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mklotz70

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Everything posted by mklotz70

  1. To add to what Daniel posted..... The little can motors can be taken apart and "fixed" in some cases. I've done it before, but it's been so long ago, I'm sure the write up was on NWDE.org's forum and it's long gone. 😞
  2. There better be some pictures or videos of all this column shortening you guys are doing!!!! 😞
  3. mklotz70

    My 1971 521

    Hard to tell if it's fully seated at the top of the pic.
  4. mklotz70

    My 1971 521

    I was going to suggest something similar to mainer311.
  5. Hi Tom. This is a copy/paste from pg9(previous page....... Yes, this is a good place to ask the question for continuity's sake. I can't believe 6+ years have already gone by since doing this with Doug. A few years ago, I basically turned all the 1200 stuff over to Doug. He bought the last of the brackets I had and he's selling them now. I would have to refer people to him anytime someone asked a question, so it just seemed fair to let him make whatever money there was to be made on the brackets. Quite honestly, I don't know the answer to your question. I'm sure Doug will since he still deals with these parts on a regular basis. I haven't touched them in a few years. I'll pm you his email address. If he doesn't respond, let me know and I'll call him directly to take a look at this post. You can also find his email address with the 1200 brake kit listing on my site www.bluehandsfab.com (last item on page)
  6. The strut rods have a very minor amount of adjustment, but that was to account for discrepancies in the frames...not for caster adjustment. As Tank mentioned, there will be binding if things are moved much. The factory caster was built into the spindle/dogbone as kingpin inclination. The dogbone was set vertical and the kingpin tilts at 1.5deg(if I remember right).
  7. mklotz70

    My 1971 521

    The first vid said access denied. Second vid worked
  8. mklotz70

    My 1971 521

    But....can it travel far enough to push the cap out with the bearing in properly. I don't think so. I wonder if the bearing is completely out of the way if it could travel far enough to push the cap. Maybe the shaft will travel and stop with an 1/8" of space left, but if the bearing is a 1/4" thick, then that extra 1/8" was enough to pop the cap. With the bearing in the wrong position, if you tightened the 3 bolts that hold the tube to the box, that is probably what generated the force to pop the cap...but it didn't fall out......?? Then when you turned the wheel, that moved things enough to pop the cap the rest of the way?? There's a lot of times I run the video camera when I'm doing new stuff......for just this reason. If it screws up, I can go back and review the vid to see what actually happened. lol If all goes well, I can delete the footage rather than spend the time editing it.
  9. mklotz70

    My 1971 521

    It's interesting that it did that. I'd have to pop the top off on my frame jig and see what it does........but it's outside in the cold and rain. Maybe if I think about it when it's fairly nice out.
  10. mklotz70

    My 1971 521

    If there's a lip of it, a really long rod? Otherwise, maybe heat the large flange and then quench the race with a can of dust off held upside down.
  11. mklotz70

    My 1971 521

    I don't have time to repeat my answers on YT....maybe a bit later...weekend?.....unless you can copy/paste them here.....if they're actually the info you needed. I just wanted to point out that when you put the new bearing in, put grease on it to hold it in place while you put the shaft in. The 90w gear lube will dissolve the grease over time and it should not hurt anything by doing that. It's one of those "old timer" tricks I learned long time ago....from and old timer. lol Also.....normally, I would say that you need to keep the races matched with the bearings...but in this case, I would personally not try to change the races. I would put it together with the grease ....just the new bearing (balls and cage) with the existing races and see how it feels. Changing the races would be quite the nightmare!! Did you already come across this ratsun page. There's some extra pics from my photo bucket here....one of the steering box diagram that shows the size difference between the hole and the nut.
  12. You might try contacting tdaaj ....he deals with a lot of parts.
  13. At the bottom left of the reply window is a paperclip...drag files here or choose files. I did the choose files and it uploaded the pic onto ratsun. We weren't able to do that years ago when I was a lot more active. Loading them up to your own picture hosting site....it's hard to recommend photobucket, but they're much better right now than they have been for the last few years. There's lots of other other option. If you put them on your own hosting site, you can insert them again somewhere else anytime. I'm kinda stuck with PB since I have around 7000 pics on ratsun, all hosted on PB.
  14. You can download the wiring diagram here... http://www.bluehandsinc.com/521-wiring-schematics.html You're wiring is definitely wrong. There should be one wire coming from the ignition of the fuse box.....that is on when running, but not when cranking....going to the resistor. It will be on one side of the resistor by itself. There should be another wire coming straight from the ignition switch that has power when cranking, but not when running(on position on switch) to the other side of the resistor. That connector should also have a wire connected to it that goes to the + of the coil. The - side of the coil should be connected to the points or trigger on the dizzy. So....what is happening is that when cranking, the power from the ignition switch bypasses the resistor because it's connected electrically to the + of the coil. This allows a full 12v to the coil since the starter is going to drop the voltage while it's turning. When the ign switch is released from cranking and goes to the run position, the 12v comes from the fuse block to the resistor, which drops the voltage before it goes to the coil. Points coils are basically 6v coils and will overheat and burn out with 12v constantly going through them. They can get really hot and even "bloat" if constantly receiving a full 12v. Electronic ignition coils are made differently. They're typically a bit bigger physically since they have more coils in them to create a higher spark voltage. They also have the resistance built into them so there's no external resistor to deal with.
  15. Very nice!! I envy all your space!!
  16. I agree with Carter.....nice heater mod!!
  17. Sounds like you have some cool toys now. :) .....and don't worry about your weight.....I don't have the changer anymore. :)
  18. Hmmm.......I suspect you have Biden's pollsters working on this. 😉 lol
  19. I'm guessing that's the shortest one I have. I hope you don't mind, I just added it to the other info on my site for the banjo bolts.... http://www.bluehandsinc.com/hoses---banjo-bolts.html middle of the page. Thanks Doug! :)
  20. OMG!!! Thank you so much buddy!!! That is sooooo friggin' cool......hhmmm....maybe I should say cold. lol Thanks for all the pics and vids! How the heck did you end up doing that? Polar opposite(almost litterally) from southern CA where I thought you were last. Love the Derp. Geez....how long has it been since you were at my place trying to change tires on my tire changer.........and you didn't weigh enough to work it well....?? LOL That was another lifetime. :)
  21. Great to see you back!! Artic? WTF?? I don't want to clutter your car thread, so if you post somewhere else as to what you've been up to, please point me there. :)
  22. .....and I added more info with source links to my site..... http://www.bluehandsinc.com/hoses---banjo-bolts.html
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