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About millican

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Ocean Springs, MS
  • Cars
    1982 Datsun 720
  • Interests
    mead, cycling
  • Occupation
  1. Having the piston at TDC was enough to keep it from disappearing into the abyss. I used a valve-spring-compressor that turned out to be handy.
  2. Interesting. I thought you could get power steering or air-conditioning, but not both. Talk about luxury. Also, I just drove the pickup around the block. Your trick of taking the glow plugs all the way out and feeling for the air flow made all the difference. The old seals were quite visibly larger in diameter around the valve than the new ones. It wasn't quite as messy as I was expecting. None of the springs popped off back into the pockets of oil. Now to see if it uses less oil. Thanks again guys! I lurk here but rarely have anything useful to say.
  3. Thanks Wayno! That bottom pulley is the one I have.
  4. It just occurred to me to look at where the exhaust and air intake ports are on the other side of the head. Presumably, these correspond to the exhaust and intake valves.
  5. OK. I'm stumped on this. I want to find TDC for a cylinder, but don't have the timing marks on the pulley. So, I should be able to tell when it's near TDC by the movement of the valves' push rods. I just can't figure out which is the intake and which is the exhaust for a given cylinder. Sure wish my pulley looked like the one in the book.
  6. My wife offered to hold it for me. We'll see how that works. So far, I've loosened the glow plugs, thinking I'll want to turn the engine at some point, removed the valve cover, and cleaned a lot. Mostly cleaned. I didn't know the engine was blue. I'm about to see if I missed something in the manual I have on what to do next. I have guesses, but not a head gasket. If money were no object, something like this could be fun: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/3010/10002/-1?&mrkgcl=1239&mrkgadid=3338000898&adpos=1o3&creative=330726016703&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&jegspromo=nonbrand&gclid=CjwKCAjw7anqBRALEiwAgvGgm83wxtvXXlPrko0OCznorX9seek4oA4XIQFKRseUH_9Zr8H373bSrRoCyacQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds damn that long link. bad millenial web-scripting.
  7. Is that a trick question?
  8. Thanks for the help. I know it's not going to be a simple and quick process, but it needs to be done. That oil isn't cheap.
  9. No oil spots, just some rust flakes every now and then. There is smoke after adding oil.
  10. Thanks for the tips guys. I'll go ahead and order the seals and gaskets soon. Wayno, I'm guessing the seals are bad as it uses a lot of oil; a quart every 70 miles. It's also getting 40 mpg, presumably from burning oil with the fuel.
  11. I'm planning on replacing the valve stem seals in my 720. My manual has nothing on the subject. Supposedly, it's simpler than taking the engine apart; just "messy" as one on the nissandiesel forum mentioned. Searching for the procedure and what would need to be adjusted afterwards resulted in nothing other than a possible source to buy the seals. Is it pretty straight forward once one has removed the valve cover and is looking at the valves? I assume I'd need a new valve cover gasket, and I have the spring tool with the rotary knob on top.
  12. The body looks pretty good though. Unlike mine. I can see the exhaust under my foot. I get wet driving in the rain with the windows up. There is nothing holding the right side of the bench seat up. I tell my wife, "No passengers" when she uses it for work. Now I think I should check a few more places underneath.
  13. The SD22 is supposed to shut down if it gets low on oil. Did somebody bypass that switch?
  14. I couldn't troubleshoot this with the trailer light harness adapter attached. Once it was removed, it was easy to find that there is 12V going to the turn signal sockets with the the flasher, and that the socket wasn't getting a ground. It turned out to be inside the socket where the ground connects to the spring. It was corroded and getting a bad connection. The same was on both sockets, but the sockets for the tail/brake bulbs were fine. The wire on the turn signal sockets was just wrapped around the spring. I got the corrosion off the copper wrap of the ground with some flux (acid) and soldered it in place to the spring. This worked on one side, so it was repeated on the other. Now everything works again. I'll re-connect the trailer harness some other time. Thanks guys!
  15. Thanks. I should have mentioned that I've slid and jiggled the 4-way switch quite a bit. There is also a lot of corrosion in the wiring. I've been just replacing things. I'm also suspecting the adapter for connecting the 4-wire trailer lights to a 5-wired system. The fuses were checked with a multi-meter. Knowing that the wrong lights are flashing helps. I'll work on it some more tomorrow, starting with removing the trailer light adapter. Happy New Year all!
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