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  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
    Mmmm bigger and blacker. Only way to go
  3. 4 points
    Well, there it is, in the parking lot at work. Started driving the car on Tuesday and drove it all week. As ready as I cold be I jumped in in the morning and hoped to make my 15 mile or so commute. Luckily Cruise was pretty good but my idle started to develop a wicked oscillation once warmed up. Watch my AFR's I kept the rev's pretty low and limped along with autotune running. The only real issue being having to throttle up the rev.s at stops. Jeff was nice enough to go on a lunch break tune cruise. We were able to get the idle dialed pretty quickly whuch made the car much more driveable. However moving up in the rev.s was met with some unexpected cut outs. Some post cruise data log analysis showed that there were some erroneous rev limit and over boost protection settings that were causing some safety ignition retards to kick in. (I took this shot because it was the first time I noticed the intercooler tucked away in there, I've only ever been able to stand a few feet in fornt of the car in my shed and that doesn't let you see the full frontal very well. I like the way this ended up, nice and secluded. 🤗) Hunting down little tune tweaks here and there throughout the week and the car is now very driveable in the cruise and low rpm regions. Very smooth and quite enjoyable after the 521. However, I'm still chasing a couple major isssues. As the car warms up I am getting fuel pressure drop which results in lean condition under boost, this makes the driving anything but spirited and is starting to get frustrating as I run out of trouble shooting avenues. Anyone who followed my short lived GTIR thread may recognize that this is the exact behavior that I was getting with that car and resultsed in it sitting in my driveway with a melted piston... Luckily here I have an AFR and EGT gauge to keep a tab on things and hopefully avoid that situation. The fuel pump slowly gets louder and idle fuel pressure drops form 40 to 30 psi as the car warms up. Can't wait to get this sorted because the car feels like it will be super fun when it's dialed ☺️ Video eventually.
  4. 4 points
    So I did a thing today... and joined the 620 club. Many of you may know my 510 build -- Red '71 4dr Carbed KA -- and as much as I love the car, its not so much fun to drive around all the time... so I was looking for something to be able to cruise around in... drive to work on a fairly regular basis... throw a bike in the back and take it to the trails... so a 620 was the ticket. Watched a number of them... missed out on a few really good ones... then this one popped up. Its rough... but the price was right. More photos to come once I fully go through it all... but the plan is to get the engine and trans back in it, get it running, drop it, and cruiiisee. Eventually I will need to patch a pretty decent hole in the passenger floorboard... but thats just an excuse to buy a welder and learn to weld... something I should really learn how to do anyway. Now for the photos! Orange whip 620 by devon M, on Flickr Orange whip 620 by devon M, on Flickr Orange whip 620 by devon M, on Flickr Orange whip 620 by devon M, on Flickr I think I'm going to need a bigger garage.... Orange whip 620 by devon M, on Flickr Two Dattos! Orange whip 620 by devon M, on Flickr Anyway... I think we'll call her Orange Whip orange_whip_large by devon M, on Flickr
  5. 4 points
  6. 4 points
    Got the replacement cams. Took went through the process of getting them swapped in. Luckily the SR is easy enough to time without removing anything else from the engine. Just takes some careful chain links counting and double checks. Cams installed AND torqued! I got my feeler gauges and checked the valve gaps. You know those settings that I spend oodles of time grinding shims to get perfect. Well the new cams moved them around a few thou but nothing looked out of a spec. Realistically, the difference could just be that the engine has been run and the valves seated a bit differently than when measured on build up. What I didn't see was a huge gap which would imply a bent valve not retracting. So I moved on to a compression test and... 185, 180, 185, 180 phew. I really don't know how I got lucky enough not to bend anything. The intake was about 180 out of timing. Maybe cause it was just low load free rev.s? But even then the engine has plenty of momentum to take out a valve. Oh well, thank you racecar gods 🙏 Running again. Some more qaulity time with my angle grinder and the results were satisfactory so I fully welded them up. The kit all laid out. And built up ready for install. Fitment looked good. Ecspecially with that handsome JBC V3 crossmemeber ☺️ Tire clearance to the TC rod at full lock. I end up rubbing the frame rail first. Had to bash the pinch weld to make it a smoother wear surface. Back on the ground for the first time in 18 month or so! It's so funny standing next to a car thats been in the air for so long. Makes it feel extra low! I had to check for broken suspension somewhere, nope just low.
  7. 4 points
    It's been over 3 years since we started this project and its finally on the road. still a few clean up things to do like mount the bumper, turn signal canceling pins and some interior work. The 3 point seat belts went in after some sweat and cursing. I managed to drop the backing plate we were installing down the passenger side B pillar. caught the string I had tied to it with a coat hanger through the striker plate hole then fished the top half of B pillar to get it back out. The windshield wiper pivot threads were stripped (large nuts that tighten on outside of truck). Machinist at my work had an adjustable die to cut new threads and then he made new nuts to match the newly cut threads. Also trimmed back the original fan shroud since the fan for the L20b is bigger. Picked my son up with it when he was finished his shift at work, he didn't know it was drivable. Great day. A few pics from around town.
  8. 3 points
    ...Everyone keeps saying that. The truth is that cancelling the event altogether would have been much worse. At least we got to spend a few days on the salt, meet up with old friends, had a photo shoot for a potential calendar and magazine article, and met a guy who's willing to sell his FIA head with titanium valves, complete with intakes and cam towers. Best of all was the opportunity to tune at the correct altitude. We could have chosen to run by waiting around for 2 more days, but our best speed would have been 25% lower than what we're capable of with a huge risk of spinning and damaging the truck. Now we're ready for a new engine plan and go do a test & tune event at Brainerd International Raceway.
  9. 3 points
  10. 3 points
    Here's some more autocross pictures from Sunday
  11. 3 points
    With the door catch mechanism screwed in the back of the door, you can put the front release handle in the door. The strut that goes to the lower right corner of this picture hangs below the forward release handle. put the two screws in that hold the forward mechanism to the door, and put the handle on. Put the outside release handle in the door, Center the outside release handle in the opening, and put the nuts on the posts that hold the handle to the door. This is the lock cylinder installed in the door. The lock cylinder is held by the rusty clip that holds the cylinder to the door, it just slides under some tabs on the lock cylinder. There is also a hairpin clip that holds a short lever that goes to a rod on the door catch mechanism. Carefully put this hairpin clip in place, it is really easy to drop into the door and lose it. I then put the window crank on the door. Take out the sliding window stop again. you need to lower the sliding window just below the edge of the door, to get the fuzzy strips that are right on the window glass. These are the slots in the top outside of the door that hold the four clips on each side that hold the fuzzy weatherstrip in the door. These are the slots in the top inside of the door that hold the four clips on each side that hold the fuzzy weatherstrip in the door. note the sliding window is just below the edge of the door. The sliding window is very close to coming off the roller on the end of the window regulator arm. This is the clip that holds the glass weatherstrip to the door. the tab held in the needle nose pliers is bent away from the body of the clip. That needs to be bent closer to the clip body. You just bend the tab by holding the tab with the pliers, and pushing the two outside legs of the clip closer to the center tab. this is the same clip as above, after bending it. The center tab on the clip slides into the slot in the top of the window opening. Finally, the glass weatherstrip can be slid into the two small legs of the weatherstrip clip. Start at one end, holding the fuzzy weatherstrip at a slight angle, and push the weatherstrip into all four clips. Repeat the same process for the second glass weatherstrip. I have not gotten the inside door upholstery cards redone yet, so at this point, I am done with the door.
  12. 3 points
    You literally just described Hobo . .
  13. 3 points
    Since the photos I posted on the FB resulted in tons of questions asking for further explanation how I made the parking brake work with Trooper rear calipers and stock 620 cables, I made a quick ‘how-to-ish’ video. Lucas Films beware....
  14. 3 points
    Viet Nam . PSP planking, Bombs all along the wings .50 caliber nose. Up-engined. Would have had KC135 brakes. Now you know where the planes that Kennedy denied the Cuban Bay of Pigs troops went.
  15. 3 points
    Thanks to all that came out for the day & my SWDP brothers for making this event happen. I wasnt able to attend due to work but I'll be there next year. Ive saved some pics from the bbq I've seen on FB & I'll post them soon.
  16. 3 points
  17. 3 points
    A lot's happened over the last 5 months but I'll go sparingly on the gory soap opera details on how it went down and stick to the what went down instead. Ken was ready to walk away from the whole thing, but over time we pieced together a path forward that made sense and everything seemed to fall in place like it was meant to be. A warm hole opened in the fabric of time space continuum and out of thin air new OEM RB26 head casings showed up on eBay for $800, and then new blocks for $1,300... WTF right? Turns out, Nissan Performance Division is putting the RB26 back into production https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/buying-maintenance/a26985019/nissan-syline-gt-r-rb26-engine-restarts-production/ and we got some of the first castings shipped to the states. Since then the price has nearly doubled and they're backlogged 6 months. Nice bit of good fortune, but then the builder and machine shop that build the RB that took a shit said they'd put a new engine together for the price of parts and no charge for labor. Ken's got a better engine for a fraction of the first one. Erring on the side of caution we replaced all the internals and resurfaced and balanced the crank. We also replaced all the valves with Supertech sodium filled exhaust valves made of Inconel/Nimonic alloy, and EV8 (21-4N) stainless steel intake valves. Remember this? Now On it's way back to Portland this weekend where the car is waiting.
  18. 3 points
    There is next year. Great trucks and cars, people, food, and weather. Thank you all that made it. A huge thanks to Danny and Carlos for the food and cooking.
  19. 3 points
    Work has commenced on the wiring for the car. I started by laying some nylon rope and cutting everything to size so that the harness can be made off the car and to keep everything nice and tidy. I decided to mount my sealed fuse power distribution unit in the engine bay and to use the case from the original 280z ecu to mount my ms3pro. I'm making sure to take my time with this as any shortcuts will just mean potentially more work later. I have new connectors for everything and am using the best wire I could get my hands on for anything that didn't come with my ms3pro harness so basically just the power distribution side of things. I will need to order some more wire, sleeving, and another crimping die for my end to end splices.
  20. 3 points
    Thanks BrothersGarage, just have to get my son driving a stick. The lessons have started.
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
  23. 3 points
    Seems like you would be better off selling it and buying another 620.
  24. 3 points
    I could be wrong but I believe these motor homes are walk thru, he is going to need a back of a cab.
  25. 3 points
    Probably and probably the head gasket isn't blown. Coolant leaked in and got past the rings. You can clearly see the #4 piston top has been steam cleaned of deposits. No big deal just clean and assemble with new HG.
  26. 3 points
    Looks ok, just clean and assemble. The brown and most of the other is from lack of proper oil changes. Loose bolt is from not re-torquing the head bolts every year or so. The Z24 has a chronic problem with blowing head gaskets when it gets to 100k. A simple loosening of each bolt and tightening to 60 ft lbs, one at a time, is the preventative measure for this. The cooling system looks like it was run often without or a poor mix of antifreeze and not changed every 3-5 years. Wouldn't hurt to flush the block and rad later. The above are normal for a truck this age. Probably on the 5th or 6th owner and no one wants to spend any money on something they got for so cheap and they drive it into the ground. Blocks almost never warp but you can check this when you check the head... which is aluminum and can easily warp if overheated. You'll need a straight edge that can be trusted and some feeler gauges. A professional straight edge is like $75 and up, maybe you can borrow one. Clean the head and lay the straight edge diagonally in an X along the length and try to fit a feeler gauge under it to find any low spots. If you can get a 0.004" feeler under it, it really should be leveled. For major or minor warp there is an inexpensive way to fix this at home. Never lay the head down with the valves pointing down. If one is open far enough you can easily bend one by accident. Smart to remove the head with the intake on. Saves a lot of unnecessary work.
  27. 3 points
    I got a good start yesterday morning doing the final install of the ac system... I cleaned up all the holes and sharp edges, then gave a small coat of paint to protect.... While the paint dried I focused on the wiring, got done to the point I needed to install the under dash unit and i was out of time..... Well for some reason around 730 last night I got a second wind and was able to get out to the garage again.... some how about 3 hours passed and I got about 95% of the install done..... I only have the 2 firewall bulk head fittings to connect, but I need a second set of hands so I can tighten them to the fire wall before connecting the lines..... Its amazing how much quicker it goes after it's all planned out and mocked up.... just sucks I need to wait 2 weeks to get it charged now, already spent my allowance for the week.... On a side note I was curious if I would in fact be able to feel the air flow from the under dash unit and that's definitely not a problem....
  28. 3 points
  29. 3 points
  30. 3 points
    Thanks man! Not all of my repairs have been perfect, but will be solid and ensure this car gets a new lease on life for some time to come. This thing would have been a parts-car at best otherwise, and while it's not a series-one or anything, it's still been great to rescue it from the terrible work of previous owners. ------------------------------------------ Had time today, so did the final cuts, and tacked the new floor section in. Plug welded the whole way along the length of the frame rails as well. All welded in. This only took about an hour, which surprised me. Not too much warping, and the car was already hit in this corner at some point, so I'm fine with it. Seam sealed, primed, and painted both sides. Really happy with how it all turned out, and it's awesome to have a complete trunk floor again. With quarter on: Also found some paint at a local Walmart that I didn't think existed in Canada. Rustoleum Metallic blue. I'm definitely leaning towards this as a colour now; the blue of the jdm legends 240z has always been awesome, and this should be pretty similar in shade if I use black primer underneath. My plan is for a budget paintjob that still looks good - epoxy primer, spraycan paint, and then 2k clear in a can to ensure longevity. Should look decent while ensuring I don't have to mind when I get rock chips etc. Just sprayed on an unfinished fender to see the colour:
  31. 3 points
    Still waiting on two wheels so decided to take week off and paint the truck. 546 grey green. Sanded back the hood to see what it would look like. Got to see if it grows on me. my 3rd car slash paint booth.
  32. 3 points
    The problem with diesel engines is they sound so stupid. Well except one. Turns out there is always an exception to every rule!
  33. 3 points
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
  38. 2 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr I did it again, my over the top Hotrod currie enterprises rear end. 4.10 gears all done up in aluminum and fully polished, why, I don't know why.
  39. 2 points
    Now that’s an EV I’d drive!
  40. 2 points
    high school here we come 🙂 Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr
  41. 2 points
    small RVs tend to hold some value if they run and the camper accessories still work. Yes, you may need to hold on to the cash and wait for the right 620 to show up. Maybe you can find one in Washington if you're close to the border.
  42. 2 points
    Seems like the 510s that get the highest auction sales prices all have L motors in them. I have always thought that a well built L motor looks way better in a 510 engine bay than any KA or SR. If you've got $1200 to spend, and the motor is in relatively good shape, spend it on the head. Save some more money and buy a set of dual carbs. Build a nice exhaust system with a good header. Get your distributor re-curved and build a heat shield for the intake. You'll be into this setup about $3000-$4000 and have a 510 built in the classic style. Worry about the suspension and brakes later. Or... Spend that money on the suspension and brakes first and have a car that you can flog to death, running headlong into any corner, without killing yourself.
  43. 2 points
    My 4 year old was my copilot again. He had a BLAST.....mainly because I bought him 3 hot wheels lol. Ended the day with In N Out. I NEED MORE ROLLERS!!!!!! Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr
  44. 2 points
  45. 2 points
    Sometimes it's hard for me to get started but once started I get into the groove. Often I tell myself that I'll just get this one thing done and quit for the day and it's done so I pick something else knowing I can stop when ever I like. Knowing that I just have to get it done is hard.
  46. 2 points
    Ya I will keep the z22 for a bit out runs better now that it has a muffler and a bit more exhaust. Still need to do since thread repair on some spark plug holes. Maybe ka swap in the future.
  47. 2 points
  48. 2 points
    That is all good. I do not have time to mess with the Scout stuff It is all early scout and not in very good shape, not disc brake stuff.
  49. 2 points
    *ahem* we actually make a part for that. Can I donate one to you so you can get rid of that super sketch fuel tap? https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-vq-fuel-port-p-9160.html
  50. 2 points
    Also here's an autocross shot from Sunday. Did pretty decent on the old, used, rock-hard Rivals I keep street driving and drag racing on. Look how aired-down I had them. These tires owe me nothing.
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