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About Motschrocker

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Des moines, ia
  • Cars
    1966 datsun roadster with L18 swap
  • Occupation
    Claims Adjudicator
  1. Never would have guessed it and I feel silly. Turns out the issue was a wire off the alternator had come off. The wiring is a bit of a mess in the car and I didn't notice it at first. Crazy. I hooked it up fired up the engine and let it warm and before you know it I was cruising down the road with all the power she should have.
  2. Cleaned the plugs already with about the same result. Sprayed some carb cleaner by the gaskets and im not detecting any vac leak. I could try a different set of plugs.
  3. Its a knock off hitachi and yea the timing looks good to me. Ive adjusted the csrb every which way but still having issues. The car has idled alot while testing. Could that blacken the plugs. Could fuel be the issue? The fuel in the tank is from last fall. It sat all winter so its about7 months old at least.
  4. What do i need to adjust? Do i need to retard the timing?
  5. Still not having luck. I pulled the carb off the car and did a deeper clean of the jets. Sprayed through them with cleaner and some wire. I also pulled the plugs and they were black. I cleaned them up as well. It runs a little better but now i have to floor it to get consistent acceleration. It otherwise stutters and feels like it is missing. Not sure what to try next.
  6. I did a jet clean with the carb on the car using carb cleaner and it definitely helped, but the acceleration is still inconsistent. Hesitating and such. When i floor it and get the second barrel going it will accelerate nicley. Looks like i will need to pull the carb and do a thorough cleaning.
  7. Sounds like everyone is in agreement. This will be my first carb cleaning. I found another thread in which datzenmike described how to clean the jets. I will follow that and keep you posted.
  8. Ive got a 1966 datsun roadster with a 73 L18 swap in it. Last year i had it driving pretty nice. Good power and acceleration. Its got a knockoff chinese hitachi on it btw. Towards the end of last fall it started to lack power and to get it home i had to choke it out. I am trying to get it right this spring. I adjusted valve lashes. Check and adjusted points. Double checked timing and made proper adjustments. It will idle really nice no misses that i can hear but under load it falls on its face and wants to die. Once i let off the gas it idles fine. I thought stuck float which a little tapping on the carb did change the idle, but same results driving. Fuel filter is clear. Tried a different coil which seemed to improve its ability to rev without stalling out but when i drive it stalls out. Do you think all these issues stem from the cheap carb?
  9. Dang right after i bought one on ebay. For 5 bucks ill get two in case i mess one up.
  10. Well i do have the sending unit i bought thinking it might be correct. 38 bucks is steap but if that is the correct size it could work. I need to figure something out so i can drive it and keep an eye on the temp.
  11. yeah the airtex is the one I got and it did not work. Should I just post in a parts wanted section and see if someone has a therm housing laying around? It was a while ago that I messed with it but yes I believe I determined the sending unit was the problem. When I ground the wire the gauge would move. Just wont do anything when attached to sending unit.
  12. I had this pic on my phone. It is of the dizzy but you can see to the right of the photo there is a port that connects into the hardline. Can i bypass this. Not sure about the stack of washers. Another strange thing done by the PO
  13. That is what I was thinking. My set up currently has the water outlet. Do I absolutely need this. I see on ebay right now they have a whole set up with sending unit, but with no water outlet. Unless someone knows another place I can get a thermostat housing?
  14. not sure if the images above are still viewable, but the sending unit is different than others I have seen online. It does not have a detachable collar. It screws right into the housing. maybe the previous own modified the lower section of the housing to fit another sending unit?
  15. I am going to revive this thread. It is almost spring and I am looking forward to driving my car. I still need to get my temp gauge working. I ordered a temp sender from rockauto, but it is not correct. As you can see in the pics above the sending unit is not original. I am not sure what my best option will be. Maybe I should just replace the whole thermostat housing? Mine currently has a water outlet, do I need to get the same. I also saw a thread where someone took the top housing off of a mazda 323 and wired the temp sender off of that. Maybe that would be an affordable option?
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