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demo243

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Posts posted by demo243


  1. Decided to do the right thing, pulled the center unit and made two thinner shims. 
     

    The one I made yes came in around 1.3mm, the two I put in today came in a little under .5mm each so ~1mm shim, which allowed it to slip with some decent force- my guess is about 50-60ft lbs.

     

    spent some time swapping it in and went for a rip.

     

    4.44 are definitely quick... and zippy... about 4K @ 80 mph ... 

     

    also the shimmed  LSD works! Maybe too well... will easily step side ways in 2nd and 3rd.... made for an interesting on ramp experience.

     

    Definitely time for some new sticky tires... and probably time to bite the bullet and get a rear adjustable rear crossmember— mines slotted, but would like to have the proper brackets...— between the rear camber since lowering it more, the old tires and the LSD it’s a bit tail happy

    • Like 2

  2. Also

     

    got bored this afternoon so I pulled my 4.44 out of the basement. When I swapped to the KA I swapped the 4.11 back in, both figuring it might fit the “car” better and cause the 4.44 lsd was breaking away really easily.

     

    pulled it apart to put a shim in it and tighten it up.

     

    49953837342_67dc783386_b.jpg

     

    definitely some of wear in these clutches...

     

    49953837307_442bbba13e_b.jpg


    made a thicker shim and bolted it back together... but I may have gone too thick... my vise moves before I can get the diff to break loose hahhahah 

     

    will probably just throw it back together and in the car anyway to see how it is... I suspect it will be really buzzy on the highway but well see

     

    also added a brace to the wink mirror to try and support it and keep it from vibrating so much 

     

    49953052238_f71fe6bfe5_b.jpg


     

    49953837317_32c97010a2_b.jpg


     

    if it works I might trade the 3m adhesive for a bolt.

     

    only downfall will be night driving and not being able to angle the mirror up to divert headlights...

    well see...


  3. 22 minutes ago, Duke said:

    I mulled over carbs and induction a ton in the past.  I initially ran 40mm PHH's on my KA because that is what came with the engine when I purchased it.  When I acquired the 44's that are currently on it I sent them to Wolf Creek Racing for a rebuild and initial jetting.  I spoke to Todd a bunch about jetting, venturi sizing, my intended usage, etc and he set up the carbs to suit this.  Since doing this they have been pretty much flawless, minus the issue of the float bowls overfilling under high G loads.  I think that for how I use my car, anything bigger than 44's would have a negative impact on throttle response, which is something that I don't want to give up.

     

    If I were to change my induction setup (and I don't plan on it for a while at least), I think I would make the jump to ITB's.  The cost of ITB's and EFI vs. new, larger carbs is pretty even, especially with how affordable and user friendly standalone ECU's have become in the last few years.  Also, I bet you could make more ultimate power with ITB's than with carbs, with the added plus of easier tuning and better drivablity.


    Todd was a great resource. I got my Mikunis from him originally and he was able to jet the correctly for my L20b based on some guess work by me hahah pretty incredible !!!

     

    yea the 44s seem to match the engine well. And I think you have a bigger cam set up since I’m still on stock cams. 
     

    Definitely wouldn’t want to give up the awesome low end grunt and responsiveness of this set up!

     

    just curious....

     

    i think your right ultimately itbs and efi would be the ultimate performance set up with the ability to tune everything exactly where you want it... I still like the idea of carbs on these old cars... although bike carbs are newer... so your kinda blending the two...

     

    anyway good info!

     

     


  4. Just some more food for thought ... and poor $$$$ decisions....

     

    Basic premise of it all...

     

    Mikuni HSR - Replacement for Sidedraft?


    Here are the mounts for an HSR45 and HSR48

     

    s-l1600

     

    s-l1600 2


    and some quick measurements of my spare KA24DE

     

    Sorry upside down... but outside bolt spacing is ~90mm

     

    49950433027_b996b6d49d_b.jpg

     

    68mm inner

     

    49950433022_2429b4bb75_b.jpg

     

    runner inner diameter 

     

    49950140151_a2f202c1bc_b.jpg


    sooo... the next big question becomes sizing....

     

    looking at vperformance, they compared HSR45s to Weber 50s.... but what about HSR48s... too big? Gotta do some more research.

     

    @Duke you ever think about bigger carbs then 44phhs? These seem to flow fine, so without major mods, ie big cams and high comp... it might not be worth it.

     

    just covid boredom inspiring some thinking and potentially poor decisions...


  5. If you are looking at Webers Pierce Manifolds if your go to source. 

    As has been mentioned, if you can find a Mikuni shorty manifold that will help with clearance issues.

    • Like 2

  6. Not sure whether to post this in my 620 thread or here since I am thinking about carb'ing the truck... but since this is the car that is carb'ed already, and if there is a big performance gain it would end up on this car, Ill post it here...

     

    Its more of an info dump for future reference... but also a thought on possible bigger carb options for this car.

     

    Gone down a bit of a rabbit hole in the last 24 hours on other carb options. Mikuni PHH carbs are getting harder to find... and you can still get OER Carbs new from Japan... but was curious what else is out there... 

     

    Saw in another thread on here about using Mikuni Bike Carbs - In particular the HSRs - which are available in a 45 and 48mm. 

    http://www.mikunipower.com/HSR01.htm

     

    Some info on them here --- although FYI it sounds like this guy stiff'ed a number of people... 

    http://www.v-performance.com/products/air_fuel.html

     

    Some quick rough measurements and it looks like the rubber mounting bracket for the HSR 45s should bolt up directly to a Weber DCOE/Mikuni PHH compatible manifold --- and the 48's might bolt directly to my other manifold with the Nissan rubber isolators.

    There is also the possibility of running Keihin's as big as 51mm which could be a great alternative to a set of VERY expensive Mikuni PHH50s... 

    I know there are a few other threads on here about these, but not to much out there in terms of running them on Cars... Did see a few draw through turbo/supercharger set ups which could be interesting.... 

    Anyway... rambling a bit... 

    Cost of the HSRs seems to be pretty similar to buying a set of OERs from Japan, so may not be worth pursuing... but an interesting Idea to keep a Mikuni product on the car. 


  7. Just noticed all the throttle cable talk. I am running an S13 cable on both my 510 and 620, the 510 is a bit different since its running carbs... but the 620 should be pretty similar. The biggest issue you are going to run into running it straight back to the firewall, along the FW and then into the cabin is those are very tight bends which aren't going to allow the cable to slide smoothly... particularly the bend into the cabin.

    Here is my 510 set up -

    20180413_172922

     

    Here is my 620 set up - 

     

    20191006_181114

     

    The 510 cable is noticeably stiffer then the 620 and they are using the same cable - I think the biggest difference is the tight ben coming out of the firewall that the 510 cable has, and less so the big u bend that the 510 cable has.  I could probably benefit from a longer cable on the 510 to create a bigger more swooping bend out of the firewall. With the position of the carb linkage its always going to have to cross the engine I think....

    With that said... I would be interested in a longer cable for the 620 as well which would allow the cable to sit fully in front of the engine instead of against the oil cap. 

    You may want to consider running it straight out the firewall and across and up the front either way for a straighter run.

     

    i can take more photos this afternoon/evening if you want anything specific. 


  8. 1 hour ago, Duke said:

    I have been leaning towards giving "The Right Stuff" a try.  I have heard good things from multiple sources and I like the short cure time.  Less time for oil to drip down and fowl the seal as thing cure.


    Thats why I tried it. RTV takes forever to cure, I wanted to be able to pull the engine, pull the pan and reseal and drop the engine back in in one day. 

    Drained the engine, pulled it, pulled the pan, cleaned the pan and block real well, applied right stuff to pan, installed the pan, let it sit for a bit updsidedown on the stand,  dropped it back in, filled it back up, and ran it same day. Still holding for me *** fingers crossed... knock on wood.... ***

    Thought about trying to do it with the engine in the car, but decided it would be just as hard and annoying working around the crossmember and steering linkage as it would be to just pull the engine... I got pretty quick at pulling the engine at the end of the build anyway... and its just easier to deal with the pan when the engine is upside down, less likely to move it before all the bolts are in. 

    • Like 1

  9. I had trouble with RTV on my KA as well...  down in the same area as well if I remember... I was so mad because it was a fresh build and it start leaking immediately. 

    I think this is the stuff I ended up using, and it has been holding good since ---

    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/the-right-stuff-1-minute-5911/chemicals---fluids-16461/glues--adhesives---sealants-19861/gasket-makers---sealers-19581/166cc2694828/permatex-the-right-stuff-1-minute-gasket-maker/25238/6236126?pos=62

    • Like 1

  10. 3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    @demo243, what tires are you running in that last pic? When I get the 510 out on the road next year I want to have that stance.


    dropped another 2 turns on the front coil overs today, maybe a couple more to come...

     

    49900017017_9d2e89267d_b.jpg

     

    @grannyknot  running 205/50r15 Falken Azenis on 15x7 +25 Rota RBs with a 10mm spacer and longer wheel studs on the front, stock 510 struts and axles. The Falkens run wide, but look mean from the front. Debating between the falkens again or the Dunlop direzza IIIs or DZ102s next since these are getting old. The falkens do get hard when cold and spin easily before they have warmed up.

    • Like 2

  11. 2 hours ago, d.p said:

    I would look into it if you are worried about having to pass anything. 

     

    In Mass, I think even with antique plates you still need to pass the safety inspection... which since they put cameras in all the inspection stations a couple years ago has made it much harder for an inspector to turn a blind eye to an older car.

    I understand their reasoning for inspections... but it really makes it harder on the "classic" car crew. The problem is even if you do a 25 year exemption, now you are exempting Honda Civics from the 90s.... and most of those are why we need to have inspections. 

    My 620 would probably pass, although technically it is too low now, and the floorboard "patch" from one of the POs probably wouldn't either... The 510 I doubt given how much is removed from it and there are two small rust holes at the trunk corners. 

    • Like 1

  12. 1 hour ago, docbainey said:

     

    Yeah, good 13" rubber is slim pickens. Its either Toyo or Michelin for treaded tires, even though they are actually track tires. Michelin is kinda pricy. Dunlop and BFG still have some offerings but they're wsw tires.

    https://www.cokertire.com/michelin-tb15.html

     

     

    If I run these I might get some Federals. Looks like you can still find 185/60 595s for about $50 each... Narrower then I want... but oh well...

    Still deciding what I want to do for 13's... or if I even want to keep pursuing them... The original plan was for them to be Track/Autocross wheels, but I haven't been good at getting to the track or autocross in a while.... I still am considering picking up some 13" Rotas so they use the same tuner lugs as my 15's. I just dont like the old shank style lugs... Just dont know if I can justify buying full on track/autoX tires at the moment... dont know if I will get there enough times in the next few years to use em up... Or I just get some new Azenis or StarSpecs and run them for both street and track use.

     

    They also offer Rota Grids in a 15x7 +20 now too in both bronze and black which is really tempting... the 15" RBs need new tires anyway... so is it time for a change? swap to 15" Grids for daily use? 


  13. Not much to update... 

     

    Just been driving the truck --- A lot --- with all this Covid stuff all my trips are pretty local, and it much more fun to drive this then my Tacoma.

     

    49874391671_6baf0a848a_b.jpg

     

    49873860858_48f5c71670_b.jpg


    Been thinking about a 29er for my next bike... but I dont think it'll fit!
     

    49869103637_6e72e44283_b.jpg

     

    Also thinking about some black stripes--- will probably order up some vinyl to try it... or maybe plastidip... we'll see been thinking about the same thing on the 510 for a while now and still havent done it... so we'll see...

     

    49869103732_e4ce3e728a_b.jpg

     

    • Like 2

  14. 16 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

    195/205 65 15

    is a little taller and fill in the wheel well better 

    195s 50 series  you really have to lower another inch almost to get the look and get rid of the wheel to fender gap

    thats why Im looking at a 65 sidewall. Its a truck so I like the wheels to have a bit of meat on them, even if it is slammed... and lowering another inch is out of the question... Id be riding on cut bymbs...

    • Like 1

  15. 14 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

    They are 195/60 15,  they fit my rims nice and I like the size, no rubbing issues, plus my speedometer is calibrated to this size tire, even though they should be the correct size, not that even matters now.......

    I am hoping they take care of the last little bit of vibration I've been feeling.. i got rid of a lot when I finally shimmed my carrier bearing....

    I plan to drive the truck alot this year so I wanted some nice tires.....


    pretty sure I’m gonna do a 195/65r15

     

    did you go sl or xl for load?

     

    i don’t ever plan on hauling anything that would require xls... but our roads are shit as you are well aware

    • Like 1

  16. On 5/6/2020 at 3:28 PM, Crashtd420 said:

    Wow so much more tread..

     

    20200506-140854.jpg

     

    20200506-150330.jpg

     

    Cant wait to go for a ride....


    Gonna motivate me to finally put some tires on the 620.... been driving it around a bunch and two of them are pretty rough...

     

    what width wheel are you running those 195s on?

     

    my 215s are two wide.... and I don’t think 205 will really get me much... 195s are XLs too in the tire I’m looking at, but they are a 1/2” shorter.... ugg decisions decisions...

    • Like 2

  17. 3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    Isn't there a grocery store in Connecticut that you need something from?

     

    Took her for a quick spin. Got a couple good on ramps on I-95 near me... those big long bendy ones with a straight in the middle... the kind where you can be well above the highway speed limit before you have even hit the last bend to merge on 😈  😈  😈  😈

    • Like 1
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