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wivrrat

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About wivrrat

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 05/18/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    california
  • Cars
    83 nissan king cab, 81 rabbit diesel pickup, 91 jeep cherokee, 1958 ford pickup
  • Occupation
    retired
  1. It's not buzzing, its clicking on and off. I thought the relay was related to the fuel pump. Will it hurt anything or cause me problems clicking? thx for the reply.
  2. Last week my 6 prong RY-55 relay started to chatter. I replaced it with a new relay and I'm still getting occasional chatter, expecially at start up and initial running. This is the small square relay attached to the larger oblong fuel pump relay. What would cause this? Do I need to change out the larger relay also? Could this be a sign my electric fuel pump is having problems. Or should I just ignore it. Thanks
  3. Hopefully fixed. Spent about 4 hours on it this a.m. Emory clothed it once, cleaned all the plug's, etc. and put back together. Gauge's worked intermittently, up and down. So we took it back out again and re-sanded it. Put back together and nothing, except the idiot lights were working wrong. Left turn signal didn't light, battery light didn't light until it was running. Another hour or so checking voltage, etc. until I suggested to my mechanic that maybe we had the two white plugs swapped, he swapped them and all the idiot lights returned to normal, turn signals worked correct, etc, but the gauge's didn't work at all. I said forget it, I'll put a live gauge for the temp. We closed it all up and when I started the truck, the gauges worked. Don't work with key on, only when running?????? Anyhow, they are working for now. I only need them when its running anyway. Thanks Mike for the suggestion and picture. You guys are great.
  4. Wow, sure wasn't looking for that kind of regulator. No wonder we missed it. Thanks Mike, will give it a try. So to replace it, you would have to replace the whole gauge? Racerx, I don't know what a JY is?
  5. Thanks Len, I read all the post and looked at your pics of drop. Sure doesn't look like my gauge's. Back to the drawing board. Thx
  6. Hi. My fuel/temp gauge use to go off and on, now they quit working period. My mechanic and I tore the instrument cluster out and looked at the scematic in a nissan repair manual to troubleshoot. In the scemetic it shows a voltage regulator in line for those two gages. When we took the gages out including the speedometer, we could not find a voltage regulator. No where on the firewall either. Anyone know where I can find the fuel/temp gauge voltage regulator? Thats about the only thing we thought could stop them from working. When it was intermitent, it may have been going out. Now it is out. Thanks in advance. Bill
  7. Have a unusual event happening with my lights. The turn signal headlight switch works great. Wipers work great also. Every once in awhile, my lights turn on automatically. I can be in the house and look out and see my lights on. Twice I have had a dead battery because the lights came on during the night and drained the battery. I know I can replace the switch, but is there anything else that could cause this to happen. Dirty contacts, etc. Thx
  8. Hi. Have been doing some further research. Turns out it is the intank pump relay that was chattering, relay #28545-89900, not the inhibitor relay as the mechanic told me. The relay, as King Rat said, has to do with the fuel pump. It provides power to the external fuel pump located on the side of the truck, and if it goes bad, you will have no power going to the fuel pump. As to the alternator, I had it taken out and bench tested. Tested fine. I will be looking at battery cables, belts, etc. as suggested in the other posts and do some testing. Sure have a lot of problems with the electric on this truck. May need to take it to a electric shop and have it gone over. Thanks for the replies.
  9. I finally looked at the relay and called a couple parts stores and the relay is around $50.00. Don't understand why the truck has the relay when I don't have a intank pump?
  10. Hi. Having a unusual problem with my 83 z24 engine. Lately I have been hearing a chattering noise coming from the passenger side of the truck, under the glove box. A Couple times when the chattering was happening, the alternator light came on. Twice I opened the hood and lifted the negative cable off the battery and the engine died. Most of the time when this occured I was driving down or up my long dirt canyon drive (slow speed). Once I hit pavement and sped up, the alternator light went out and the chattering stopped. I finally took it to a alternator shop yesterday and they removed the alternator and it looked brand new and tested fine. I told them about the relays I found chattering and they looked it up on a scamatic. Identified them as the choke relay and inhibitor relay. The inhibitor relay (larger one) was the one doing the chattering. I felt it when it was chattering and it was hot to the touch and the relay was constantly connecting.. I asked the mechanic how these relays could be affecting the alternator and they didn't know. He said the description of the inhibitor relay said it was to be used on a automatic transmission vehicle????? I haven't removed the relays yet as I planned on doing that this a.m. I'm thinking of just replacing the relay if I can find it. Went to 4 auto parts stores and none showed a inhibitor relay. All had the choke relay. I hear that relay engaging everytime I turn the key on in the ignition. Do remember in the past when the truck set for a long time and the battery was low and I tried to turn it over, I heard the chattering in the lower right corner. Seems to be influenced by the battery voltage???? Any suggestions from the forum would be greatly appreciated. Thx, Bill
  11. I finally ordered a ECM for my truck, hopefully it will fix my problem with no voltage to the carb selenoid. My truck was built in 4/83. Seems Nissan made two models that month. I had to talk to a nissan parts department to confirm that the two ECM's for that month will be interchangeable. He didn't think there would be a problem. Couldn't find any ECM with my part #, but found many with the later ECM number. Will keep the blog posted.
  12. From my experience checking this problem, it is not only in the 6 plug wire, but can be caused by the ECM or other component supplying power to the selenoid. The wire that supplies the selenoid has to be followed to the source.
  13. If that carb has a selenoid in it like my California 83 carb, you may be having the same problem I've been going thru. No power to the selenoid. You can adjust the idle screw all you want, but it won't help if the selenoid in the carb is not activating. You have to check the 6 plug wireing into the carb to see if the one firing the selenoid has power to it. The selenoid can be taking out of the nissan carb and it will idle smooth. Mine's running great with the selenoid out. Still working on finding out where I'm missing the power to the selenoid. Carb exchange in Fontana rebuilt mine and know all about the selenoid problem. They are great to work with. Cost me around $220.00 for the carb to be rebuilt by them. Good luck.
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