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grannyknot

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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. Oh yeah, some of the factory welds are just brutal, they look like they were done without the gas turned on. Your right of course, I probably give the OEM panels too much credit for accuracy, but as I mentioned I'm just happy that I'm able to complain and that I have choices of makers of aftermarket panels, for some old cars there is just nothing available. What media did you use for that Z?
  2. You're most welcome, I knew they would be put to good use. They look great. Maybe when the world returns to normal and you're down this way for Zfest we can swap cars for a little drive.
  3. See if you can sell some other toys and get yourself $6,000 in hand, that might get you something without too much rust. At least I haven't seen much at 3k that was much better than a parts car.
  4. I'm using AlfaParts/Wolf Steel and KFV panels at the moment and I'm having to do major massaging on both of them. I thought the KFV panels would be a lot more accurate than they are mostly because they look so OEM but I assure you they are not. Parts like the A pillar panels should fit like a glove over the front of the rockers but they don't, same with the rear lower inner and outer quarter panels, they should nest into one another but that is not the case. It's best to think of them as patch panels and just cut out the bits you need and splice them in. I'm NOT saying they're
  5. Randy, thanks, I had forgotten all about Muscle Car GT. 👍
  6. Thanks, "510 rotisserie" that came back with few good images, I also picked up a couple on the 510 realm.
  7. I'm not having much luck with google so was wondering if any of you guys have a pic from your 510 build. My spare tire well looks like a pinata, so many little dents that it's hard to tell exactly what the original shape is as I'm tapping them all out. Just need a reference pic to go by. Thanks, Chris
  8. That's Tiffany, she's kind of perfect. https://www.bravoerotica.com/x-art/tiffany/seaside-fanyasy/
  9. The B pillar on a coupe is about 6" farther back than it is for a 4dr and as I was laying the rocker up against the car for measurement I noticed it and thought I had screwed up some how. But as I said, I'm not using that part of the rocker anyway. The only flaw I have noticed so far is the A pillar panel doesn't really fit the front of the rocker, it should fit like a glove over the front curve but I will have to cut it in half and weld in a a small section in. It's not really a big deal as every aftermarket panel needs some massaging and all of the modified area of the A pillar pa
  10. Here is the reason, the two rockers are different, the 4 dr rocker has a stamped in recess where the base of the B pillar attaches, so the 4 dr rocker will work on a coupe but that recess will be visible unless you lay a piece of 20 ga sheet metal in the recess, weld it in and give it a skim of filler. Luckily it won't affect me as I'm only using the bottom of the rocker. The recess is hard to see so I ran a marker down the edge of both sides.
  11. The panels arrived yesterday, excellent quality, very pleased.
  12. No Vin plate? Be careful, just make sure if you buy it that you will actually be able to register it in your name and don't just take the word of the seller.
  13. I remembered where I saw the car, https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-510-18/ still don't know what colour it is but have a few more pics to go by. Screen-Shot-2017-09-21-at-4.53.14-PM.webp
  14. I found this pic on the internet somewhere so I can't give any credits for it but I love this colour and want to paint my 510 this shade. It doesn't look like a stock colour to me but I'm looking for any info or opinions. Thanks,
  15. Maybe you should look at it another way, you don't get something for nothing. Potential energy in equals potential power out minus all the inefficiencies, heat, wear and probably a few others. So sure it takes more gas to make more power but the bigger the engine the less efficient it becomes and no two engines are created equal. A theoretically perfect engine will produce X amount of power whilst consuming Y amount of fuel, scale up the engine by 5 times and it would produce 5 times the power at the cost of 5 times the fuel but in the real world it is all about efficiency.
  16. Yeah, I saw that, BaT is the place he should be selling it, kijiji is populated with the cheapest low ballers there are.
  17. After replacing the bearings and seals in the LSD R160 Diff I adjusted it to the best of my ability then took it up a Diff shop I have used before for them to do the pre-load and backlash adjustments. They got the wipe pattern looking great. I'm not sure why the floor pan rails aren't produced by anyone yet, they take a lot of abuse. Luckily mine were in pretty good shape with just some rust at the tail end. I got the end pieces finished today and welded up.
  18. I reached them just now and he says they are for 2 door 510"s but they can also work for a 4 door.
  19. I'm just about to order rocker panels from KF Vintage and I guess they are really busy because I can't reach them by email or phone so I thought maybe one of you guys might know. Are the outer rocker panels the same for a 2 door as a 4 door? Thanks https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun510/complete-outer-rocker-right-side-datsun-510/
  20. The brake & gas lines are done, I widened the exhaust pipe hole in the rear cross member and the Ermish Racing exhaust pipes arrived as well as the DBX Flowmaster muffler. I bought the DBX separately because I've used them before and I think they have richer sound than the Super HP that Ermish sells. I was ordering a few more rubber parts from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-510-parts.html that I missed on my first order and notice the Roll Center Adjusters/ Bump Steer Spacers they sell, they're $35 per set! That's a 1/3rd the price of everyone else, I ordered a set
  21. It is, starting to look like a car again. That style of rear spoiler comes down and touches the paint every time you close the hatch and will eventually scuff the paint right off. 3M makes a good protective clear film that is hardly noticeable, https://www.amazon.ca/Clear-Paint-Protection-Vinyl-Film/dp/B073X7WF5J/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=31R0IRCEN6OZV&dchild=1&keywords=3m+clear+protective+film&qid=1610540606&sprefix=3M+clear%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNEcwTks3UEVQTlNaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTM4MTc4M0tUQjFTNDY1WjE3USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkP
  22. I have accomplished a few things since the last post, figured out the engine mount situation and built the trans mount, the driveline angles are done and the driveshaft shortened. I haven't actually started the engine yet but I think everything is wired correctly with regards to the Can-am box, the Datsun wiring harness was taken apart, cleaned repaired where necessary and re-wrapped. The transmission console has been roughed in, installed the doors and panels and got the gaps looking pretty good except for the hood, need to spend more time on the D/S hood gap. Picked up som
  23. I built each bumper mount pivot bracket at 10", no good, way too bottom heavy, cut them up and settled at 5.5", now it's a bit top heavy but still manageable. I think if I had settled at 6.5" it would be a neutral spin. I can raise the car up a few more inches to clear the roof if I need to but prefer to have some weight resting on the rain gutter, it makes the whole rig steadier.
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