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Everything posted by MapleNuts

  1. Cannot find a 610 brake booster online anywhere. Anyone know where i can get my hands on one? Ive seen some 210 ones that look like they might fit but the diaphragm looks smaller and the master cyl side bolts are longer. Or where i can buy a rebuild kit. ive seen 7" kits for Z booster but not sure if these are 6" or 7" boosters? Thanks guys.
  2. Time Left: 13 days and 11 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Or if you know where to buy a rebuild kit. Cant find a new or reman booster online for the life of me. Thanks


    Renton, Washington - US

  3. No problem. You got it pretty much how i got the car, only stole a few things off it for the 610. It was guna be my drifter, but the body was to straight anyways to justify sending it into a wall haha.
  4. Glad I gave it to someone who will take care of it! Good luck man
  5. Yeah it fit fine. Mine was auto so i had to make a new shift plate, and used a boot from a zx.
  6. FINNALLY, brakes are working.Turns out you can’t trust “new” calipers as well. Took some old zx calipers and rebuilt them and now I have brakes! Thanks again to everyone for the help!
  7. Alright, havent touched this hunk of junk for a few months now. My plan was to start from the beginning with all original stuff, master, calipers, ect. Make sure that all worked fine first. But for the life of me i cant find my original 3/4 BMC Getting back into it ive noticed this as well. The new ZX calipers on the car seem different than an original seized set i have. Hence why i have flipped the brake pads. The raised trapezoidal part of the pads i got didnt fit in correctly, but they did fit flipped with the trapezoid fitting into the piston fine. Pads would have fit fine with these seized calipers. ] Also appears to have different stampings. I thought all ZX calipers were the same? Also I probably asked this before but how am i to fit the bake shims onto these suckers?
  8. I even put on the original calipers and master cyl and it still acting the same. Somethings off
  9. For how many times I’ve bled brakes I should have bought one forever ago haha. Thanks for the input
  10. Ok I’ll double check th booster for that. I haven’t seen any air coming out of the calipers, I’ve bled them like 4 times now. Fluid seems strong enough. I can see the pistons pushing on the pads as well. Idk something’s gotta be up these calipers
  11. I think there is a prop valve. Lines run from master into the box with the brake light switch to a prop valve and then to calipers/wheel cyl No mix up, the lines are running to the correct sides. Should I try bypassing the what I’m. Assuming is that prop valve. I’ll take some pictures of everything when I get home. Also with the master off, is some air coming from the pushrod in the booster normal? Or should I coat the pushrod in vasaline to seal it or something
  12. I took a apart the booster to make sure that spacer was in place. Now it’s hissing and pushing are through the pushrod area.
  13. Ive checked now to make sure the push rod has adequate throw into the the master and it does. Initial push rod length is still good. still looks like things are pointing to the calipers or proportioning valve. When bleeding the rears, open bleeder valve and pedal goes to the floor. When bleeding the front, open bleeder valve pedal moves about a 1/8 -1/4 of an inch. I've also noticed that the stream when bleeding the rears seems stronger than the fronts Is this due to not enough fluid making it to the front via prop valve? and the brake light coming on when i slam on the brakes would indicate fronts are not getting enough fluid correct? Ive also disconnected a caliper and didn't see much, to any fluid leaking out of the hard or soft lines. not like the original brakes where it would be leaking like a sieve. are there different prop valves for different year 610s?? I've also noticed that the stream when bleeding the rears seems stronger than the fronts
  14. I agreee I think it’s something to do with these calipers. I’m getting plenty of fluid at each corner which is confusing. I can see the caliper piston pushing on the pads and holding them enough to not move by hand. But at soon as engines on, nothing. I’ve adjusted the rear drums enough to where if I give em another turn they lock up. Maybe I’ll throw on the 3/4 bmc for the hell of it
  15. Yes bleeder screws are on top. I shouldn’t have to go to a 15/16 bmc right?
  16. Ok pushrod is adjusted. brake falls when i turn engine on, tho it doesn't fall very far because pressure doesn't build up that high in the travel falls slowly as well. still no brakes when cars on. Should i be looking into a proportioning valve? do i have the wrong year zx calipers? i even tried the MC off my 280z and it worked worse.
  17. Yes ive bled the rears, i have bled all 4 corners in proper order each time. push rod has been adjusted I just re bled the master, made sure the E brake didnt have tension, double checked the rear adjustment, and re bled all 4 corners again, and no cigar. Still plenty of fluid coming out. After this session ive noticed that when bleeding the front calipers, when the bleeder valve is open the pedal only moves down slightly 1/8-1/4 inch. Im guessing im not sending enough fluid to the front then? Ive heard several people do exactly this setup with just adjusting the push rod, so damn frustrating haha
  18. Alright here’s another one for you guys. II got a brake problem. On my 610 recently upgraded to 280zx front calipers with 7/8 master cyl. All brake parts are brand new including wheel cylinders. Original booster. Brakes are hard when cars off and when on I have almost 0 brakes. Foot goes to the floor. When bleeding fluid flows through the calipers a good strong amount. Looks like the 7/8 over the 3/4 BMC has about a extra 1/4in of pushrod length. Is this difference my issue or proportioning valve? Or booster related? Also when I slam on the brakes with engine on the brake light comes on. Thanks guys.
  19. MapleNuts

    610 stall

    Yupp definitely time to upgrade. Maybe I’ll find one at Canby. But from driving it up and down my driveway with no brakes it seems to be working! God what a headache haha. Knew it had to be something stupid. Thanks again guys. Appreciate the help you give to fellow datsuners
  20. MapleNuts

    610 stall

    So I put the new coil and ballast on and it seems to be working normal! gotta put it back on the ground after brakes and really see! Thanks again Mike you are a godsend!!! and thanks to everyone else for helping. Ill let you guys know if it works. heres hoping i can make it to Canby!
  21. MapleNuts

    610 stall

    the coil has a crack in the tower! i tried to put on another coil for a elcetronic ignition because thats all i had. put it on, car wouldnt even turn over, starter didnt do anything. put old coil back on and same thing. used a remote starter and it turned over. went back inside the car and fired it up fine. now its acting a hell of a lot better! So real quick before the parts store closes. What ohm coil should i get and while were at it what for the ballast resistor?
  22. MapleNuts

    610 stall

    Its closed. at 15 degrees idle and total timing 36 degrees.
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