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DanielC

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About DanielC

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/01/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    West Linn,Or
  • Cars
    521's Ford Aerostar
  • Interests
    Watersking

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  1. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    Thanks! On the two L-20-B engines I have, there is a two port valve on the lower thermostat housing. What was it used for?
  2. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    I am running a stock L-16 carb on the L-20-B engine.
  3. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    My thought is that by lifting the back of the truck, the transmission oil would run to the front of the transmission, and away from the speedometer pinion hole.
  4. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    This morning, I cleaned up the air cleaner I got from Pick-n0Pull yesterday. Inside of the lid. Outside of the lid. This needs a little attention. These are the vacuum hoses for the vacuum motor in the air cleaner snout. The two black hoses on the right go to a "T" with another hose that were not connected to anything when I found the air cleaner at the junkyard. There are the two controls for the vacuum motor. i have an idea of how they work, and does this system also use the two port valve on the thermostat housing? Air cleaner is off a 1974 620 truck.
  5. Yesterday, I went to Pick-n-Pull, and harvested some Datsun parts, with my 521. Last week, I got a load of hay.
  6. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    Mike, If I put the rear wheels up on ramps, do you think it will get the back of the transmission high enough so a lot of oil will not come out of the speedometer pinion hole?
  7. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    I have driven Ratsun about 50 miles, mostly not freeway, and the brakes seem to be fixed. Today, I went to Sherwood Pick-n-Pull, they have a 1974 620 truck, with a tool box, not a normal bed. i was hoping the 620 truck had a speedometer pinion I need for the five speed transmission I have in Dragon, one of my other 521 trucks. I pulled the speedometer pinion out of that transmission, and it is a red, 20 tooth pinion. My Datsun competition catalog says that red 20 tooth pinion is for a 4.11 rear axle ratio rear axle. If it is, I think I would like to put that rear axle ratio differential in Ratsun. The stuff I got at Pick-n-Pull today. I am using a stock manual hot air valve 521 air cleaner on Ratsun. I would like to use this air cleaner, because of the automatic mixing of hot air off the exhaust manifold. Winter is coming. L-16 exhaust manifold. The second L-20-B engine I got has a square port cylinder head, but it came with out either manifold. I have spare intake manifolds, needed an exhaust manifold. This is the fan I got today. The L-20-B engine in Ratsun has not ran hot at all, I had put a 7 blade should use with a fan clutch on it. i am going to swap this fan on to the L-20-B engine, because it should reduce fan noise. The instrument cluster was out of the 620 truck at Pick-n-Pull, and I had disconnected the transmission end of the speedometer cable from the speedo pinion so I could remove that part. I also took the cable. It is longer than a 521 cable, reaches the right side of the transmission.
  8. DanielC

    My Dragon Datsun 521

    One of the minor issues with Dragon is the speedometer is not reading, and when it was reading, it was way off. I think I had a speedometer pinion for a 4.875, green, 23 teeth. There is a 1974 620 truck at Sherwood Pick-n-Pull, and it had this red 20 tooth speedometer pinion in it. My Datsun competition catalog says this pinion is used with a 4.11 rear axle ratio. I am looking for the correct speedometer pinion for a 4.375 rear axle ratio. This pinion may not be what I need. But since I have put a L-20-B engine in one of my other 521 trucks, I think I would like to put a 4.11 rear axle in that truck. Did Nissan put 4.11 rear axles in 1974 trucks?
  9. DanielC

    L20B power needs

    Horsepower is just a product (multiplication) of torque and RPM, and a constant factor. We all know that. Increase the torque, or the RPM, you get more horsepower. We all know that too. Engines produce the maximum torque at one RPM, controlled by the camshaft, induction, exhaust, bore, stroke, connecting rod length, and other factors I am not thinking of. The maximum torque is produced when the cylinder gets the maximum amount of air, and therefore can burn the most fuel. Here is the dirty little secret that a lot of people do not realize, or think about. When you shift the torque peak of an engine higher, you can take advantage of the increased RPM to make more horsepower, but in most cases, you make the RPM range that the engine is making the most torque narrower. You lose lower RPM torque to gain torque at a higher RPM. You can compensate for this with by getting a transmission with more forward speeds, but in city traffic, you end up having to shift a lot more. With a higher torque peak, in search of more horsepower, you also lose fuel economy. Another thing to think about is this. If you set up an engine to run in extreme RPM ranges, you actually produce less torque, even at it's ideal RPM, because there is simply not enough time to fill the cylinders with air completely. You lose volumetric efficiency.
  10. DanielC

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Not fixing things "right" the first or second time is a learning experience. My posts may look I know what I am doing, but trust me, you are seeing the second or third or tenth time I redo something, in many cases. I also have extra 521 door window regulators, if Charlie does not have what you need.
  11. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    Mike, Tnanks. I think I have looked at that page before. I will review it again. Dan
  12. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    MikeK, I got the aluminium brackets.
  13. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    Mike K, king of the you tube videos, thanks for the complement! Do you have video, or a complete parts list of what I need besides your disk brake brackets to disk brake a kingpin truck? Datzenmike, I am happy, with the mileage, because I was not trying to maximize it, I am thinking there is room for improvement with a five speed and possibility a slightly higher (lower numerically) rear end ratio.
  14. DanielC

    My Ratsun Datsun 521, now with L-20-B

    I am suspecting I did not need to replace the master cylinder. After replacing the master cylinder, my brakes got bad again, and after a few, or several times bleeding the brakes when they got bad, each time a shorter time between needing to bleed the brakes again, my brake lights started staying on. At first, I thought it was a master cylinder problem, with brake fluid pressure holding the brake light switch on. Yesterday, I took the brake light switch out of the truck, and it was always on. I blew compressed air into it, and it still stayed on. You can not have the brakes light always on, people behind you do not know it you are really stopping, and since the brake lights do not need the ignition on to work, it will and it did drain the battery. Today, I got a new hydraulic brake light switch. I am lucky to have a good auto parts store nearby, Clackamas auto parts in Oregon City. I called a local Nissan dealer this morning, to see if a brake light switch was available, it was not from Nissan. Body parts on a 521 are measured using the imperial system, you know, inches. I knew the flare nuts on a stock 521 are 3/8-24, and I was hoping that the brake line junction block hole for the brake light switch was just a standard 1/8 pipe. It was. This is the old brake light switch screwed into a 1/8 pipe "T" The OEM brake light switch needed a 1" socket to remove it. It needed a fair amount of torque to remove it, so I clamped the lower part of the brake line junction block in a pair of Vice grips. I held the Vice grips in one hand, while unscrewing the old brake light switch with the other. After removing the old brake light switch, I used a oil pressure switch socket to install the new switch. This is the new brake light switch, installed. Then I put the wires back on. Brake lights on. Brake lights off. I did a very short test drive. The brakes seemed OK. It was late this evening, and traffic is basically gone, so I took Ratsun down to a local gas station, and got gas in it. The brakes still seem to work normally. It will take a few days of driving to see if I really got the brake hydraulic problem fixed. i am now suspecting the old brake light switch was defective, and somehow letting air into the brake junction block, but not letting fluid leak out. This is the second time I took Ratsun to a gas station, and filled the tank, since I put the L-20-B engine in it. So finally, I could check the gas mileage on the truck with that engine. 221.9 miles on 9.738 gallons of gas, 22.787 MPG. This is with the stock 5211 four speed transmission, and rear axle ratio, 4.375, mostly non freeway driving, and getting two loads of hay. and not really trying to get good gas mileage.
  15. DanielC

    521 brake hydraulic problem

    Today, I got a new hydraulic brake light switch. I am lucky to have a good auto parts store nearby, Clackamas auto parts in Oregon City. I called a local Nissan dealer this morning, to see if a brake light switch was available, it was not from Nissan. Body parts on a 521 are measured using the imperial system, you know, inches. I knew the flare nuts on a stock 521 are 3/8-24, and I was hoping that the brake line junction block hole for the brake light switch was just a standard 1/8 pipe. It was. This is the old brake light switch screwed into a 1/8 pipe "T" The OEM brake light switch needed a 1" socket to remove it. It needed a fair amount of torque to remove it, so a clamped the lower part of the brake line junction block in a pair of Vice grips. I held the Vice grips in one hand, while unscrewing the old brake light switch with the other. After removing the old brake light switch, I used a oil pressure switch socket to install the new switch. This is the new brake light switch, installed. Then I put the wires back on. Brake lights on. Brake lights off. I did a very short test drive. The brakes seemed OK. It was late this evening, and traffic is basically gone, so i took Ratsun down to a local gas station, and got gas in it. The brakes still seem to work normally. It will take a few days of driving to see if I really got the brake hydraulic problem fixed. I am now suspecting the old brake light switch was defective, and somehow letting air into the brake junction block, but not letting fluid leak out.
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