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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/18/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    You have a photo of your broken fan cage to compare to what I have? I am not really all that good with measuring small stuff, I believe the shaft is 9/32", one of them tiny marks above a 1/4".
  3. 2 points
    I don't know if this matters now, but I figured out something on these heaters today, you see I am trying to clean up around here a little, since Crash got me thinking about heaters I figured I will get everything sorted out in the hear box bin/tub so I have 4 heater boxes, 4 motors of which 2 are small, 1 pancake type, and one large one that fits on the large pancake mounts, I have one good core right now and 2 that need repaired. OK I mentioned that the small motors don't really move a lot of air, well while I was getting all the fan cages together and I looked at my 720 motors/fan cages and seen they connected to the motor shaft(same size) the same way as the older ones do but the cages are slightly larger, so I tried mounting a 720 fan cage onto one of the small motor heater boxes, well the cage is taller also(sticks out farther/too far), I looked at everything and then figured out if I took the motor out of the inside of the heater box and I mounted it using the same small motor mount holes on the back outside the motor/shaft would be deeper in the heater box so that is what I did, I then mounted the fan cage onto the motor and it fit just right after bending the the inside fin on the housing just a little so the fan cage would not rub on it, it is really close, I put the cover on and powered it up, it is moving more air than any heater box I have ever seen so far, even more than the 720 heater motor with the small metal fan cage I that I modified the heater box housing to make it fit, I can feel the air coming out of the defroster ducts 4 feet away using the small motor. Here is the 720 fan cage installed on a small motor with a 720 motor/fan cage beside it. Here is the heater box(early/late box???) with the front cover in position and a 720 motor/fan cage and a smaller 521 fan cage next to it. Here is the back of the heater box with the small motor mounted on the outside, it does not stick out far enough to be an issue with mounting the heater box on the firewall. The small motor will need some kind of seal between it and the heater box which will make the air come out even faster, this is the best result I have had so far, and there are no modifications to be made except for maybe grinding a 1/16th" off where one of the core tubes hit the fin housing inside the heater box where I bent it slightly , it can be put back to the way it was, this cannot be done with the larger motors as they mount on legs inside the heater box. Here is the only mod I had to make because when I stuck the heater core in it bent the fin I bent out of the cage fans way back into the fan cage. It does not touch anymore.
  4. 2 points
    lol man. You are wild.
  5. 1 point
    Yeah, at this point I've lost count of the number of patches that have gone into this thing. ------------------------------------------- Drove down to the USA and picked up some parts I had shipped near the border to save me $$ on shipping to Canada. First round of coilover bits (still need camberplates and new shorter inserts): 280z backing plates that use the more conventional style of brake cylinder (those need replacing,but this type is way cheaper): A bunch of metal for the front end of the car. Will need some changing ( larger hole for the EFI intake needs to be reduced for the 240/260 cabin air intake L-pieces that go there, etc), but I save a bunch of $$ vs buying reproduction bits, and my sheet metal brake couldn't have done the frame rail sections anyway. Also got another pair of 225/50/15's to complete my setup, but no pics of them.
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    OK, with that tool I measured with I could not get it down to 1/4" when measuring the shaft, nor could I get it to stop at 1/4" when measuring the inside, but I looked at that site you posted a link to and they have no 9/32" bores, so I just took a regular tape measure and measured the inside of the hole across and it appears to be a 1/4" bore, it certainly isn't 5/16". I looked a little at that site and there is another variable, the fan cage is offset by a 1/2", I have what you need but it will not fit in a small flat rate box, I have never broke a fan cage so I suspect I can afford sell one, PM me if you are interested.
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    I don't think chromate is used much anymore except for very specialized applications do to toxicity/pollution. It's just yellow zinc. Higher grades are going to be less likely to break when removing, also.
  13. 1 point
    I wish that was in my S10! 🤣
  14. 1 point
    No not yet I was hoping to get it out this weekend but I might be snow blowing in my spare time instead..... I know the motor is the smaller pancake one.... and the fan looks like the one you called the 521 cage... this one....
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    This is what I want to do to both my truck and my Z. Love to get rid of all the PS crap under the hood. No leaks , more room in the engine compartment . .
  17. 1 point
    Didn't we have this conversation before.... I know the heater core is different... I dont know if the fan and motor is similar...
  18. 1 point
    Yo man I got a heater from a 510 and if it’s the same you can have whatever you want from it.
  19. 1 point
    Its definitely nice to have pieces and parts to compare.... I think I have to read that a few more times..... Wayno any chance you know or could measure the diameter of the motor shaft..... I found a place that just sells the cages... https://www.blowerwheel.com/ Seems that more fins would move more air... I hoped I might find a cage that was close to what I have....
  20. 1 point
    I recently acquired a 1983 720 from a coworker in trade for a sbf camshaft and some welding work. The engine was pulled and on a stand with the intention of freshening it up and using a blow thru turbo setup. I acquired it as sort of a side project/ something to keep me busy over the winter. I just wanted to make a post here to catalog the build and get feedback from the community as I'm not super familiar with these rigs and I'm sure you guys have some insider knowledge. Fyi, the bed is unbolted hence the janky body line in the pictures
  21. 1 point
    i live in mount vernon and i may know where there are some parts trucks if you are in need.
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  27. 1 point
    There was an article in a restoration magazine a few years back that commented on the subject of GR8 vs GR5. One often overlooked difference between the two grades is the plating, not just the color, but the quality of the plating. GR8 bolts have a yellow zinc chromate plating which is vastly superior to the bright coating of GR5. I buy most of my generic hardware from https://www.mcmaster.com/
  28. 1 point
    I have some experience in this subject although it might not apply with a stock situation, back in 2002 I converted over to disc brakes on my 521, I used 620 rotors/calipers, lower control arms, tension rods, and spindle assemblies, I used a modified 720 upper control arms(lengthened .75"), since the 720 upper control arms have larger mount holes in them I made sleeves for the 521 bolts, at first it didn't work out that well until I figured out I had to reverse the 720 upper control arms to get the castor where it needed to be, after I figured that out everything was within 2 degrees of stock and it was able to be aligned. Well the first time one of the driver side bolts broke I was doing a U-turn(I haul a trailer) and that was kinda a shock, I got it up the street and did the job I went there to do and then I tried to figure out what to do to get home, I finally figured out if I got the control arm where it needed to be I could use a pair of vice grips to get me home as I could not get the broken piece out of the hole to put a new bolt in. Fast forward for a couple years, I put power steering in the truck, over them years I kept buying stock type bolts to replace bolts that kept breaking because they would work there way loose, I kept checking every couple weeks and tightening them up but they still would get loose and break, I kept tightening them tighter and tighter but they kept getting loose, the last time they both broke at the same time(not the first time it happened), I was going 30mph, the front end dropped to the ground when I just touched the brakes, I used bolts I had to get me home but I could not get them tight as the threads had pulled out of the shock tower this time from tightening them too tight, I went to the hardware store and bought these long grade 8 bolts with a lot of threads on them and big washers and grade 8 lock nuts, I put the bolts in the holes and tightened them as tight as I could get them which was not very tight as the threads were mostly gone, then I removed the wheel and put the washers and lock nuts on the end of them long bolts sticking out and I tightened them damned things as tight as I could get them, it sucked/crushed that flat plate against the back of the shock tower structure and the bolt ends didn't hit the shocks, them bolts never broke again nor did they ever get loose again, I drove it that way for over 12 years. Now keep in mind that this is my work truck I am talking about, I haul a trailer that weighs 2000lbs, at the time my truck weighed 3400lbs, and I would put over 2000lbs of wet moss in the back of my truck, that is 7400lbs or more sometimes, it's 5400lbs minimum all the time, this is why I need good brakes, in about 2008 I put 1990 Nissan hardbody V6 dual piston caliper disc brakes on the truck. The reason I wrote all this is because the stretching of grade 5 bolts is not good, it means they can get loose which is a bad thing in my opinion on upper control arms as they move around, and the more they move the more they stretch, and one day they break, but again this is my work truck which I have hauled stupid amounts of weight with 100s if not thousands of times over the years.
  29. 1 point
    Of course I want IT! One day maybe we can work a deal lol
  30. 1 point
    He's not the only one...
  31. 1 point
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  35. 1 point
    timing looks perfect to me
  36. 1 point
    Paras Newsstand, which was in operation for over 70 years, is now closed. Due to health issues, but also a decline in Paper/Magazine buyers. This was the place to go for that obscure or hard to find magazine. And if they didn't have it, they would order it for you if possible. Sucks now that Barnes and Noble is basically the only game in town now.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    If you mean on the pulley, then yes. That’s why I said TDC on crank. I have a 6 notch pulley: -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, and the 0 is noticeably deeper.
  39. 1 point
    The TDC must be set with the timing pointer. Lobes at 10 and 2 just confirms compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke TDC (there are 2 on a 4 stroke engine) and is no where near accurate enough. If you did use the timing scale at 0 (zero) the cam timing is perfect.
  40. 1 point
    Pretty sure that is fine.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Also, how to I post pictures on here? Lol. Sorry not familiar with the fourm
  43. 1 point
    While everything is apart, I decided to have a look at my thermostat housing, since it was leaking. Turns out the mating flange was pitted to hell. Luckily, the casting is relatively square, and I was able to machine off both surfaces today. Only took about 0.010” or so to get them both nice again.
  44. 1 point
    Not much apparently. Just old comfortable shoes traded in for new tighter ones.
  45. 1 point
    Yeah, once Alex leaves, Jeopardy will never be the same.
  46. 1 point
    For the time being I think. She’s really awkward as the host.
  47. 1 point
    So Vanna is the host?
  48. 1 point
    No but now I wish I did..... What did we miss?
  49. 1 point
    Anyone else see Wheel of Fortune tonight? Holy crap!
  50. 1 point
    Wayno, I'm just the messenger: http://forums.nicoclub.com/transmission-parts-list-w-pic-t592689.html http://forums.nicoclub.com/running-on-a-budget-63-pl-320-t586738.html Address for the 320 forum: http://forums.nicoclub.com/datsun-320-forum.html Links to other Datsun/Nissan vehicle at lower right of any page.
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