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demo243

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Posts posted by demo243


  1. The Champion and Koyo radiators for the L series are very close to the stock size. You should be able to find some measurements from them. 

    JEGS and Summit Racing will let you search radiators by size and inlet/outlet and other options --- Understanding that you might not be able to order from them... they are a very good resource for part numbers for both aftermarket and oem options

    • Like 1

  2. If you pump the pedal does it build any pressure and get stiffer? Easier to feel with the truck off since the booster is out of the equation then.

    I've had issues with a bad master before where the lines bleed clean... but it was still pulling air in through the master-- so it would bleed clean and feel good... but then be soft and if I bled the master again I would get more air out of it.

    I might be having the same problem in my 620 now... could not get it bleed with the 2 person method... tried speed bleeders, but the ones I got didnt sit well in the caliper/wheel cylinder.... finally got a vacuum bleeder which helped--- allows me to build a solid pedal feel in 1 1/4 pumps on the pedal... but still not right, leading me to believe there is still air in the system. I think it maybe getting in through the bleeders as I bleed the system --- I need to pull the bleeders and tape them then try again.


    A note of caution on the 2 person bleed method--- I think it has a tendency to do damage on our old master cyclinders where the seals may not be as soft as they once were... 


  3. It was cold and windy today... but I braved it and did a quick ghetto alignment
     

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    20200208_141853


    I'll check it again when it gets warmer... but it was about an 1" toe'ed in before and now its about 3/16ths toe'ed in - much closer to spec.

    With the toe alignment done it was time to drive her! 

    A few laps around the block to get the steering wheel as straight as possible... and I was off!

    Took it to the gas station to fill her up with some good Shell 93

     

    Then off to Tractor Supply - I think Im going to pick up a Stall Mat to use as a Bed Mat. Took a look today but didnt buy.
     

    20200208_153956


    Then stopped on my way home to grab some brewskies
     

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    Definitely going to be a fun truck! 

    Next stop is definitely the exhaust shop! I think I am partially deaf now from the hacked exhaust dumping underneath the driver seat....

    Ran into a slight issue with it studdering... right around 2k rpm when at partial throttle it bogged down and nearly died... then it got pretty hot--- nearly 220.... seams like the same problem I had on the 510 which is that the thermostat on the KA is in a terrible place requiring the hot coolant to back track out to it to open.... instead of being forced against it by the water pump.... Will probably relocated the thermostat to the upper rad hose at some point like I did on the 510, its just much more consistent when it opens...

     

    Still needs some brake love too... it quickly builds pressure with one pump, and will stop even without pumping it... but not as good as I would like... Thinking about pulling the booster and going with a 15/16th 280zx master --- same as I have on the 510. I know it takes more effort... but as soon as your on the pedal your on the brakes, and the feedback is much better... we'll see....
     

    20200208_161401


    Hard Parked for now! 

    Hopefully exhaust Saturday... then I am going to rip the shit out of this truck ALL THE TIME! 

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  4. 3 hours ago, alexg89 said:

     

     

    Also scored a Fidanza light weight fly wheel last night for 100 bucks so im pretty excited about that 

     

    Off topic a bit... but interested to hear you experience with this once you get it installed....

     

    I'm running one on my DE with the 240sx 5 speed and an aluminum driveshaft on my 510 and my trans sounds like tin can full of gravel on decel... sounds like some others have had similar experiences with the light weight flywheel... and that a heavier one quiets the noise--- I'm wondering if there isn't enough inertia to keep things from "bouncing" off each other in the trans.... revs real quick though...


  5. Make sure your plug wires are correct.

     

    And if you dropped the oil pump while doing rebuild make sure the shaft is correct as well.

     

    180 degrees off on the shaft will not allow it to fire - might backfire here an there but won't go

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  6. You can do it cold, but readjust it later...

     

    As Wayno said though... I doubt it's the valve lash... total lack of compression across all cylinders leads me to believe the cam isn't timed right... so your valves are all open at the wrong time

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  7. Fel pro should be ok.

     

    Did you take the head off with the lower assembly set to TDC?

     

    Was the head set to TDC to match?

     

    Set the valve lash? - its supposed to be done warm... but this would at least ensure your within the realm of where you need to be - just gotta make sure both the lower and head are at matching TDC set up to ensure there is no valve interference 

     

     

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  8. What did you use as a reference to put the engine back together? Ie did you download a factory service manual or a Haynes manual? 

     

    Did you follow all the steps? Did you double check yourself after each step?Did you take notes?

     

    When you took the head off did you wedge the timing chain? Or did you retime the whole engine? Got the right TDC?

     

    When I built my ka I taped a few sheets of paper to my work bench. Allowed me to take notes of torque specs, and order of tightening... etc... and I printed the factory service so I could actually check off steps.

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  9. Stole a few more hours today. Put it up and put a vacuum on the brake lines-it's better, actually driveable... but still not 100%- I think I was pulling air through the bleeder threads, need to pull them and tape them...

     

    Got my license plate light working too.

     

    Just need the alignment and then I can drive it more then up and down the street--- which means I can get it down to the exhaust shop.

     

    Hopefully alignment this week-  well see if the weather cooperates....


  10. Fyi-

     

    Fixed my rich issue with some new injectors- picked em up off Ebay rebuilt from some one with good reviews.

     

    Also for anyone looking for a direct from the coil tach signal on an s13 ka24de with the external coil- I used the green and black wire - tapped into it where it was already spliced 

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  11. 3 hours ago, Eric said:

    you probably had a clogged up injector, i had the exact same thing on my sr20, had the injectors cleaned and running sweet now. 

    Would make sense since the issue started after I ran it out of gas and who knows what is in that tank.... which reminds me I need to check the fuel filter too

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  12. Stole some time this afternoon... picked up one of those cheap wifi camera things so I could see down into the intake and block without removing everything... glad I did! Was able to find the larger of the plastic pieces and snag it with one of those claw things... still missing a smaller piece of plastic... but no where to be seen...

     

    Then I got the new injectors installed--- just picked up some refurb'ed ones off ebay from someone with good reviews , cost 80 for all 4 instead of 80 for one...--- plugged everything back in and fired it up! 

     

    Little bit of smoke... but slowly started to clear up... and actually stopped dripping... so definitely running better. Maybe I got a clogged injector?

     

    Also figured out which wire to use off the coil to tap into for the tack - tapped into the green and black wire off the coil and hooked it up to the coil - spot on the tach and it works!!!! Still hacked as a test... but will work for now till it warms up.

     

    Up next is alignment and exhaust... actually still need too get the brakes dialed... they are still soft...


  13. So we had a nice day in New England so I figured I would get out there and do some work....

    Adjusted the drums a bit tighter which helped the brake pedal... but still not right. Pick up a vacuum bleeder to try that to see if I can pull any more of the crud and air out of the lines.

     

    Then decided to look into the rich condition a bit. Plugging and unplugging the MAF didnt seem to make a difference... but it was literally dripping out of the exhaust.... 

     

    I had a whole plant... but then decided I would pull the injectors.... Yea... pulled the first, no problem... pulled the second and the filter got stuck.... pulled the third and well shit--- the oring, plastic tip  and spacer above the oring got stuck in the hole.... tried to carefully grab them, was able to catch the oring... but both plastic pieces fell in...

    Well shit. Went to orielly and grabbed a grabber tool and went fishing--- no luck... turned it over with the starter a few times and didnt hear anything crunch... so at this point I think Im gonna just get some new injectors, fire it up, and hope the plastic pieces get blown out the exhaust..... 

    Bugger.... 

    Starting to really think about throwing carbs on this KA... but that adds alot of cost to this build....

    20200126_153739

     

    • Like 1

  14. Long time no updates... car is tucked away in the garage for winter. I've pulled it out and ran it for a few minutes... but that's it...

     

    Starting to have some thoughts about cutting out the roll bar.... 

     

    Still think I want the option of having one...it will always be a bit of a race car... but thinking a bolt in for the couple days a year it sees track use might be nice to allow for some rear seats...

     

    I think  Busta Nut put some prelude seats in the back of his four door... looking to see about maybe put an wrx seat in the rear of a 4 door?!?!?

     

    Might just be the winter doldrums messing with my head....

     

    Also need to plan on doing all the bushings up front and maybe some new lower control arms and rods in the spring


  15. 28 minutes ago, WAGON JON said:

    Great build so far. Do you have a O2 sensor fitted?

     

    Thanks 

     

    I do but that could be part of the problem... it's got a 1 wire 02 on the 4th runner on the header. Could not figure out if it was a 1 or 3 wire or where the original harness plug was... so I threw the 1 wire on there and connected it right to the ecu.

     

    The weird thing is I didnt run soooo rich when I first got it running. Only after i ran it out of gas did it start running as rich as it is

    • Like 1

  16. Double post # 2

     

    Second thing --- 

     

    Took some photos of the coil wiring... didnt get a chance to look into anything, but figured it would be worth posting. 

     

    This is on my S13 KA24DE

     

    20200112_155906

     

    20200112_155908

     

    20200112_155924

     

    20200112_155928

     

    20200112_155930

     

    Need to figure out the best spot to tap into for the negative coil wire for the tach

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  17. Double posting here..... 

     

    First--- The KA in the truck is running SUPER RICH! like dripping fuel rich --- this was dripping out of the header -- not oil - seems to be gas

     

    20200112_154659

     

    This is the darkest plug 

     

    20200112_154005

     

    This was the lightest

     

    20200112_153917



    I know the Idle Air Control is not working... since It when started it wouldnt hold an idle, had to manually hold the throttle open to get it to run, right now have the the throttle stop opened up to hold idle... shouldnt make it run that rich though.... 

    maybe my O2 sensor? Only have a single one wire O2 running from the #4 cylinder in the header to the ECU... might not be right... 

    Truck drives ok, but does seem to be "smoking" a bit when left to idle.... 

     

     

    I dont know if this makes a difference or not...

    But when I first started it, it was not running this rich... the other weekend when I went to bring it down to get registered I think I ran it out of fuel while pulling it onto the trailer.... thats when it started this "smoking" and puking fuel out of the header thing...

    Also probably doesnt help that I am currently killing power to the whole truck --- including ecu--- everytime I turn it off --- I am assuming this is reseting the ECU every time

    • Like 1

  18. Came home early from skiing this weekend due to some unusually warm temps... 65 in January?!?!?

     

    Ready for some Ratsun Shit? 

     

    Temporary exhaust until I get it aligned and to the exhuast shop- only cost a few bucks so worth it to me... 

     

    20200112_153020

     

    20200112_153026

     

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    Hangs really low... forgot to grab a photo of it on the ground... Ill grab one tomorrow. Actually like the sound of it! who knows what muffler it is though... picked it up randomly years ago.

    Truck is running rich as SHIT! Literally dripping fuel out of the exhaust... Ill post something up in the KA thread to see what if anyone has any thoughts.

     

    This was the darkest plug

    20200112_154005

     

    This was the lightest plug

     

    20200112_153917

     

    As I said... dripping raw fuel out of the exhaust

     

    20200112_154700

     

    20200112_154659

     

     

    Also grabbed some shots of the coil wiring--- need to work through this to pick out the best place to grab the negative signal for the tach 

    20200112_155906

     

    20200112_155924

     

    20200112_155928

     

    20200112_155930

     

     

    • Like 1

  19. Watching this.... out of interest... 

    I believe the 2nd and 3rd gen Tacomas with the TRD Offroad Package use a electric booster/ABS unit. I also think they are very expensive to replace...

    Someone had a post on here somewhere about an electric vacuum pump used to power the stock vacuum booster.  

     


  20. 1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

    I don't have a colour diagram but do have this one,

    e.c.c.s.-wiring-diagram-of-1991-nissan-2


    hmmm not coming out large enough to really read... 

    Found a couple of diagrams on Jim Wolfe's website that spell out the coil negative... but they are for the 95+ S14 KA24DEs... need to do some digging. 

     

    Here are the links for anyone interested

    http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/DISTRIBUTOR SR KA CHANGE CAR TO EXT COIL AND TRANSISTER.PDF

    http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/MSD TO SR 240SX.PDF

    • Like 1
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