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demo243

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Posts posted by demo243


  1. 37 minutes ago, MIKEYFTW said:

    Thanks I just want to be able to use the original center console. I’m using it now with a modified  shift lever but I get a lot of hot air blowing in the car and it’s annoying. 

     

    Do you have a boot on it? 

     

    I am building a 620 with a 240sx KA right now --- I should say putting it back together... --- but it appears that the hole in the floor has not been cut larger and the stock metal cover will work. I just picked up a boot for it that is a little short... but hoping I can make it work. 

     

     


  2. I'm not positive... but I believe the bolt pattern on the blocks for the bell housing is the same, so in theory yes you could but why? You are going to have to buy both a trans and driveshaft. There has got to be plenty of the SR and 240sx KA transmission in the LA area. If you find an SR trans you can use it, just need to swap the bell housing from your KA trans over to it - behind the bell housing they are the same.


  3. 16 minutes ago, DanielC said:

    "One trick I learned is to leave the second flare just a little proud, and let the tightening of the nut bring it home. "

     

    Please explain exactly you mean by this.

    Pictures would be wonderful!

     

    By nature a double flare is a two step process. The first compressed the tube to create the outer wall of the flare, and the second collapses the tube to fold in on itself to finish it.

     

    3734_ArticleSection_M_d42c1f0e-4e91-42cf

     

    By not fully completing the second flare, it leaves the folded over portion unfinished so when you tighten down the assembly the seat finishes off the folded over portion only as far as it needs to. 

     

    Doing this helps the flare match the seat better for a tighter seal. 

     

    Not the most eloquent way of saying it....  but hope that helps makes sense.

     

     

    • Like 1

  4. On 9/7/2019 at 1:01 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    One trick I learned is to leave the second flare just a little proud, and let the tightening of the nut bring it home.

     

    This trick is huge!

     

    When I redid all the brake lines on my 510, I used the new NiCopper tubing -- which is great, very user friendly from both a bending and flaring standpoint.  Thankfully I read about that trick somewhere ahead of time and it really helps make the connection better- almost like custom fitting each flare to its connection

    • Like 1

  5. More dash progress!

     

    Initial bends

    48696425642_6e729bfb8e_z.jpg20190906_191652 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48696257521_2f88358aff_z.jpg20190906_192820 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    A little bit harder this time....I forgot that on the dash for the 510, which was only half the width... I made a few cuts first so the bends were actually pretty short.... bending the full length was pretty tough. I am using .05" aluminum for reference. I wasnt able to get as sharp of a bend this time, but I actually think it will be better and closer reflect a "stock" dash. 

     

    Taped together for test fits--- 

    48696425347_4f45f7e830_z.jpg20190907_175136 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48696257271_04a5ba612b_z.jpg20190907_175124 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48695911078_ab055a67d2_z.jpg20190907_175140 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Its a little wavy... but not bad for a garage build... hoping some matte black and gauges will help hide that.

     

    Fully folded and epoxying together

     

    48696257321_a0dc6365f9_z.jpg20190907_170219 by devon M, on Flickr

     

     

    • Like 1

  6. I've got some older WRX seats in my 510. Can't comment on how they bolt into a 620... but they arent too think in the back, sit pretty low, and arent to bad comfort wise- got good support in turns too. 

     

    Was planning on swapping them into my 620 and put some proper race seats in the 510... but my bench seat is in pretty good shape so I think I am gonna stick with that. 

     


  7. Not much to update on the 510... been spending alot of time working on the truck...

     

    I did steal away to Limerock in CT last weekend for the vintage races and drove the 510. Cruises like a champ on the highway! Although the trans is not sounding good.... need to swap the spare one in and see if its any better... 

     

    Anyway here are some photos. 

     

    Trackside camping!

    48648756597_df12151db2_z.jpg20190830_125713 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48685981632_39206127af_z.jpg20190830_130915 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Neighbors are Datsun fans too!!! 

     

    48685808691_b9bd9cf772_z.jpg20190830_105026 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    There is no racing on Sundays due to the church across the street.... but they do fill the track for a car show... and obviously had to put the 510 out there --- drew quite a lot of attention. 

     

    48685978527_097c8f6754_z.jpg20190901_121830 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    And... Dos Dattos!!!

     

    48685805416_212de00968_z.jpg20190905_204111 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48685796946_16abdfc928_z.jpg20190829_182603 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48532556747_b43ae3e819_z.jpg20190812_190110 by devon M, on Flickr

    • Like 2

  8. Not too much to update on the truck.... spent last weekend at the vintage races at Limerock in CT. Took the 510 so photos of that ill be in my 510 thread... and it means I didnt get any work done on the truck. 

     

    I did get a few more parts in, and started working on the dash. Need to figure out where to mount the catch can... doing away with the pcv on the KA

     

    My original plan in the prior post interfered with the door  handles... so this is the new plan... Its simple... but it will work

     

    48685796781_1fac487ccf_z.jpg20190905_184719 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48685969427_acb3ed14d2_z.jpg20190905_184721 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Marking up the metal! Will be using the ghetto 2x6 and 2x4 press brake. 

     

    48685796411_26302e41f7_z.jpg20190905_194035 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Dos Dattos!

     

    48685805416_212de00968_z.jpg20190905_204111 by devon M, on Flickr

     

     

    • Like 1

  9. 1 hour ago, Stephen22 said:

    I am sorry I cannot comment on the handling before the V8. 

    The front brakes have been upgraded to bigger disks and calipers from a BMW. 

    The suspension as far as I can tell is still stock. 

    What would be the first thing I should check? 

     

    Stock suspension is going to be a big part of your problem there.... Did you build the car/ have it built or did you buy it complete from someone? 

     

    These cars are light, and with that much extra weight over the stock engine and that much extra power its going to make a big difference. 

     

    Start taking a look around down there - take some photos - look for coilovers or lowering sprins, swaybars etc. Should stand out if anything has been done.  

     

    As carterb mentioned old tires or a tall tire, alignment, and worn out components could all play a big part in it as well... even crappy roads... my 510 hates truck ruts in the road, its just too narrow and doesn't fit them... so on the highway the middle lane can be terrible and the fast lane fine. 

    • Like 1

  10. 3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

    Almost everyone who has successfully completed an EFI engine swap knows that it turns out to be a lot more work than anticipated. First time swappers can be talked into or more likely fooled into the job by telling themselves that everyone else is wrong. This is pure ignorance.

     

    So if swapping in an EFI engine takes 100 hours, and making it legal takes 150 hours (or even 200 hours), why not just make that extra leap and have a legal swap? There will be almost no difference in dollars spent between a legal and non-legal swap, and if you're doing the work yourself, time is free (sort of).

     

    The donor route covers almost all of the bases where parts are concerned. You'll get the EVAP system, the exhaust with cats, the fuel tank (which you can use for pieces), plus you'll be able to easily verify that it runs before you tackle the job. Hell, you may even want to use the donor car as a run stand to make your wiring mods before you yank it apart.

     

    I think going into it knowing it will not pass emissions is a very shortsighted approach.

    And on a 620 it should be easier because I believe they share/are closely compatible with the 720s.

    • Like 2

  11. On 7/28/2019 at 11:55 AM, 5t341tH said:

    I just finished an SR swap into my 620. Time invested was about 10 months. Cost.....i don't want to talk about it. There was lots of fabricating to make things work. But in the end, it's worth it because it's fast!

     

    Exactly.... My KA swap into the 510 took about 10 months and ended up being double what I expected it to cost. Mind you I didn't skimp on anything... if something weird came up I fixed it and upgraded it--- which ended up meaning I redid all the wiring in the car, new gauges, fully built the engine, custom oil pan, got a nice fresh clutch and flywheel set up,  aluminum driveshaft.... and then some... its all the little things that add up. 

     

    We'll see how my new 620 goes.... this one I am trying to keep on a tight budget. Rolling the dice a bit and hoping its all in running condition as I was told. 

     

    Short answer is if you are mechanically inclined you can do it with any engine. Just plan on it taking longer and costing more then you expect --- as everyone has said.

     

    Being in Cali though I would definitely seriously consider doing the swap in a SMOG legal manor, even if you don't care about it. All it would take is one cop out to prove something who sends you to the ref and you have to do your swap all over. From the sounds of it I don't think it would be that much more work to do it right the first time, especially if you get your hands on a full donor car.

    • Like 1

  12.  

    Also.. Crappy photo-chop job.... but found these wheels on the f-book marketplace.... gotta try and find out what offset they are.... but the price seems right so I may just give them a shot. Gotta message the guy and see if they are still around and if I can get them on Friday.

     

    48621344572_3820da192a_z.jpg68816570_10156058317906529_6185367232592216064_n (1) by devon M, on Flickr

     

     

    Scratch this photo... I will keep it for reference and maybe future inspiration.... but the seller with these wheels was being a real pain... and the wheels were filthy... better of putting the money toward something else on the truck.... maybe later.

    • Like 4

  13. Spent some time working on the truck this weekend-

     

    Back window started! need to get a rat'n'wrenchs and a few more stickers

    48603803667_181c91ab9c_z.jpg20190822_191632 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Got my Megan Racing header in and mounted up. Clears well.. although I don't know if the 3 bolt flange will work.... looks like a prime candidate for a v-band clamp--- well see what that runs from the exhaust shop.... 

     

    48614091858_0b192b05cd_z.jpg20190824_130516 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48614444396_7932feed2e_z.jpg20190824_115541 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48614592622_62e7f439e5_z.jpg20190824_115534 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Got the intake mounted up as well. This thing is a pain in the ass--- still need to get the support in there... I think.... The wiring and bolts on this are worth running carbs on it alone!

     

    48614091708_7766ceb4c4_z.jpg20190824_190030 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Started working on the wiring and what not -- Here's what I am working with behind the dash --- the wiring is a bit messy... already found a few messy  splices... would love to rewire the truck... but it really doesn't need it. First I need to figure out what I can remove from the 240sx wiring harness.

     

    48614091513_21fde56e6a_z.jpg20190824_194240 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Changing plans on the dash as well I think... The stock unit is pretty messed up and the plastic dash cap is like putting lipstick on a pig.... its still ugly as hell....

     

    So the new plan is one big aluminum dash-- still need to figure out where I will get the metal but I think this is final plan. It will look much cleaner then the messy old dash.

     

    48620419211_c9cc68162c_z.jpg20190825_185129 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48620560932_6a6d2a8d6d_z.jpg20190825_185156 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48620418996_2f8119c577_z.jpg20190825_185552 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    48620560857_c9fdaff8a1_z.jpg20190825_185601 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Another side shot--- just cause.

     

    48620560872_05527d4943_z.jpg20190825_185831 by devon M, on Flickr

     

    Lots more work to be done.... 

     

    Wish I had a set of Mikuni 44s kicking around... I have the manifold and the edis unit and megajolt aren't too bad... I just need to wrap my head around this 240sx engine harness and figure out exactly what is needed and what isn't....

     

     

     

     

    • Like 4

  14. Not too much to update... waiting on a bunch of parts... hoping to put some solid time in on the truck this Saturday...

     

    But did a few things so far this week.

     

    Got my ebay short shifter and that solves the elbow to bench seat issue... sorry no photos... but initially I might like it more then the B&M one in the 510.

     

    Also started working on the dash--- painted the rusty metal black and it looks much nicer... got my Jegs gauges in - speedhuts are definitely nicer... but also double the price... these will do the job just fine. Started mapping out my plans for the layout too. Photo below. Oh yea got my glove box door as well... just going to need to build a box for it.

     

    20190820_161531

     

    20190820_192328

     

    Still a rough draft.... need to figure out if I want to keep the heater core... and if so I need to figure out where to mount the vent and control levers... I know I should keep it... I do live in Massachusetts... but it's so much easier to pull it... might see about mounting them below the dash to make it easier...

     

     

    Also got my mirrors in - not totally my style but the doors already have inserts for em so gonna run em. I guess these were a official datsun accessory. Only have one bracket to mount them horizontally... so they will be vertical. That's ok though

     

    20190821_190850

     

    20190821_220006

     

    More parts coming!

     

    Megan racing shorty header... single belt conversion stuff... if I'm really lucky it might be running this weekend... that might be pushing it though... gotta sort out this wiring too... and fill that back window up with stickers!

    • Like 4

  15. After doing some searching and thinking, I decided I am going to skip the factory dash bezel and gauges. I found a 6 Gauge set from JEGS for $320 which includes Speed, Tach, Fuel Level, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp, and Voltage. By the time I got a dash bezel and a tach I would be atleast at $300 and still need to get a mechanical sending unit for the KA trans to match the 620 gauges. Would have loved to go speedhut... but they are more then double... so in the budget nature of this truck I went with JEGS. I'll cut out a metal plate to fill the hole in the dash and mount the gauges too. 

     

    Will end up looking something along the lines of this... just painted black and with black gauges

     

    1977-datsun-620-king-cab-custom-built-pi

     

     

    • Like 4

  16. Got to do some digging... but looks like the intake was fully de-hosed.... gotta figure out what needs to go back and what doesn't. No worries about smog which is good--- just gotta figure this junk out... since my 510 KA has none of this with the Mikunis on the side of it. Reality I would love to carb this one... but its not in the budget right now....

     

    Also seems like 620's with standard cabs and KAs need a short shifter--- not opposed to this since the 510 has one. In the budget nature I ordered an ebay one.... we'll see how it is.

     

    48548136701_0919cff44a_z.jpg20190815_185841 by devon M, on Flickr

     

     

    • Like 1

  17. Did a little more work tonight.

     

    Got the trans mount in--- I'll give it to RedEye... those mounts make putting the engine and trans in easy!

     

    While I was down there I backed out the torsion bar bolts--- impacts make that job much easier--- backed em out till the arms were just about to hang below the xmember.

     

    Then went out back and installed the 3" lowering blocks.

     

    The rear sits right where I want it... although I might need to trim the bumps a little bit--- there is still a little bit of travel before them.

     

    The front sits a little high. Could drop 1/2-1" I think... which means I'll need to re index the torsion bars. Gonna wait till I get the engine running and everything and then deal with it. Still need to put the intake,  exhaust and radiator on which may help drop it a hair more.

     

    20190814_195548

     

    20190814_195338

     

    20190814_195433

     

    20190814_195439

     

    • Like 2

  18. 2 hours ago, wayno said:

    I would never drill holes in my doors for them crappy mirrors, I would go with 720 type mirrors or better yet clamp on the the drip rail type mirrors unless you have a set of Datsun Factory type mirrors for trucks or the period correct aftermarket type like I have on my 521 kingcab.

    DSCN0074.jpg

    I wouldnt drill holes either.... but they are all ready there... so I figure I might as well use em...

     

    Nice truck!


  19. 1 hour ago, wayno said:

    It's a ball joint front end or at least it should be, your best avenue is to buy a set of drop spindles like in the link below, I am not saying that set, just search "Nissan 720 drop spindles", keep in mind that you will need to buy brakes for a late 1986 Nissan 720(rotors/calipers/hoses) as that is what the drop spindles are made for, you can use your 620 hubs.

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Street-Edge-2-Drop-Lowering-Spindles-for-83-97-Nissan-720-D-21-Hardbody-2WD/222998840094?fits=Model%3A720&epid=17003810796&hash=item33ebc4431e:g:BpIAAOSwC9hcIqoM

     

    When you lower the front of your truck too much you will create negative camber, there is a point where it cannot be adjusted out of it, the drop spindles above will give you a 2" drop, another inch is no big deal and you will still have a decent ride.

    When you loosen your bolts on the cross member there will be a point when the arms drop below the cross member and if you drag them on the ground it can destroy them, this is the purpose of re-indexing them, so they do not drag on the ground.

     

    There is more involved with drop spindles though, you cannot use stock 14" wheels with them unless you modify your lower control arm, also your tie rods will need to be trimmed, you can likely get away with lowering it by loosening the bolts, you possibly may have to re-index your torsion bars, but if you use this truck as a truck your ride will suffer.

     

     

     

     

     

    Great info! Thanks!

     

    Right now I am working to keep this truck on a pretty tight budget... so I think drop spindles are out of the budget... its money that would be better put toward a welder for this truck i think.

     

    I've got my Tacoma for daily duties and real truck duties. 

     

    I'm gonna start by loosening the bolts... and if it isnt enough I will re-index them.

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