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mlw

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About mlw

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 11/15/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Eugene, Oregon
  • Cars
    67 Datsun Roadster, 99 Subaru Forester
  • Interests
    Fly tying, boat building.
  1. Nice, a 2000 no less, have fun!
  2. 1975, 16, learned to drive a stick in a 510.
  3. Front Passenger side, with the Altima vented rotor and Volvo girling calipers. Still a few ends to torque down, (the ones without a cotter pin). Drilling the rotors went fine, you want to start 3/16 to 1/4 up the sidewall of the caliper bore, which is a little tricky, I used a rounded point carbide bit in a die grinder to give myself a dimple to start in. While I am on the subject; A few thoughts on assembling the Datsun Roadster front suspension. I had a bit of a time deciphering left and rights, and I have done this once before - many years ago, I have a good memory, it's just sh
  4. Did you get the right throwout bearing collar? - if its a 240mm clutch it needs the longer collar. The "very low on the pedal" suggests to me its not a fluid issue, but a parts compatibility problem. I am sure more experienced hands will jump in with more suggestions, but that's where I would look. Michael
  5. Ogre - I am doing Mklotz70's vented Altima rotor and caliper mod, see his thread for caliper info. He sent me a plug for one hole, I am drilling the calipers per his method. I did the unvented volvo caliper mod years ago, and have some leftover junction blocks. Michael
  6. Hi folks, I am making slow progress with mine: Notice the nice long wheel studs (Futofab) (: Drilling and painting the calipers is next. How do I order pads for these calipers? - not sure what year and model Volvo came with the vented rotors for sure, and would have performance pads available (any pad suggestions welcome, pm me not to derail Mike's thread with a pad discussion) So far everything has gone together nicely (once I got everything apart (:, which was not quite as easy). Michael
  7. Have been too busy with work, but slowly getting the new firewall welded in. I am not an experience welder, so its not as pretty as it could be, but I am sure that it is solid. I was welding a little hotter, starting on the 1/8 and dragging the puddle down onto the folded edge of the body sheet metal, and jumping around to keep the firewall flat, so it looks a little rough, but will clean up. I never liked the old firewall brace, it made a awkward triangle with the sidewall that collected crap, and was hard to clean - so I cut it out - the new firewall is plenty strong without it.
  8. My 67 roadster is stripped down for paint, a good time to do some brake upgrades. The 67 roadster has a poor pedal ratio(3.8/1 by my calcs), weak firewall, and single brake circuit (no room for a dual circuit MC, carbs). I am hoping to fix all three. Existing pedals: Existing firewall: I have never liked the way the brace comes down, making a triangular pocket that traps crud. I am considering cutting the rest of it out. New firewall: I mocked up the firewall piece with a piece of masonite to locale where to put the holes, then tried it flush with the old firewall. But t
  9. I am putting the Tilton pedals (72-601) in my roadster, with 2 compact (75 series) MC for brakes, one for clutch. The roadster has a poor pedal ratio, single circuit (67), and a weak firewall, so the effort of planning, replacing a chunk of the firewall, and welding a little square tube frame to support the pedals was worth it to me. Not sure how many of those reasons apply to your case, but bear in mind it takes some careful planning, a fair bit of effort and $$ (I'll get some pics up in a few days). Michael
  10. Thank you gentlemen. I was all decided to leave them off and stash them, until shacks510 posted (: You are talking about the inner turned up edge, I gather. Now I am back to indecision, as I can see that lip being beneficial, but hate to hack up a decent pair of splash shields. I have a little time to decide, working on mounting some aftermarket pedals,...I'll post some pics (provided my welding isn't terribly embarrassing (: ), when I get a little more progress. Michael
  11. Do I need them? I am getting ready (ie collecting parts while it is cold) to upgrade my 1600 roadster's non vented (and thin) rotors and volvo calipers to Altima vented (mklotz70's kit), put new front springs in, etc and got to looking at the rotor dust shields, and wondering if they still serve a purpose. Mine are in decent shape, but I suspect my brakes would cool better, and probably the rotors last longer, without them. I don't see doing a lot of driving in deep mud, loose gravel, or deep snow, and don't buy the splash of water warping a rotor idea, so what is left for a reason to put
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