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Everything posted by FlannelFairlady

  1. Exhaust is done and it sounds sooooo good! I can't say I am happy with a lot of the welds but it was my first time welding stainless with my tig welder so I am alright with that. Since I decided to use 3.5" tubing from the turbo back I had to transition to oval tubing to get past the differential which seems to have worked pretty well. All that I have left to do before I can drive the car is to button up a few loose ends with things like the gas tank vent, remounting my rear flares, tidy up the wiring, get an alignment, reinstall my tail lights. Video: https://imgur.com/Q8SSiQl
  2. The space would be a lot better if it was finished before we bought it. To finish out the shop is going to cost around 30k due to needing 3120 sq ft of concrete, roll up doors, electrical, and plumbing. So for right now it's just going to be a big car port. Already started filling it with cars. Picked up a Datsun 710 shell with a cage to work on after my Celica is done.
  3. Thank you. The house actually came with 2 shops and a basement garage. Here is a pic of unfinished larger shop with a 620 in it for scale.
  4. I have been super bad about keeping this up to date but here is an update. Since my last posting my fiancee and I bought a house with a lot more shop space which has meant I have spend a good chuck of time moving. Any ways I have some big updates, the car finally runs and moves under its own power! I had fired it up once prior to this but it wouldn't idle and I didn't have the turbo on it at the time. The cause of it not idling was a misconfigured ecu parameter related to the idle control valve. Hearing the car finally running after all these years of work is the motivation I need to get this thing done. Also in the time since I last posted I have installed a Sparco seat, harness, and a roll bar. I ended up having to cut out the factory seat mounts to get the seat down low enough to work correctly. What I have left at this point is gauges, rebuilding my coilovers, exhaust, carbon canister for the fuel tank vent, remounting my fender flares up higher, tail light surround, and an alignment. Next year the plan will be to paint the car but I want to drive the car before I strip it back down for body work and paint. Video: https://imgur.com/c4K0LxH
  5. Work has commenced on the wiring for the car. I started by laying some nylon rope and cutting everything to size so that the harness can be made off the car and to keep everything nice and tidy. I decided to mount my sealed fuse power distribution unit in the engine bay and to use the case from the original 280z ecu to mount my ms3pro. I'm making sure to take my time with this as any shortcuts will just mean potentially more work later. I have new connectors for everything and am using the best wire I could get my hands on for anything that didn't come with my ms3pro harness so basically just the power distribution side of things. I will need to order some more wire, sleeving, and another crimping die for my end to end splices.
  6. It gave me some issues initially. If I were to do it again I would go with one of the adapters that uses the 1uz automatic bellhousing.
  7. Downpipe is all welded up and I welded on a support tab which I will be be bolting to the engine through a pair of heim joints to allow the downpipe to have some flex while keeping it supported. I am definitely going to wrap the downpipe with some good quality exhaust wrap and make a heat shield that will cover the entire valve cover.
  8. The badge is just glued on, and don't worry it's coming off when I get around to it.
  9. I have been really bad about keeping this thread up to date. I have made loads of progress since I have last updated this and it will probably just be better for me to list everything I have gotten done so far. Rebuilt the 1UZ-FE and installed stiffer valve springs to compensate for the boost Modified my custom transmission crossmember Finished brake lines Assembled fuel system including surge tank Built my clutch slave bracket to work with the pull style slave cylinder Installed oil catch can Custom driveshaft installed Intercooler mounts fabricated T3 front and rear control arms installed CV axles installed Valve covers powder coated Throttle assembly finished Oil cooler assembly installed As far as what is left to get the car running there is just exhaust, wiring, cooling, intercooler piping, and some loose ends to tie up. I am hoping to have the thing fire for the first time in the next month but I am bad at estimating time so we will see how that goes. More to come soon.
  10. Small update. I finished remaking the core support and I am finally happy with how it looks, and the radiator is no longer the lowest part in front of the car. On top of that the upper core support is now removable while still being stiff enough I can jump on it and it doesn't bend at all. The engine is getting assembled tomorrow, I turned a head gasket job into a full rebuild. The head engine was cleaned and decked, ARP headstuds and rod bolts, Cometic 2.3mm head gaskets, regapped rings for boost, king rod and main bearings, and new seals all around. I also have a Wilwood clutch slave cylinder setup and a Tilton clutch master cylinder. In other news I bought a way newer car than I am used to as a new daily driver, a 2014 Nissan Juke Nismo RS awd with 15k miles on it. I needed something reliable and still different from most new cars. More to come.
  11. Thank you. The car will be at Canby this year for sure, it's getting pretty close to running. It's more of a time issue than a money one at this point.
  12. Not bad for my first serious fabrication project. I still have some problems with how I did somethings but we will see if I am not just over critical of my work.
  13. I am going to be redoing my upper core support in favor of a removable unit for easy of maintenance and I just don't like how I did it honestly. I just bought a tig welder so tat opens up my possibilities and I decided I a going to take a Cusco strut bar and turn that into a removable aluminum upper core support. The lower will be the same 1.5" DOM tubing I have in there now. Expect more updates to come a little more regularly than this last update. I will try and post some more pictures after I recover the old pictures from my broken phone.
  14. Well I totally got caught up in life for awhile but I am back!!! Since I last posted I moved out of my shop and into another house, and have gone through a daily project cars which presently has me with a 1990 Toyota Celica All-Trac. Time for a massive update, as I didn't stop work on the Z for those are don't have me on FB. Z Update: Progress since I last posted is quite extensive so I will just list what has been installed and built. -Twin Disk QuarterMaster Clutch with organic disks -Q45 Differential with Nismo CLSD center -T3 Mustache Bar -T3 Shortnose R200 Mount -New Wheel Bearings -Modified rear control arm crossbar -Hybrid Z31T/Pathfinder CV axles -240sx rear disk brakes -Hawk pads in all 4 corners -Rebuilt S30 Calipers (Will likely be replaced) -AEM 380lph fuel pump in an external surge tank -Carter low pressure lift pump -1/2 aluminum fuel likes front to back (will be redoing with braided AN line probably) -Aeromotive FPR -GKtech 350z shifter -Widened Work wheels to 17x9.5 and 17x11.5 -CX Racing Intercooler -Ron Davis Radiator -Synase R35 blow off valve I also made my turbo collector pipe and down pipe as you will see in the pictures which I am pretty proud of asides from how close the downpipe is to certain things. I have way more pictures than I am posting but a lot of them are stuck on my old broken phone and I haven't had a chance to recover them as of yet.
  15. So news. My apartment complex told me no more Z work or I get the boot.... So I rented a shop and have just been working till midnight every night there. I decided that I was not happy with my engine placement at all. So I built a cradle and pushed the engine as far back as I could. Which allowed me to use the front half of an 08 g35s driveshaft as my entire shaft. More to come very very soon. Soon...
  16. The plan is to relocate the battery to the hatch area since the turbo lives where the battery is now haha.
  17. Today I mocked up one of the frankensteined cvs for my shortnose r200 swap. They are shorter than the stock axles from my r180 so that's good enough for me to continue. My axle stubs are on their way to Virginia to be modified to work with my z31 turbo outer CVs. that is the last piece needed for my differential swap. Next step is to clean up and paint the diff so I can bolt it in the car. I was lacking on pictures on the last post so here.
  18. So I have been bad about updating this thing. Work has kept me super busy but the the cat is getting finished by May this year and WILL be at Canby this year. So far I have bought a lot of parts including a Q45 shortnose r200, Nismo 2 way clsd center, pathfinder CVs, T3 shortnose r200 adapter kit, gktech 350z transmission shifter, Subaru Wrx injectors, and that's just what I remember. I am working on cleaning up my gas tank and getting the new diff in the car the car this weekend and next week. Stay tuned.
  19. I meant to say collector,each back will feed one scroll of the turbo.
  20. I have been bad about updating this as of late. The crossover pipe fabrication has started and should be finished up sometime this weekend. I also decided to place the turbo where the battery was prior to this and will relocate the battery to the back. I did some calculating with my transmission choice and came to realize my SR transmission will blow up with the amount of power that will be going into it so I was able to track down a Z33 transmission with a bad shift fork so I am in the process of fixing that. In my mind the known broken transmission is better than the unknown good one and it was a great deal. I will say the broken fork looks gnarly.
  21. Tonight I was mocking up turbo placement in the engine bay. I have come the conclusion that in order to make this turbo fit I am going to have to move the radiator to the other side of the core support with the intercooler which isn't the end of the world. As for the actual turbo placement. I am thinking driver's side and running the down pipe across and down the passenger size with the wastegate welded on to the turbo housing and dumping into the 3.5" downpipe I am planning. The other idea was to place the turbo where the battery was which just seems like a bad idea to me.
  22. My aim is to have it done in time for Canby. That may or maynot happen haha.
  23. Time for what I am super excited about... the OhkaZ once again has a heart. It was a bit of a pain to get the engine in but I can happily say my reasoning for picking this set of mounts, this transmission, and this engine was correct. This setup will infact bolt in with the mk3 supra mounts with some slotting of the transmission crossmember. Next up will be exhaust work. There is far less space than I expected so that makes things interesting. If I wanted to take the easy way out I could just dump the exhaust under the car but that would be taking the easy way out I think.
  24. This weekend things are happening! I had a little hold up with clutch issues which is common with swaps like this, the SR clutch I got on a friends advice. The spring center section was a little too wide and would not clear the pressure plate as you can see. What I ended up doing was getting a smaller 240sx disk, unfortunately I have had the other disk too long so I have to eat that until I can trade or sell it. I cleaned up the engine bay a bit in prep for the new engine, I removed all the all brackets in the bay as they are of no use to me including the battery tray. I also added some rattlecan freshness because why not. This weekend the engine will be dropped into the bay for the first time and my welder friend will be dropping by to help mock things up and help me come up with a pipe order for all exhaust side stuff. Stay tuned.
  25. Well it will have a vband but it makes it easier and allows me to run only one wastegate on a twin scroll turbo and it makes routing the output from the wastegate back to the dump pipe easier.
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