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About 2one8

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  1. 2one8

    620 LWB with wide 18's?

    The truck will absolutely get finished. May take me a long time, but it will get done. Sourcing S13 subframes right now, have a S14 diff with LSD lined up, if everything fits like I'm thinking it will I already have a carbon driveshaft the correct length, wiring, ECU, fuel... everything is pretty much here and ready, I just need to get it started but the damn snow wont stay away to get the truck moved around. Progress will be posted once I get to start it. Now, back to the wheels, when I say wheel I'm referring to the "rim" itself, not including the tire. So yes, you can absolutely change the overall diameter by changing the sidewall of the tire. Thats why I say an 18" wheel with a 40 sidewall tire has a slightly smaller overall diameter than the wheels/tires that I posted above. I know the 15inch wheels look good above, I just cant picture that size overall diameter with a 18 inch wheel instead of a 15 inch wheel. I'm afraid the 18's will look huge, much like when someone tries putting 20's on a Honda Civic, they look way bigger than they actually are because the car is so small. Hopefully this photo links correctly. The wheels/tires in this photo are 18x10.5 wheels, with 295/40 tires. I dont think its too much rubber for the wheel and think this is a perfect combo for a 18 inch wheel. Maybe I will just have to photoshop this onto a 620 and see how it would look? And no, I wont do a universal flare like those on the truck lol
  2. 2one8

    620 LWB with wide 18's?

    Man, tough crowd in here... Yeah I've followed as much as I can about it. Pretty bad ass build for sure. thanks for your helpful input Even going with a 15" wheel and 60 series rubber like in the photo is larger than factory sizes. The overall height isnt really what I'm concerned with, its the wheel size. the 15's look proportionally good, just worried 18's will look huge compared to the truck, even with the overall height being smaller than the 15" setup. The 18's were $3800 and just sitting in the boxes never used because the car they were bought for got wrecked before I could mount them, and because of the offsets (-30fr/-45rr) they are very difficult to sell, so I'd like to use them if I can otherwise I will probably have to take a huge hit and sell them for way too little $$. I'm not even sure yet if these offsets will work yet, I'm just trying to get some ideas. Truck is getting a built 515whp VQ swap. I will need a wide contact patch in the rear, and I'm swapping to S13 subframes, which also means shortening the axle and tubbing isnt an option nor is it practical for what I want out of the truck. And power steering is already figured out, no worries there. Wont be king pin when I'm done with it. S13 front and rear subframes.
  3. 2one8

    620 LWB with wide 18's?

    I know, wheelbase isn't going to matter.
  4. So I have some wheels from a previous project that never got used, they are 18x10.5 with really low offsets. Due to the low offsets they are proving to be very difficult to sell. Well I'm also starting a 1976 620 LWB project that I want to come out similar to this photo... low to the ground, wide wheels with meaty rubber. The wheels in the photo are 15 inch with 275/60 tires. Those come out to 711 mm overall height. The 18s with a 295/40 would come out to 693 mm overall, so they would be slightly smaller overall. My question is, will 18's look too large on the truck? I can find photos of 18s on a 620, but they are all tucked in the wheel wells and I just cant visualize how 18s would look if they were wide.
  5. Flaring the rear, not tubbing it, so trimming the body for wider wheels and running a flare. I'm leaning more towards IRS and swapping an S13 rear sub-frame in. I've been looking at different ways others have don't IRS and have some ideas. I like the way it was done in this photo, it looks like most of that would fit in the wheel well, or at least in place of the wheel well and shouldn't affect any central bed space. I would like to see if I could notch the frame vs moving it, but in this case the upper control arm would cause an issue but I've seen it done differently in a couple other posts, so I might be able to come up with something that will work. I'm not concerned about moving frame if need be, but avoiding it or keeping it minimal is ideal. And I'm in Brainerd.
  6. I've been looking through Chad Copelands build and how he did his rear suspension (I would post a link, but my computer wont paste anything). He cut the rear tubs to make room for the suspension. Take away the rear strut bar and there looks to still be plenty of room for the bike. While I'm hauling the bike I likely wont need the strut bar as long as the rest of the suspension is solid. If I'm hauling the bike its probably just to BIR for a track day(I see youre from MN), or to a show where its just going to sit in a parking lot. I'm also planning to go wide wheels and flare out the wheel wells, so I can make up some lost wheel size that way. This is just one option I've been looing into. I'll look into the Watts setup for sure. Solid axle suspension is a whole new world for me. I already have a Toyota 8inch that I'm told by a local shop should be plenty for this, but I'm not opposed to running something else.
  7. Radiator in the rear will depend on intercooler fitting. My current intercooler is 12x31x4. I've been looking at some of the SR20 swaps and it looks tight even with smaller intercoolers.
  8. Anyone have a link to or copy of the Project Car Mag article I can look at? Google didn't come up with anything and I cant find it for digital purchase anymore.
  9. With a rear sub-frame swap I'd want to run a strut bar from tower to tower which would prevent me from loading the bike. Granted I can remove the bar if need be. However I may have to run the radiator in the bed, so I may be SOL as far as loading the bike anyways. Yeah these HP levels in a light truck aren't ideal, but I can run multiple maps and with proper tuning I can down-tune to manageable power. Chances are I'll tune down to 450ish for daily, can get down to 350ish on low boost but she will be sluggish low end due to lower compression. Either way, I'm fully aware this thing will be tail happy. This is already going to test my fabrication skills lol
  10. I have a '76 620 LWB that I'm going to be doing some extensive work to, and I'm looking some swap options for suspension. This truck will be primarily street driven, but it will see some road course track time from time to time, but nothing competitive, just casual club run track days or whooping on V8's at Powercruise USA. Powerplant will be a 515rwhp/509ft lbs VQ35 swap from my G35, so I need the rear end to be strong enough to support the power and torque. At first I was looking at using a Toyota 8inch rear with a 4-link, but after reading more about 4-link setups they don't handle well. After further digging I found some threads about guys using the S13 subframes, and even found a thread about swapping the rear subframe in as well. I know the S13 rear diff and axles aren't going to like the power so I'd be upgrading diffs and axles. Are there any other swaps that would be a good option to look into? I'm not sure how I feel about a rear sub-frame swap because I'm then cutting into the bed to fit towers, and I want to be able to put the motorcycle in the bed. Everything I've ever worked on and built has been uni-body and independent suspension, so this is a new realm for me. And yes, I'm well aware of the work that this will take. This is one of those "once in a lifetime" builds. I'm bored with just doing bolt-on work on modern cars, time to get out of my comfort zone and build something that fits me and my character.
  11. Did this swap ever go anywhere? I'm curious to see how its going.
  12. unlikely. Its not licensed for the street, so they would have needed to drive a lot on the grounds to get over 100k. Current track owner stated there were a handful of these that have been sitting in the sheds as long as he can remember. No VIN or title so I have to go through the home built and bonding process. My understanding is they have one from each year throughout the 70's. My understanding is this particular truck was used as a pace truck and grounds truck. It has a light bar frame and wiring in the back, and CB radio in the front. I tried picking this up a couple years back from my buddy that originally purchased it from the track, but he wasn't willing to sell. The only time it has sat outside is the couple years after he bought it and did nothing with it. I haven't tried running it, my buddy said it would run but has no power and tested little to no compression. I'll pull it apart and see what it needs, but would rather swap an SR. Army National Guard
  13. Might as well introduce myself. Names Wes, just took home a '76 620 longbox, 800 original miles. It was originally donated by Datsun to a local race track as a grounds vehicle, they used it for a few years, then it sat in one of their sheds for the next 30 years or so. Needs some work, it got a little banged up at the race track but nothing bad at all, inteterior needs work, and the motor needs rebuilding as its lost all compression. I'm looking to SR20 black top swap, fender mirrors, chin spoiler, lower on wide wheels, do something with the paint, and install a pitbull motorcycle restraint system in the bed. I've been looking at airbag suspension, but trucks and bags are new to me so not quite sure what I'd be getting into yet. Someday I hope to load the bike up and road trip across the country hitting some of the hotspot twisties I hear about people riding all the time, and use the truck for shows and as a bike trackday hauler. So trucks are new to me, cars are not. My first car was a '79 280ZX, and I now have a '03 G35 turbo ~400rwhp, currently rebuilding with goals of ~600rwhp. http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/Fini_G/media/20151129_181302_zpsyvwlyz1e.jpg.html http://s1313.photobucket.com/user/Fini_G/media/11080696_10153302201554172_6584761304291977932_o_zpsdn5xnbgu.jpg.html
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