Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ShutterMeShort

  1. Oil pump phasing and distributor timing.  Check it 100 times.  Really easy to get the pump 180 degrees off making the distributor 180 degrees off.  TDC compression or you will be 180 off.  Valves on #1 should be closed. 

  2. On 11/6/2021 at 6:14 AM, nlmb14k said:


    i got the idle down to 1500 if i try to turn it out anymore it bogs

    Thats a start!  I just went through this with my friends truck I'm getting ready to pass CA emissions - carb had several issues (float level and idle cut no ground to start).   As Mike stated - make sure that solenoid is working. Should have 12v on red wire with key on AND a solid ground.  You can pop it out and remove the needle and spring and put it back in as a test - with the guts removed it will allow fuel to bypass and get into the idle circuit but it will probably diesel when you go to shut it off. Good way to check if it's operating - 12v, ground and clicking don't always mean it's working.   Once you know you have fuel in your idle circuit, try lowering your idle speed. Your underhood VECI sticker will tell you your proper idle speed.  Once you get it close, check your timing to make sure its not off too much as it can also effect idle speed.  

    One trick I use for telling if it is rich or lean is bring it to the point of bogging and not running right and spray some brake or carb cleaner in. if it runs better then you are lacking fuel.  If it stumbles worse then you have too much fuel or not enough air.  It's not the best test but it can give you an idea of what direction to start looking in.

  3. With what you have there I'd take as much of the system apart as possible and really clean the lines.  Spray with brake clean and use air to blow everything out.  Put it back together and fill the system and bleed at least a full 32oz bottle of fluid through it.  Dirt obviously can be really bad. Water compresses, can boil, lead to mold growth, and lots of other fun stuff. Seems excessive maybe but we are dealing with brakes...  Let's stay safe.  Let's also not have to tear it all apart again because you missed something!  Let us know how it all goes!


    I see sooooo much bad brake fluid...  it's the one fluid everyone seems to forget about

  4. Update:


    - Got the block back from the machine shop.¬† Painted and rotating assembly in. Waiting on new rings since I somehow managed to order¬†ones for the 2.2L.¬†ūüėí


    - Just acquired a share parts truck with a broken timing chain guide - will be using some of the emission parts to pass CA emissions then most everything will be up for grabs if anyone is interested.  I may fix this engine and put it all back together and sell it whole as well - Time will tell.  

    - Located a Japanese KA24DE out of a Frontier with only 50K miles on it.  Pulling trigger on that asap!  Things are coming together!

  5. Belltech drop spindles for the front is the best way to go for sure.  Re-indexing the torsion bars is a decent second option but does mess with your geometry.  I did blocks in the rear but the 4x4 springs are a bit better way to go but as mentioned, not super low.  

    • Like 1
  6. Well, you've taken on a big project!  There's a lot to do but don't let that stop you from dreaming.  Remember how much work you've already put into it and all you have
    learned from it.  And good on you for deciding to keep an older car on the road - as previously stated, there's no feeling like it.

    Lot's of good advice so far.

    -Definitely get the ROW52 app for searching junkyards

    -Rockauto.com is amazing

    -The Olympia WA Nissan dealer is specializing in older Datsun parts and are very helpful.  https://www.nissanparts.cc/

    -Factory service manual will save your ass.  Live by it. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  7. this... should be interesting.

    Both Rusty and Mike make good points.  There will be a LOT of fab work to make this not just fit but functional.  Adding much weight to the front end of these small trucks entails a lot of suspension redesign - along with the modifications you will be making to fit the engine makes for a difficult project!  I'm excited to see how you tackle it.  There is a lot of information and mostly KNOWLEDGE here so do pay attention.

    Having recently come from the Daimler diesel world professionally, his numbers seem attainable. That's the beauty of diesels - Give them air and too much fuel and they go insane.  The science is not nearly what needs to be for gas.  Adding that turbo and changing to the modified older mechanical fuel pump should make for some huge increases. 


    • Like 1
  8. No reason to stick with the Z24 or Z24i

    CA emissions makes it the easiest to keep the Z24, not the Z24i - stupid, I know...  So i'm going to pass emissions with the factory Z24 and then source a KA24.  Much better parts and aftermarket support.  More power and more reliability as well.  Just a waiting game for the right KA to come around

  9. 25 minutes ago, carterb said:

    Awesome build!  I hope you are able to get back on the road soon and enjoy your (re)creation.

    Thanks bud!  It's been a long time coming. (almost 7 years)

    Just got the seat back yesterday and set it in.  Pretty happy with it!  Man I wish I had the skills and patience to do upholstery - it's definitely an art form!   I think I'll stick to engine and suspension.  lol



    • Like 3
  10. On 1/27/2021 at 8:00 PM, datzenmike said:

    Don't you have to re-smog every year or two?

    Negative.  I live in a change of ownership area only.  Only when a vehicle enters the state or registration changes ownership or area.  I'm not planning on selling so I'm good to go.  If I do sell it will have to be out of state or I revert everything back... Or sell it as non-op trailer baby.

    I'm currently finishing up everything I need for me and my shop to be Smog check and repair certified.  Got about another month to go.


  11. 7 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

    If its any consolation on the engine, the very first Z24 I rebuilt, I put the main bearings in upside down and completely blocked off all oil flow to the rotating assembly.¬† Brand new pistons, rings, bearings, etc.¬† The only oiling was the engine assembly lube I used and splash oiling.¬† It ran for about 30 minutes before locking up completely.¬† Destroyed 2 of the pistons completely.¬† I was in too deep to totally give up¬†though.¬† So I pulled a crank and 2 rods/pistons out of an engine in the junkyard, honed the galled aluminum off the cylinder walls, and reassembled that hunk of junk with new bearings and seals again.¬† Never was a very good engine though and eventually it just got swapped out to one I pulled from a parts truck I bought.¬† Though that engine is still in it, it hasn't ever been very good either.... ūüėĄ¬†

    OUCH.  Yeah, thats a mistake you only make once!  lol!  

    The kicker on this one for me is that I'm only rebuilding it to pass CA emissions then I'm looking for something else to put in it.  The regulations here are pretty hard when you swap motors to something else.  It can be done but its a PITA...    I'll be keeping my eye out for a KA24 out of a newer truck - no more carbs!!

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.