demo243

@Crashtd420 Swap it in! Get her back on the road! Im planning on hitting J day at Larz Anderson this year as long as the weather holds out. I will probably regret it as the Topsfield Fair is in town that weekend which means I will likely end up sitting in traffic to get home, but always a good showing there.

That is GNARLY! But an interesting reminder to me... I had a similar breakage issue with my old filters way back when! Crazy that yours totally broke off like that! I caught mine before it got that bad, the weld popped on the faceplate. That's when I changed to the UNI filters... but thinking now about swapping back to a K&N that has the same mount.... hmmmm...

Looks like you just used to pieces of flat aluminum is that correct?

I do believe/recall that the K&N oval filters are an actually closer to circle and do require some outer edge to hold them in place. But also agree that an inner lip would be useful. I was planning on using a single through bolt/spacer to hold clamp the filter, but that could be adjusted to two. TBD this is all still a concept and we’ll see if it comes to reality… I just think a clear outer cover to show off the air horns on the 510 and the slides on the Z would be pretty cool

Another Z update. Took her down to the local exhaust shop to have the 1320 muffler installed. They did a nice job reusing the existing MSA piping to keep the mandrel bends. It was pretty reasonable $ wise since it took less then an hour. Very happy with the results! Tucked up nicely, looks much better than that cheap chrome tip and rusty clamp. The sound is on a whole different level of amazing! The true straight six chorus rings out now! Surprisingly not too bad at idle. Best video clip I have at the moment- a bit of traffic so couldn’t run it out- should have kept recording too for all burbles and pops as I let off the throttle… I’ll try and get another one soon.

Thanks!

Says they will both cut and bend poly. https://sendcutsend.com/materials/polycarbonate/ My thought is match the oval filter template and bend over a couple tabs/flanges to keep the filters in place- top and bottom, maybe on the ends too. Im less worried about the 510 since I can get off the shelf K&N filters kits for the PhH carbs. Although it would still be cool if to have the poly front on them. The Z will take a little more thinking since the HSRs use a friction fit adapter with a different bolt pattern.

Cross posting from my Z thread- So I have an idea…. I’ve been thinking about air filters. The Uni filters were always meant to be “temporary” with the end goal being a big ITG filter. BUT… the ITG filters are very expensive, and they are foam. In looking at how the Uni foam filters have held up on the 510 I’m not sold on the foam…. I started to do some digging on a big K&N filter and came across this- But unfortunately it looks like all the “lambo” filters are discontinued… So then I started looking into DCOE/PHH filters but I can’t find one with a blank backing plate to cut my own holes…. So now I’m thinking about a possible send cut send project for an aluminum backing plate with clear polycarbonate front plate utilizing the K&N filter too can get for $50. It seems it’s time to replace the foam Uni filters on the 510… So I think I’m going to order the K&N filters and assembly for the 510 and use them as a test for the Z as well.

So I have an idea…. I’ve been thinking about air filters. The Uni filters were always meant to be “temporary” with the end goal being a big ITG filter. BUT… the ITG filters are very expensive, and they are foam. In looking at how the Uni foam filters have held up on the 510 I’m not sold on the foam…. I started to do some digging on a big K&N filter and came across this- But unfortunately it looks like all the “lambo” filters are discontinued… So then I started looking into DCOE/PHH filters but I can’t find one with a blank backing plate to cut my own holes…. So now I’m thinking about a possible send cut send project for an aluminum backing plate with clear polycarbonate front plate utilizing the K&N filter too can get for $50. It seems it’s time to replace the foam Uni filters on the 510… So I think I’m going to order the K&N filters and assembly for the 510 and use them as a test for the Z as well.

Still kicking! Had to get something out of the corner of the garage so I pushed her out. Best proof of road worthiness I have right now.... Transmission still sounds like shit... maybe worse? Or maybe Im just getting used to the Z which is much quieter in every aspect... Funny how different of a car this is then the Z. The Z is such a cruiser and this is just a beast - close upright seating position; quick reving, quick steering; loud and obnoxious; the list keeps going.... Still a freaking blast to drive though!

Car successfully made it out to Lime Rock and back! Really did great after a few last minute adjustments. I wanted to roll it out there on the TBT wheels with the Fallen 660s since it just looks so much more bad ass... but I started loading gear in and went to push it back in the garage and the exhaust hung up on the lip... raised the rear end a half inch, but ultimately decided it was a better idea to throw my shoulder/storage season wheels on there as they give me another half inch of height. The Mass Pike is constantly under construction or paving and I was a bit worried about dragging flanges the whole way. Camp set up! Ultimately very glad I raised the rear end and swapped wheels - the Pike was BRUTAL! but we survived. The car did great as I said and even got 22mpg with my 6 pack of carbs. It was a really good test of the carbs as well with no issues. Luckily avoided most the traffic but did sit in a little bit on the way home. What ever radiator is in this car works! 85 degrees out stopped in traffic after 2 hrs of driving and it still sits right below 180 degrees. I must be sucker for punishment though... came home Sunday and on Monday I swapped the wheels back out for the 660s and dropped the rear end again and took her out to run a few errands. Saw this new Z parked out front and had to swing back around to snap a photo at the local dealer. Just another hard parked grocery getter

Noticing the missing out was pretty eye opening! Loosing a wheel is probably one of my biggest fears…

With a little further digging - mostly for piece of mind - I found this ARP torque chart https://arpinstructions.com/generaltorque.html ARP GENERAL TORQUE RECOMMENDATIONS Listed below are the general torque recommendations for bulk 5-packs and engine/accessory fasteners. Recommended torque is equal to 75% of the fastener's yield strength. Simply read down to the correct fastener size, then across to find the torque value for your application. Always use ARP Ultra-Torque® and follow the instructions below to ensure the correct preload is created. Recommended Torque to Achieve Optimum Preload (Clamping Force) Using ARP Ultra-Torque® Fastener Assembly lubricant* Note: For those using Newton/meters as a torquing reference, you must multiply the appropriate ft./lbs. factor by 1.356 Fastener Diameter Fastener Tensile Strength 170,000 / 180,000 (PSI) ( 1,171 Nmm2 ) 190,000 / 200,000 (PSI) ( 1,300 Nmm2 ) 220,000 (PSI) ( 1,515 Nmm2 ) TORQUE* ( Ft. / Lbs. ) PRELOAD ( Lbs. ) TORQUE* ( Ft. / Lbs. ) PRELOAD ( Lbs. ) TORQUE* ( Ft. / Lbs. ) PRELOAD ( Lbs. ) 1/4″ 12 3,492 14 3,967 16 4,442 5/16″ 24 5,805 28 6,588 32 7,371 3/8″ 45 8,622 50 9,782 55 10,942 7/16″ 70 11,880 80 13,470 90 15,060 1/2″ 110 16,391 125 18,515 140 20,639 9/16″ 160 21,220 180 23,944 200 26,668 5/8″ 210 26,372 240 29,756 270 33,140 6 mm 11 3,359 13 3,814 15 4,269 8 mm 24 5,801 28 6,581 32 7,361 10 mm 54 9,970 62 11,305 70 12,640 11 mm 72 12,184 82 13,961 92 15,738 12 mm 98 14,472 112 16,949 125 19,425 14 mm N/A N/A 184 22,771 205 25,730 16 mm N/A N/A 244 29,664 272 33,519 The 100-7708 Wheels studs are 190,000 psi rated which puts them at a recommended torque of 112 ft/lbs for maximum hold. This spec is at 75% of the yield strength of the stud so I can hold higher torque then that. With a 25% reduction for the anti-seize I used on the rears that takes 112 down to 84 - right where I torqued them to, so I should still be well within the yield strength of the studs. As mentioned I will be going back and cleaning off the the studs and lugs to ensure proper torque is achieved. Looking at the Permatex site it does specifically say " Not for wheel stud or lug use" --- Whoops! Big mistake on my part.

Shit… you are right. I totally spaced and forgot about that…. Which means I definitely over torqued those Z car depot studs. Damn in trying to save the threads in setting the studs I’ve done more harm. Either way- 65 ft lbs is in my opinion to low to run with big super sticky tires… Ive got the back 8 ARPs in and torqued them to 85… so I’m close to ARPs recommended max torque when you factor in the anti seize factor. I got one side of the fronts in but not torqued as I need someone to hold the brake to torque those down. I guess I’ll be going back with some good brake cleaner and cleaning off those threads! Thanks for catching that! This is what I love about forums and why I wish more people were still active on them.

Thanks! If they give me trouble I’ll try that freezer trick. My plan is to get them started with the impact and then finish with a rachet/torque wrench. Hoping ~85ft/lbs should get them seated- TBD…. I’ve got two of those lisle stud installers. One I snagged for the first round of studs and the other I got with the spindle pin tool (RIP to the rest of that tool…) I was using some anti seeze on the threads and a spare lug (I’ve got 20 and only need 16).