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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 3 points
    Wiring all mocked up. Marked and trimmed to length. Then in to the house for more comfortable stripping/crimping/soldering/pinning/etc. Many hours later, everything is where it should be. The chassis harness is all taped up. This ended up being nearly as much work as the engine harness since it was a bit hacked up. I'm gong to wait until the engines running before taping the engine harness though. A brief intermission from electrical to mount the throttle pedal. Donated from an Altima. It's the same pedal that will fit directly on to the stock 510 triangular mount, which is what I intended. Except, this didn't put the pedal in the ideal spot, and I liked the feel of the stiffer return spring better. As well, the steel mounting bracket just "feels" better, I've never heard of the plastic triangle breaking but oh well. Back to wiring. I needed a place for all of the electronic boards. Wanted them all in one spot, easily accessible but not visible. Lots of room to run wires but not spread out. Ended up with this arrangement. Case in back will house the megasquirt. Each main board is connected with velcro for easy removal. A couple of spacers hold the hinge in place meaning the whole panel can be removed with 2 screws. Not too bad on the engine bay aesthetics. The two white blocks on the front are magnets. When hinged up they land on the steel dash bar and connect with a satisfying clunk. Feels sturdy enough but it's possible a large pothole may knock it loose. We'll see. Installed a main power breaker. Gauges need attention soon. Grabbed an EGT unit to increase my chances of tuning success. It has a signal output so I hope to at least datalog with the megasquirt. Has anyone ever used aerospace gauges? They have some sweet options! This one is about perfect to sit in the stock tacho location in the cluster! Do want! List is shrinking, slowly but surely.
  3. 3 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr New back window seal from Datsport.
  4. 3 points
    So it looks teal in some light like in my garage, blue in other light like in this is tree shade. I'll get more photos in direct sun after I have a chance to buff it. And it needs a gooood buffin. Lots of dusty patches and weird textures. But overall I'm very pleased. It even fired right up after sitting for almost a month.
  5. 3 points
  6. 2 points
    On a basic level that air cleaner works but a later stock housing converted, allows you to run a later ATC (air temperature control) on the snorkel that mixes air warmed by the exhaust and cold outside air from in front of the rad that is stabilized at around 90-100F. The engine runs like it's spring even in below zero weather that would cause carburetor icing and is immune to over 200F under hood temperatures in the summer that can cause vapor lock. True, it's easier to do nothing.
  7. 2 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Last of the Kameari headers for the Fj20.
  8. 2 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr New seats ordered.
  9. 2 points
    I know you all forgot about this event, but I just now FINALLY got my video put together. Give it a watch, share with a friend.
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Looks like we had the same idiot work on our rear bed corners 😐
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    We need to revisit the idea of cruel & unusual punishment, cause some of these people need something more extreme...
  14. 1 point
    Jails should just be massive farms. Subsidizing farmers would be over, and the farmers would still be in business growing different profitable crops. Have inmates grow Corn, Soy, Strawberries, whatever. Just reverse the economics of incarceration
  15. 1 point
    ^^ Excited to hear about the fitment ^^
  16. 1 point
    1972 Datsun 510 2dr w/ VG30 $10,500 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Datsun-510/133057656033?hash=item1efadab4e1:g:shcAAOSwNGRc4hYS
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Years ago I got a rebuild kit from Nissan dealer. $12 but it had everything but the casting and the piston slug. Bleeder and a rubber cover for it, I mean everything. In reality all you need is the rubber seal. I recently replaced mine with one from NAPA. No kits available. I took it apart to be sure there was no casting debris or machine shavings in it and to check the seal was installed properly. I also wet the bore with brake fluid so it wouldn't run on a dry surface. The seal was extremely soft and limp, not at all like the original. Just like the Hitachi. The pump discharge is proportional to how fast you step on the gas. If slowly you don't need it much and much will drain back but a sudden flooring of the gas discharges more.
  19. 1 point
    Clutch master is what it is more often than not. One thing I had to fix when I first acquired my truck was the threaded rod on the clevis. It was so long that it was mashed up against the back of the pedal, which wasn’t allowing me to adjust the clevis properly. Double check that too.
  20. 1 point
    Yes,cruel punishment then slow execution.People like that just need to be put down permanently so the victims families can have some closure.
  21. 1 point
    Looks like a 32 36 that was a elelctric choke converted bak to a manual choke nothing wrong with the aircleaner you have
  22. 1 point
    What I noticed about the return spring vs. no return spring: Without it, residual pressure in the system seems to force the slave piston outwards, and you end up with no free play at the bottom of the system at all. I didn't like this, because I feel like it's going to force the bearing into the pressure plate even when my foot isn't on the pedal. With the return spring, your clutch throw is directly affected by how far out you have the ball adjusted on the slave piston, but it at least keeps the T/O bearing off of the pressure plate. I just recently put my clutch in, and the pedal feel is definitely strange now. I feel like the clutch grabs too far out on the clutch pedal. I wish it grabbed closer to the floor, but don't want to adjust it far enough that I'm not getting complete disengagement. It's one of those adjustments that takes some iteration. I can't give you specifics about the master, because I think some of them are different than others. Some of them have a clip that keeps the plunger in place, and then a second clip to keep the spring loaded piston in place. I can't vouch for all of them though, and the last thing you want is that bastard shooting into your truck and pissing fluid everywhere. I know that on mine I can disconnect the clevis from the clutch pedal and swing the pushrod well out of the way so that I can adjust it. Does yours have rubber dust cover over the back of it? Pull it off and see if you can see a secondary clip.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    More work done on the Green truck today. Had to modify the drivers seat bracket to get more room around the transmission tunnel (you can see on the top left here). With that done my Bro started scribing out where we drilled the brackets out for the new hardware. Once we got those done we placed the seats in the truck and used a sharpie to mark where it sat on the floor. Drilled out new holes in the truck, and then sprayed down the interior so it the new holes won't rust. The new mk2 Recaros sit a little lower than the back window: Swapped out the factory lap belts for these auto-retracting lap belts from eBay, and they are awesome Since the Green truck runs I did a bunch of car swapping between my place and Bros and finally brought her back home!
  25. 1 point
    Probably a 32/36 progressive. Got a shot of the rear to confirm?
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    I thought they were riveted in place.... ...and it's always easier to take stuff apart. Not so easy or fast to put back together. Sometimes an adjustment is lost and needs resetting, like a carburetor, sometimes it takes 5 tries to get it back together correctly, then there are non reusable things like a seal or gasket that has to be replaced. Often you break something that was working just fine if it was only left alone. One of the most important things that often take so long to learn is... Don't fix what ain't broken and it's cousin... leave shit alone.
  29. 1 point
    It’s not joes any more. He sold it years ago.
  30. 1 point
    Aren't the 520/521 bodies wider too? So your bed will be wider than the cab?
  31. 1 point
    I don't want fucked up,there's no crown for most fucked up. It's just all fucked.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    The 520/521 bed has different lines than the 320 bed, it will look strange on your 320, might I suggest you modify your box with a lower rocker in front of the rear wheel well and a lower skirt in bqack of the rear wheel well, I shortened my bed when I made it a kingcab, but hopefully the photo below will give you an idea about what I am talking about.
  37. 1 point
    Since Craigslist now charges for listings, your best bet is to search: Facebook Marketplace > Offerup > Craiglist To find the bed you're looking for you may have to settle on looking for "Datsun Trailer" for 2-300$ and then swapping the beds out. Example: https://spokane.craigslist.org/tro/d/priest-river-06-utility-trailer/6863182676.html
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    There is a little more involved, but if done right you can make it work. I drove a 521 with a 79 620 lower control arms, tension rods, and spindle assembly/hubs with 1990 Nissan hardbody V6 rotors/calipers, I used Nissan 720 upper control arms that were lengthened 3/4", but I had issues with the upper control arm mount bolts, they were too weenie but in the end I bought longer bolts that I could put a big washer and nuts on the back side of the tower near the shocks to keep them bolts tight, I drove it this way for years, but I also had power steering and that destroyed the frame where I had the steering gear mounted. I decided that them upper control arm mount bolt holes needed to drilled out and threaded/tapped to use 720 mount bolts, but I never did this so I do not know if there are any issues if one does this. If it was easy to do what you are talking about everyone would do it, but not everyone does it, but it is possible. The biggest issue I had was the upper control arm mount bolts kept getting loose and breaking on me when I hit the brakes which totally sucks, I kept tightening them bolts till they either broke from being too tight or it stripped the threads out of the mounts and that was why I ended up with big washers and nuts on the back side.
  40. 1 point
    +1 on the Porterfield R-4S pads. Been using them for years on my 510s for street use. They are easy on the rotors, low dust, work well when cold, and have plenty of reserve for canyon carving. Honestly, I would run the full carbon R-4 compound on the street if they didn't dust the wheels and squeal so much when cold. They work as good or better than the -4S compound when cold, but fully handle the heat of full race conditions.
  41. 1 point
    fat side is toward the rear. narrow up front. This is how my 2 deg lowering blocks are. Its. or one can raise the carrier bearing but abit also to help. crap I had a nice steering wheel and gave it away!!!!! I woud just get some rubbing compound and degreaser for the engine bay and call it good. I think looks fine as it is. plus its cheaper. just lower it done!!!!!!
  42. 1 point
    All I know is that’s the baddest 210 head on the planet.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Can’t wait to get my new fully built FJ20 on the dyno.
  46. 1 point
    Just a little update as we fast approach the date, I’d like to talk about trophies. There Will be a few trophies given out and They are going to be a little different than previous years. The trophies are being MADE more like the trophies you’d see at hot rod shows. If you imagined something like crossed piston rods and gears you’d be pretty much on the money. The trophies will be art, however I am having data plates made to be attached that will say “best paint” “best daily” etc etc. If anyone is artistic in this way and would like to volunteer to make a trophy to be presented on Sunday please PM me. Club pick is Something I’d love to see happen and if a club or clubs out there would like to make one that would be amazing! As of now the510keeper has volunteered to make and present “best paint” and I am making the mouse trap. Others trophy classes can be found on the original post of this thread. Also something else this year, we are doing a 50/50 raffle so 3 people will be winning CASH!! That way all winners get the prize they really wanted. Looking forward to to hearing from anyone wanting to be involved with this. Thanks -Jbird-
  47. 1 point
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr My other Falcon will go in the coupe. Not a big wood guy.
  48. 1 point
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Well Im going to need carbs, so why not go with Mikuni's, FJ or 1800, I will figure that out as the time comes.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
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