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Cardinal Grammeter

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Everything posted by Cardinal Grammeter

  1. Hummm.... interesting, we both have wrong seat and swap makes things correct. When you say yours needs upholstered, just how bad is it? You are 14+ hours from me, but if we met half way that could be done as a long day trip. When you said "...+ cash," were you thinking the $500 or something else? I just might be looney enough to do the swap - I really like having stuff correct even though condition could be "barn found." EDIT: Also have a ski buddy that might possibly plan a ski trip to Jay Peak Ski Resort at the northernmost tip of Vermont.
  2. UPDATE: Talked to shop. The construction is as follows: 1) hard base over springs 2) 1" foam 3) 1" foam 4) jute 5) 1/2" foam 6) ? (sheet of something) 7) Cover which has 1/2" foam sewn into it. They said they will try removing layers. They said I was basically sitting on the springs - I told them that wasn't a problem. I'm thinking removing 2) and 5) and maybe replacing 3) with 1/2" foam. But before I take it back I have a wiring problem in my 2nd daily driver I need to get fixed. Keeps blowing fuses, looks like in the loom.
  3. Thanks for the info and the pic. The pic looks like mine including the "steep" top of cushion angle. NOTE: I also found a pic of an old solid bench seat and took a pic of mine from the same perspective to see how things compared and mine looked maybe 1" higher at the front - nothing could be determined elsewhere. LOWERING: Lowering the seat either by lowering the track mounting points OR cutting and lowering the seat frame cannot be done without putting a curved notch on the front bottom seat edge which is about 1/2" above the floorboard tunnel right now. The Notch should be simple enough as would a simple "Z" bracket. The aft has no simple solution, And if not lowered while the reduced seat bottom angle may be OK, more "recline" would be needed in the back because I believe it would feel "too upright." The aft rail mounting cannot be lowered w/o "channeling" the floor board. TALK TO SHOP ABOUT REFOAM OPTIONS THERE SHOULD BE A KITTY: I'm simply going to say, "Hey you made it too high." and see what they suggest. The original quote was $375, but they informed me I had broken springs and foam was shot (which I knew) and said $500-550. So I said "whatever it needs." They charged me $500 and with tax $530. I offered to pay cash "out the door" for $500 w/o receipt which is customary around here. I don't know how much income they're showing the IRS, but they probably saved over $100 in tax and SS payments - so there should be a "kitty" to work with me. Depending on what they say, I will ask what might be achievable if they make the seat cushions as thin as possible. One might say, "Tomorrow's the Big Day" Tom
  4. I thought about the wheel but I run 205/75r14's and w/o power steering it requires more effort than I would like - if there was power steering I would be HAPPY! NOTE: If I did go smaller, I'd want to find a Datsun wheel (!) PLUS I really want to keep mine 100% stock even though it is a darily driver/work truck. Knowing every engine compartment clip is correct and the windshield washer hoses are routed correctly is, well, I guess I'm a little OCD. And yet, I usually won't lift a finger to wash/wax any of my cars (I have to laugh, I wash out the bed if I haul some dirt or chip stone.) DID YOU look at the "rake" of my seat bottom? Does that seem excessive???
  5. THINKING: about the pic I just posted of a Side View. The front of the rail is very high and the rail is significantly angled upward. Again, could I have a 520/1 seat? I could loser the front attachment point w/o too much welding and level out the bottom rail - I might be able to remove nearly 2" off the front of the rail. IF i did this the following would occur: *) There would now be about a 4" gap at the top of the back seat. (2" over the rail length would be 4" over the rear seat height. *) I could then either A) recline the seat more (this would have to be a mod), OR B) slide the entire seat back 3" *) Normally when you slide the seat back, headroom increases. But the seat is already all the way back and changing the rail angle rotating it around a rear point, there would be no change in headroom. *) I would have to channel the floorboard vertical stiffener to drop the rail and then put washers under the rear rail bolt since the rail would pivot on the "pylon" floorboard surface just ahead of the rear bolt - you can see this if you look carefully in the side view pic.) It might be a another solution.
  6. Wow, yours is pretty close too. I have a Wink mirror in mine and before the job, I would see the top of my forehead in the mirror - NOW I see my eyes looking right back at me and I have to tilt my head to the side to see under the mirror when driving down the road. It looks like I'm sitting 2 inches higher now. A fellow with an old OE cutout measured 17" horizontally from the wheel to the back - mine is 15.5" ALSO, looking at the pic I just posted, it looks like my bottom seat top surface is angled pretty high in the front. I'm wondering if I have a 521/520 seat. (BECAUSE there was no floor board change in the 620 until 1976 model year - so I would expect the cutout seat would have the same "top angle" as the solid seat. IT IS IRRELEVANT what seat I actually have. I've already blown $500 on it and if it takes more $$$, I'm going to have to spend it to get it right. I'm taking it back to the shop tomorrow and ask them what can be done and then pose the question, "What could we do if we try to make both the bottom and back as thin as possible? One guy said he has bench seats done so that they cut in a 1" recess where he sits so he doesn't go sliding all over the place. That would eliminate ANY change in the stitched cover. Maybe with that and removing 1" or foam everywhere, the 2" lowering could be achieved w/o any modification of the cover. NOTE: The big question is the back seat hinge which is a hole through the side of the bottom seat.
  7. Looks like I'm now dealing with TWO issues: 1) FOAM: too much installed by upholsterers 2) SEAT: Mine is solid and should be cutout. Looks like cutout is a lower seat. SIDE VIEW OF MY SEAT: CUTOUT: YES YOU ARE RIGHT. I've been looking over internet photos of 620 bench seats and is it possible the cutout seat is lower??? Check out the mustard pickup - that looks like way more than 5" steering wheel clearance. NOTE: The cab sheet metal did not change until 7507 so the cutout was used in the 74 and 75 year 1st style cab shells. So no floorboard change when seat changed to cutout. FOAM WORK: A lot of folks and I have thought reduce the amount of foam, etc. However there is a problem in seat back hinge hole in the side panel. If they cut a slit, they could sew it up, if they cut out a hole, well, that gets more problematic. BACK HINGE: You can see my hinge in one of my pics and if you look closely, my hinge is about midway up the side panel. The following pic shows the hinge high up on the side panel: (I can't find it!!!!!) LOWERING SEAT: Not rally feasible because the front bottom edge of seat is almost touching the tunnel, so even a 1in lower is not possible w/o modification of the front bottom edge. Doesn't the bottom seat angle (below) look way too steep? I wonder if this is a bench seat from a 520/1??? (The rail looks like it is where it should be so its angle is not in question)
  8. Please, could someone measure their steering wheel to seat clearance?
  9. FIVE INCHES! Buddies 240Z is CAVERNOUS - maybe 8-9 inches. Any 620 measurements out there?
  10. I was thinking the same thing the instant I read it! LOL DISTANCE from Steering Wheel Bottom to Seat is 5 inches - my Geo Metro is 7. HELP: Can any other 620 owners measure their distance and post?
  11. I'll get some tomorrow. I talked to the guy and asked if it would be feasible to instead of just make one cover for mine, make 10 of them - could you sell them at a substantial discount from just making one? He quoted me $375, but told me I had broken springs and the foam was bad (I knew this and expected the all) - he told me $500-550 and it came in at $500. I paid cash and no receipt and no tax so I saved $30.
  12. I'm not so sure I should pass judgement so soon. The condition of my seat was terrible, broken springs (I had to use a seat cushion to keep the springs from tearing up my shirts) and foam that was totally shot. I weigh just under 300# and clearly that old seat gave way to my shape. Given that starting point, sitting about 1in higher sounds like where the seat should be. Again, this is no worse than that Xtreme I sat in. Both the S10 and Rangers had virtually no steering wheel gap. In a couple weeks, I may stop in at the shop and get their opinion on the seat height. Maybe they can put a stiff "foundation layer" and then thinner/stiffer foam. I would expect to pay since I don't think it is their fault. They did a really good looking job and if I was only 100# over weight (argh!) I think there would be no problem at all. Which is what I think will also happen - the seat will "wear in" like shoes do. (Don't underestimate the Terra Forming of 300# Meat Sack! LOL I had to make a few trips and when I would get in, I'd bounce up and down a few times to help it along and I think it has already relaxed a little. +++++++++++++++++++++++ Now I want to do more interior improvements: Now when I open the door, the black seat, door panel, and kick panel on the red sheet metal is very sharp. Makes me want to try to do something about the dash which has full transverse cracks every 4-6 inches. The other cosmetic issue is that I have bare metal floors since when it rains water is coming in somewhere. Any kind of carpet or mat would just rust out the floor boards.
  13. They did a beautiful job but now, I don't fit in my truck! I'm at last 1" higher and my Wink mirror obstructs my view, and the back cushion is thicker so there is no steering wheel clearance - I basically cannot handle the wheel below the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. This really sucks when taking advantage of the super small turning radius. The shifter is now beside my leg - have to noticeably reach down for it. _______________ For starters now I have to remove the Wink and drill the holes in the doors to install my new door mirrors and put the rearview back. I just looked to see what is involved in lowering seat. The rails are already laying on the floorboard in the rear. I could slide the rails back and lower the front which would tilt the entire seat forward and it would also allow the seat to "slide back" more. I don't have the sensation of "leaning forward" as things are, but I don't know what 1in at the front would do. Also need to see if the lowering could be done in the seat brackets rather than floor board mods. DO NOT want to hack the floor boards. _______________ But not having the sight of that Rat's Nest of a seat is Exhilarating when I open the door and gaze upon it (LOL)
  14. I've been putting this off for too long. Mine does not have a bumper and I carry the spare tire underneath. Looking for specific make/model that bolts to frame and clears everything.
  15. I've changed this title taking Wheel Cylinder out of it BECAUSE if a WC was sticking, the truck would be pulling and pulling more after the clunk. This is what happens: Getting some word meanings down: Applying Force to pedal produces Braking. More Force, More Braking. This is what happens: Everything seems to work just fine, during Braking truck doesn't pull to the side - it goes straight. Over time, seems like less Braking per pedal Force. Then, when applying a relatively high pedal Force, there is a loud clunk, and Braking increases substantially. From then on it's like I have a more powerful brake booster getting more Braking for a given Force. Over time, seems like less Braking per pedal Force. etc., etc. I originally thought it was a worn solid inner control arm bushings shifting - especially since at least one did not want to take grease (indicating it was perhaps worn and sloppy and full of rust/metal debris.) But then it became clear Braking was increasing. EDIT NOTE: It could be a silent hydraulic issue but the instant change in vehicle breaking could cause the worn ICAB to shift and clunk. Sticking with hydraulic causes: *) NOT Wheel Cylinder since is symmetric issue *) Master Cylinder? *) Brake Booster? *) NOT Proportioning Valve since there isn't one. Thanks Tom
  16. Well yes it could be the fast idle cam. But again, the hotter it gets in the summer the lower the fast idle becomes to the point engine will stall. Then on really cold winter days, the fast idle is way to high for cold oil/engine. If I remember correctly, I had a choice of bimetals to install in the heated choke cover. I have a fixed unit from late model 340 where I know the correct bimetal/cap combination is used. I'm going to try that. I was thinking if it was indeed too much fast idle compensation, I could bend arm to even eliminate the 1st and tallest step. I'm in the midst of getting maintenance done for winter.
  17. Chrysler had those wells in the manifolds that housed the bimetal spring. There was a rod that went to the choke shaft arm. Simple system. Studebaker had various tubing layouts that were inserted into the exhaust port that ran under the intake manifold. (Carters and Strombergs were used in the 50's and 60's) One end of the tube went to the top of the air horn to obtain air after the air cleaner, the other went to a fitting on the choke cap. The choke chamber had an internet port to manifold vacuum to draw in the hot air. The more I think about this, the more I think there may be a long forgotten consensus among mechanic friends that those electric chokes never worked right. But it is all a dense fog nowadays. I'm going to have to "break open" one of those 340 sealed chokes... ... you know, the issue isn't with the choke since it always starts the engine, it could be there is "too much" fast idle cam. I wonder what would happen if I adjusted the FI cam so that the next to the highest step was the starting step thereby reducing the range of the FI???
  18. So the Datsun choke cal was off in the "opposite direction" of American Iron? NOTE: Maybe my problem is that I've never dealt with American electric chokes - only the ones that used manifold vacuum to bring hot manifold air into the choke spring chamber. I could see transitioning from that "wimpy" system which always never produced enough correction, to the electric which was like a blast furnace and produced too much correction. Hey wait a minute, I had a 1972 510 and a 1974 (or 76?) 4-dr 1400 B210 and don't recall this problem. I drove them until 1983 when I moved from PA to FL. My dad drove the B210 until the frame broke in half from rust. We talked a lot and he never mentioned any problems with the car. I need to go through my other 340 parts carbs and see what springs I have but they are buried on a work bench and will take some time to unearth them...
  19. Since I might have the wrong choke spring in my carb, the question is, "Does anyone else have this problem - needing more choke in the summer / less in the winter?"
  20. I've been through everything - I even bushed the throttle plate shaft on the DCH340. (It has an electric heated choke with the proper inner fender relay that detects alternator charge to determine engine running. As far as centrifugal and vacuum advance, the engine has too much power and fuel economy for either to be a glaring issue - I get over 20 mpg around town and it's not even a full mile to town - 1/2 my runs the engine doesn't get fully warmed up. There is one glaring omission regarding the 620 (and not the 52x trucks), the BCDD. It was working OK but the last time I had the carb off, there is something wonky with it. (a quick "test" is to take the plug out and push on the adjusting screw, it should make the engine speed up.) RE: Timing - I keep the timing as far advanced as the fuel will allow.
  21. EDIT: Here is a better way to understand what is going on: Choke temperature correction has always been approximate and minimal. When you adjust a choke in hot weather, it's because you have too much choke. When you adjust a choke in cold weather, it's because you don't have enough choke. My situation is the opposite: too much temp correction resulting in too much choke in winter and not enough in summer. END-EDIT I know exactly what you are saying. What I'm saying is that what I have going on is something out of said envelope. I suspect wrong bimetal or heating element. As I said, carb was a basket case and frankly I don't know if the black choke cap was included or the proper one since I don't think there is a FSM test for it or a means of IDing it. .... or is there?
  22. Has anyone encountered this problem? I'm near Pittsburgh and yearly temps range conservatively from the "teens" to the 90's. The carb is a basket case: parts were "like new" and there was a metal tag with "74 MT" stamped on it. I checked all the jets and bleeds and they were correct. I also accumulated 2 other 340 carbs. I can't determine if I have the right electric heater choke cap. If I adjust my choke for summer, when winter comes, the choke is too rich and the fast idle is too high. If I adjust my choke for winter, when summer comes, the choke is too lean and the fast idle is too low - engine will actually "flame out" in 90* weather due to too low a fast idle. The reason for this is the bimetal spring is moving too much from its Start (ambient temp) to Run (heated temp.) SOLUTION: (maybe): Reduce the bimetal spring movement: 1) Reduce electric heater current: insert series resistor - this could also be a power rated rheostat that would be adjustable. 2) Cool the choke housing: introduce ambient air venting of the choke chamber. Obvious way would be to drill hole(s) in the plastic choke cover. 3) Find different bimetal - one with fewer tuns.
  23. Someone should make the faceplates so other tachs could be used. As a start, the tack could be photographed, scaled, and then printed with photo stable ink on premium photo or card stock. A professional print shop or sign shop might be able to make a high quality, more durable (UV) one. Then find a tach with a needle that is similar, install the faceplate, and no one would know the better.
  24. MORE MISTAKES ON MY PART > 620 wheel widths are 4.0" and 4.5", early and late, changeover date: Feb. 1973 https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/pickup-1972-1979/axle/front-drum-road-wheel This begs the question: If only the 620 had the "3-ball" hub cap clips, where did the 5.0" slotted wheel w/"3-ball" come from? I discovered this when researching part numbers to determine if the bed part numbers were unchanged for the 620 run. They change. In fact there is a change in 1978.
  25. I can see there being changes with the redesign of the brakes to disc, however the more negative offset is in the direction of more interference with the calipers unless the hub flanges were moved outboard. Now while all that could be true, If nothing was changed in the rear, the 5.0 rims result in less clearance with the bed wheel well which is unexpected (unless they changed the distance between the axle flanges.) All confusing.
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