Fostin510

So, I finally got around to installing the replacement oil jet. It actually wasn't that difficult to install. It did take quite a few taps with a standard hammer. It's in there pretty snug and didn't mushroom the top. It's also straight, so it looks like mission accomplished. I thought for sure I'd have to beat the cheese out of it to get it to move, but not the case. I guess we'll see if it comes out during operation. To be continued... 🙂

It had chain marks that went about 1/3 of the way through it. Guess I could have left it alone, but life's a journey so I let you know if it was the correct call or not. Hell I was just amazed I actually got it out without breaking it. I suppose this is for those out there that have one that's damaged to the point of needing replacement. A have to order the replacement so I'll post an update after I install the new one. Question??? Thoughts on break in oil and procedure? Engine got bored 20 over, new pistons, rings, and bearings. crank was ground a bit as well. new oil pump, timing chain assembly. Head got a valve job, but nothing done to the cam.

Well I just couldn't let this one go. Just felt wrong to throw a bunch of new parts at this motor and not replace this little piece. Yes it could have ended in tears, but it turns out the oil jet can be replaced and I was successful without breaking it. In the "How to Rebuild your Datsun Engine" book, there's a picture and a brief description on how to go about it. The book says to use a pair of vice-grips and insert a screwdriver to pry it out, but the screwdriver kept slipping. Instead, I inserted a chisel and very carefully tapped it with a hammer (VERY GENTLY) above and below the oil jet on the jaws of the vice-grips. It tool about 15 minutes and I took measurements with a micrometer during the process to ensure it was actually moving and not the vice-grips slipping. Now to install it's replacement!

Here's what I'm thinking. You know that can of air we all use to clean out in between the the letters on the keyboards. If you turn the can upside down the air comes out at a temp below zero. Think that might work if directed at the oil jet long enough to shrink it a bit, enough to get it to break loose?

Interesting. I've researched and found one of the three complete engine gasket kits at Rock Auto includes that gasket. I'd say it's a about the same thickness as the oil tube pickup gasket but a different material. So just for fun if I wanted to replace the oil jet, is it easy to remove? Or am I playing with fire? I'm guessing it was pressed in?

Hi there boys and girls. Here's the questions of the day. L20b engine First; (Picture on the left) I removed this to get the engine rebuilt and it had a very thin gasket under it. Does it need a new one and where can I find one that thin? Second (Picture on the right) Is this worn out and can it be replaced? Thanks

outstanding, thanks.

I happened to come across an old thread talking about gear oil and which is the "best choice". After reading through it, I found a lot of people have different opinions on what to use and why. So my question is four parts. (1) what is a proper viscosity gear oil for everyday driving in So Cal and (2) can you use the same oil in a manual 4 speed and the rear diff and (3) GL4 or GL5 and (4) conventional or synthetic? Thanks 🙂

For now I'm going to grind a bit of material from the bell housing and see what develops.

True, thanks for the info. Amazing what you don't know until you ask.

I guess my question is; Is the bolt pattern the same on both flywheels (L18 and L20b) as it relates to securing the clutch plate to the flywheel. So if I wanted to buy a 200mm clutch and clutch plate and connect it to the L20b fly wheel I could? In looking at the depth of the scrapes inside the bell housing, they're about 1/16" deep and about 4 inches long.

So I'm understanding this. 200mm would be the diameter of the machined surface of the clutch plate, correct? Actually I don't remember if I had the engine plate installed. (background info) I just sent the engine out for rebuild and had the tranny on the bench to replace the slave cylinder and the clutch fork dust boot and noticed the scrap marks on the bell housing, which reminded me that I heard noises when rotating the engine. As for the clutch, it's 225mm. The clutch and clutch plate are new parts I got years ago, oddly enough there's no part numbers that I've found that bring me any positive search results. So if the 225mm rubs, then I'd need to purchase a 200mm clutch kit or like you said, grind a bit off the inside.

I have a 4 speed tranny in my 510. I connected it to the L20b engine. I was doing some testing and turning the engine over by hand. I noticed a scraping noise coming from the bell housing. I disconnected the two units and noticed a couple of scrape lines on the inside of the bell housing. Not sure if it was like that before I connected the two together and spun it or if was old damage from the previous owner. Thoughts?? Thanks

As I scan the internet, I've come across a bunch of replacement radiators for Datsun 510's, from companies I've never heard of. Question is; Who makes a good replacement radiator for the 510? Thanks

Anybody delt with this online store yet? I did and it looks as if it my be a total SCAM. Ordered a couple items to test it out. They charged my card and I did not get an order confirmation and I've sent two emails requesting an update on my order and all I get is radio silence. They're called "www.circuitsportsparts.com/"