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Posts posted by BenJammin

  1. Of course I dig a KC, just not in CA where you can't smog exempt those years.  Always thinking... "man if I could just get a kc titled as a '75... that would be nice ".


    Anyway, the main reason I replied to this thread was the photo in the collage above that has the dog, the cup, (the truck of course), and the grinnin' dude with a cig, spewing out a cloud of smoke... all perfectly aligned to the shot.... awesome !



    • Like 1
  2. I know you probably don't want to hear this, but if you had the plans of doing a KA swap you should have just bought a '75 or older.   I don't have experience with BAR, but knowing California it will be probably be a hassle.



    If you brought over all the smog stuff from the KA motor (to include the cat and o2 sensors) and not tripping codes on the computer, then you might be good.  The delta here is how they will view the old style evap system  to the newer style (with tank purge and vacuum control, vented or non vented gas cap, fuel temp sensor, etc.).   Not sure if the E motors had all that, but my DE threw codes on some of that stuff.

    • Like 1
  3. Looks pretty decent as is.   Mine was pretty cool as it was when I bought it (I just didn't realize it.... kind of like you saying the po "didn't realize what he had").  I ran around in it for about a year before I started making changes.   Looking back, it had some issues but I went nuclear on it with the mods.


    If anything, just for peace of mind and safety, convert to front disc brakes and go thru the rest of the system before anything else if that hasn't already been done.  Along with that, check the steering links for anything janky.


    After those two major things,  the most important  is to come up with (WRITE DOWN!)  a list of goals for the truck and stick to them.  Please re-read that last sentence at least 10 times.


     Believe me !

    • Like 1
  4. Thanks for the replies guys


    Thanks ggzilla will try and get measurements this weekend to see what replacement candidates there are

    Benjammin what do you mean by "amalgam"?

    Anyone think it would be worth it to fab a complete bin?? or maybe take that junk bin, fix it up nice and put in custom tail lights?



    AMALGAM,  technically it is the metal alloy they use to fill cavities in your teeth, used as a slang term it means " a bunch of different stuff thrown together to make one single thing "



    .... but as I said before no personal offense intended, good luck with your search and/ or fabrication, but from I can see in the pics that's not a basket case (i.e. not "beyond repair").    At least post a pic of the worst area of rust that you spoke of.   

  5. Can't see it very well, but that bed looks to be an amalgam of whatever was available locally to the original entry port there.  Generic tail lights, some funky 'whatever will fit' style tail gate  and the lower beads/countours are totally out of sync with the doors.  No offense intended on a personal level, but "that's an ugly baby you have there ".


    For what it's worth, there was a seller awhile back on eBay in Australia that was offering whole new fabbed 620 beds (bins) in the proper stock style.  Of course a bit pricey especially with shipping added.


    EDIT: Found the Australian seller *'rotary_products_new_old_car_company' , currently doesn't list the repro bed, but pretty interesting the stuff they carry and/or reproduce for the 620 (or 'ute' as apparently the trucks are called in Oz).





    And yeah like that's just around the corner for you too, eh?   But it looks like such a straight shot across the Indian Ocean on Google maps, lol !


    Good luck.




    Reading back I have to assume that this truck has never worked properly. If you unplugged the turn signal/dimmer switch and the lights stayed on then a previous owner has messed with the wiring to the headlights. This is a problem with people who take short cuts or don't know what they are doing, or usually, both.


    Yep my truck harness was hacked all to hell !   Some po had used those vampire clamp things to route around multiple issues.  Don't even get me started on what they did to get around a bad turn signal switch.... oh my my  :crying:


  7. Your location lists 'Wilsonville'... not sure if that's in California or not, but if it is your brights are always on because that is just the way people in California roll !  At least here in SoCal.


    It was always taught to me to lower your lights when approaching another vehicle, whether from the front or rear, but I'm amazed since moving here how many people who not only won't dim their lights when coming head-on, but ride my ass with their brights on too <grrrrr>.... happens ALL the time, even at dusk and dawn when you barely need lights on anyway.


    Sorry, I know this is an OT rant and doesn't help your problem whatsoever, but at least if you are in Cali, you probably fit right in with the brights on all the time :)


    But one constructive note (and a big wag), some PO may have changed hacked the harness, either near the switch or by the lights themselves to make the brights and lows be on at the same time, no matter what (the reasons would be the bright position of the switch went bad at some point ?) so just make sure everything looks stock at both ends.

  8. Hey guys,

    Haven't checked to see if theres a spark yet. I'll check it out tomorrow. The truck is at my friends house right now so I cant really go look at it at the moment. 

    But the dash and everything works. Lights turn on, radio works, windshield wipers work and everything. I installed the carb like 2 months ago and it ran fine up until last week when I tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over. When I turn the key it will sputter and then stop. 


    For future troubleshooting purposes, please recognize the distinction between "Won't turn over" and "Won't fire".


    "Won't turn over" means the starter won't even engage or much less try to spin the engine

    "Won't fire" means the starter spins the engine, but there is no ignition, i.e. no attempt or proof the engine is trying to combust fuel in the cylinders, which either means no spark or no fuel (or even possibly a timing problem such as timing chain jump,  distributor issues, points, etc)


    Also, don't tie together something like a carb installation =  not running when in fact you just stated it ran for two months after the install  !   (your first post implied you installed a new carb and it quit running as a result).


    This could range anywhere from spark/point/timing problems to fuel pressure (pump), sticking needle valve, etc.


    In your case it sounds like there is some measurable amount of fuel and some measurable amount of spark as evidenced by the fact it will sputter a little bit,  just there is just not enough of one or the other.  My guess (from your posts) is that it sputters because you are giving it some starting fluid, so I would look at fuel delivery.  Probably the fuel pump since you already replaced the filter.

    • Like 2

    Hey guys,

    So I have a 1972 datsun 620 with an l16 motor and she's not starting. She was driving perfect one day and then the next she wouldn't turn over. the only upgrade to the engine is a weber downdraft and thats it. I've tried changing the oil, replacing the fuel filter, cleaning out the carb, and spraying starter fluid into the carb directly. Still nothing. If anyone has any idea of what the problem may be please let me know. I've kinda run out of places to look.

    Thanks guys.





    Kind of vague...  


    Anyhoo.. won't turn over at all ?

    Are you at least hearing the starter solenoid click when you try ?


    Did it ever run at all after the new carb install ?

    Did the two events (new carb, not turning over)  immediately follow each other ?


    Kind of step us through the events from running to not running.

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