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About MapleNuts

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/14/1992

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    1975 280z, 1975 610 goon, 79 510 goon
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  1. No problem. You got it pretty much how i got the car, only stole a few things off it for the 610. It was guna be my drifter, but the body was to straight anyways to justify sending it into a wall haha.
  2. Glad I gave it to someone who will take care of it! Good luck man
  3. Yeah it fit fine. Mine was auto so i had to make a new shift plate, and used a boot from a zx.
  4. FINNALLY, brakes are working.Turns out you can’t trust “new” calipers as well. Took some old zx calipers and rebuilt them and now I have brakes! Thanks again to everyone for the help!
  5. Alright, havent touched this hunk of junk for a few months now. My plan was to start from the beginning with all original stuff, master, calipers, ect. Make sure that all worked fine first. But for the life of me i cant find my original 3/4 BMC Getting back into it ive noticed this as well. The new ZX calipers on the car seem different than an original seized set i have. Hence why i have flipped the brake pads. The raised trapezoidal part of the pads i got didnt fit in correctly, but they did fit flipped with the trapezoid fitting into the piston fine. Pads would have fit fine with these seized calipers. ] Also appears to have different stampings. I thought all ZX calipers were the same? Also I probably asked this before but how am i to fit the bake shims onto these suckers?
  6. I even put on the original calipers and master cyl and it still acting the same. Somethings off
  7. For how many times I’ve bled brakes I should have bought one forever ago haha. Thanks for the input
  8. Ok I’ll double check th booster for that. I haven’t seen any air coming out of the calipers, I’ve bled them like 4 times now. Fluid seems strong enough. I can see the pistons pushing on the pads as well. Idk something’s gotta be up these calipers
  9. I think there is a prop valve. Lines run from master into the box with the brake light switch to a prop valve and then to calipers/wheel cyl No mix up, the lines are running to the correct sides. Should I try bypassing the what I’m. Assuming is that prop valve. I’ll take some pictures of everything when I get home. Also with the master off, is some air coming from the pushrod in the booster normal? Or should I coat the pushrod in vasaline to seal it or something
  10. I took a apart the booster to make sure that spacer was in place. Now it’s hissing and pushing are through the pushrod area.
  11. Ive checked now to make sure the push rod has adequate throw into the the master and it does. Initial push rod length is still good. still looks like things are pointing to the calipers or proportioning valve. When bleeding the rears, open bleeder valve and pedal goes to the floor. When bleeding the front, open bleeder valve pedal moves about a 1/8 -1/4 of an inch. I've also noticed that the stream when bleeding the rears seems stronger than the fronts Is this due to not enough fluid making it to the front via prop valve? and the brake light coming on when i slam on the brakes would indicate fronts are not getting enough fluid correct? Ive also disconnected a caliper and didn't see much, to any fluid leaking out of the hard or soft lines. not like the original brakes where it would be leaking like a sieve. are there different prop valves for different year 610s?? I've also noticed that the stream when bleeding the rears seems stronger than the fronts
  12. I agreee I think it’s something to do with these calipers. I’m getting plenty of fluid at each corner which is confusing. I can see the caliper piston pushing on the pads and holding them enough to not move by hand. But at soon as engines on, nothing. I’ve adjusted the rear drums enough to where if I give em another turn they lock up. Maybe I’ll throw on the 3/4 bmc for the hell of it
  13. Yes bleeder screws are on top. I shouldn’t have to go to a 15/16 bmc right?
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