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gumby510

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Everything posted by gumby510

  1. I have no doubt in what your saying. Not liking the sound of denting a header in, especially sense im having a custom one built. Where was the clearance needed? I can take that into consideration when I have the header built. Otherwise ill end up sticking with the vagueness of the steering box.
  2. I also considered cutting up a z pan, to change the engine tilt thats custom mounts and depending on the amount one might have modify the exhaust too. Im running a 280z wide 5 speed. Dont get me wrong, I know the jbc setup is better without a doubt. Is it that much better to where it is worth all this extra work.
  3. Z20 oil pan won't work. Z series engines are tilted to the left side of vertical about 8 degrees. L series engines are tilted 12 degrees to the right of vertical, so a difference of 18 degrees. A Z oil pan on an L engine would see the right bottom side the lowest point on the car http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=34161&start=15 3rd to last post on the 2nd page
  4. Its been on my list for a few years now. Im staying L series and 1 issue ive had is finding a front sump oil pan and pickup. Well and theres the fact I have the t3 gtx2 control arm and tc rod setup and jcb states its not ideal.
  5. Alright I'm trying to decide between upgrading my outer tie rods, idler arm bearings and steering box brace Or The jbc manual rack So the jbc is far more expensive and labor intensive. So I guess im asking if having a manual rack is that much better (steering feel and input response) over a factory setup that uses heim joints, upgraded bearings and braces. Thanks in advance
  6. I agree, no open header. I also agree that the stock L16 4-2-1 for everyday driving is probably more then fine. My weber downdraft is currently on my wifes car. I dont really want to put it back on but that would be better for doing a base line. Power wise im not expecting to much. 10hp and tq would be great in the mid but I think ill be lucky to see that. Ive come to grip that it is more money than its worth.
  7. There is no intention on running one of the ebay headers. It looks like I have a factory L16 4-2-1. Im going to have a custom header made. I think after I tune my sidedrafts ill dyno the car as is. Then with exhaust and after that with the custom manifold. So taking what worked for my s2000. Ill go with a 4-2-1 sequential paired. Ill step the primary from 1.5 to 1-5/8 then after the first merger 1-3/4 or 1-7/8 to 2in a burns long transition 2-2.5 collector then a short reverse taper to 2.25in probably being closer to the 34in length runners. to the 2.25in exhaust
  8. Those are what i have. There expensive but they have rebuild kits for them, so can really get some time out of them. Ive had my current one for about 16 years. Amazon has them for $30 otherwise any of the major part stores carry them but there significantly more expensive.
  9. I dont want to build the header twice, Id be ok with doing the exhaust twice. I have read that article a few times. Between the short, long and megaphone I was favoring the long. Im very intrigued by the nismo japan factory race header. Tri y, stepped primarys So id maybe skip the stepped primary but do something similar to this. I do like the idea of a long transition reverse cone collector, maybe trying something like you recommend as in 2.5in to 2in then back to 2.5in for the exhaust. Or I might try 2.5in collector with the reverse cone down to 2in
  10. So you think to keep the mid range tq acceptable do a 4-2-1 but use a 2.5in collector and 2.5in exhaust, not doing something like 2.5in collector then a reverse cone to 2.25in to the axle then bumping back up to 2.5in? Only reason I keep bringing up stepped exhaust is because I did that on my na s2000 which that had favorable results (stepped tri y header with 2.5in collector to stepped cat delete 2.5-2.75in and 2.75in exhaust.) Sense I dont have the cam specs here is a video of it idling at 900rpm. This is with the 2-2.5 tapered exhaust. https://youtube.com/shorts/Z7wRyNl8oxw
  11. Would the 2.5in exhaust show a loss of tq in the low to mid range on the L18? Ill be running the L18 bored to 87mm 10-10.25:1ish cr for 1-2 years. Right now my exhaust tapers from 2in at the collector to 2.5in at the muffler. I dont remember if there was a felt difference good or bad when I did that. The car was pretty much strait piped when I bought it so I was looking to bring the noise down so I immediately put a magnaflow straight through muffler and resonator in. For the collector my buddy showed me that he makes his own Here is a pair he just built
  12. Solid logic, good point about the exhaust valve size and its correlation to pipe diameter. Looking at the nismo comp header had me second guessing my original tri y plans. 2.25in exhaust it is. I wouldnt throw the header away anyway. I havent seen any badging or engraving but when I bought the car I was told it was a Hooker header. It is cast and and a 4-2-1 and 2 piece just like the factory. So perhaps doing the tri y with 1.5 primary 1.75 or 1-7/8 secondary to a 2.25 collector would be the best for bet my application.
  13. Hello, so to go with my 2 different builds im trying to figure out if there is a happy medium for exhaust sizing. Im doing a L18 (1854cc with new pistons next year) dual 40mm solex carbs, a87 peanut with 44mm and 38mm valves, big ish cam (dont know the specs) And Future build is a z20 long rod with the parts above. I do realize these have different block heights. I have a good friend that does beautiful custom exhaust, chassis, cage and suspension work. He is a real artist when it comes to tig welding. So Im going to have him make me a stainless
  14. gumby510

    L18 vs (L)z20

    Yes, I ment addhe. This is what I have, correct me if im wrong but id consider this center pull.
  15. gumby510

    L18 vs (L)z20

    You are correct that they are italian solex's. Maybe im incorrect with my understanding but arent those considered center pull (throttle actuation between the 2 separate carb bodies)? Looking at the pic on my phone maybe im just not seeing it clearly. I take some pics of mine and post them up.
  16. gumby510

    L18 vs (L)z20

    I used them and ebay for the rebuild parts. The gasket kit on ebay was only $15ea. With the long tube cannon manifold I dont think ill be able to use the center pull without hitting the hood so im going to try a single side weber cable linkage. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293676763870 Now that I think about it I can probably just flip flop the center linkage and it would probably work..... I feel dumb now.
  17. gumby510

    L18 vs (L)z20

    Thats what I have heard but that typically from people who have only run phh. So I dont know if theres a difference in build quality? From all the things I read the addhe are lighter, flow better and are/were more reliable? I bought the clean pair of 40mm addhe for $250 so I couldnt really pass them up. Gas wise ill be running 93oct It seems overwhelming in favor of the 2.1L. So I think Ill run the L18 with the 87mm pistons for a year or 2 wile I build up the z20 block.
  18. gumby510

    L18 vs (L)z20

    Thank you for the response, I would more than likely have custom pistons made for the z20. The only thing im really worried about with that setup is/would be if my 40mm solex carbs would choke power. They are the solex addhe 40mm with 36mm venturi, these are off of a alfa gtv. There supposed to flow more than the phh and are lighter. Mine are also connected to the long tube cannon manifold. Im trying to judge how much more money to spend on my L18. Im not chasing big power or anything im just looking to make my 510 more fun.
  19. gumby510

    L18 vs (L)z20

    Ok, datzenmike has me thinking. I have my z20e motor on the way, which has the desirable 6in rods. Now im thinking of doing 2 motor builds now. Build my current L18 and use the forged 87mm pistons I have. And Do the z20e with a a87 peanut head and some 87 or 88 mm pistons. So my question is using the same head (built a87 peanut), cam, solex 40mm (36mm venturi) twin side drafts, header, exhaust (2.25in)and compression ratio (10:1cr for comparison.) L18 -1854cc Vs LZ20e-2045cc 1. How would these motors compare to each other in terms of hp/tq and "enjoyment" of the driving e
  20. I'm a bit to anxious for this for my own good. Any idea yet on price?
  21. based on the picture it looks great, I'd like to see it in the 350 realm
  22. im very interested in a full set. pm me when/if they are up for sale
  23. This is something I am very interested in. are you still doing these? id like more info James. Thank you
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