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rgjt405

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About rgjt405

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kelowna, BC
  • Cars
    1971 B110, 1200 2 door fastback
  • Interests
    old cars, photography
  • Occupation
    Retired
  1. Yes, there is. I now have the Toyota drop-out installed into the H165 housing. I still have to straighten the axle tubes after the spring perches have been welded. I fabricated an alignment mandrel that fits through the Toyota carrier bearings and extends to about 50 mm outside of each axle tube bearing. Send me a PM and I will send you some photos as I am not able to include any photos on this post. Cheers Roger
  2. Scott, I got another Toyota 6.7" 3rd member from the Island that has not been butchered up for a very decent price. I will use the welded one for mocking up on the H165 housing as it's a 10 bolt pattern instead of the 8 bolt H165. I also got the axle baffles from the Toyota housing, which will also fit inside the Datsun housing. I got all new brearings for the Toyota T-series from RockAuto together with the seals. I will be ordering the 4.300 R&P with the shims and solid collar from Weir Performance out of the US. These are custom gears, which are stronger than the Toyota TRD sets. There are also a lot of different types of LSD units available for the T-series (clutch, Torsen, 1, 1.5, and 2 way options). I just can't get that for the H165. Anyway, the overall H165 mounting wheel surface is only 10 mm wider on each side relative to the H145. This allows me to run the same rim width and offsets. I just need to change the location of the spring perches slightly and change the location of the brake line T-fitting and the emergency brake adapter. Also, the distance between the emergency brake cable levers between each drum is the same as the H145. Since the axle flange bolt spacing on the H165 is the same as the H145, I'm going to switch the backing plates and drums and stay with the H145 setup, which will not alter the brake bias between front and rear on the 1200. Going with larger drums on the H165 would change the car's braking behaviour with more braking coming from the rear, which is not good. Currently, my brake setup on the 1200 works very well without any brake fade or strange handling behaviour at high speed "panic" stops.
  3. I'm trying to keep the weight down as less weight is "free" HP by using the lighter H165. I thought of using the Toyota 7.5" and their 8" differentials, but again too heavy. The Datsun H190 would be better suited only if I could find the alloy carrier, but again, the rear end width is just too wide, and besides the gear ratio availability sucks as well as the cost for those units. I'm currently running the H145 with 4.625, which is too low with only a 4 speed. I really have to baby it to preserve its functionality as the engine that I'm currently running is a little beast (A14, 1494cc) with 14:1 CR, Slover Brother head, twin 44 Mikunis, Elgin camshaft, 78.5 mm Wiseco pistons, forged H-beam connecting rods, lightened valve train, chromemoly pushrods, mushroom lifters, lightened, swirled polished and tuliped stainless steel valves, 2.9 kg chromemoly flywheel, Tilton pressure plate and Tilton solid hub clutch disc, Megasquirt 2 ECU for full ignition control including knock sensor), large tube headers with a 3" collector. The engine pulls extremely hard. The 5-speeds are next to impossible to find these days as I'm currently running the 60-series 4 speed (again having to baby it because of the engine). Running 215x50x13 Kumho tires with medium compound. The engine pulls very hard all the way to 9K. I've tried the 4.11, which is not bad, but not great when running in 4th gear, especially with my cam, which starts to pull really hard at 4,800 rpm. That is why the 4.3 would be a good middle ground for me by using the Toyota 6.7 inch T-series with the H165 housing as the H165 housing is just slightly wider than the H145 and still quite light, which will still allow me to run my 8 to 9" wide rear rims without any clearance issues and without any narrowing. I was also considering the rear ends from the 2WD Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekicks (7.5 " R&P) as they have an excellent range of aftermarket LSD and gear ratios for very reasonable prices. Unfortunately, I would have to narrow the axles and housing tubes, re-lug for the 4x4.5" Datsun wheel pattern. Just too much money and the lack of good local machine shops in Kelowna that can tackle this sort of stuff. Anyway, I'm off to Pick and Pull tomorrow morning to grab the 6.7" pumpkin, and then order the 4.3 from www.weirperformance.com.
  4. Would you happen to have any leads for a F4W60 series for sale in British Columbia or any of the 5 speed versions? I'm off to Pick and Pull tomorrow to grab the Toyota T-series pumpkin before it disappears.
  5. But it has to be specifically for the A-series block coming off some 210's. My understanding is that all L-series 63 series don't have the correct bellhousing bolt locations as the L-series engines are all slanted to the passenger side.
  6. Wonderful, it's a match made in heaven. Thanks a whole bunch for taking the time to do this. Now, I need to head off to Pick and Pull in Kelowna to grab that T372 and order a set of 4.3 out of the US with the shims and crush sleeve (very reasonable price at ~320 US) for a new R&P. BTW, do you have any leads on a 60 or 63 series tranny for the A-series Datsun? 4 speed is preferred. Mine is starting to make some bearing noises on the input shaft. I really really need to get a spare as I've been pushing my luck. I suppose I could always cut the bellhousing off the A-series 60 tranny and an early L-series tranny and weld the front part of the A-series onto the back half of the L-series after some careful measurements. The input shafts are probably the same. If not, I could get a custom solid hub clutch disc to match the input shaft.
  7. What is the diameter of the axles in the '77 710? Hopefully 24 mm meaning that the Toyota T-series (Zenki) will fit in the H165 with only the change in the mounting holes from 8 to 10.
  8. The T-series (Zenki) is out of a 1985 Celica (still at Pick and Pull). According to the vehicle tag, is a T372 (6.7 inch, 3.58 ratio and no LSD). There are a lot of aftermarket gear ratios available at very reasonable prices for the T-series. I currently have the H165 complete rear axle assembly with the 3.889 that came out of a 1977 200SX. My question is what size are the axles in this H165 and the number of splines. I know that the T372 from the 1985 Celica uses 24 mm axles and 23 splines. I am hoping that the H165 that I have uses the same size axle and number of splines.
  9. Has anybody tried to use the Toyota T-Series pumpkin together with the H165 rear axle housing? If so, your comments would be greatly appreciated. The T-Series has a 6.7 inch diameter or 170 mm ring gear and 24 mm diameter axles (before 1986) and 25 mm axles (after 1986). I'm not sure what size axles the H165 uses for the Type1 ring and pinion (low cut gears) up to production date 7/79 that is out of a 1977 200SX. I've read that some Aussies have adapted the T-series to the H165 housing by drilling new mounting holes (10 instead of 8), but the axle size and number of splines is never really discussed in any detail. I'm wondering if the H165 axles will fit into the spider axle gears on the pre-1986 Toyota T-series? The reason I'm looking into this is because there is a much better selection of R&P gear ratios available for the Toyota T-series in comparison to the H165 Type 1. I currently have 3.889 in the H165, but I really need 4.3 or 4.6 in my car and have not been able to readily find any new or used R&P sets for those ratios that a suited for the H165 Type 1 carrier. Cheers Roger
  10. rgjt405

    What have you done to your 1200 lately

    I'm looking for either the A14 or A14 short block. Wondering if you have or know someone who does in the Okanagan Valley. Cheers Roger
  11. rgjt405

    1200 brake upgrade mklotz70

    Anyone know of how to effectively setup disc brakes for the rear on a Datsun 1200 using the 240SX rotors? One would think that a similar type bracket would be required for the rear axle hub after removing the rear backing cover plate. Any suggestions would be welcomed. BTW, the front disc bracket, calipers and rotors suggested on this forum works absolutely great. It makes a world of difference. :thumbup:
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