apparently there is alot on this subject, I just need to do my homework and search this forum!
  9. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    Jumped the R/Y wire from fuse box to bat + and hi lights came on. Pulled out light switch, did not effect lights. I checked the old headlight relay and when I pull out the light switch the only power out Im getting there is a G/BL wire. I think thats for the parking lights. When I apply direct power from the bat + to 86 on relays that particular light comes on. Can someone explain to me again how the headlight circuit works on my wagon.
  10. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    Thanks for the advise. I will try that.
  11. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    Sorry for the confusion!! At the fuse box I have a red/yellow stripe wire with a male bullet connector. where does this hookup? The fuse box is not original. There are also a blue wire with a female connector not hooked up. Could this be my problem? https://1drv.ms/i/s!AoChKp7enXy-lmilzTSR1sIx2HJW
  12. murdrdatsoon72

    Rewired Headlights with relay issues!!

    I did the rewiring of my headilghts with relays as stated in the DQ 3.1 article. I have a 72 510 wagon that the original wire harness was given to me in a box. I downloaded a complete wire diagram but appears some of the wire colors don't match. After many nites of of trying to figure out where things hooked up I finally fiqured it out! Everything works except the headlights. So, I decided to to the upgrade and start from scratch. Here's the problem, 1) Headlight switch pushed in (off): With a test probe between Bat+ to High beam relay 86, high beams lights come on. With a test probe between Bat+ to low beam relay 86, low beam lights come on. 2) Headlight switch pulled all the way out and high/low beam control inwards to driver: With a test probe between Bat+ to low beam relay 86, low beam lights come on. With a test probe between Bat+ to High beam relay 86, no lights. 3)Headlight switch pulled all the way out and high/low beam control outwards away from driver: With a test probe between Bat+ to low beam relay 86, no lights. With a test probe between Bat+ to High beam relay 86, high beam lights come on. The old headlight relay clicks when pulling out the headlight switch. My confusion with the DQ article was that there was a descrepancy with the article and the diagram. The confusion was wiring the High beam relay "86" to the red wire with white stripe. The diagram displayed the "RB" wire to that relay. Right now I'm running the red wire with white stripe to High beam relay 86. The red with black stripe wire to the low beam relay 86. I tried switchin wires with the remaining red with blue stripe and solid red wire but it didnt work. Please help!!
  13. murdrdatsoon72

    Brake Caliper help!!

    Thanks for the advice. I am returning all the 300zx parts and now searching for 280zx hubs. Should I be concern on what year? I ordered new calipers, rotors and pads (280zx) from Amazon.
  14. murdrdatsoon72

    Brake Caliper help!!

    I have gone with the 280zx (81) upgrade on my 72 510 wagon. I have followed this forums advice and Dime Quaterly. I installed 84 300zx hubs for the wider track. I wasnt sure what caliper to use since I had a 300zx hub I ordered rotors and calipers to match. My problem is that the mouting holes for the calipers dont match on the 280zx strut. Can someone tell me what caliper combination will work with this setup.
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