Jump to content

Lockleaf

Senior Member
  • Posts

    5,402
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by Lockleaf

  1. A friend of mine used to have a 260z and i always hated those inspection panels. I always thought if i had a Z i would want those welded to the hood and smoothed out. Then the hood would just have little wings. Car is a car again. Awesome.
  2. Today's Episode - "Damn. The Nuts." I finished up the braces and got to welding them in to the truck body. Tops got some smoothing to help water not run in behind the brace if the door is open, just like before. Only step left is a little grinding and drilling holes in the reinforcement plates for the hinge bolts. Since the all the real work is done, a little primer was put in place to protect everything. I will finish the last of the priming when I drill the holes. Since the panel was done too, that also got primed. Ok, now to attempt to install the door hinge. Wait it doesn't sit right? WTF? Ahhhhh......Damn.....The nuts.... On the bottom door brace, I failed to remove the old trapped nuts from the bracket. Now they are in the way and will be a massive bitch to remove. Idiot. I thought I was done with the body side and was on to the door.
  3. I often wear a leather "bolero" when grinding and welding. I just looked it up, I guess it is called a cape? but it has snaps where you can attach another piece so its a full jacket. Like this I wear it the most when grinding. I hate how when grinding I get spray into my inner elbows. Makes me itch badly. so I wear this thing. Still hot, but would be much worse if I were wearing a full jacket.
  4. Lets ignore my own personal ignorance on the flammability of fiberglass and go with - I should buy an actual welding blanket. Maybe I should just buy a big cow hide. Leather is pretty hard to burn, right? 😁 But yeah, one of those harbor freight blankets is exactly what I plan to pick up soon. One random note, those are very much NOT certified for plasma cutting. My friend cut one of these blankets right to pieces while plasma cutting 😄
  5. Swap cranks for front CAS drive, modify d21 front cover if necessary to make it seal, install d21 valve cover with half moon plug to seal the CAS hole in the head, that should be enough to seal the motor and place the CAS at the front instead of in the head. It can be done. It just isn't usually worth it.
  6. Snap a couple pics of the old pics and post them up. I really want to see this truck you speak of 😄 Thanks Beowolf! Building this thing is pushing my skills to their limits (and well beyond sometimes). I don't think I would do suicide doors again if I were to do something like this again. Good crud I can't believe how hard I've made this on myself 😄. I'm sorry to hear about your health issues, so I will do my best to keep you entertained! Thanks again for you kind words.
  7. While FWD to RWD conversions have been done before, its rarely worth the money and effort. Anything you get out of that engine is gravy, so just take that money and then decide how you want to proceed? options include buying a 1990 or newer d21, rebuilding what you have, building up a z22 or z24. Not many people are big fans of the Z series engines, but I like them. I like low end torque over high end hp. Z series only breathe to about 5K but compared to an L they will pull tree stumps up to about 4K. I have a z22 in my 510, and a couple spare z24s laying around.
  8. Big step, but not overly photographed. I started shaving the old doors on the front of the trailer. A little cutting and a little hammering, and the door became its own filler panel quite nicely. then I also had to put in a smaller fill panel where the door latch lived. I didn't get it hung quite square, but its thick metal so I just rolled with it. Welded and ground back. The left side you can see is overlapped and stitched. The panel above this door was already lapped, so I decided it would look best if I just continued that line all the way down. The top is fully welded shut and the upper half of the right side. The bottom half of the right side, the trailer is pretty rusted out, so I need to put in a 2 inch wide patch down that before finishing the door stitching. then hopefully just a bit of filler to smooth it over and done. while doing this, I lit the trailer on fire. There is tack in here, so I covered it with what I thought was a wool blanket, hoping that would be enough. It wasn't. It also wasn't wool. I lit this thing on fire pretty good. Luckily my intelligent wife bought some fire extinguishers recently and insisted one live in my shop. I put it on the bottom shelf of my cart. My friend yelled fire, and she yelled about the extinguisher, and I got it all put out. No real damage done beyond a little charring on the bottom side of two saddles. And my pride. I think its time to invest in a real fiberglass blanket. My wife had to completely clean and condition all 3 saddles that were in there, plus do a bunch of cleaning from the burned blanket and the extinguisher powder. She was not best pleased with me that day, but luckily her sister came over and helped her get all that cleaned up.
  9. Thanks keeper. Considering the work you do and the quality you produce, I really appreciate that. I got started on the hinge reinforcements over the weekend. I should have focused on my wife's horse trailer and getting that done.... I wanted to play with my toys instead of hers. Today's episode - "Goodness Gracious!" Matching the work I did on the other side, the first step was to install "load spreader" plates behind the truck skin. I started with a chunk of extra door skin. Then I bent the flanges along the edges with just a pair of pliers slowly folding everything over. Drill some plug weld holes and ground off paint. I use a 3/8 spot weld cutter to cut plug weld holes. They are a bit larger than I want, but the pnuematic hole punch is too small for me to be truly confident that I've gotten a solid weld, and the spot weld cutter just cuts nice even holes, better than using a drill bit. I marked where the holes would go inside the truck body, ground those clean, and then sprayed some cleaner in there to finish prepping for this panel. Then clamped the panel in and started filling my plugs. And then I lit my truck on fire. 🔥🔥🔥 Down in the rocker panel inside the rear body panel. I failed to consider that there was a large amount of built up garbage down there that absorbed the flammable cleaner I had used. Welding sparks lit that crap right up. Luckily I had a fire extinguisher close at hand. Ah my beloved Mtn Dew. Not just for quenching my thirst. It also protects my truck. I showed those pics to my wife who shook her head and said "really? you had time to stop and take pictures first?" 😄 It was just a wee fire. And not the first one building this truck. (sidenote, I also lit her horse trailer I am building on fire only like 2 days earlier. That one took a real fire extinguisher to save her saddles from my stupidity. I am taking this as a wakeup call that I am not paying enough attention to flammable things when welding, so I don't die.) Anywho, after retrieving a new beverage from the fridge, I continued working. Load spreader plate installed. These are the hinge reinforcement plates I cut out of unused parts of 720 doors. The hinges bolt to these and they reinforce the whole corner for the stresses of the hinge. With modifications, they will now live inside the truck doing the same basic job. This is the essentially finished top bolt point for the hinge. You can see the plug weld holes where it will attach to the load spreader plate on the left, and the holes where it will attach to the door jamb on the right. The actual bolt hole has yet to be drilled in this plate, though it is present in the door jamb. And this is the bottom one. I have not yet finished the third one, but once built and all three are installed there will only be a bit of finish work and the cab side of the suicide door hinges will be officially finished! Then on to the door. But first, back to the horse trailer.
  10. You can also try hosting the pics on Flickr or Instagram and posting over from those websites. See if that works. Perhaps also try a different browser on your Mac? What engine came in your truck? What info are you looking to know? Based on the service history you stated, your truck is going to be nicer than many of them on here. I've owned like 5 or 6 720s and still have a couple, but mostly mine are hammered garbage. I'm good at keeping them alive, but not so good at keeping them pretty.
  11. Lockleaf

    chevy 350 swap

    I would have it looked over by a custom shop who can identify any hackery in there for you. But finding a shop good enough can also be difficult. If you bought a stock one, there are plenty of engines out there. Just staying in the Nissan family the most common would be the SR20 or the KA24. Other options would include GM Ecotec (think turbo Solstice) or perhaps a small v6 would work nice. Something like a GM3800 supercharged would put down plenty of power to be fun, but require less hacking (or no) of the truck to make it fit. Each generation of Datsun truck gets a little bigger, with 620s offering a small king cab, and 720s offering a larger king cab as options if you happen to be a taller person who could use the space to make sure the truck is actually comfortable enough to be fun.
  12. What you guys said makes perfect sense, I'm just surprised a stock '86 rotor would clear anything smaller than a 15. I get what you mean about backside of wheel clearance. I had a TT 300z parts car sitting on some subaru rims when I was younger, and my parents decided to push it farther out of the way. The rim shaved the embossed NISSAN right off the front calipers..... 😄 I'm interested to see how you build the caliper brackets.
  13. What size rims are you guys running on this again? Are you going with some custom setup Wilwood hats and small diameter rotors for those calipers or how are you setting it up?
  14. I also got to put my lift to really good use recently. My friend gave me this Tahoe complete and running, but in exchange I had to pull the good trans out for him, and he gave me a trans lacking 3-4 gears. The tahoe will be the foundation of an upcoming project, and the trans will get rebuilt as a part of that whole shenanigan. I don't have a trans jack, but I picked up a harbor freight transmission jack adapter off local classifieds for cheap, so we got funky. Drilled some holes, installed some bolts and BAM, transmission hoist. The arm is very near flat when the trans is at installing height so there is very little arc when moving up or down a little at that level. This setup worked extremely well. A little bulky to work around sometimes, but solid and easy to deal with. Then we just lowered it down as far as we could and manhandled the trans off from there. And I had to build a custom socket. We needed like a 1/4 inch more depth than a standard socket offered. So here's that, because I want to.
  15. I've been spending what projecting time I had for the last two months on Project Apocalypse, AKA converting my wifes 4 horse trailer to a 3 horse trailer with a tack room. See "The Daily Routine" in non-datsun projects if you care. Very little has happened on this. But there has been some progress. For those who don't recall, I was working on the driver side rear hinge cover panel. I had gotten it to here. I've just about finished it up now. Got the side of the panel welded to the door jamb section and to the main panel body. I also welded in a lip around the door frame, just like on the other side, so it slip fits on the door jamb sections and holds it all together. (not shown) Loads of welding getting done. Also had to add a patch to the top right corner where you can see a square section is missing. There is an unfortunate amount of piecing together in this panel, but such it is. Welded and ground (mostly). Bottom left corner of the panel in the pic above shows a curved section missing. This curves around a necessary seat belt bolt point in the floor pan. The panel has to clear that so I can install the seatbelts. I approached this differently than the other side. This time, I cut a bowl shape out of the rounded corner of a scrap door body and used that to form this corner. Last time I tried to hammer form the corner. Installing the "bowl". You can see its orange on the back, from the "front" truck. And basically installed and ground back. This panel is basically finished now. Next is to install the door hinge reinforcements behind the door frame, then I should be able to move on to the door itself. I'm hoping I can get to the point where those are finished, then move the truck in to storage. I have another proejct I want as a winter focus this year, one that will show progress much faster than this has because it won't be hours upon hours of invisible pain staking work to accomplish it.
  16. I did also go help a friend with a barn find. 1967 Fairlane 500XL. Been stored in this barn for about 23 years. California Car, completely solid, but awesome patina. It was a bit of a tight squeeze getting it out of the barn. We had to remove the barn doors to get a couple inches more clearance. Even then we scraped a layer of paint off one side of the barn door frame getting it through. Car suffered no damage though.
  17. Between general UGH, and other aspects of life, progress has been slow on the project front. And the trailer is taking up about 95% of all my projecting time. But it nears completion for this year. There will still be a bunch more rust repair to do but that will wait until next year. I have other stuff I want to get done before winter sets in and I can't pull projects out of the backyard anymore due to snow. Patched a big rust strip across the front of the trailer. Honestly it turned out like crap. I'm pretty disappointed in how it looks finished. I had tons of wind issues blowing away my shielding gas. My welds turned to swiss cheese and had to be redone like 4 times, so its all warped. Gates to divide the horses were built and hung. My wife built the bumper pads that are on them. I reused stuff we had cut out of the trailer to build these. The gates also needed some kind of locking mechanism so we didn't just keep chaining them to the wall. So this is what we came up with. So far they have held up, but I'm not sure if they will in the long term. Added hooks to the lower saddle rack to hold the stirrups. The stirrups would drag on the floor and I didn't like that. I built a ghetto rod bender to make those hooks. Pipe and a pipe wrench for the win. Did the job well enough though. you just have to have plenty of extra stick out for it to work. We installed a water tank, but I had to build a little stand for it. The storebought stands are too big, but my wife wanted the hose connection off the floor some. Pardon the suck photos. We have a 5 foot hose that connects to it, which coils nicely and tucks inside the stand for storage. Then I built this swing out saddle blanket rack. Fully removeable from the trailer and locking. Vertical rod on the right is the lock. It swings over and a pin drops through the top to hold them all against the wall. I'm actually really happy with how this turned out and how well it works. Remove pin, swing to the side to unlock them. I've also built and hung like 8 hooks built out of old horseshoes in there. I need to weld up the old doors on this part of the trailer, build some saddle bag brackets, and add some helmet hooks. That should wrap this up for the year. I'm really hoping I can get this all done over this upcoming labor day weekend. Then I can focus on some other stuff to prep for winter.
  18. there aren't to many purists on Ratsun. We are all too broke to be purists.
  19. Other members have gone so far as to remove the bench back from the bench, and attach it directly to the back of the cab. That could buy you a some extra room, depending on the angle you put the seatback at.
  20. It seems like any one of those calipers would be sufficient for the entire car 😁
  21. It seems possible that with an electric fuel pump and a mechanical fuel pump block of plate, the 720 pump and bracket might be able to bolt on to an L head? No promises though. However, in today's market, I think it makes more sense to look at something like a Prius electric power steering column mated to your existing stuff. But if you have the power steering box you need, you could also investigate electric power steering pumps. Volvo and MB use them, as well as others.
  22. Maybe also look at 303 protectant? I've never done exterior stuff with it, but I've been pretty happy with the results on the interior of my 510.
  23. Looking at your diagram, I'm not sure you have all the grounds you need for both relays to operate. This is a random wiring diagram I pulled from the internet for 4 pin relays. Whatever the shape of the relay, any 4 pin should work this way 85/86 = one circuit with power in and power out (direct to ground usually). 87/30 = one cirucit with power in and power out (power out to the accessory(s) you want to run via the relay. You have R2 85 mapped to "ECU/Fuel Pump". This will work if you plan the relay to get to ground directly through those, or on the same ground as those. However, those two items will be routed through the low power side of the relay, not the high power. If you want them routed through the relays, you will want those routed through an 87 pin. So you may not have any issues, just want to be sure you looked at the whole picture and had them setup in the manner you intended.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.