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Everything posted by Charlie69

  1. Wayno, flatten the side if the exhaust pipe enough to clear the transmission. It will not be enough of a restriction to matter.
  2. Charlie69

    cannon manifold 821

    I have run L16s and L20Bs as high as 7000 RPM on a tac, and have had no problem sustaining that RPM for long periods of time. These were stock engines with over 100,000 miles on them. I did not realize you were asking a question about the clutch. Is you 1979 L20B a 720 or a 620? Short bed or long bed? Regular cab or King cab. The 720 had different gear ing than the 620. G-Daux is correct the L series engines love RPM. Now my later model 720s with the Z24s do not like the higher rpm but will do it if need be. I drive my trucks like I stole them. When I buy one the first thing I do is put a down draft DGEV 32/36 Weber on them. I work the shit out of my trucks and I keep them mechanically sound. It takes a lot of maintenance when you drive and work them like I do. The other people on Ratsun that I can think of off hand that work their trucks like I do is Wayno and Danial C. These litle trucks were designed to work and last.
  3. Charlie69

    cannon manifold 821

    Sounds like you know what might be wrong, not sure why you are not addressing the high RPM problem instead of trying to tune for it.
  4. Charlie69

    cannon manifold 821

    That is all well and good but I do not and I bet you do not drive around at WOT.
  5. Charlie69

    cannon manifold 821

    I always have run distributor vacuum from the carb port.
  6. Managed a couple hours of wire whittling today. I am running my front lights, coil, distibutor, temperature gauge sender, carb choke and cut solenoid wires through one of the 2 holes on the drivers side firewall. Lighting wires today engine wires tomorrow. Since the fuel tank and electric pump are on the drivers side I will run the fuel tank and pump wires along with backup, tail, stop, and turn wires out the second hole in the firewall on the drivers side, and along the inner frame rail back.
  7. Charlie69

    The 620-z

    You do have some mad fab skills!
  8. Charlie69

    The 620-z

    Great find and you jumped in with both feet hitting the ground running! Nice work and I like that you are taking your own approach instead of replicating someone elses build. Great individuality!
  9. I have an 84 King Cab ST, an 85 King Cab ST, and my DD is an 86 King Cab, all being Z24 5 speed 2 wheel drive trucks and I did not pay $2500 for all 3 of them. As far as the $1800 stereo is possibly what parts and installation cost new. Yo would have to list the coponents and price them out on the internet. The rule of thumb I use for used items is 50% the cost of new if in good working order.
  10. Charlie69

    cannon manifold 821

    Call Pierce Manifolds they would be able to tell you. I do not remeber the number on my Cannon on my L20B. Pierce Manifolds I believe Pierce Manifolds sells new Cannon Manifolds for the L20B.
  11. This is what I am slowly changing out my Datsun/Nissan fusible links for. A main fuse bkock from a Nissan Quest. The last couple picture are of a modded Quest battery tray withe the fuse block relocated on the shortened battery tray.
  12. I do not have the diesel Fusible link. I only have the gasoline.
  13. The 520 engine compartment is about 5" shorter than the 521. This is why the after market cables are too long in the 520s. The 520s also have a mechanical apparatise that also shortens the hood release cable but I have eliminated the mechanical aparatise on my 520. Sorry for the thread jack~
  14. I will look tomorrow. Thank you Wayno for re posting the picture of the diesel fusible link. Here is a table listing the Nissan color to amperage for fusible link wires.
  15. Wayno if you have a picture of what the factory fusible links look like for this truck I will look through my stash and see if I have the correct one for the truck.
  16. You should be able to get a tie rod end boot. Try NAPA.
  17. 620 hood release cables are available on ebay also. I have had the opposite experience Mr Tanker the after market hood release cables are too long for my 520. But I expected this.
  18. You can buy after market hood release cables on Ebay. Datsun 521 hood release cable
  19. Mike on a drop spindle the spindle in this case raises up 2" on the knuckle to provide the 2" ride height drop. This in turn raises the wheel up closer to the lower control arm and lower ball joint. On my 66 520 I can run the 1978/79 stock steel 620 wheels on the drop spindles with the lower control arm mod and 1/4" wheel spacers. But this combination only provides me with 1/8" to 3/16 inch clearance with the the lower ball joint. Now I could grind some of the ball joint to get more clearance but I am not comfortable with grinding on my new Moog lower ball joints. This is not enough clearance for my liking so I chose to run 1998 to 2002 16" x 7" Isuzu Trooper LS wheels.
  20. I also forgot to mention on my 66 520 with the 80 720 chassis I also have the Belltech 2" drop spindles. Wayno is correct no one explains every step. I did not cut my center adjuster tube that is why I have taken 5/8" off each inner and outer tie rod on both sides. I advise you take take a /4" off each tie rod and check the fit. The reason I have taken so much off is the 1980 center link is different then the 85/86 center link. The instructions and the drop spindle are for 85 up. I always figure you can make things work if you are determined. Wayno has guided me through many mods on my 520. Wayno knows what he is talking about.
  21. Congrats on getting it running.
  22. I think the reasun I noticed it is because the hood and the air dam are not sanded back to look weathered. It is amazing what a new Weber will do for drivability.
  23. Drive it normal for the first 500 miles, change the oil and drive it like you stole it! LOL
  24. Thank you for the kind words. No I am addicted and have been since the 70s. I honestly cannot pass up a cheap truck.
  25. Thank you for the kind words. When I cut mine off I use a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel. I put the tie rod end in a vise and cut the amount off. Before cutting I run a nut up on the threads of the tie rod. After cutting the tie rod I take the grinder with a flat disc and chamfer the cut end off the tie rod a little to remove any burrs left from cutting. I then take and remove the nut and buy doing this to clean the threads up at the cut end. I always run a nut up on any threads I am going to cut before cutting, this helps to get the threads cleaned up for the assembly of the parts.
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