Dats Right

Holy shit, just switched out the u joints, that was a knuckle busting project indeed, though my neighbors suffered worse with my hammer banging till late night, thanks again datzen mike, dumped the gl4 first. had needle bearings falling out of grease fitting hole at one point, pulled apart and repacked. done, datsright.

Thanks got the message just in time, greatly appreciate the follow up, probably would of figured out the hard way. thanks much

thank u datzen mike, sorry last question on this but are there two flanges to unbolt one near tranny and one near differential?, thanks much

Thanks, just got my u joints,and reviewing the process i realize i cant find instructions on how to remove the driveshaft. so do i have to drop the drive shaft by removing the 4 bolts on rear of shaft, and if so does the front just pull out, will that drain out all my tranny oil, i recently changed it hoping that wasnt a waste. and another foggy area for me is removing the old u joints, so the caps should pop out when i crank the yoke with a hammer, is that right., and when i put the new ones in i first pop the caps off then press them from the outside. am i misunderstanding anything,.ok and by the way i did read the u joint how to, which was great but want to make sure i fully get it. thanks for the help.

The vehicle is a 69 521 1300 Ive been getting a good squeak when my u joints are under load. so i am looking to replace them, i read datsun mikes thread on changing them, which was informative but am wondering if there is any other parts i should check or switch out when dropping the drive shatft, was going to get the ac delco ujoints from rock auto, do i need to get into differential bearings and such or will changing the univeral joints solve the problem, appreciate any thoughts on the matter. thanks. datsright

before. after.

my mistake i meant the petrinox ignitor not matchbox

Thanks, i recently replaced points, condenser rotor and cap and it made a huge difference so im gonna ride it out for a while, but its good to know i can switch to the match box, might do that in the future now that i know where i can get them. truck is running great lately, carb rebuild kit also helped that though the accelerator situation was tricky. the old one was too big and jammed up in the pump cylinder, then i put in the new leather one and it would instantly soak with fuel and swell up to where it wouldnt move at all. so this is where it gets sketchy, i took the old one (rubber) and shaved it down w a razor blade, tried it and was now too small, didnt pump anything. so in last ditch effort i took one of those gasket washers that i pulled off the carb and stuck it on the bottom of acc pump, below the rubber piece, and it friction fit onto acc pump shaft and was a perfect size for pump bore, it produced a good jet of fuel int carb, so ive been runnin with it. i assume the wassher will fall off acc pump shaft at some point but it is somehow working good now. I am looking for a new pump that will fit preferably not leather, so i can switch it when the jerry rig fails.

Nice, thanks for the link, i didnt think they had one for this engine, i will have to consider this heard it requires a lot less fussing with.

alright, yeah i got carried away ordering parts on rockauto when i saw how much cheaper they were than what my parts store was chargin me, seeing as the engine is a swap, wasnt sure what proper way to set it up was, the coil in there has the main spark wire, and two small gauge, thought 521 usually had resistor but i dont see a mounting spot for it. but yeah it does work now, recently replaced points, condenser, rotor, dizz cap, and helped a lot, thought couldnt hurt to change coil but i guess if it aint broke.......

alright thanks that good news, ill pick up a resistor

69' 521 with j15, a little while back while ordering a bunch of parts from rockauto i purchased a standard(803) ignition coil that says " use with external resistor", from reading through old threads ive found, that the external resistor is necessary when using a points distributor which i am, the current ignition coil does seem to work fine, but looks pretty weathered so i figured i throw a new one in. The coil on the truck does not have an external resistor. so here i am with the wrong coil, should i put it in and add a resistor, or buy one one that does not call for one, or just leave the old one in, and is "standard" a decent product? Thanks

That last response was to the previous question if it was running good with choke off, thanks for the distributor pic, i think my mounting setup on j15 a bit different than yours, but generally the same. Dizz is on othe side of engine, and appears that plate is similar but in different orientation. i see the upward bolt you mention and im going to check mine out to see if i also have that one. I was able to just set it to 6 btdc, which is spec. but at least would like to know if this bolt is snug on mine.

I think so, but not positive that im out of the woods yet, havent had a chance to drive it a lot, since i had to put it on blocks and fix all the brake adjusters and a crumbly brake line, i will let you know after i am able to run it a bit more.

The one i am refering to is the bolt that when loosened you are able to turn the flathead screw that moves the distributor, soyou are saying there is another adjustment that will give more room to advance, when loosened how do you adjust?