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IsaacHeink

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  • Location
    Auburn, AL
  • Cars
    1981 Datsun 510 Wagon

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  1. Time Left: 2 hours and 27 minutes

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Unfortunately, the time has come for me to sell my first love. It has been so good to me, but it is no longer practical for me to drive it. I could hold on to it and let it sit, but that would be doing it a disservice. I am having the distributor replaced now ($500) job, so I am asking $750 for it. To me, what matters most is that whoever takes it from me loves it and treats it right. Please contact me with any questions.

    $750

    Auburn, Alabama - US

  2. Thanks for the insight! I'll try to disconnect the electric choke if I can identify it! I apologize, I wasn't very clear about the battery dying. It died because I left the headlights on overnight. The battery is reading 12.4 off, then around 14.8 when the engine is going. I haven't checked the voltage with the headlamps on, but I'll do that if I can get it running. My specific car actually has two coils; one for the ignition cylinders and one for the exhaust cylinders. Do I'll hold the coil wire near a ground while trying to start the car or while it is off?
  3. Hello all, I was wondering if having a rich fuel mixture could cause starting problems? It cranks but it won't start. The starter just turns over and over and over. My car will not start consistently - some mornings it starts fine but will not start when I go to leave work in the evening, and other days it will not start at all. I only ask if it is the mixture because I get a strong smell of gas when I try to start it and I've checked everything else. Some back story: It was having issues starting late last year, but those seem to go away after I replaced the spark plugs, high tension wires and distributor cap and rotor The battery died on December 31st and since then it has given me problems. I checked the battery volts (12.4) and starting amps, and the alternator. I also replaced one of the ignition coils to no avail. Thanks in advance! Isaac
  4. I checked the throttle both throttle plates on Friday and they were both closed. Last week it ran better - shorter surges and idling around 1500 rpm. I didn't check the BCDD because I went out of town and didn't have time. I got back into town last night and when I went to start it this morning it wouldn't start. It sounds good when I crank it, but it just won't turn over. I am going to try to start it when I get home and if it starts I'll try plugging the BCDD. If it doesn't start, I suppose I'm just SOL.
  5. I've been doing some reading in my service manual, and I think the cracked hose running from the air cleaner was running to the A.B. Valve, do you all think that could be causing my high idle? I've posed a picture of the cracked hose and a picture showing the valve its hose runs from. I went to Advance Auto and found some generic hose that seems like a good fit, however, the hose on the car has a metal piece inside of it that looks like a valve of some sort, and I'm not sure if I want to cut the original to get the valve out before I have a sure-fire replacement. https://imgur.com/mFfxT73 https://imgur.com/eqjAbiZ Also, Mike, here is the BCDD on my carb. I gave it a good look-over and I don't believe it has a adjustment screw. https://imgur.com/EioDJud If I have any light tomorrow when I get home from work, I am going to re-check that my secondary throttle is completely closed.
  6. If the secondary throttle is the plate inside the hole next to the whole with the choke, then yes, I'm sure it was closed. And I'm assuming the primary throttle is beneath the choke? That one was closed as well. However, I did not check these while the car was running. Should I start my car then check the primary and secondary throttle plates? Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you about the BCDD! I found the BCDD on my car, but it doesn't have a rubber stopper, but actually has a hose running from it instead.
  7. The secondary throttle is closed but opens fine with some pressure. The primary plate is closed as well. I'm puzzled and stuck. Can you think of anything else?
  8. I took the air filter body off so that I could check the fast idle cam, and it moved freely as I opened and closed the choke. The only thing I noticed was that when the choke was all the way open the cam wasn't all the way down, if that makes sense? Like there was some distance between the cam and the arm that moved it in accordance with the choke plate. After the air filter was off, I did make some troubling discoveries. First, the hose that runs from the air filter body the engine was severely cracked. I'm going to replace it before re-installing the air filter body. Second, one of the nipples on the carb was "mucky" and cracked. I think this actually might be my problem, so I'm going to replace it and see if that helps. Lastly, I saw that some wires going into the manifold directly below the car are broken and disconnected? I don't know their function or how long they've been disconnected, but it was quite shocking to see them in such disarray. I've been taking pictures and I will post them later, but I am racing against the sun right now.
  9. I turned the idle speed screw down (counter-clockwise) and the idle speed never decreased. I turned it eight whole rotations until it felt like the screw was going to come out of it's fitting. Is this normal? To see no change like this? I don't know if this fact is consequential or not, but my engine does not shut-off right away when I turn the ignition off. It runs and shakes for up to 15 seconds after I remove my key.
  10. Hey guys, I just changed my oil, warmed my car and inspected my choke, and it was totally vertical. Something I noticed when observing the car while I warmed the engine before changing my oil: It does idles at a stable 1300 rpm and runs smoothly, which made me realize, the surging and high idle only happens when I am driving it. Sorry to be such a novice, but how do I manipulate the throttle? And can you point in the direction of the idle speed screw?
  11. Thanks so much! I'm excited to get some feedback and some stuff to try. I haven't! To be honest, I haven't done much work on my car in the past. I do the easy stuff (oil changes, radiator care, fluid levels, fuse changes), but have never worked on my car in any real capacity because I am scared I'll mess something up. I've always wanted to learn, so I'm starting now. I have the perfect tool (a workable car with some issues) to learn. Anyway, I will try adjusting the idle first thing on Saturday after I change my oil! Is it odd to you that it is only starting to surge even though I've had the idle so high for so long? Truthfully, I'll have to do some reading about the choke and fast idle cam to understand their function and location before I mess with them, but I'll do that tomorrow night so I can check on them Saturday. I'll try lowering the sensitivity to the BCDD as well. Should I do this while my car is idling and listen for changes in the idle?
  12. Hey all, my car's engine is surging to 2,500 RPM when I put it in neutral, then idling at 2,000 after the initial surge. Ordinarily, my car idles between 1,100 and 1,500 (high, I know). Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be? I replaced the fuel filter on October 1st, and it is currently at 239060 and is due for an oil change at 239090, which will happen this weekend, come hell or high water. I've done some reading on here and in my Haynes manual, and it seems like this is a fuel system issue, likely a carburetor? Does that sound right? Thanks in advance.
  13. It does not have a hitch! The twist looks pretty uniform and the wire has been under my car since I bought it.
  14. Thanks guys! The only accessory I know of is the stereo, but I tried it and it worked after the wire was detached.
  15. Hey all, I was pulling out of a parking spot this afternoon and I heard a loud, scary noise. I got out to check what I had hit, but discovered that this green and white "combo-wire" underneath my car. Strangley, it seemed like one end had been cut (or pinched) and the other end had been pulled from the car. I have noticed the wire before when changing my oil, but I do not know what it runs to or from. I did notice that it runs almost the entirety of my vehicle. After I found the wire, immediately checked all of my lights, signals, etc., and everything seemed in working order. I had to move my car across campus to a different lot, so I drove it there and everything seemed okay with the car. I own a repair manual for my vehicle (though I do not have it with me), and I found that green wires run to signal systems and white wires run to charging systems. This information was somewhat useful, but I still do not know exactly what the wires run to and from. Does anyone know what the wire connects to? And will my car be OK to drive to the mechanic tomorrow? Attached are links to pictures of the combo wire, and below is some information that may be useful. 1981 Datsun 510 Wagon The "combo-wire" is approximately 4.5 feet in length. I looked underneath both the hood and the car itself, but I cannot find any sign of the rest of the wire. Thank you in advance, Isaac Links to images: https://imageshack.com/i/pnEyudKAj https://imageshack.com/i/poNcK0Rlj
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