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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Was bored during lunch today, so I made some door lock knobs. They kinda look like cigarettes, which was unintentional.
  2. 1 point
    The factory bench is very thin backed. I'm going to put recaro mesh heads into mine. Not having a head rest sucks.
  3. 1 point
    Here is a thread Icehouse started.
  4. 1 point
    Going slightly smaller will cause the brake pedal to have travel farther to move the same amount of fluid. This not the end of the world, but it may then seem 'mushy'. Some find that they can modulate the brakes much easier and closer to brake lock up in a panic stop situation. Going slightly larger will cause a harder, firmer pedal as you are trying to move more fluid with the same pedal travel. If you have a brake booster with a larger master this isn't so noticeable.
  5. 1 point
    They did, cylinder bore is 3.389 and the pistons measured between 3.385 - 3.386. I guess my plan now is just to gap the rings accordingly and 'send it.'
  6. 1 point
    Thanks for the info. I just saw the carb for the first time today. Had to go to work before I could authenticate it. When he said new in box I thought he meant a redline box,but it was just in a generic box. It's just the carb and nothing else. Beginning to have second thoughts before buying. I think I would need to buy an air filter kit(40), adapter plate(40), and a throttle adapter (30), and I am sure a few other parts too. That adds up to around 150.
  7. 1 point
    Yes, in 1986. That's when they went to IFS. I once heard of an aluminum four piston Toyota caliper, but have never seen one in person. The difference between the IFS 4cyl and IFS V6 calipers are - V6 caliper has four of the same size pistons while the 4cyl caliper has two large and two small pistons. The V6 caliper also has a cooling fin arrangement cast into the outside, while the 4cyl caliper does not. Some wheels require grinding a bit of the V6 caliper's cooling fins off a bit to fit the wheel.
  8. 1 point
    Jack up front of truck and feel for play in the wheel bearings. The large nut behind the gear that meshes with the hub adjusts the play in the wheel bearings by drawing the hollow stub shaft against the inner hub. Too loose would cause the stub axle to get "shorter".
  9. 1 point
    thanks. yes the gold cap ones are made in mexico that I seen. At leas 1 I had. I ran for a few days but put a Koyosan on. as it looked better. One guy on here had a issue with his actuator arm broke off. Mainer is using his and hopefull he will update as the years go by how good they are.
  10. 1 point
    Lasted a few months iirc. Spectra Premium a1301mp is a gold top pump, got it at AutoZone with free next day delivery.
  11. 1 point
    this is good to know. I thought the Spetra was the same pump ? as I saw a Spetra on Amazon and it was really the same stock looking clone. Unless these just keep changing with where they spurce their parts How long is awhile.??/ did it last? I have one Nissan spare(koyosan) and a Nikki for 620 spare a Blackstone bronze color cap one as a spare 510/321 and now 2 of these Carter stock looking sprares510/521 I have a Koyosan in my 521 and its been in there for a long time and I drive my 521 pretty much everyday since i owned it(19yrs) my 510 is maybe a weekend driver if that now. Once every 6 weeks maybe
  12. 1 point
    machine shop going to gap/install them for me once we determine which ones to buy.
  13. 1 point
    I am definitely capable of making a metal back and saving the housing. Problem is I’ve made a lot of stuff for this truck and I want to move onto stuffing new sub frames, coil overs, disc brakes and a vtec into my mini. Freshen up my 58 Fleetside shocks and get an alignment and put a new fuel injection computer in my chevelle. Plus build a new patio and shed doors in the backyard. Maybe it’s time for young Mr. Higgins to try his hand at creative problem solving. Front brake lines for discs. stock shifter plate with relocated shifter hole for 5sp. steering wheel adapter. speaker pods Jumping points. Plus stainless exhaust, bracketry to make a Z fan work on a 620 water pump and line up with a Z alternator, kill switch. And all the little things this basket case required to give him a good intro into old cars. He wants a harbor freight train horn, told him he is on his own for that project. He turns 16 tomorrow and we still don’t have a gas tank. I took it to be cleaned two months ago when I got back from deployment.
  14. 1 point
    Thank you, I was beginning to think I was doing something horribly wrong with noone chiming in. Hopefully I can keep the quality to a point it doesn't detract from the car.
  15. 1 point
    That's exceedingly ambitious. I fear you will end up with a scaled down dragster engine that is useless for anything but a dragster.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    big ed diameter: 2.0869 width: 1.054 small end width: .827 if you call carrillo they already have the specs just tell them its for a l20b.
  18. 1 point
    I suppose I'll update the thread; I've been just putting everything on Instagram (@brandonmakecar). I've finally gotten a ton measuring done, research done, ordered parts, and have 99% of what I need to get the suspension and brakes done. For the brakes I had to make some concessions on rotor size as I really want to be able to run my 14" Riversides. This took a lot of measuring and parts chasing to arrive at a setup that would fit inside of my 14" wheel and then also I had to work out the distance for the rotor placement depth wise. In the end, I'm going with Wilwood Dynapro 6 piston calipers over an 11" rotor and then for the rear I'm going with Wilwood Powerlite 4 piston calipers modded / a built in parking brake mechanism over a 10" rotor. The biggest dilemna here was working with the piston sizes between the two so that I arrived at a good bias built in that would only require minor adjustment via a proportioning valve. So since I got everything piece meal and didn't get a kit I have to sort out how to make it all fit together myself. First up was to make a caliper bracket. Really the hardest part of this was just getting the measurements for mounting bolt placements. This was a bit rough since everything was on a different plane and it wants to move around while measuring. I also really wanted the caliper to sit vertical to the ground. It bugs my OCD when cars have a calipers mounted at wonky angles. I sorted it out pretty quick and got the front done a couple days ago. The final product was cut from 10mm steel. Bracket all done, save for some final finishing up on the edges with a belt sander. They were still rough from the raw cut. Since I swapped out the non-adjustable Tokicos the car had in the strut tubes for Koni Race, the top threading was different. This meant I had to sort out new tube nuts for the camber plate's spherical bearings. Some super easy measuring, a little bit of googling, refusing to pay what the Cusco ones cost, more googling and then BAM they show up in the mail. To get the electronics on this, I think I may end up running the nut up the strut's threads a bit to sink the adjustment down more, but we'll see where we are when I get there. That's an easy kill. It all came together pretty nicely and all the measuring worked out 😄 So then obviously I have to see how it would sit "aired out." It's definitely not laying frame, but it looks decent. Noway could I drive it like this without a ton more camber. Plus I'm not really going for super low. I want this to handle very well and also be able to adjust to a comfortable setting when crusing. That was the whole intention of the air. Then the other set of wheels I picked up on eBay have a chrome finish with corrosion below it. It doesn't look so nice so while I redo those, I figured I'd take care of it. The course of action will be to sand off the chrome, flatten the spoke faces and then polish (pretty much look like my Riversides are in the above picture). I'll then paint just the insides of the spokes in a dark grey. Should look pretty nice when finished. The bolts have also been stuck so I've been slowly working on drilling those out. Removing the bolts... Right down the center The pitting chrome.... Sanded off. I have a little bit to go then I'll do finer grits and polish to see how it comes out. And then finally, onto the next project. Going to fab up some adjustable lower control arms and then some adjustable TC rods. I'm really trying to not mess with the actual car or parts on it, so I'll make these from scratch instead of cutting up the arms I have.
  19. 1 point
    The throw out or release bearing is $20 and should ALWAYS be replaced if the transmission is out. If this was an easy to get at thing like a fan belt, who cares. This is a major pain in the ass to take out again in two months for a $20 part. For the same reason, a WallMart special $6 bearing should also be avoided. The pilot bushing is under $5 so do it also... do NOT grease the pilot, it is perm lubed when made. Lube will attract friction dust from the clutch and grind it away. The rear seal where the drive shaft fits in, is $5 and worth replacing while transmission is out. Grease the seal lips so it doesn't start dry. If you have never changed the transmission oil, don't know the last time it was changed or it's been over 30K, now should be the time for this no matter what color it is. GL-4 80w90 two liters. When you can't get any more oil in the filler hole..... it's full. I wouldn't re use the disc. It's not that it's missing material but that the internal damage could be worse. Again a pain in the ass to remove the transmission again in 6 months. Clutch and PP with new release bearing, new oil, pilot and rear seal and other than replacing the oil in 30K you should be good for 90-100K
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