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patrowan

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Everything posted by patrowan

  1. do you really want to sell it?
  2. I have XP, IE7. There is no password box, just user name on main page. When I went to post a log in screen came up with both boxes. hope this helps.
  3. I'm interested in the axle $30.00 would be great. Could you give me a measurement, so I know it's the same width.
  4. As I said I got it out of a jy. I had it out yesterday trying to straigthen it. It was bent in two places. Right at the bearing and about six inches back from the spline end. I managed to straigthen the spine end (smaller easier to get at), but the flange end was a no go. There's about .015 tir flange run out and about .010 tir register diameter run out. I shimed the hat to take out the flange run out, but can't do much with other run out.
  5. I'm actually not sure what year the rear end is out of. It's in my 521, but I got it years back out of a jy. It was just laying on the ground. I know that its wider than the 521 and I thought that the 78 and 79's were wider than the early 620's. I drove it for years, then when I put on the disc brakes I discovered the axle shaft was bent. I searched for info on the rear axle widths (which I thought I had found before) but couldn't find now. Any help would be appreciated. Pat ps I posted this under part wanted where it belongs, but couldn't figure out how to delete this posting.
  6. I'm in socal (simi valley) and I need a straight (no flange runout, .002 max). I would prefer something local (100 mi.), but i'm willing to pay shipping. I believe that a 78 will also work. Thanks Pat
  7. I'm in socal (simi valley) and I need a straight (no flange runout, .002 max). I would prefer something local (100 mi.), but i'm willing to pay shipping. I believe that a 78 will also work. Thanks Pat
  8. One last try before I toss everything (sorrry I'll try to watch more closely).I switched to disc brakes and I have both front and rear drum setups. I live in so. cal. (Simi Valley) and the parts are way to heavy to send. If some one local wants the stuff, it's their's. The brakes all were working fine when I switched. There are extra cyclinders and drums and the fronts include everything from the dog bone out (new wheel bearings about 40k ago). I hate to just throw the stuff away, so if your close let me know. patrowanmail@yahoo.com
  9. I switched to disc brakes and I have both front and rear drum setups. I live in so. cal. (Simi Valley) and the parts are way to heavy to send. If some one local wants the stuff, it's their's. The brakes all were working fine when I switched. There are extra cyclinders and drums and the fronts include everything from the dog bone out (new wheel bearings about 40k ago). I hate to just throw the stuff away, so if your close let me know. patrowanmail@yahoo.com
  10. The marks on the thread dial (there are usually 8, 4 larger and numbered, and 4 smaller unlabeled in between the number marks) are starts for various thread pitches (tpi). If your chasing (cutting) a thread that is divisable by 8 (8,16,24 etc) you can start (close half nuts, pull the lever) on any mark. If it's a odd (5,7,9 etc) or even (2,4,6 etc) then start on a numbered line. If it's a half thread (4 1/2, 3 1/2 etc) then start on either 1 or 3, or 2 or 4. Finally (it's already more info than wanted) if it's a quarter thead (2 1/4, 1 1/4 etc) start on the same number every time. If it's to much to bother with, then just always start on the same number. Some lathes don't have the dial and so the lever can only be engaged in one spot per revolution of the lead screw. This makes for slower, but safer threading. Hope that answers the question. Pat
  11. patrowan

    vg30 in 521

    NO problems with alternator, it's a couple inches from the manifold. The first one lasted about 350,000 miles was still working fine bearing just got noisy.
  12. patrowan

    vg30 in 521

    I made a right angle bracket out of aluminum (you could probably use a piece of 2 in channel) that bolts to two holes on the side of the block. I think they were for the ac but not sure. I made another right angle bracket for the tension arm that bolts to a hole right below the distributor.
  13. patrowan

    521 v8??

    I put a radiator out of a 87 PU (D21) with a v6. I don't know if that would be enough cooling for the V8 but is way more than enough for the V6 (temp always at thermostat cracking point). I had to trim a little of sheet metal and lower the frame front crossmember. I can't tell from the picture if your water pump is in about the same place, but it looks close.
  14. I also added a bumper stop (1/4-20 or 6mm threaded stud) from some car (who knows where they came from), on both sides near the front. I just drilled a hole and tacked a nut (welder required but jb might work) on. This way I could adjust them so hood matched fenders. This did more to keep the hood from shaking then anything else.
  15. I took the hood off, turn it over, put a little weight (bout 10lbs.) on the braces. Then ran a bead of silicone coulk along the braces, both sides. Let it set over night and it's held for years. You can get the bumpers on EB or Datsun Restorations.
  16. patrowan

    vg30 in 521

    The tank and pump came out of the 88 d21. I put it on the other side of the stock tank and ran a line between them, so I've got about 26 gallons capacity (over 500 miles). I'm pretty sure the pressure is 35 psi (I've measured it once or twice). I think that I read somewhere that there's a VW external pump (in it's own tank) that works. As far as the mounts go, I use the one that were on the engine because that's what I had (there're liguid filled and $$). I don't know about much about what other mounts are like, sorry. I did quite a few swaps when I was younger and learned the best way to get a reliable setup is to use as much off the orginal vehicle as you can. As for the disc setup, I put the info in the post on nwde (last page) and some (no pics) in the brake section here.
  17. patrowan

    vg30 in 521

    OK, I added some pictures. You can't see much. Swap was done long before today's world so no in process stuff.
  18. The posting on the nwde site has the pictures, same name, same title around sept. Pat
  19. patrowan

    vg30 in 521

    I thought (it was pointed out to me) I would show some pictures of what has been my dayly driver since 73. It used to be a 1300 but at about 200k (and 3 engines) in 88 I put in the v6 and auto trans. They came out of a 87 hardbody (tbi) and with the .67 od it worked out well (if you want a quick ride) with the 4.88 rear end. Later I put a 78' 4.4 rear axle and just lately (high gas prices) a 3.70 pumpkin out of an 84'. I don't know how much you can see, but basically I cut off the front crossmember, engine mounts, trans mount and made new replacements. Also the crossmember that goes under the engine between the suspension was remade about 2 in. lower, that might have been avoided with a different pan, but that was what I had. I orginally flipped the steering center link to gain clearence, but eventually that took out the steering gear box and Idler arm (who knew I'd keep the truck that long). So I made a dropped center link. Right now it has it's third engine and I've rebuilt the trans once (needs it again, od clutch pack is dying). All in all it's been a very reliable swap. OH, if you notice there's not much left of the orginal 68 body (it been hit 5 times and I've put into 2 walls to avoid hitting cars when the back brakes lockup in a panic stop). I put disc brakes front and back (in brake section) to fix lockup. The truck has about 650k miles on it now.
  20. I put some info on the nwde site at someone else's request. I'll copy it over here in the truck section.
  21. I have a 68 521 that use to have a 1300, when I put the v6 (vg30) & automatic in rear wheel first lock up became a problem. I replaced the rear wheel cyclinders with 11/16 bores and added a after market proportioning valve set for max drop. That helped but still rear first. I installed the disc, caliper, hoses of a 92 pathfinder on the front (the honda hat wouldn't work with my 14" usmags). I put a 96 pathfinder master cylinder with a 87 sentra booster. This worked out very well (about 3/4" pedal travel, force about what most new cars have) with the fronts finally locking up first. I think this is really due to the proportioning valve in the master cyllinder (after market one was removed) and the quick drop off x.4. I was a little concerned about the extra weight hung out on the king pins, put so far (they're very tight now what happens as they wear) nothing (shimmy, shake etc). I could have stopped there, but due to lazziness (adjusting, checking, replacing). I went ahead and replaced the rears with 88 izuzu tropper disc, caliper, hoses, ebrake. Adding the rear discs didn't seem to change anything much (maybe a little less pedal travel) the fronts still lock up first which is why I started down the path.
  22. I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder is off a newer (try 76) 620. Someone probably changed them in an attempt to stop rear first lock up. Anyway both sides should be the same size or the braking problem gets even more interesting (oh no!).
  23. patrowan

    Window channels

    I suppose this is already known, but I'll mention it anyway. If that channel is the original felt? I would suggest the rubber channel out of 66-71 Fairlane/Comet or 63/67 Ford/Merc. The number most sources use for the material AS1340. JCW use to carry it, but the last time I ordered from them the sent me something else, twice! The nice things about this stuff is it holds the window in place (no rattle) and you can replace it without pulling the door panel.
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