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demo243

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Posts posted by demo243


  1. 5 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

     

    You don't have to weld them. For $20 get 2" split collars and clamp under the spring perch. If you don't like the height, loosen reposition and tighten them again... in other words they are adjustable for $20. Each split collar is rated at 5,000 pounds. That's 2 1/2 510 weight per strut.

     

     

     

    ^^^ this is true. Thats actually how my car was set up when I bought it. I swapped to coilovers for more adjustability, but I am still running the clamps - I got lucky and my housings were already shortened.

    If he needs to have someone cut and weld his housings though to shorten them, might as well have them weld those perches back on if going that route... 


  2. 27 minutes ago, Tuan said:

    THE HEIGHT OF THE TUBES IS WHAT BOTHERS ME.  

     

    ALL OTHER DIMENSIONS SEEM TO BE THE SAME. 

     

    SAME CALIPERS (510 CALIPERS)

    SAME HUBS 

    SAME ROTORS

    SAME BACKING PLATE

    SAME SPRINGS

    SAME TOP HATS. 

     

    IM NOT SURE IF THESE CAME ON THE CAR BUT CAME ON THE CAR WHEN I GOT THEM. 

     



    There are a number of potential reasons for this... The most likely is that at some point under a prior owner the car was in a small accident, bumped a curb or something and bent a spindle. The owner went to the local junk yard and grabbed a spare strut without giving it a second thought - as Hainz pointed out there are 3 different lengths depending on what year. The owner probably never took the other side off to even compare. With how old these cars are and how many hands they have changed through its not too surprising to see this. 

     

    9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

    510 had 3 strut lengths

    68 69 were short

    then the Longest  70/71

    theen a mid size late 71 72

     



    The easy solution is to cut them as hainz said. Either convert it to a coil over with a T3/Ground control kit, or go the cheap route and re-weld the stock perch on. 

     

    9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

    cut the tubes the same then your fine. but make sure the spring seat perch is high enough to put the tire on and not hit it if you run a +25 rim  15x7 rim

    Means perch welded in the right spot as 510 want more + off set rim  I went with a 7in spring instead of common 8in



    The other option is to ditch them and go 280zx set up which gives you a brake upgrade at the same time. Just don't trash em! At the very least give them away to someone. Some of us still run 510 strut housings and havent gone the 280zx route. 


  3. 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

    I did find that the oil drain plug gasket from my 2012 nissan frontier will fit the gas tank drain plug on my 521

    20210124_123431.jpg


    Off Topic--- But... Seeing that you are using what looks like Nissan copper crush washers--- are you using Nissan Filters on that frontier? 

    I refuse to use the Nissan filters on my KAs in the 510 and the 620! Their rubber gasket is very thin and fragile, and are what I believe caused the 510 to puke all its oil out when i first got the KA up and running.  Just a heads up! On my Tacoma I run Toyota OEM... but on the Dattos I have been running the Bosche filters. Need to do some more research on them, but they had a nice big rubber gasket. 

    Back on topic... Truck is coming along nicely! Hopefully I'll get my sway bars from FutoFab soon... That way I can keep up! 

    • Like 1

  4. Found the cam I was running as well - 

    Comp Cam's # 79-131-6 Grind # 280S . 
    2000-6000rpm; Adv. Dur. 280 Int./Exh.; Valve Lift .460 Int

    Just for reference. 

    I think 40's will be fine - My buddy B^2 is running 40's on his L20b and one of the Cali Guys ran 40's on his L20b, but both were "stock" engines. 

    With the work your planning I would just do some research and double check, since 45s may suit your engine better.

    • Like 1

  5. Thinking back on it too... My L20b originally had DCOM 40s on it. I swapped to Mikuni 44s after one of the Weber mounting ears broke off. Its been a while, but i do recall the car having better mid-top end power w/ the 44s... but thats was only on the butt dyno.

    • Like 1

  6. 34 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

     

    I'm not completely sure. If you look at the Weber charts, a displacement of 500cc per cylinder at 6k RPM requires a choke of 36mm. Wouldn't 40's be enough at that point?

     

    Keep in mind though that a 36mm choke is the largest choke you can run on a 40. Where as a 36mm choke is smack in the middle of the range for a 45.

    Here is what I ran in my Mikuni 44s per Todd's recommendation. Ill have to do some digging on what cam I was running. CR was unknown , but running some dished Ross Pistons and a w58 head --- edit looking back at old posts, the head was decked and ported.
     

    IMG_5867

     

     

    Just something to think about

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  7. 1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

     

    110hp? A roadster U20 with side-drafts was advertised at 150hp. 

     

    It is my hope that my L20b gets somewhere close to that. My goal is 130. And so what if the clutch grabs harder?

    -mild cam

    -bigger intake valves, and worked head

    -bored to 86.5mm

    -flat tops bringing compression to >10:1

    -dual Weber DCOE40's

     

    I don't think it's that far fetched.


    With all that in mind you may want to bump up to Weber 45s. I ran Mikuni 44s on my L20b after talking with the late Todd Walrich of Wolf Creek. His reasoning was you can easily choke down the 44s and its helps in the actual usable power range of these engines. Once you start messing with Cams and compression 40's end up running out as the revs go up. Per Todd, for a stock L20b crusing around 40s are fine, but for anything modified or with the intent of more spirited driving 44(45 webers) are better.  

    Just something to think about. 

    • Like 1

  8. 1 hour ago, FrankRizzo said:

     

    Hey Demo - I'd love to see how you eliminated your booster. Did you tap the firewall? I'd love to get rid of mine, but thought it needed some kind of adapter?


    I made a plate to replace the booster pedestal. Re-used the studs from the pedestal to bolt the plate to the fire wall and then bolted the master to the plate. I need to go back on of these days and remake it with a slightly thicker aluminum... there is a touch of flex, but its what I had on hand... I had to pick up a new push rod as well, but grabbed one from Summit and made a few small tweaks too it. Its all spelled out in my thread, linked to specific posts below. Let me know if you have any questions. 
     

    20200401_152701

     



    End thread jack...

     

     

    1 hour ago, breezenahan said:

    engine looks to be a bit closer than it is in reality, but i think thats about where we want it to be, as far back as possibly with acceptable clearance to keep the maximum amount of weight behind the front wheels 

     

    it was a bummer the blades were too much for our truck, but i think these will look even better and have the added value of being unobtanium.

     


    Totally on board with getting it as far back as possible. Did that with the KA in my 510 by having the iron mounts set back a bit. 

    Get this thing done this winter! We'll get @Crashtd420 and @mainer311 and go cruising in trucks this spring!

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  9. Saw your saw blades on Facebook... want to run them so bad... but no way they will fit for me... those OZs are RAD!

     

    Damn that engine is close to the firewall!

     

    I actually ditched the booster on my 620... but that’s a bit of a personal preference since my 510 doesn’t have one and my booster was shot anyway. 280zx could be a possibility for you for an upgraded master- it’s what a lot of the 510 guys run, myself included. It’s a 15/16” front and rear disc set up. Don’t know about booster compatibility though... but if your running bigger calipers the bigger volume could be helpful. You’d have to do some research though to confirm the fitment.

     

    truck looks to be coming along nicely!!!

    • Like 1

  10. 12 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

    I'm dieing to drive mine...

    On the topic of garage heat I use an open flame style propane heater, it heats the garage up real quick.... the radiant style aren't bad but they dont move the air much, but you can mount them up out of the way... you could probably use a small fan blowing up to force circulation..... 

     

    I’ll probably pull em out one of these days to at least start em up and run em. The 620 has a bad fuel line from the tank though... seaping pretty good when running...

     

    The current garage is pretty small so I was thinking one of the radiant ones maybe... either way there isn’t much room to do much work in their anyway...

     

    I can’t wait for spring!!!! Just want to drive em and cruise and hopefully hit up a cars and coffee or something... hopefully this COVID thing settles down again. 


  11. 2 minutes ago, mrbigtanker said:

    United is a company that caters to Semi Trucks. Wow they fit, cool.


    Haven’t tried them in the headlight buckets  yet... but they are the right diameter.

     

    Not bad for an H4 conversion either for someone who wants to do that... with or without the leds

    • Like 1

  12. Winter time here in the NE... so not much going on with the dattos... to much salt on the roads to drive them, and there isn’t enough space or heat to really work on them in the garage... thinking about maybe getting a wall mount heater, but we’ll see...

     

    Anyway picked up some new headlights for the 510. One of the things I miss about running the air funnel is not having my yellow fogs as running light. Was looking at an H4 conversion for another post (mine are already converted) and stumbled upon these lamps with amber leds on the bottom.

     

    50818905496_7a6eef6220_b.jpg


    Took a few minutes and ghetto rigged em up to the 620 since it was easier to access. The LEDs seem a bit dim... bummer... but voltage was low and the wiring was sketchy at best... so hopefully they will be brighter with full voltage. If not oh well... only about $60 bucks...

     

    50819003917_f4fcd7be89_b.jpg

     


  13. 72-Datsun-PL-510_num20-DV-11-WG_01-800.j

    This car started it all for me. I was looking for something I could turn into a "dedicated" race/autoX car. Something I didn't need to worry about driving to work on Monday. I went to the vintage races at Limerock and saw Mike killing it with this 510, running up there with the Z cars. That was when I decided it had to be a 510. 

    Found a 4 door down in MD that had been "prep'ed" or raced at some point and dove in headfirst. The car has no spent alot more time on the street, but still has a trackday/autoX focus. 

    Hoping at this point to find a 2 door to turn into a full prep'ed car and turn the 4 door into more of a street "hot rod", now that I have the 620 to use as a fun truck/parts runner. 

    • Like 4

  14. Haven't done an SR swap, but on my KA in both my 510 and my 620 I used a 240sx cable. It does end up "swooping" across the engine, but large "swoopy" bends are much better for throttle actuation and reducing any cable drag. 

    Back when I was running an L20b in my 510 I used the same 240sx cable, but shortened it down since the carbs were on the same side as the pedal. 

     

    To shorten it, just separate the cable and housing, trim the housing down to length then run the cable and shorten it to the appropriate length and use a barrel nut.

    As with pretty much anything with these cars any swap requires some tweaks and messing around with stuff, even with any available "bolt in" parts. 

    This is the setup in my 620 - The cable comes out from the firewall, runs along the valve cover - using the plug wire holder as a guide- wraps up over the valve cover and down to the throttle body.  I am happy with how smooth it is, and felt it was cleaning then crossing over mid valve cover.
     

    20191006_181114

     

    • Like 1

  15. 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

     

     

    Besides that, 510s bring a premium these days. A- that's not the type of racer I want to hang around and B- I could build two Sprites for the price of one 510.

     

    Thats the biggest fight I have with myself... I could easily pick up something like a sprite or a ready to race first gen RX7 for less then I'll probably get a 510 shell for... 

    End of the day though, I love the 510, and doubt I will ever competitively race it so it is more a personal project/fun car for me - hence autoX and track days. Might as well build something I am drawn to at that point. 

    I have a buddy who built a bug eye spite for AutoX though and that thing was RAD! Looking forward to seeing how yours comes together!

    • Like 1

  16. 29 minutes ago, ]2eDeYe said:

    If you have the throttle adjusted to keep for cold idle you IACV will not work correctly.

    Have you pulled codes? Do you have a thread?

     

    -end hijack. 

     

    How wide is the boxer engine? 

    I do in my sig.

     

    always wanted to throw a turbo boxer Subaru engine in one of these... although I’m a big fan of keeping it in the family... I bet changing spark plugs would be a bitch!!! Gotta pull the engine 


  17. 2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

    O2 is open loop while engine warms up. One of the inputs to the ECU is a temperature sensor. When warmed up the system goes into closed loop mode and the mixture is regulated with input from the O2 sensor. It also goes into open loop at full throttle when the mixture is run richer for better power output and the O2 sensor output is ignored.

     

    So look at the temperature sensor and the throttle position switch. It may think the engine is cold or at full throttle all the time

    I’ll check those out.

     

    Don’t want to jack this guys thread... but... Doesn’t idle cold, so the idle is set mechanically and require hold it open a little bit on start up. Once warm it’s ok- makes me think that’s IACV related. Then once it’s running with the O2 plugged in it will drive fine and then suddenly fall flat on it’s face, then run fine again. Always stumbles right at the least opportune moment, like pulling out into traffic... with the O2 unplugged it’s runs fine, but very rich (stinks), and isn’t quite as peppy. I’ve got the engine stripped down as much as possible so that all probably doesn’t help either... might try and carb it like my 510 is this summer, potentially with bike carbs, kinda interested in a Mikuni HSR conversion.
     

    The only major complaint I have with the KA is how tight everything is in and around this intake... makes it a pain working on it...


    Anyway, sorry to thread jack OPs post...

     

    • Like 1

  18. 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

    We need to do a mini truck run this spring just for fun.... I didnt get to go to one car show last year because of covid....

    We definitely do!

     

    Never made it to a single show this season...

     

    Drove the shit out of the 620 this summer though. Put over 1,000 miles on it! Pretty good for not having a commute or anything to really do hahaha.

     

    There was a new cars and coffee up in Andover that started up. Kept meaning to get up there but didn’t make it. Hoping they do it again next summer.

    • Like 2

  19. 4 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

    If you were closer I'd be happy to.....

    Luckily I dont think I know anyone close enough to have to bother..... 

     

    My driveway is small enough any way... only takes a about 4 passes with the snowblower. just need to strategically place the cars to take up a lot of space so there is less to actually clear.

    • Like 2

  20. I vote KA! 

    I am really happy with the KA in my 620 - and its not even running at tip top shape (super rich, I think its in loop mode as I figure out an O2 sensor issue) 

    SR would be great and slightly lighter, but remember on of the big benefits of the KA is its displacement and low end torque. Especially on a wheeling rig where you dont want to have to ring the engine out all the time.

    KA is a super easy swap too, about as drop/bolt in as you can get if you use RedEyes mounts. Just need some exhaust work and a driveshaft.  The Megan Racing/Knock off header clears the steering box and linkage. With a angled flange coming off it you can clear it inside of the torsion bar too with a 2.5" pipe. 

    You'll notice wheel and tire weight savings far sooner then 100lbs of engine weight... hell by the time you load up the cooler with beer and ice you probably adding that 100lbs back in 🍻

    • Like 1

  21. 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

    On a side note , this arrived today....

    Plow for the nissan frontier....

    Wife added the awesome,  I guess she's glad she wont have to help me shovel....

     

    Some assembly required, hopefully I can get it built quick, snow in 3 days.....

    40198.jpeg

    Now I gotta get you to come plow mine!! Hahaha 

    • Like 1

  22. Not much to update... We are in late fall earlier winter here in the Northeast so its getting cold... had a big snow over halloween, but was able to get the truck out again the other week. Was fun to get it out there, but looks like one of my fuel lines is going bad as I had a good weep from the tank--- thinking on it now it could be that the hose used is not up to the pressure/pull from the fuel pump... 

    Took advantage of FutoFab's Cyber Monday and picked up a set of sway bars! Excited for them... but we'll see when I get them on.

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