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Posts posted by SakuraGarage

  1. FWIW, I currently have a 14x7 -9 with a 20mm spacer up front and a 25mm spacer out back, so a 14x8 -28 would be cake (for me). That's not for everyone though, as my car is running quite a bit more negative camber front and rear than most.



    I'll probably be switching to a 14x7 -32 out back and 14x7 -24 up front.  Found some wheels I like in those sizes.  :thumbup:



    Your tires are also quite tall/large for a 1200. 

    Yeah those are 205/60/15's. I run 205/60/13's (pictured up against the drawers). i just poped the 92's off another car in the shop. I guess if you stretched a 195 on an 8 you could put -4 degrees camber up front and clear no prob. I can go to almost -6 up front but thats just silly. Rears, for us solid axle guys, -25 on an 8 will be outside of the cdm fender flare... thats cool i guess if you dont like being that low, or dont mind banging it on the flare.


    My picture is kind of deceptive also because i had a jack under the rear and the tire isnt touching the ground. The tires weren't my concern, its that with -25 on a 7 the rim just barely pokes in the front and pokes a few mm in the back. Im too low for those offsets but a taller car could do it, it would just poke. All i was saying is that they will poke. Im about to pull the tires off the enki's so if some one wants to see what 15x7 -25 poke looks like without tires being a factor.




    On the 13's ive got 3.5 inches between the ground and the oil pan, less to the header, it scrapes on everything.

  2. I got some 15x7 0 offset 92's and decided to throw them on the 1200.




    They are quite a bit bigger than my 13 inch Panasports.





    with a 205/60/15 the tire touches the flare. Ill probably need to go down to a 205/50





    All of these pictures are with a 20mm spacer. I may just run a 15mm front and 20mm in the rear.

  3. nice work, I just got my CDM flares and have to start doing the same thing. Wasn't sure if it would be easier on the metal to go inside to out or out side to in?

    Outside in would be easier/harder. You will no doubt cause all manor of dents and ripples beating the outside in. However, the outside is MUCH thinner metal so it would in theory be easier to hammer/shape. 


    I do it this way to keep the jagged seam as far away from where the tire can contact it as possible. This way in the event your tire does touch the fender, it will be on a smooth roll.

  4. Also a little tip i figured out is to wedge a little block of wood or something on the inside of the fender. once you cut the inner and outer free from each other the outer has a tendency to suck in about a half inch. This should keep the fender from deforming so you can weld it and put some strength back into the panel.

  5. I finally got around to re-chopping the hell out of my fenders for the CDM flares.


    I cut the fender up about 2 inches and left the inner fender a bit long. I basically just split the spot welds and chopped it right above. Then hammered, and hammered, and threw tools and cursed, then hammered more.


    this is right about to where i wanted it.


    Ready to re-weld.

  6. Thanks. all this does help a lot. I REALLY appreciate a link to the book, i don't mind reading to learn and do it often. I just haven't ever seen a single post about how to mold the fiberglass fenders on, so hopefully this helps someone else too.


    P.S. What suspension is that in the last picture? 

    Its a 240sx and the coilovers are Tein super drifts. Molding in the fenders, i affix them to the body (if you have the rivet reliefs already just rivet it on and fill the reliefs) and a panel bonding adhesive like the guy in the video did. Then a thick strip of the panel bonding adhesive in the joint where the flare meets the body... let it set up and do a quick sand then cover the joint with a light weight body filler. If you are going to have to use a lot of filler to make it smooth then just lay some fiber glass over the joint/seam first. Ideally you'll want as little filler as possible or it may crack down the road. You'll put a lot of hours into sanding/shaping and its probably best to just pay some one to do it once you've cut, welded, and attached the flares.  

  7. 54791886488f11e2ac5022000a9f18b3_7_zpsb954791886488f11e2ac5022000a9f18b3_7_zpsb9

    this is the arch cut and the inner hammered up a bit.


    This is after a bit of hammering the inner over the outer


    a bit more hammering... (this car had a 1/2" of bondo and tons of holes on the rear fender... hopefully yours will look better under there.) I can't find a picture of it welded but you get the idea... you'll notice the gap... that wasn't a mistake, it was rusted on the back side and i trimmed it out.

    Start to finish this is about a 3 hour job for rears and like 20 mins fronts.

  8. if your not cutting the fenders then flares are pointless unless you want to be a million feet high. Im a paint and body guy and I really hate that video of the guy doing the "SCCA" Z. For metal quarter panels just place the flares where you want them, mark them, cut a bit below your mark, hammer the inner fender out/over the outter fender (you'll want to cut the outer a bit higher than the inner) and weld them back together. Then just bolt on or mold the flares in. 

    • Like 1
  9. Sound about right. Mine was near that and I think we eventually got it down to around 320-330. Carbureting could save a few more pounds. Still heavy. But not much heavier than other Nissan OHC engines.


    A-series engines being an OHV pushrod design, they are inherently lighter, and have their weight lower down.  :thumbup:



    Can't say I agree, but I'm no expert. A lot of weight savings are free. 

    Gutting the interior saved me just less than 35 lbs. I never had a spare so I have no clue what that would save but if you literally remove everything interior/comfort related to the car you loose less than 50 lbs I would imagine, you can shave weight like that by going on a diet... everything after that is $$$.

  10. Don't know about "poser", but an A14 or A15 might have been a smarter investment.   ;)



    Plenty of KA-equipped Datsuns change directly quickly. It's a matter of retuning the suspension for the heavier engine, and shifting weight to the rear to maintain a better balance. It's not impossible, or even terribly difficult. But they are fun with an A-series too.  ^_^


    FWIW, most folks I know use the KA for it's wall of torque, not it's "adequate" horsepower.  :thumbup:

    I agree on the a14/15. We once weighed a KA24DE out of an s14 Dry it was 388.7 lbs. When I weighed my A12 dry it was 190.8. My Dad always told me when performance is a factor its always cheaper to make power than it is to shave weight (safely).

  11. Because RATSUN we don't like to spend $$$ when $ will get better performance. RATSUN is doers, not posers.

    I built an A12... Guess I'm a poser. I would never put a KA in anything I own. That's partially because I've been building 240sx's for over a decade and we use them for paper weights or avant-garde lawn art. Also, performance is a relative term. Adding a 120 whp KA boat anchor to the front of a nimble car to me is a performance hindrance rather than upgrade. Maybe a difference in priorities, but I like to change direction quickly.

    • Like 1
  12. KA-T's are ticking time bombs in my experience. No cheaper than an SR and are just waiting to throw their parts all over the road. Of course I'm biased because Ive built quite a few 240sx's and only 2 or 3 guys in town have kept KA-T's together... all spent a lot of money on them. Nico Club Greg (AZHitman) and my buddy George's have been going for years but most others have gotten tired of rebuilding them and go to better motors. If you just want to run a T25 and >7lbs of boost they last forever but IMHO are slow and boring. Stock SR with t28 is way more fun an reliable.

  13. Thanks guys, I tried an early 280z cap and it doesn't fit I should be able to find a late 280 in the junk yard as they are heaps and most of us Z guys avoid them like an STD. (I have a 2 240z's, a 260z, and an early 280z, none would seal correctly.). Ill call Larry H. Miller Nissan and see if they can order me a 1200 specific one otherwise I guess Rock Auto it is. I never Order stuff from rock auto because its usually junk and/or they send me the wrong parts.


    Thanks for the Part number GGzilla!

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