Jump to content


New Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About murdrdatsoon72

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/17/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Honolulu, Hawaii
  • Cars
    72 datsun 510 wagon Ka24de swap
  • Interests
    cruising..and hopefully soon with the wagon!
  • Occupation
    Retired Corrections Officer

Recent Profile Visitors

1,589 profile views
  1. I am interested on some info about your lift on the 510 wagon. Was it a hard build? What size tires were you running? I saw a picture of one on the web, is that yours? I really like that stance.
  2. Time Left: 20 hours and 26 minutes

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/k5vYP53LH9m3NNVD6 More pics at above URL. Make offers. Free shipping. Local pickup


    Honolulu, Hawaii - US

  3. Selling Datsun 510 for all (4) door rubber trims, rear lid and rear window seal. Rubber are new and still in original plastic bags. Check pictures for part numbers. Selling as a kit or can part out. Free shipping. Rear window seal for chrome trim moulding. Sunpha brand on all trim except one door. Asking $400 for kit or $65 per door trim, $100 for rear lid and $150 rear window. https://photos.app.goo.gl/JFPhpBoYF4fAnUrF7
  4. Problem solved!! Mklotz and Dolomite was right. Thanks Bros!! The pushrod was too far extended, I backed down the rod to 1/8" and the brakes work perfect without locking up!! Anybody interested in an 81 280zx proportioning valve (used) with all connectors and clamps? :thumbup: Just bought it off Ebay!
  5. Thank you all for your advise. I will check these suggestions. I did not adjust the brake play, thought about it. Has anyone installed a 280zx proportioning valve on their wagons or should I just keep the original pressure switch? The 280zx MC was bought new about a year ago. Car normally sits in garage (3 years now) because its not street legal yet. Also this braking problem needs to be resolved.
  6. I have the usual 280zx front strut and disc brake setup on my 72 wagon. My issue is when I first drive off the brake pedal operation is soft. After about 20 minutes of normal driving the brakes start locking up and the brake pedal gets really hard. I rebuilt the front calipers (sand/polished piston and bore) new seals and bled Master. I thought at first it was just the front brakes but when I checked the rears (drums) they too were locking up. If I let the car cool down, the brake pedal is soft again until I start driving it for awhile then they lock up. I am running the 280zx dual Master and
  7. IT WORKS!!! :thumbup: I meet a older guy who drove around the valley in a 69 510. He let me borrow his Clymer Repair manual for 510/wagons/Pickups 1968 - 1972. The wire diagram in the book was exactly like mine. So the wire to post 2 on the light switch is black. The diagram showed a W/R wire from post 2 to Bat +. I just cut the black wire that was spliced into another black wire that was going to ground and tapped into the R/L wire (constant power) that was hanging nearby and the headlights came on!! I tested the hi/low beams, and they both worked great!! I also tested the rest of the li
  8. Thanks Shacks510..I will try that as my last resort! Just got down removing the double relay setup by DQ. I switched over to the single relay removing the original headlight relay as diagramed in Bananahamuck's response to my problem. Now, when I pull out the headlight switch I hear the relay working but still no lights. Same results as the double relay with original headlight relay in place. Just wondering..I have a R/L wire with female connector just hanging by the headlight switch not attached to anything and its has constant 12 volts. I also have another B/R with male spade unhooked al
  9. Bananahamuck..in that wiring diagram, what is the box below the light switch. Is that the other headlight relay that is controlled by the hi and low beam stalk on the steering column?
  10. Thanks guys for the advise and info. This forum is awesome!! I will try it again tomorrow :thumbup:
  11. Apparently there is alot on this subject, I just need to do my homework and search this forum!
  12. Jumped the R/Y wire from fuse box to bat + and hi lights came on. Pulled out light switch, did not effect lights. I checked the old headlight relay and when I pull out the light switch the only power out Im getting there is a G/BL wire. I think thats for the parking lights. When I apply direct power from the bat + to 86 on relays that particular light comes on. Can someone explain to me again how the headlight circuit works on my wagon.
  13. Sorry for the confusion!! At the fuse box I have a red/yellow stripe wire with a male bullet connector. where does this hookup? The fuse box is not original. There are also a blue wire with a female connector not hooked up. Could this be my problem? https://1drv.ms/i/s!AoChKp7enXy-lmilzTSR1sIx2HJW
  14. I did the rewiring of my headilghts with relays as stated in the DQ 3.1 article. I have a 72 510 wagon that the original wire harness was given to me in a box. I downloaded a complete wire diagram but appears some of the wire colors don't match. After many nites of of trying to figure out where things hooked up I finally fiqured it out! Everything works except the headlights. So, I decided to to the upgrade and start from scratch. Here's the problem, 1) Headlight switch pushed in (off): With a test probe between Bat+ to High beam relay 86, high beams lights come on. With a tes
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.