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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. I don't drive my baby through mud. It has been there for 4 yrs and no problems yet. You can also do something like this, just as long as the drain water is pouring down between the fender and the body.
  2. This is not the best pic but I funneled those 1.5" drainage holes down to 1/2" copper pipe and have it exit down the front of the foot well. No more rusty fenders for me.
  3. And if you are working by yourself, Speed Bleeders are a Godsend, http://speedbleeder.com/
  4. Your city is trying to protect other residents from being exposed to a view they may not like? Man, it's a good thing there aren't any real problems that need solving, I guess your city workers are so efficient that all they have left are the make work projects.
  5. Good eye, what if the bmw part is in a Ratsun?
  6. I just got the block back from the machine shop so got a coat of paint on before the rust could start again.
  7. Noll, you might be interested in a brake package I just put on kijiji, https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/mississauga-peel-region/datsun-240z-280z-upgrade-brake-package/1483141128
  8. I forgot to mention, the whole electric assist system added 14lbs to the car, put that up against a hydraulic system.
  9. Always a treat when everything comes back from the platers, mostly 510 and KA24 parts as well as a few 240z pieces thrown in at the last minute.
  10. There is also Spray Chrome, there are a number of shops popping up offering this finish, the surface actually has silver deposited on it then sealed with clear coat, they can do just about any surface or material, no heat, no really toxic chemicals. https://angelgilding.com/about-spray-chrome
  11. grannyknot

    Rebuild begins!

    That all sounds good too, but brake cleaning fluids are specialized for certain kinds of contaminants, they don't get everything. That's why a good detergent helps get other kinds of dirt off. Methyl Hydrate (wood alcohol) is also a good final wipe cleaner, it's inexpensive and doesn't shrink your brain every time you get a whiff of it. 15w40 works fine as assembly lube as long as you're going to start that engine fairly soon after putting it all back together, all engine oils are made to drip off and get back to the pan, assembly lube is the opposite, stays put. Redline makes an as
  12. Sounds like you're in my backyard, I'm halfway between Newmarket and Orangeville. Beautiful truck, it's always nice to be able to restore your ride while also being able to drive it, it is a great colour, kind of like the paint they used on machinery in the 60's.
  13. grannyknot

    Rebuild begins!

    I don't mean to assume how experienced you are but just make sure the block and head are spotlessly clean, hot soapy water, long gun bore brushes, compressed air. When your done white cotton rags should come away just as clean as before you used them. The same thing for the pistons, rods and crank then lightly oil everything. Assembling the engine is the most enjoyable part for me.
  14. It is passive, I'm pretty sure all electrical assist steering is otherwise that could get dangerous quickly. I picked my unit from an Equinox at the wreckers, I think I have about $140 in the whole unit and that includes the control box from Bruno, he sells them on ebay for $40
  15. grannyknot

    ka24de info

    Yeah, not great but there doesn't seem to be much out there, I'll keep digging too. You mention above that you have the pinout diagram, any chance you could share it? It would be nice to have as much info as possible concentrated in this one thread. Thanks
  16. Hey I love the engine bay just the way it is, give it a couple shots of clear coat and stand back.
  17. I did something very similar in my 240z a number of yrs ago, nothing but good things to say about it, parking lots and tight traffic are a breeze and I turn the dial down for the highway. There are a number of write ups on the conversion.
  18. grannyknot

    ka24de info

    I don't have a colour diagram but do have this one,
  19. That's exactly what I did this morning, let it soak for a few minutes and they came off easily. 69 only? I wonder how they ended up the parts boxes for a 73, at any rate I'll restore them and get them out there for someone else's project, I hoard way too much stuff as it is. Thanks for the answers Gents.
  20. I was digging through the last box of parts that came with the 510 and I have come across some things that I can't identify, not even sure if they are 510 parts or just got thrown in the box, hoping you guys can help. The last pic are the marker lamps, how do you get into these little buggars to change the bulb? Thanks
  21. grannyknot

    ka24de info

    Well looking at the coil end of the harness there is a one wire plug 16 ga, solid black, there is a 2 wire plug , both 16 ga, one is green/black stripe, the other is black/red stripe. The third plug is made up of 3 wires, one is 14 ga, green/black stripe, second is a 16 ga white wire and third is a 16 ga black with silver hatch marks.
  22. grannyknot

    ka24de info

    Are you talking about the KA24DE wiring harness? Because I have mine laid out on the floor right now and I can trace any wire for you if that helps.
  23. It's a good thing you got all those branches out of the way, don't want to scratch the paint.
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