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About 620_Brian

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  • Gender
  • Location
    St Pete, FL 33701
  • Cars
    1979 Datsun 620, 2010 Toyota 4Runner, 2018 Kawasaki Z125
  • Interests
    vintage import cars / trucks, motorcycles, PWC's.
  • Occupation
    Electrical Engineer

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  1. The CAS is in the distributor on this one. Not really serviceable from what I understand. I have 2 - S14 dizzys. They both act exactly the same. Unless there’s something I don’t know about the CAS?
  2. Set the timing per FSM. Got it running by unplugging the CTS (it’s original also, and tested bad), new plugs and turning the FPR down to 10psi. I’m going to order new injectors I guess? Not really sure what this fuel delivery problem is.
  3. Righto. So now that I’ve proven in theory that the timing is there at 0 DEG TDC with the noid light and the timing light (exactly in sync), I just have to twist the dizzy to get the proper running timing. I think the FSM calls for 20 DEG BTDC or something.
  4. They came with the “free” KA I got. Theyre about the only thing still original so ya. They’re suspect.
  5. Well..IF I have the dizzy set to 0deg TDC based on the timing light flash on the crank pulley, it fires at exactly the same time at the injector. I assume that's what the dizzy adjustment is for - if its set at 0deg then they are in sync. Not where you want it for a running engine of course, just as a test that im in time. Then you'd adjust it to 20deg or whatever to dial it in. Am I assuming correctly there?
  6. Yes I'm positive the dizzy is correct - in fact I've torn the front of the motor off twice now this week second guessing myself. Everything lines up perfectly and in time. TDC, dots on sprockets, marks on chains, cams pointing out. When I continuously crank it with a timing light connected, the light flashes perfectly on 0deg mark, dizzy is within its adjustment hole. Also with the noid light in the injector #1 plug I can slow down the vid and see the noid in sync with the 0deg timing light flash. Like I said ^ I have even removed the fuel rail, rigged up water bottles and watched all 4 injectors spray. It looks like its way to much of a spray to me but whatever. One other thing - I can get it to sort of run with the injectors unplugged and spraying start fluid... Stoffregren - I removed all of the IACV stuff off the back of the intake manifold and made block off plates during the build....I was told it runs fine without. The intake literally has two vacuum ports - one for the brake booster and one for the FPR. I bought new plugs today..I'm going to reassemble everything again so the MAF and the IAT are sending something to ECM and try it again. Ill grab some codes after that and go from there... Ill post a new video of what I find.. My neighbors are going to hate me - open header! I also have some other injectors to try but they are the purple SR versions - probably way to much flow. Open to any other suggestion too. "get a KA they said, it runs on like 6 wires they said, it'll be great they said" 🙄
  7. Yes I have and yes they are very wet - still sparking after a good drying though. Note - I do plan on changing the oil right away once I get it to start/ idle because I'm pretty sure there's gas in the oil from all this cranking and flooding.
  8. I have a separate "build thread" somewhere here an Ratsun but I felt this needed its own..... Sorry for the long post but I want to get all the data out there to help get this resolved..... Over the past year, I have entirely rebuilt a 96 KA24DE and swapped it into a 79 Datsun 620. Bottom end and head was assembled by the reputable shop that did the machine work,. I did timing assembly and torqued down the head myself. It has the standard KA/240 5 speed behind it (also rebuilt). Wiring Specialties harness custom made for this application and a 96 KA Auto ECM. Everything is plugged in and terminated per wiring specialties documentation. Grounds all over the place, chassis, body, starter, alt, ecm. Brand new battery. Proper S14 dizzy. Good spark on all 4. Walbro 255 FP and a Tomei FPR set at around 40psi. Stock KA red injectors (I think). Triple checked the timing - i.e. - I put it at TDC with the finger in the #1 hole trick, long ratchet extension dropped in plug hole is at its top movement. Crank pulley is on 0deg, the #1 Cam lobes are pointing out at TDC (pics below). Also did a noid test - injectors are flashing (vid below) and I removed the fuel rail and rigged up water bottles under each injector. They all spray while cranking (a LOT actually). I just cant get it to start / idle on its own. some pics / vid:TDC cams: TDC crank pulley: FPR: NOID vid: What am I missing? Any help is greatly appreciated. Dumb theory - Its almost like the injectors are spraying TOO much and flooding the cylinders - like its not presenting an nice atomized spray on the compression stroke - its more like a giant puddle that the plugs cant ignite? I don't know.
  9. Ya I don’t know why I said 1/4” - the plate we were water jetting was closer to 3/4” actually. But it was just what lying around in the drop pile.
  10. Generic plate I’ve been trying to make work. Not to scale and I'm not positive on the shown M sizes - all preliminary..
  11. See the pics in this post. It can be done, but like I said I think I can come up with something better that can be duplicated by others. I'll be doing a acad drawing for the brackets when perfected.
  12. Well..I think I can just use a 3,4,5 rib belt or whatever on the 2 remaining crank pulleys. I have the 2 inner ones to choose from. I did the SOHC power steering delete so I'm already running a mismatched belt on the outermost crank pulley. From what I read there are guys that have 1000's of miles with that setup with no problem. I guess that's why I'm assuming I can do the same on the remaining inner pulleys. I do have one of the giant cast OEM compressor brackets, but I've totally scrapped that idea - its just too much. I've been trying to mock up a simple flat 1/4" plate that would use the 4 oem compressor bracket holes on the block. These holes would be slightly slotted for "X Axis" adjustment. Then 4 more holes threaded in the plate for the oem compressor to mount with spacers in the appropriate Z Axis. There's the guy in a link in previous post that did it just like this but it just seems so tight - I think I can come up with something better with that smaller compressor.
  13. Cool. Almost 🙄 I’ve been trying to mock up different bracket configurations with the OEM compressor. It’s still really tight with hardly any adjustment room thanks to that stupid steering box. At the suggestion of my AC guy I’m now looking at what he called the smallest compressor available. It’s what all the LS swap / hot rod guys use - a Sanden SD7B10. It’s about $150 new with warranty. I’m going to mock one of those up when I have more time to tinker at work. There’s a company called dirty dingo that makes the LS swap brackets that I’ve gotten some ideas from. Something like this but obviously for the drivers side:
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