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noramost

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About noramost

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Prescott, Arizona
  • Cars
    510, 240Z, Pathfinder, D21

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  1. There is no way I am as smart as Mike, he knows 2/3rds of everything Datsun, I know 1/3rd and some of what we know overlaps, for instance they teased us by sprinkling out the good stuff over the years and is was up to us to know this and combine it in a better way, it’s just that we learned it in different ways. I worked on 3 cars a day 200 days a year for 41 years which equals many cars. I also worked 10 years at the Datsun Dealers with 15 mechanics that saw 45 cars a day which equals even more and learned a thing or two. I realize now color coding our member into good better best is an unrea
  2. I guess what I am saying is I did a lot of research in my automotive career and I usually sought the consul of the most learned person I could find on the subject. I have seen many of the answers to peoples questions sending people down the wrong path on this site. I guess I’m saying sometimes I would rather seek an answer to a medical question from a doctor rather than from a patient but we have no way to tell the difference
  3. It’s not my place being new to this site but I was wondering if we should have a new member category for guys like Doctor510 and I who spent our adult careers devoted to Datsuns and he never gives a wrong answer. My résumé goes like this 1. In high school I worked 3 years, 60 hours a week at my dad’s brand new Union 76 station, I rebuilt my first engine and automatic at 15 2. I put myself through 2 years of community collage working at various gas stations 3. I started working for Datsun in 1969 and attended 6 factory training schools and worked 9 years at all the Datsun dealers in the Valley
  4. i agree, you should not take the advice from a guy that made his living for 50 years diagnosing overheating problems on Japanese Cars in the hottest town in the country
  5. noramost

    Any Smog Guys Here?

    not running rich with a .25 CO, it is running lean at idle only; causing HC too go high @900. Open the mixture screw 1/2 turn to 1.5 CO and report back if HC drops enough to pass, if not give me new reading might have second issue. I speak fluent HC & CO, even Lambda and Air Fuel Ratio
  6. noramost

    Any Smog Guys Here?

    open up your mixture screw on the carb to 1.5 and your HC will drop, you are running to lean. I am an emission guy and own my own Sun 5 gas analyzer
  7. I switched to 5/30 in my non-diesel cars with a pt of BG-MOA for insurance. It probably is not good logic but I figured if the million $ Indy cars use it-it might be good enough for me, my OP seems to be the same.
  8. You should consider building your belly pan out of wood living on an island and all, with raising sea levels you might need the buoyancy. But seriously fans and shrouds are low speed solutions, above 30 air speed cools and your fan clutch cycles because of heat but is not necessary at highway speeds. I would suspect your radiator is partially plugged. We used to flush @ 80k and re-core @160k with a larger core because old engines run hotter. I used to use the metal edge off a whipper insert and push it in one of the 6 tubes you can see from the radiator cap hole. It plugs in the bottom 4" of t
  9. in Phoenix if you remove the t-stat you can overheat because the water speed from the pump is increased and the heat exchanger does not have enough time to do it's job but you are rite, 5W oil cools better than 10/30 because it travels through the oil coolers faster, must be one of those 2 and 2 equals 5 things. I'm making my snow shield for my 510 out of 1/8 aluminum, i still have the stock one but I want a bigger shinier one with a cut-out for the KA24DE drain plug
  10. Pull your drive line and move your u joints by hand you will get a better feel. The dust collar on the tail-shaft can come loose and rub on the yoke, it's OK if it disappears
  11. Cooling tips for Phoenix when it gets up to 130 1. Seal between radiator support and hood 2. Fan shroud and snow shield mandatory 3. Extra blade on fan 4. Foam seals between condenser and radiator all around 5. Sometimes a 195 t-stat would keep the coolant in the radiator longer than a 180 and cool better 6. Electric fans seem to not be sufficient at a 5-way intersection waiting for a train 7. The faster you go the hotter it gets means radiator plugged, happens every 80k, or too small 8. Toyota offered silicone to rebuild fan clutches so added 1 tube to Datsun fan clutch. 9. Copper radiators c
  12. Good stuff so true that it cools better with it, also called the snow shield
  13. Everything under the hood should bolt on, you will have to fabricate under the dash. I find it easier to use the D21 heater box with the evap and blower with stock controls to the new stuff but it will have to be figured out. D21 has a nice firewall boot to keep the engine heat out, get it also if you can
  14. This should work quite well
  15. That is why we called them Gluteus Maxims
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