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Maschinenbau

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About Maschinenbau

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  • Location
    Indiana
  • Cars
    El Camino, Model A hot rod, Datsun 210 wagon
  1. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Long time since last update. I was on vacation last week and I just took a new job 500 miles away, so I am super busy the next few weeks with the move. Luckily our new place will have a 2 car garage, but first I have to get the cars there. I don't trust a carrier to pick up the Datsun in its current state of wierdness, so I will be dolly towing it down. I trust the rear subframe and rolling stock but the rear needs shocks. So I made shock mounts. These are used Koni 30 series oval track shocks. They have 4 adjustment settings and are pretty beefy. I got 'em $10 a pop from facebook marketplace. The top beam bolts off the car, allowing me to remove the shock with it from inside the wagon. The vertical pillars stay welded to the chassis. One of the pillars is also welded to the vertical wall for extra stability. The sheetmetal on the bottom surface is very thick because that's near where the Datsun shocks originally mounted. The bumper bouncing test proves the shock mounts are a success. The rear end feels much more stable for the open road this weekend.
  2. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Rice Rod build thread here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/the-rice-rod-31-model-a-pickup-with-a-2jz/123261/page1/ Got my driveshaft back from the shop, and it fits! Here's the front, which is a slip-yoke into the back of the trans. The rear is a 4-bolt flange with a guide nose. I had to make sure the shaft was about 1/2" short of the splined end being fully seated. That's because to install it, you fully seat spline end, which allows just enough clearance to lift the flange end onto the diff, then slip it rear-ward to seat the guide nose in the diff flange. The theme of this post is shafts, so here the steering shaft, shorted by almost a foot. I welded a sleeve over the joint just for extra strength. This u-joint used to connect to the G35 steering column. You have to be careful welding near u-joints. If it gets too hot, the grease will boil out and you might seize the joint. I went very slow, about 3/4" at a time, then dipping the u-joint into water and leaving it front of a fan for a while before continuing. From left to right: G35 steering rack, u-joint, shorted G35 shaft, u-joint with Datsun flange, Datsun column. It all bolts up! I designed the flange to work with a rag joint, but it makes the steering feel terrible by flexing way too much, so for now I'm leaving it out. My gut tells me I need something to slide or flex due to the non-parallel pair of u-joints. Or maybe I'm overthinking it. With steering mostly sorted, that brings us to the brakes. I need to adapt the G35 master cylinder to the Datsun firewall. No room for a booster as you can see. Arts and crafts to transfer the bolt pattern. I'll need some sort of shaft to adapt the Datsun brake pedal to the G35 MC. That's it for this weekend. Can't wait to drive...
  3. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    If you do a rear-end swap and narrow, might as well get a Ford 8.8 out of a junkyard Explorer. Good gear options, LSD is easy to find in a yard, disk brakes, simple "tube" design is easy to narrow and weld brackets to for a DIY'er. Lots of aftermarket off-the-shelf axle lengths for however narrow you want to go. And virtually bulletproof for the power levels any car on a Datsun forum will see. I put a 3.73 LSD 8.8 in my '31 Ford hot rod (2JZ powered). It was like $80 at Pull-a-part. I welded 3-link brackets to it, along with a panhard bar and coilover mounts. The same axle was behind a 340 whp engine running 12s before I robbed that car for parts.
  4. Maschinenbau

    B310 of Maximum Zootness

    Just read through your entire build so far and I love everything you're doing. Nice fabrication skills. I made some similar frog legs on my B310, but I also ran beams across the trumpet and down the firewall to create a triangle.
  5. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Trans is mounted, the mounts are welded in, and the ends of the driveshaft are perfectly parallel. Ready to get shortened! I also started mounting the Datsun front bumper to the Infiniti frame rails. Also mounted the sway bar after cleaning up and re-painting the brackets and replacing the bushings. Then I primered the most-finished fender just for fun, and it looks much better all the same color. Some bondo in the top corner will cover the weld and create a nice fillet. That's all I did today. Not much project work this weekend because I went to a car show yesterday to look for inspiration and Friday I fixed the minivan's A/C. Its condenser was leaking in obvious way, so I went ahead and replaced it, the compressor, and the receiver/drier since the van is getting up there in miles.
  6. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Thanks guys. I have plenty of time to shop for a diff, so I can wait for the right deal on a M/T one with the better gears. Let me know if anyone has leads! Yeah the box flares are pretty nasty but I needed to cover up 3" of tire somehow. I think they'll look better with paint and more body work. I mean, they are literally filing cabinet. And there's no helping a B310 wagon's body lines anyway lol.
  7. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    This update is kinda all over the place. I got a lot of random things done, but the big one is the engine is back in and looks perfectly at home. I cut 1/2 coil out of the front lowering springs. It's still not enough. I think another 1/2 coil will do it. I'm getting good at 350Z/G35 suspension. I also relocated the O2 sensors. Involuntarily. Because the manifold flange was completely rusted so during build party weekend it got sawzall'd off along with the sensor bung. I welded this turn-down flange thing from the exhaust scrap pile, and added a new bung. You can buy new ones on Rockauto universal parts section for just a couple bucks. With those things taken care of, I put the engine back in. Which also means bolting the front suspension back together. You may also notice the front end parts are on! If you remember, this was a parts car for a different year car. These "boxy" front parts never actually bolted to this car, so I had to make my own mounting points. These are weld nuts, 1/4-20 thread. Just brush the paint off, drill a hole, and tack it in. Perfect for mounting little stuff like plastic grills, head lights, and brake and fuel lines. And then for no reason I started mounting the transmission. The G35 trans mount will work, but needs material built to it from the Datsun floor and some mounting studs or bolts. Single-cardan driveshafts (the cheapest and simplest kind) need parallel mounting faces. My trans and rear end should always stay parallel, since the rear is IRS. My plan here is to fab the mounts a little long, bolt them to the G35 trans mount, jack up the trans mount until the metal contacts the floor, check the angles, and grind metal from there until both faces are parallel. Then measure joint-to-joint and send the G35 driveshaft ends off to get a tube welded between them and balanced. Right now my prototypes are pretty darn close within 0.4 deg, but I need to weld bolts in first to make studs.
  8. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Thanks! Here is a budget update. Sold a few big things like the stereo/CD changer on ebay, netting about $93 after shipping and ebay/paypal fees, tail lights for $60, and a surprising amount of little $20 parts from the Datsun like brake MC and wheels. I still have a few "big-money" G35 parts, like front fenders, trunk lid, and power seat switches that will just take time. When you're not in a hurry, and do your research on which parts are worth saving, and have decent storage space, you can do pretty well on a part-out. I have scrapped about $75 so far between the two cars, making more by separating the aluminum and steel parts. Scrap prices have come back up this year. Total Spent $ 937.43 Total Recouped $ 730.64 Total Purchases $ 1,668.07 Budget Remaining $ 1,080.57 As for remaining parts, this is what I'm budgeting for. Anything left on the table becomes N2O, probably installed in the parking lot per GRM tradition. Exhaust $ 50.00 Driveshaft shortening $ 200.00 Fuel $ 100.00 LSD Rear Diff, 350Z $ 250.00 Paint $ 150.00
  9. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Paint still counts in the budget, and aesthetics count in the judging part of the competition, so I saved about $150 in the plan for the paint job. It's low on the totem pole right now though. I have been spraying the engine bay and front clip with Rustoleum Harbor Blue only because the engine is out. I want to keep it a similar color to the original, but probably two-tone or some kind of race livery.
  10. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Yep I will scale it. They have corner weights at the $2,018 Challenge. The original Datsun 210 curb weight was 2,080 lbs for a wagon. An 03 350Z Automatic coupe is 3,210 lbs. I hope to be somewhere near 2,300 lbs. Going by power:weight ratio, it should feel like a 350hp 350Z or a V8 Miata.
  11. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    I don't even know where to start with this pile of sheetmetal pictures so here you go. I joined the frame rails and patched the floors, but it felt like so much more work than just saying that.
  12. Maschinenbau

    DREAM build! 1972 Nissan Skyline GTX "HKOSUKA"

    I finally read through this thread. All I gotta say is, wow, your body man is doing amazing work and your dream is going to come true. Keep it up and it will all be worth it one day. Looking forward to more fabrication photos. I LOVE fab fotos.
  13. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Mine didn't exactly fall apart on its own...the center sleeve was rusted to the stud on the chassis, so I was hammering the control arm with a 4lb sledge which tore the rubber! It was otherwise fine until I tried to remove the suspension.
  14. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Thanks! I still have good momentum. Got the old bushing outer ring off using a hack saw and chisel. Alright how am I gonna do this. The clamp in the rent-a-tool kit isn't long enough to get this bushing. Think about it Think about it some more Get it good All this effort saved about $40 in the budget versus buying a new control arm with the bushing already installed. Now I have to get the other half of the old bushing off its post. I rewarded myself with some engine cleaning. Simple Green, coarse kitchen brushes, garden hose, followed up with wire brush on a cordless drill. The pulleys were all rusted from the cracked radiator and sitting for a while. The wire brush and a bit of black paint helps them out a bit.
  15. Maschinenbau

    DATSANITI - '80 210 Wagon VQ35 Swap

    Sometimes to go forward, you must take a step back. This is 3 hours working alone after work today. 2 of that spent trying to un-torque the super rusty sway bar and LCA bolts. Damn they were stuck but very surprisingly not of them broke off! Out the bottom made sense because the G35 uses a lower subframe which cradles the engine, mounts the steering rack, and one of the LCA's. The black lower piece is the subframe, the top grey stuff is G35 unibody/front clip. Notice the two hefty studs. Two on each side hold the subframe to the car. There was one casualty tonight. Here is what the "rear LCA" is supposed to look like: Here is what one side looked like after tonight: I sure hope that bushing isn't hard to replace... ...or hard to get this off its post! Here's why I did this. I need to join the G35 and Dastun frame rails for the last stretch of major structural work. Luckily the Datsun rails fit snugly inside the Infiniti ones. My plan here is basically "gap, cap, and overlap". First I'll weld all the seams between each rail, then the cut open ends will get capped with 1/8". After that I will plate across each rail, fully boxing it in. While I'm in here, I want to clean and brush/polish all the engine aluminum, mount the brake booster and MC, route the steering shaft, and clean and paint engine bay and inner fender area. I also have to cut 1/4 coil out of the fronts to get another inch (hopefully).
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