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Posts posted by grannyknot

  1. The B pillar on a coupe is about 6" farther back than it is for a 4dr and as I was laying the rocker up against the car for measurement I noticed it and thought I had screwed up some how.  But as I said, I'm not using that part of the rocker anyway.

    The only flaw I have noticed so far is the A pillar panel doesn't really fit the front of the rocker, it should fit like a glove over the front curve but I will have to cut it in half and weld in a a small section in.

    It's not really a big deal as every aftermarket panel needs some massaging and all of the modified area of the A pillar panel will be covered by the lower rear corner of the front fender.

  2. On 2/1/2021 at 5:43 PM, yenpit said:

    I do not know why there would be a different OEM part #............??

    Here is the reason, the two rockers are different, the 4 dr rocker has a stamped in recess where the base of the B pillar attaches, so the 4 dr rocker will work on a coupe but that recess will be visible unless you lay a piece of 20 ga sheet metal in the recess, weld it in and give it a skim of filler.

    Luckily it won't affect me as I'm only using the bottom of the rocker.

    The recess is hard to see so I ran a marker down the edge of both sides.


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  3. Maybe you should look at it another way, you don't get something for nothing.  Potential energy in equals potential power out minus all the inefficiencies, heat, wear and probably a few others.  So sure it takes more gas to make more power but the bigger the engine the less efficient it becomes and no two engines are created equal.

    A theoretically perfect engine will produce X amount of power whilst consuming Y amount of fuel, scale up the engine by 5 times and it would produce 5 times the power at the cost of 5 times the fuel but in the real world it is all about efficiency.


    Just off the top of my head I think an average internal combustion engine is only about 20% efficient so there's lots of room for improvement and the difference between any 2 engines is within that 80% waste.

    • Like 2
  4. After replacing the bearings and seals in the LSD R160 Diff I adjusted it to the best of my ability then took it up a Diff shop I have used before for them to do the pre-load and backlash adjustments. They got the wipe pattern looking great.


    I'm not sure why the floor pan rails aren't produced by anyone yet, they take a lot of abuse.  Luckily mine were in pretty good shape with just some rust at the tail end.  I got the end pieces finished today and welded up.



  5. The brake & gas lines are done, I widened the exhaust pipe hole in the rear cross member and the Ermish Racing exhaust pipes arrived as well as the DBX Flowmaster muffler.  I bought the DBX separately because I've used them before and I think they have richer sound than the Super HP that Ermish sells.

    I was ordering a few more rubber parts from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-510-parts.html

    that I missed on my first order and notice the Roll Center Adjusters/ Bump Steer Spacers they sell, they're $35 per set!

    That's a 1/3rd the price of everyone else, I ordered a set and they are quality pieces, 10.9 grade bolts and they fit perfectly.


    So there is no more avoiding it, time to put the mask and ear protection on and start making a mess.




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  6. 4 hours ago, Noll said:

    Regarding rotisserie stuff, obvs the current new lockdown makes driving down a bit of an issue, but I have a friend who might be heading your way soon for work stuff - if that ends up happening I'll shoot you a message as to when (if you don't mind him swinging by to get the rotisserie for me).

    No I don't mind at all.

  7. 6 hours ago, Noll said:

    Man, I cannot wait to get this thing on the road. It's going to look gooooooooood.

    It is, starting to look like a car again.  That style of rear spoiler comes down and touches the paint every time you close the hatch and will eventually scuff the paint right off.  3M makes a good protective clear film that is hardly noticeable, https://www.amazon.ca/Clear-Paint-Protection-Vinyl-Film/dp/B073X7WF5J/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=31R0IRCEN6OZV&dchild=1&keywords=3m+clear+protective+film&qid=1610540606&sprefix=3M+clear%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNEcwTks3UEVQTlNaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTM4MTc4M0tUQjFTNDY1WjE3USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzY2NjA4NkhNMkg2RlVZQ0xNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

    It's all really coming together!

    • Like 2
  8. I have accomplished a few things since the last post,  figured out the engine mount situation and built the trans mount, the driveline angles are done and the driveshaft shortened.  I haven't actually started the engine yet but I think everything is wired correctly with regards to the Can-am box, the Datsun wiring harness was taken apart, cleaned repaired where necessary and re-wrapped.


    The transmission console has been roughed in, installed the doors and panels and got the gaps looking pretty good except for the hood, need to spend more time on the D/S hood gap.

    Picked up some sticky looking Falkens 195/60/14, hope they are not too big.  I lengthened the brake pedal arm to gain some better leverage, I've never tried it before so interested to see what the results are, easy enough to re-instal the stock pedal if I need to.


    The car is up on the rotisserie now so everything just got a lot easier to access, the rear quarter panels arrived and are next on the list after I finish the new gas and brake lines, these guys, http://fedhillusa.com/

    make the best Cunifer gas & brake lines I've ever used, the lines are thick walled so really resist kinking. The gas lines need a tube bender but the brake lines can pretty much be bent by hand, a rub with 0000 steel wool brings them up to a warm shiny glow.





    • Like 1
  9. I built each bumper mount pivot bracket at 10", no good, way too bottom heavy, cut them up and settled at 5.5", now it's a bit top heavy  but still manageable.  I think if I had settled at 6.5" it would be a neutral spin.  I can raise the car up a few more inches to clear the roof if I need to but prefer to have  some weight resting on the rain gutter, it makes the whole rig steadier.


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  10. 5 hours ago, thisismatt said:

    Here is where I mounted mine with a completely stripped shell.  Sorry, I don't have better pictures of the front and I can't give you any exact numbers, since this was over 10 years ago and I no longer have it. I'm 99% sure this was still top heavy, but not too much for one person to handle. So, you would want to mount the axis a little higher to fix that.

    Thanks, that is considerably more than what I thought it would be, the measurement on the back appears to be about 9" from the top 2 bumper bolt holes to the center of the pivot tube. The front is harder to say but it looks like about 14", would you say that's about right?


    Also it looks as if the rain gutter of the roof just cleared the center tie holding the front and back pivots secure.

  11. I'm at the stage where I'm just about to get the 510 up on the rotisserie and wondering if someone knows where the center of gravity is on a 510, how many inches above the bumper mounting bracket holes?

    I'm guessing about 3-5", my rotisserie isn't adjustable so I have to make the mounting brace right the first time.



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  12. 5 hours ago, Icehouse said:

    Where is your keyed power hooked to the car?  I would unhook it where it hooks to the 510 harness and see if it shuts off when you do that.  If it does something in the original harness is keeping it on.  Great looking wiring!!! 


    Thanks for replying Jeff, the Key Pwr is the 12ga blue/red stripe which is taking power from the black/white wire that use to go to the old coil.  I just disconnected it and the ECCS and Fuel pump continue to run so I guess I should check the #46 & #109 ECU Bup next? 

    I just edited the 1st post, all 3 circuits come on with the ignition key, turn the key off and only the RUN circuit turns off, ECCS and Fuel pump remain on until the battery is disconnected.

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