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About charbly

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  1. Time Left: 3 days and 10 hours

    • WANTED
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    Looking to convert my 75 620 to electronic ignition. Hoping someone out there has an extra matchbox distributor (hitachi d4k) they would like to sell. Rebuildable or ready to go I will buy it from you. Thanks!


  2. a crackpot theory afterthought. to fix this could one remove the 3/4 check ball and spring, move the shifter into 3rd, thereby double engaging the gears, and then very slightly move the shifter hopefully right between the 1st and 3rd position and drop both gears down into neutral, thereby removing your problematic 1st gear from its engaged position?! i guess the hard part would be aligning your 3/4 gate when you reinsert the check ball and spring? is this at all possible? or am i missing a major problem of removing a check ball and spring before dismantling the transmission? datzenmike? you probably have a good mental inventory of what you can and cannot do with this transmission and the limits of fixing things without removing completely. any thoughts?
  3. hello! i have been having this same problem recently with my 5 speed in my 1975 620. i did a 4 to 5 speed swap and since then have worked on the tranny a dealing with this problem as well as having fixed a sheared roll pin. in the case of the sheared roll pin, it broke on a selector and this results in the feeling of a free swimming shifter where you cant find any of your gears, its as if they have all disappeared. i only bring this point up because a broken pin is a totally different feeling than this problem ohmrchristopher is dealing with. recently my 5 speed got stuck in first as i had the same symptoms of being able to shift to 5 and R and swing straight thru neutral until i hit 1/2 in which the gate finger was blocking me from selecting 1 or 2. i had hoped it was a sheared roll pin again that had somehow lodged the selector in 1st gear and was stuck, but upon cracking the transmission open (removing tailhousing) i was easily able to move the 1/2 gate back to neutral, and no sheared roll pins! it seemed to check out on visual inspection and the fact i was able to shift thru the gears using my hands to select gears with the gates gave me reason to believe it was a simple fluke problem. this instilled in me the idea that there were no broken roll pins or mechanical issues to address anymore. i reinstalled the transmission and the gears shifted flawlessly for a few days driving 25-40 miles a day. left for the weekend and this morning went to go to reverse out of the driveway and low and behold my tricky little tranny had crept back into first while i wasnt looking! same symptoms, cant get it into the 1/2 gate, stuck in 1st when the clutch is let out. this all being said i am left to guess that this could be a check ball problem? which i doubt because the check balls are operating correctly by the fact i cannot shift into 3/4 right now because 1/2 is engaged. so maybe it is a selector rod problem then? the selector has crept out of its original position and when operating correctly is floating closely between 1/2 and 3/4 so its able to engage 1/2 and then slip out into the rest of the gates? or a worn selector? which i also doubt because upon visual inspection it seems to be fine. im sorry i dont have an answer but i figure all the info i have gathered, although not decisive, will benefit this group problem solving going on. random notes i have acrewed in my journey -this happens to me only after the car has been parked, i drive into my driveway in 1st and engage the clutch and move the shifter into neutral to park the vehicle -before this happens (in the days prior to getting stuck) i feel a stiction as i shift from 1st to 2nd, it doesnt stop the shift from happening, but it feels as though there is resistance to the shift hope any of this helps.
  4. thanks to doctor 510 i recieved measurements of the mystery diaphragm spring. here are the dims as relayed to me. Free length 42.41 mm Wire dia 0.88 mm # coils 7 OD 21 mm thanks for all the help!
  5. Does anyone have any dimensions for this spring? I.e. Overall length, OD, wire size? Thank you!
  6. hello all, last night i began my first hitachi carb rebuild for my stock 75 620. when i pulled apart the secondary vacuum diaphragm to check the insides for tears or anything suspect i was surprised to find that there was no spring installed inside! of all the diagrams from the service manual it shows a light spring to help return it to rest after its been compressed by the throttle body linkage. i assume there are no models that do not have a spring in the secondary vacuum diaphragm. does anyone have any experience replacing this spring, as in where to find it, without buying a donor carb? or how light of duty the spring is that i can make one or find a replacement from an alternate source? any help would be greatly appreciated.
  7. charbly

    Two tone 1975

    So ive done a lot of rust detailing over the last few weeks using ospho and red oxide primer to seal. Throw in a fewwwwwww hours of drilling out rust holes and welding and grinding in the bed. All in all its in great condition, nothing a little attention cannot take care of. The engine is in great condition and soon this will be a great little work truck for me. Im located in san luis obispo on the central coast of california.
  8. charbly

    Two tone 1975

    Hello everyone i just joined the cult by purchasing a 1975 datsun 620. It is an l20b engine with a manual four speed and im having a blast restoring it. Im doing everything from bodywork (like most i have rust) to the upholstery of the bench seat. As i get better at this i will post pictures of my progress. Thanks for all the info so far in all of the forums. Ill post pictures as soon as i figure out loading photos from my iPhone.
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