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Cardinal Grammeter

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Everything posted by Cardinal Grammeter

  1. If they want to increase taxes, then they should increase our freedoms since that's what this country is all about, right? Folks in France didn't like what was being done with their tax money:
  2. Yeah, I have a $500,000 capital loss carryover am broke and living on Social Security in a house rats wouldn't live in. When I die, that loss evaporates and the IRS makes out. I have to laugh, the IRS screwed me when I started my job at P&W and then when I lost my job. I have a friend that worked for the SBA and was threatened by another gov employee from the GAO to give his buddy a loan. There were guys in the SBA approving loans for a couple sacks of grass seed. I don't mind paying taxes but not to these thieving sweaty donkey ball sucking fucktards. Vents closed.... LOL
  3. Yes, but do we know for sure? I need to buy something, I have new seat and new exhaust and that damn vise grip is annoying. BTW, one parts guy wanted $170 for a used one. WTF
  4. Joe should have but don't you see the irony and mean spiritedness of him having him pay over a million in back taxes when he can only keep 10% of his earnings? Here the history of the top bracket extortion: Eisenhower: 3% poor people, 91% rich people (he actually reduced it from 94%).
  5. yes, taxes have to be paid, and when The Income Tax was established, it was on actual "income" such as dividends and interest. Then it was perverted to Wages. and then it became a Crime Against Humanity when the top rate was 90%. (now who was greedy then?) In 1949 the top Income tax rate was 90% (earnings over $150k) and the boxer Joe Louis owed the government over $1 million in back taxes and penalties. So at the 90% rate, he would have to earn 10x what he owed, just to be able to clear after taxes the amount owed. Joe Louis to IRS, "Yessum massar, I go fetch 'em yo slippers..." Then it was further perverted to tax Social Security even though insurance payoffs are not taxed. Do I hear "Heads on pikes" anyone? School tax is another one, everyone pays the same if they have zero of 16 kids.
  6. I realize this is a moot point but it still irritates me that people don't realize this. Taxwise we are treated as true slaves: One aspect of being a slave is he doesn't get paid for his work. If someone does get paid for their work, it is a barter and there is no profit or income. IRS disagrees saying it is 100% profit/income, therefore, taxwise, we are treated as slaves.
  7. Actually, they were working on the Y and tried to expand the ends to fit the larger flange openings and the tubing split. So they lost about 1' of pipe. (I only supplied and 8' and 5' which should have been about 2' extra. I think the straight routing decision was based on getting the job done with what was available - which I agree with.) Mike, you are absolutely correct It's amazing how bad my memory is getting. I had found an original head pipe that I was considering buying and the Y was a stamped piece. Here are pics. (I wonder if the flared ends are what hold the flange on? EDIT: actually looking closely at the flange pic again, it looks like those flared ends appear to be short rings - you can see the sharp shadow at the aft edge - I have no idea how they manufactured this.) EDIT 2: Further thoughts on manufacturing and the "rings." It would be that there are not in fact rings, but a sharp stamped bend in the Y-form. The flange would slide over the tube ends and rest of the sharp 90* corner that looks like the "end" of the "rings" in the pic. Then the ends of the tube would be flared to capture the flange. When made, it would seal. It would not leak after a while because it would begin to rust and the rust scale would make the interference fit even tighter. Still, how would you stamp metal to get 2 tube ends? Perhaps the tubes were covered with the stamped sheet that is so apparent in the pic of the entire pipe. Would be interesting to see a "autopsy" of one that rotted out.
  8. But we ARE SLAVES We barter a portion of our life for money. But the IRS says, "No, that is not a barter." and "...that money you get paid is income just like interest or a dividend." So basically, the wage is not payment for your service since your service is "for free" and your wage is pure income profit. The original income tax was for investments, interest, dividends and such. And now it has become a juggernaut. NOTE: Trump was going to change cost basis of cap gains with an adjustment for the cost of money. If you sold your house you bot 40 years ago, the profit calculation would be made all in 2021 dollars.
  9. Still not seeing an answer here. Need to do something soon with my vise grips hanging on the cable stub under the dash.... I would have thought the RH and LH drive versions would have been mirror images of each other which means the cable would be the same for both.
  10. Better maintain the "timeline" here are some laying on grass half-ass pics. Regarding the saddle clamps, I told them to "not tighten so much that they crush the pipes" so they decided to really go not tight at all while putting a couple spot welds on the pipe and sealant. The one pic looks like one of those spot welds broke. I like to do saddle clamps this way: Tighten until I cannot bull twist the muffler and then another 1/2 turn on the nut. Then went under the carrier bearing cross member instead of above, I don't see any real down side on that since I'm not rock climbing (LOL). - and it does make for a nice straight length which is always a bonus. Any those jerk wads at other muffler shops saying "...stainless wrinkles when you bend it..." are brain dead - they don't understand why it bends and how diameter and wall thickness effect that. In fact, I might take it back to the local guy who said it won't bend and show him.
  11. Yeah, My Bad - should have taken pics when they put it on the lift to show me. I'll edit this reply with pics - the y-pipe will be the hardest to show - it really is tight up in there with the frame, torsion bar, and engine. (In fact, with this new routing, getting the Bolt Buster on the middle stud nut will be a BEE-ATCH.)
  12. POST MORTEM: Wonder if this was the Original header pipe?
  13. SCOREEEEEEE Truck is done, they had enough pipe made the exhaust pipe in 2 pieces w/slip joint in center. Cost was $432 for the labor. Parts was $134 tube, 35 flange, 32 clamps so about $200 for just over $600 for the job. I had told them to do what they could to keep exhaust away from transmission which I have to upgrade to the 5-spd and they went with my thought of going between the frame and torsion bar rather than between the bar and trans. Truck is NINJA SILENT! Found myself driving 70 mph home cuz I couldn't hear the engine. EXACTLY what I wanted. Welds look decent with no obvious blue overheating. (I doubt if they back purged or fluxed but I just don't care at this point.) ______________ Next project choices: *) Install 5-spd (BONUS: MAKES MORE ROOM so High on the Leader Board) *) Weld A-pillar and install new windshield rubber - mine is as hard as a rock on the outside and has split apart at corners due to shrinkage (inside is still flexible rubber.)
  14. Just about every latch for sale appears to be RH drive. Is it possible to make a LH release assembly from old LH and new RH? Are the cable lengths the same? RH vs LH drive
  15. That exhaust pipe while not having large angle bends, has a bunch of little ones. I don't know how they bend up a long pipe with a bunch of bends in it. If you start at one end, you get to a bend where the free end hits the car - so what do you do? maybe it's not unlike a good bulldozer operator must have a "eye for grade" otherwise he can't do anything. maybe you start with the up-bend and then mark the bend centers down the straight pipe - and then incrementally bend each until pipe fits???? I'm just guessing! I have no idea how they do it. _____________ Buddy had some SS exhaust weld repairs done that went sideways, but they corrected everything and stuck to the quoted price. At this point I DON'T CARE - as long as it's done today, I'll be happy. My buddy can bend the tailpipe if I want. FYI, I actually got DR. to sign off on a CO blood test I took after a 30 min trip each way - I was sure I was suffering from exposure driving truck all over the place. CO in blood has a 4 hr half life so I timed the test for what should be an exposure high point. Very curious to see results.
  16. It just doesn't stop.... Shop called and said they don't have enough pipe. I measured everything and the 8' and 5' should have done it. So I told them finish to the muffler and I'll pay and pick up - I'll order pipe and bring back or have buddy bend. Just saw today the Barnhart 500,000# OTR payload Transport System leave Elliott Co., Jeannette, PA
  17. No, just got the idea. I'm 69 and don't do junk yards anymore. However, I'm sure there is something out there that could be trimmed to fit. The wheel opening shape might be the most critical. I would think most trucks are bigger so narrowing would probably be done in any case. So getting the right wheel opening, narrowing it, and DONE. maybe (!) I'd start with S10's and Rangers. There's that Subaru that has the tiny pickup bed but they are so rare, probably hard to find. I was even thinking of a "trailer fender" that would mount to the backing plate of axle tube that would move with the tire - that would work also. And I'll bet there are universal trailer fenders. Even a big motorcycle fender. If one had an English wheel, they could roll one. It's a shame that rear wheel spray soaks the entire side of the bed and ends. They went so far to do the fronts, but it seems rears were not addressed in many older pickups.
  18. Actually there is a nifty plastic label tag specifically made to slip over pipe - and it's reusable. But that wasn't the problem, to protect the ends, they wrapped a couple yards of 2" clear packing tape over the ends. Impossible to peel off. Will have to use heat gun and scrape off then solvent the adhesive residue. Don't want to potentially add to weld contamination.
  19. I could, I can, and I don't. But I'm 69 and lazy af nowadays. So I did counter bores: Now you're gonna totally laugh at me: What type of washers under the brass nuts? Since the new flange has a 10mm hole & the stud is 8mm, I figure a washer is in order. (The OE washer appears to have been a flat washer with a very small OD so it could have been a lock washer that rusted flat - it's so rusted should not be used but it does account for 2mm of stack height. ....checking parts manual... 08915-13810 -> 08915-1381A (!) Check it Out, a split ring lock washer as I suspected! EZ PZ All right then, those lock washers will fit perfectly in the counter bore. TOTALLY DONE AND READY FOR SHOP TRIP NEXT WEDNESDAY. (well almost, have to peel the clear shipping tape off the tubes which actually is a PITA - 10 min w/o heat gun = TOTAL WASTE OF TIME)
  20. I think the State of California is by its existence a monopoly of the prime west coast real estate and should be broken up by the Fed. What if CA was ALL of the west coast? I wonder what kind of shenanigans would go one. In fact, that would be a great premise for a novel.
  21. I don't want to spend at least $100 at the garage to change studs to stainless when I have good studs to begin with. I can spot face myself for free and most likely get flange milled for free too. Hard to complain about the price. (I could even mill on my 9" SB lathe for which I have the milling tooling but that would take me a day to do - so that's not happening.) ....today, I feel like loafing. 620 still on stands, should spray down with CRC Marine Corrosion Protection and also swap out the rear drums (long story.)
  22. LOL, this just never stops..... ONE FINAL ISSUE: The Stainless Flange: Thicker and Larger Holes THICKER: 3/8 vs 1/4 The new 304 flange is a fat 3/8" however, the studs are just long enough to engage the nuts with the thin, OEM flange - in fact, the ends of the studs are machined back so that while a very tall nut, the thread engagement is less. If I lose 1/8" of thread engagement, the resulting engagement will be about 1/2 of what it was. Datsun made a special effort that stud threads did NOT extend beyond the nuts. And so i was able to get them off w/o having to deal with rusted end threads. HOLES: 10mm vs 8mm The SS flange has 10mm holes while the studs are M8. The thin OE lock washers have an OD of about 10mm - they won't work with the 10mm holes. Some kind of washer will be required further decreasing thread engagement. SOLUTIONS: 1) Spot face stud holes 1/8" deep (I actually have the correct s/f drill) 2) Get flange milled down to 1/4" (thinner flange easier weld - reduced thick to thin welding) 3) Use the OE steel flange 4) Replace with longer studs (I won't do that - I assume the shop can replace the studs if the header pipe is off and they have good access to the OE studs. I would let them borrow my Bolt Buster if they don't have one. My thoughts: BEST CHOICE: is 2) since welding .065 tube to a thicker 3/8" flange has Thick to Thin issues. However, I'm not sure if a thin flange might risk cracking welds when bolted down. EASIEST CHOICE: Spot Facing
  23. FINALLY successfully removed the brass nuts and put back with lots of Saf-T-Eze Nickel Anti-Seize (about 1/2 the price of Never Seez and Permatex and clearly a different formulation.) I bot the 1800w Bolt Buster and was shocked that induction heated the brass nuts up just like a torch. (Those induction cooktops say you have to have magnetic steel to use them. So I don't understand that.) I swear these nuts may have been removed for the first time. They were definitely OE and VERY tall with 2x the thread engagement of a metric nut. AND the tiny, thin lock washers under the nuts were there too. Those would have been too easy to not notice them and lose them. The lowest nut was a bitch maneuvering the BB - I had to use the one "wind your own" coil lead that was in the kit. No other way to do it with the std coil. Clearly the extended coil kit is a necessity. I believe they are selling them for $60 from China - 2x here. BB is a monster, I swear I could have melted them off with it. Got to a bright orange - really getting close to brass meting, but not really, I could look at the "orange" and it is near impossible to braze w/o goggles. I have everything including 304 clamps. WELDS THAT DON'T RUST: This separates the men from the boys. I also learned stainless forms a Cr06 (hexavalent chrome oxide) on the surface which is what keeps it from rusting. If the weld is done without contamination (very clean), the Cr06 layer "spreads" over the weld taking 24-48 hours to do so. If it fails to cover the weld, the weld rusts. Evidently "back purging" is related to non-rusting welds. One welder used a mixture of Solar Flux and HEET, made a paste, coated the back sides and waited for it to dry being sure none was on the exterior surface being welded. When it comes to corrosion resistant welds, the information is sketchy at best - people are more concerned about cracking. I'd hate to ask a shop if they know how to weld stainless so the welds don't rust. However, I loosened the exhaust pipe manifold stud nuts so they owe me! Cr06 is nasty stuff and unfortunately is in the welding fumes, so ventilation is absolutely imperative welding stainless.
  24. That latter 620's made liners for the front wheels, but nothing for the rears. Rear spray rots out the bed sides. Something like this from Husky: https://www.huskyliners.com/featured-product/79151/wheel-well-liner-rear-wheel-well-guards?gclid=Cj0KCQjw18WKBhCUARIsAFiW7JyxXnnjvJZDXTna5MBBTaVF2G_365txa5lopZRe5iYoqnl9ng3j4DYaArraEALw_wcB
  25. Time Left: 13 days and 8 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    The fan diameter is 35cm, so the opening should be at least 37cm NOTE there is a shroud with an opening of 35cm which probably is used with a 33cm L16 fan. Condition should be used. Shabby condition preferred since for work truck.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Jeannette, Pennsylvania - US

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