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  1. 11 points
    here is just a few pix of what is going on with grimace, it still needs the snugtop canopy finished and painted and installed and cut n buff. it looks better in the sun, i tried to upload pix while it was in sun but i have to figure out my new phone and be able to free up some space on it to save pix to one drive and then upload like i just did with these pix
  2. 8 points
    Had another work night last night to make "final" preparations for the race next weekend. Sam started by painting and installing a radiator guard - made from Home Depot expanded metal "pet door" or something like that. Perfect size right out of the package. Jeff set about cutting the fenders and installing the flares. No hesitation at all destroying those nice freshly painted fenders! Sam also set about trying to repair the wheel we bent last year at ORP and unfortunately (but not surprisingly) cracked it in the process so we now find ourselves in a mad dash to find a spare 15x8 JNC 006 (cheap Rays C28N copy) wheel. Sorry I don't have a picture of the damaged wheel. I ordered a replacement through https://sparktecmotorsports.com/ this morning. I talked with Danny (awesome customer service!!!!) and he's submitting my order to https://jncwheels.com/ but with the holiday Monday (news to me as of about 10pm last night) shipping might be tight so we are still hoping to find a local replacement. Other than that, Jeff welded on the new mirror mounts and Sam and I spent the night re-installing all the other stuff we took off for paint. I even added stainless gutter trim! With the flares installed, it looks the part now but really needs some color! The sticker package for this race series is getting pretty massive so Friday night the car should look pretty different.
  3. 8 points
    Well if somebody still wants to do something on that weekend, I have room for about 20-25 cars at my house. I’ll even let you camp in my yard. And of course there will be rules, respect my property and neighbors. My business shop has a decent parking lot for a meet and plenty of places for a fun run. You’ll just have to drive a little further to Southern Oregon
  4. 8 points
    We heard a rumor yesterday that motorsports in WA are back on. We are still awaiting official word from LuckyDog but if it's true, we've got some work to do! I figured we should spend an evening sanding the car and then come back Saturday to mask and paint. The boys figured we could do it all in one night. Okay then, here we go! Jeff brought out the big gun! He gave Sam a little wire wheel and expected him to keep up! The race is on! While they were busy making noise, I was hand sanding the hood, trunk, doors, and RF fender. My arms felt like they were going to fall off! Fortunately we got a little burrito break before returning to the garage for a little bondo session. And after MORE sanding - it was time to mask what little bit of the car we weren't painting. Don't forget the accoutrements! Spray time! After about a coat and a half... One color! As good as it's going to get for a while anyway... Let's see how many colors it is after the race in 2 weeks. : )
  5. 8 points
    Yeah, no. It doesn't work that way at all. The spread is really only a problem while the virus is novel. Once a decent percentage of the population has had it and developed immunity it becomes much less of an issue, you can think of each resistant person as a roadblock to spread (herd immunity). While novel anyone can be infected and spread it, once a certain percentage of the population has resistance to it the spread is severely hampered. And I won't even it get into the extensive evidence that the mortality rates and models originally used are horribly flawed bullshit. The very short form is the best evidence (from now multiple sources and methodologies) shows the mortality rate across all ages as an average is about 0.1- 0.5% (this likely varies for a bunch of reasons I won't get into), but lets say overall average is about 0.5% and with (simplifying this a bit) infectivity about 1.5 times greater than the flu, mostly as it is novel. For some comparison the flu averages a mortality rate of 0.1% and a bad flu year like 2017-2018 is about 0.3%. In reality aside from the repercussions to the response to it (shutdowns etc...) the actual disease consequences will become less and less of an issue with time. Now for credentials: I've mentioned I'm a PhD biologist before, but I actually work as a virologist. There is actually a whole long ass story about what my areas of specialization are and why they vary so much- short form is some stuff pays better. In fact we've been pulled off other projects to work on this happy bullshit which I'm less than thrilled with to be honest. What's funnier is I'm actually married to one of the original SARS researchers so the work I'm doing now is extremely similar to what she was doing many years ago.
  6. 7 points
    Got my grill back from Chrome yesterday and took it for a spin, took some pics.
  7. 7 points
    Thanks for all the positive vibes gentlemen! Check out this grill emblem that I made, I cut it on the water jet at my last job... Let me know what you think!
  8. 7 points
    Block people from working. Saddle everyone with debt. Give out "relief" money and eventually "basic income" to make people entirely dependent on handouts. People elect & continue to elect party that promises continued handouts.
  9. 7 points
    I think the statistical data needs to be cleared up. just because you tested positive for Covid19 after death doesn’t mean you died from Covid19. but $8000 paid per life being marked down as Covid means their going to count everything as Covid. Glaring failure right there. The data pool has shit floating in it.
  10. 7 points
  11. 7 points
    On a completely different note, I finally parted ways with my 99 Chevy Silverado... 288,500 miles... and even more rust than I realized... so many things were beginning to fail, it was just time..... served me well over 13 years... So I decided to go back to a nissan... i had a 93 pathfinder for years and I loved it not to mention my 521, so I looked at some nissan frontiers and found this..... Just got it home today.... 2012 Nissan Frontier pro-4x... Very happy with the decision, it was an hour ride home and my ass didnt fall asleep, I was happy about that. My wifes old car I would be dieing after 20 minutes, seats were awful.. all in all the ride was nice, nothing felt weird on the highway and I was getting 20mpg with the 4.0 v6......
  12. 6 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr So bed is 90% done. ANDDDDDDDDD FUCK IT, truck cab is coming off and we are going to finish it. I will bring frame home and engine swap at my house and clean and paint or powder it, we will see. this truck is going to be on a whole new level.
  13. 6 points
    Bought a few more advertisement pieces and a matching rally 510. Hoping to do a sort of shadow box display with it.
  14. 6 points
    Notice the moving goalposts. We were never waiting for a vaccine, the lockdowns were to "flatten the curve" to avoid overwhelming the hospitals. Now the tune has changed and the ones signing that tune all belong to one political party. Strange how that happens.
  15. 6 points
    There is, it is called a bridge.
  16. 6 points
  17. 6 points
    I have been working on some heater boxes for my 521 trucks. I am just starting this post, I have around 50 pictures, and probably need to take some more. I cleaned and painted two heater boxes, and a plate that goes over the hole in the cab above the transmission in January 2020. You will need to clean paint and primer out of the threaded holes to reassemble the heater. A good way to do this is the chase the threaded holes with a tap. I found this tap and drill set at a hobby shop. I have used all five of the tap sizes in the set, and as a bonus, you get the drills that are the right size for the taps. It is hard to get the proper size drills for the taps. The drills are not a normal fractional size. I cleaned the squirrel wheel fan, using a mixture of a few drops of Dawn dishwashing detergent in a spray bottle of water. I used these brushes and tools to clean the fan. The squirrel wheel fan is 50 year old plastic. be gentle with the fan. I scraped dirt off the motor with the knife. Do not scrape on the fan. I sprayed the Dawn and water on the fan, gently used the tooth brush and the paint brush to remove grime. I wrapped a paper towel around the wood stick to wipe each blade of the fan, both sides. Before cleaning. I also gently used the rounded point of an old test light to remove crud from the root of the fan blades. This is after cleaning. The fan motor has three thick rubber grommets to hold it in the heater box. Most of the rubber grommets are deteriorated, hard, or just fall apart when you touch them. I found new rubber grommets, and 1/2 inch rubber washers with a 1/4 hole at Ace Hardware store. In this picture, a new grommet is put in the mounting hole of the fan motor. The new grommet is not as thick as the old rubber grommet was, so I put a rubber flat washer on each side of the grommet. in the picture, from right to left is the #10-32 screw, a thin metal washer, a rubber flat washer, a brass bushing, and on the left side of the fan mounting hole with a grommet, another flat rubber washer. I put all three new grommets in the fan motor mounting holes, then I put the brass bushing in the grommets. I pushed the bushing toward this side of the fan motor, so they stick out on this side. See upper right corner in this picture. Then I put one rubber flat washer on each brass bushing. To seal the back side of the fan motor, put some foam weather strip tape in the heater box. The fan and motor can now go in the heater box. Put the motor wires through the hole in the top of the heater box, Then you can carefully put the screws in. This is actually the third screw I put in, it is the most difficult because it goes in the narrowest place. By putting the other two screws in loosly, it alighns the hole in the fan motor with the heater box hole. Now I am tightening the fan screws. This is what the fan screws look like when tightened. with the fan and motor in the box, I tested the fan motor with a 12 volt battery. Another picture test, with flash off the camera. The fan was spinning in both pictures, but with the flash off, the exposure of the picture was longer, so the fan is blurred. There is a more coming on this post, but I now I am tired.
  18. 6 points
    Let me make this even simpler..... just stay 2 meters away and go naked.
  19. 6 points
    I have been working on the back side of the radiator core, outside of the inner fenders. I've done done some weld repair, closed the gap in some flanges, removed rust as best I could, and sprayed etch and epoxy primer. There are a lot of areas that are hard to get to to remove rust, old paint and primer. One of the tools I use is this wire wheel. I sometimes put this extension on the wire wheel, and turn the wire wheel with a drill. The wire wheel seems to work better for me with lower RPM, and I reverse the drill quite often, because the wires on the wheel bend away from the direction of rotation. By reversing the rotation of the wheel, the wires then dig into the rust pits deeper. Treating the rusted areas with a phosphoric acid solution also changes the rust, and makes the rust easier to dig out with the wire wheel. In some areas I go over with the wire wheel, then phosphoric acid solution, wire wheel again, more phosphoric acid, and wire wheel again. There are two pockets on the backside of the radiator core with body mounts under them. I wanted to remove the body mount, and the bolt holding it. Because these bolts art under the truck, they probably have rust on them, and can easily break if you just try to remove the nut. The first thing I do us use the small wire wheel and clean the threads on the bolt sticking out past the nut. Then I apply a penetrating oil. You can by or use your favorite penetrating oil, i have found a mix of ATF, and Acetone works as good as anything else. Seven hours later, really, I sprayed an etch primer on the back side of the left side of the radiator core. And after that etch primer had sat the recommended time, I sprayed epoxy primer. That was last Sunday, yesterday on Monday I worked on the right back side of the radiator core support. A closer view of old body work, and rust, and a bad repair. I do not recall If I did this, If I did it was in the 1970's. Anyway, after another long day of fixing what I could, and removing rust and old paint I could reach, I sprayed this side with etch primer, Then I sprayed epoxy primer on the back right side of the core support. The above was Tuesday, and Friday it was warm enough to paint again. I sprayed some gray Centari here, and here. Really, the paint is the same color. Even though the sun was setting, and behind trees, the left side was toward the sun, the right side was away from the sun. On Sunday, I did two small weld repairs on the top of the radiator core. Then I masked off the back side of the radiator core, and put two old mud covers on the back side to prevent over spray from getting to that side of the core. Then a light sand on good paint in the front of the core, heavier sanding where needed, sprayed bare metal with SX 1071/1072, followed by DP40LF, and then black Centari.
  20. 6 points
  21. 6 points
    Arguing this any further would require discussion that is frowned upon here.Again the target is ONE individual,that individual is the only one that has anything to lose.The others have nothing to lose,they lost several years ago and have been losing ever since.
  22. 6 points
    Very short answers: It is worse than the flu but not 20-40 times worse as predicted more like 2x. I'm not saying no precautions should have been taken, just what was done was an over-reaction. But since it is new more people will initially get sick. The projections and models by Dr. Ferguson were almost criminally wrong and he actually has a history of massively overpredicting deaths. Herd immunity isn't a one and done, it is slowing an exponential number over time, any herd immunity starts slowing the spread. Also, the 60% is a massively overinflated number based on the worst case scenario "reproduction number" for spread. It appears to be nowhere close to that bad. Reality is way messier on both spread and immunity, these are after all projections. Also, the 0.5% mortality rate even for a 60% infected herd immunity and 990k dead assumes an even distribution of deaths, which it very much isn't. The mortality rate is extremely skewed to those over 60 or already sick. In healthy people under 60 the mortality rate is extremely low, the 0.5% is an AVERAGE based on all ages. Without seriously digging into the stats I don't believe that takes into account the actual distribution of ages in a population, especially in the US which is quite different from European countries (for example, off the top of my head I believe Italy has the highest number of elderly of any European population). From the Italian health authority the median age of the people who died was 80 and 99% had a some other preexisting condition. From a pure statistical viewpoint (not ethically) the best outcome is the under 50s who are all healthy all going out and getting infected as there are very unlikely to die from it, and therefore halt the spread, but sequestering and taking precautions for those who are elderly or immune compromised. But in reality that is true for a whole bunch of things in life. If you are old and/or sick you are just more likely to die. Not to be crass about their deaths but the reality of it is that the vast majority of the people who died from COVID were likely to die of something soon anyways. Long answer. Oh it is worse than the flu, that is why I posted those numbers just not amazingly worse. Somewhere between 2x and 5x times worse assuming the mortality 0.5% number is accurate. A bad flu year is 80,000 deaths. However, that is still not justification to shutdown everything. Looking at the response Sweden did which was way less restrictive and there mortality was right in the middle of the pack for European countries, neither lower nor higher. Indicating the extreme efforts undertaken elsewhere where basically useless or at least very ineffective. Because this is a "novel" virus and supposed has a spread slightly more than the flu on a weak year and about the same as on a bad year you will see more people initially coming down with it. Some of the antibody tests in NY were giving numbers as high as 20% of the population already had it, although I suspect that is somewhat high do to an inherent inaccuracy in the nature of the test as it may detect antibodies against closely related viruses. However, that may also suggest there is already some minor resistance to it due to prior infection with a closely related coronavirus, I wouldn't be surprised if that is why there is such a large mostly asymptomatic population. The models based, for example on the Santa Clara study which was predicting as low as a 0.1% or even lower for mortality rate, I suspect were under predicting the mortality due to the % error in the nature of the antibody test. It gets messy here on the how and why and some of it is proprietary stuff I'm actually working on so I can't comment. I will note though the model they derived to calculate total population deaths was actually way closer to the actual measured number (they calculated 100 for their area population, actual was 54). So something is definitely going on. Without repeating myself on the herd immunity, there are many diseases with higher "infectivity" that do not spread as far even under historical conditions. The short answer being reality is exceptionally more complicated with more variables than the simple spread models. The models sort of do the "assume a spherical cow" shorthand for an upper theoretical limit. The major hospitals aren't overwhelmed though, that is the sort of big lie of omission you are hearing. In NY the hospital ship Comfort left because it was not being used and several of the emergency military hospitals that were setup were dismantled as they were not being used at all. For example take Oregon, we had 115 people die of this in the entire state. and about 2975 test positive. One of the major hospitals in the Portland area for example publishes its numbers. Since this began in about January they had 162 COVID-19 cases to date: 48 inpatient/ED, 114 outpatient Of 48 inpatient/ED patients: 32 discharged, 6 deceased, 10 remain in hospital. So they had about 50 cases requiring hospitalization, OVER A PERIOD OF 5 MONTHS. About half of those I believe were also transfers from other areas. I am unaware of what the hospital load is during the normal or bad flu season so I will leave that unanswered as I can only speculate. I think that addresses all the points, if I've missed one or not addressed one enough let me know. As always this is based on my interpretation of the evidence I've seen and I'm a virologist, not an epidemiologist, although obviously there is a lot of overlap in those fields. But my opinion and others is this is the overall why: Political power https://m.washingtontimes.com/news/2020/apr/28/coronavirus-hype-biggest-political-hoax-in-history/?utm_campaign=shareaholic&utm_medium=facebook&utm_source=socialnetwork Ferguson's Fuckup https://www.nationalreview.com/corner/professor-lockdown-modeler-resigns-in-disgrace/?utm_source=recirc-desktop&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=right-rail&utm_content=top-stories&utm_term=second
  23. 6 points
    Southern Oregon won’t stand for that crap.
  24. 5 points
    I have done more work on Dragon. I put on the lower grill rail, the fenders, the front bumper, side lights, park lights, and the headlights. I do need to take the bumper off again, to get to the lower apron, to paint it. The right front side. Dragon has a pair of Cibie headlights for the high beam. looking forward, low beams. High beams. A few weeks ago, I put this tachometer in Dragon. I need to put a resistor in the tach light wire to dim the light in the tach down. And a picture of Dragon back in the barn where I park it.
  25. 5 points
    You may have noticed that when I was priming and painting the radiator core of Dragon, the front cab mounts were removed from the cab. this is a picture of the bolts and mounts I removed. Yes, one of the bolts was bent. Never mind the rust. The stock front cab mount bolts are 3/8-24, about 2 1/4 long. I went to a local Ace Hardware store, and bought new bolts, and they also had nylon lock nuts, and these thick fender washers. Looking up through the cab mount on the frame, the cab is aligned pretty good with the frame on this side. This is the cab mount that goes under the cab, but on top of the frame. It is hard to tell in this picture, but the metal ring is raised slightly to fit into the larger hole in the frame. I had to lift the cab away from the frame, I just used a crowbar to do that. When I was moving the cab, I unbolted the left side of the radiator to avoid stressing the radiator too much. After lifting the cab, and sliding the mount in between the frame and cab, I used this long punch to center the rubber mount. The mount centered. Then I dropped one new bolt, with a smaller new thick washer in the mount hole. notice the out of focus second mount rubber, washer, and nut. The bolted left mount, looking up. Same mount, side view. The right side was not aligned very well. The left side of the radiator was bolted to the core again, and the right side of the radiator was unbolted. I took a picture this time, but the picture is sideways. I noticed this hole in the front bottom of the inner fender, just behind the cab mount. i could look through this hole, and see the same hole on the other side inner fender, i drilled out that hole too, with a 5/16 drill. 521 cabs are measured in SAE dimensions, i would not dare to use a 8 MM drill. then I used a long piece of 5/16 all thread rod through both holes, side to side, other side, This is the all thread inside the engine compartment, left side. This is the all thread inside the engine compartment, right side. Again I lifted the cab with the crowbar, and slid the cab mount in between the cab and frame, and with the long punch aligned the rubber mount. Everything aligned close enough. Then I bolted the right side of the radiator back to core support. Even though is is not registered to drive on the road yet, i still use Dragon on the farm doing this, and yesterday, I was working on some fence, and the fence tools are loaded in Dragon, and I took Ratsun to get some more fence posts.
  26. 5 points
  27. 5 points
  28. 5 points
  29. 5 points
  30. 5 points
    Thanks for the responses, I figured that it would be pretty easy to square it up after I get the engine in! I will keep you guys posted, the engine is supposed to go in on Sunday... I don't expect it to be completely wired in by then, but at least sitting in there so we can see if it is still leaning hard like it is. Here are some more before and after images since I haven't posted much about my truck yet! You can see the shitty old bucket seats in this picture... The bench seat is whats in it now!
  31. 5 points
    It's a socialist social distance.
  32. 5 points
  33. 5 points
    Los Angeles just shut down for three more months, not all of California Pelosi is trying to run the narrative on this Bill by looking like the Good Guy, while loading it with more Liberal Funded Bullshit and hoping nobody notices. The plan is to make it look like that if anyone opposes her Magic Bullet, you must be a Racist Right Winger who hates everyone and wants people to die! Fuck the Corona shit, there is a Narrative to be pushed up our asses or shoved down our throats! San Diego is opening up more stuff, carefully, but at least they are trying. The Mayor sent Newsom a letter telling him to ease up on us since we have played it pretty well here. We shall see how that goes.
  34. 5 points
    we got a couple crazy months ahead of us
  35. 5 points
    I would call the individual their obsession, he is not one of them and cannot be bought as he don't need their money, they will destroy this country if he is re-elected, this whatever you want to call it is their way of giving us a taste of the future, you think having a hard time getting toilet paper is a bitch, wait till it is hard to get food, this is their way of saying FUCK YOU, we tried to get rid of him, let him feed you now. This lock down shit started in Blue states, this is completely and totally political, it is a Plandemic, they didn't give a rats ass about the 98,000 people that died the last two flu seasons. I hope it don't came down to this scenario above, but it appears that we are on our way down that road, and an ugly road it is.
  36. 5 points
    I heard this called a PLANDEMIC today.
  37. 5 points
    The 60% was calculated using the high end of the predicted reproduction number (R0), which is sort of a bullshit number. I actually dug up the original math used to calculated it just to see myself. That R0 is sort of an educated guess based on a bunch of factors, depending on who makes certain predictions you get a whole range of values, for COVID-19 the spread is 1.4-5.7 for that number which basically means no one has a fucking clue and is pretty much pulling numbers out of their ass based on shitty data. Influenza is 1.4-2.8 depending on strain and a bunch of other factors. SARS is 3.1-4.2, mind you and SARS had a mortality up in the 10%. MERS which was another related one was 34% but a R0 or 0.3-0.8. For comparison Chickenpox is 10-12. For example the common cold and HIV both have an R0 much higher than influenza or the low end of COVID-19 but no one argues for herd immunity for HIV (obviously this is treading on Reducto Ad Absurdum here), but the point is things are very context and spread dependent. the R0 is extremely environmentally dependent on spread and based on mathematical models. The problem with that number is the underlying assumption to do that math is that you want the minimum % needed to provide "herd immunity" to a whole population so that given a single infection point source it can't spread past whatever predefined variable you've set, usually stopping an outbreak or growth (this is a very simplified explanation of this). The problem with these mathematical models is real life has a tendency not to follow mathematical models and your mathematical model is only as good as your starting assumptions. The starting assumptions are only as good as your initial data you use to make those assumptions and we know that was all kinds of faulty. Furthermore, in this case the mathematical model Ferguson used is incredibly fucked up and horribly wrong (See prev post for source). However, Sweden has provided us with a nice natural experiment in that they are predicted to already have achieved herd immunity and their deaths were right in the middle of the pack for Europe, neither higher nor lower. Once again bringing this back to my main point, the shutdowns were predicated on faulty data and shitty models. We now understand that to be the case so further keeping everything shutdown is not a logical course of action with regard to the disease, unless you are using this for political gain.
  38. 5 points
    Dafuq? Really? Why not just feed your dick into a blender on high speed? https://www.news.com.au/lifestyle/health/health-problems/covid19-parties-lead-to-spike-in-coronavirus-cases-in-washington-state/news-story/43375b3e838f26383495f3925912f569
  39. 5 points
  40. 5 points
  41. 5 points
    Now that's what I call a shortbed.
  42. 5 points
  43. 5 points
  44. 5 points
  45. 5 points
  46. 5 points
  47. 5 points
    Hi folks, OK, time to report back my results with the "relay". This may be a long winded post as I want to be as thorough as possible with all the details. So on Thursday I had a friend remove the relay black box. It was a PITA to remove and he had to use a rachet with a phillips screw head inside as those 35 year old screws feel like they are welded shut ! But he got it off and we took a look at it, and LO AND BEHOLD there was immediate evidence of moisture/water damage !! I took 2 photos to show you guys and here are the Dropbox links: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vmp6ixvyljahv9t/DSC00117.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/y8cya29j1qcg9o1/DSC00120b.JPG?dl=0 The first photo shows what appears to be some type of paper cover that sits over the circuit board, I guess to protect it from moisture ? You can see how it seemed to shrink back and also that greenish mildew from water/moisture. Then the 2nd photo shows a line of black bubbly goo that looks to be evidence of some component overheating on the other side of the circuit board. This is definitely NOT solder flux either. My guess is that on the other side there is a burnt out resistor, capacitor, or diode. And now I feel a little stupid. Why ? Because when I first posted I forgot to mention the LEAK that just so happens to be right over where this relay switch is located. Yep, when it rains hard I have been seeing some water on the carpet by the passenger seat. And when I traced it a few days ago (after a HARD rain) I saw evidence that water is getting in by the bottom corner of the front windshield. I had no idea that crucial electronic components would be placed in such a precarious position, so I figured the leak was no big deal. So I took "Datzenmike"s advice and made up a little jumper wire from two 24 gauge phone cable wires twisted together, and I stuck each end in where the diagram showed. Remember that I had already tested the fuel pump and it was pissing out fuel like a drunken sailor. Here is what I noticed in chronological order: 1) When I turned the key to the pre-start position I immediately noticed a sound (by the carb) that I hadn't heard in a LONG time ! This is a rapid fire "clicking" sound (32 or 64 per second), like the speed of a machine gun. The fuel pump makes a buzzing type sound, and that was the only sound I had been hearing since the truck started really acting up. Heck, it's been so long I had forgotten about this sound. But the moment I heard it I remembered it, and when the truck ran good that sound was always there. 2) The truck started up easily and immediately had a nice smooth idle. Before I would have to keep my foot on the gas for at least 1 minute, revving the engine pretty high just to get it where it wouldn't sputter and kill out. It had been a LONG time since the truck started up and idled this easy from a cold start ! 3) I was able to rev the engine VERY high without it sputtering, making fire cracker sounds, etc. It felt a lot smoother for sure, and then when releasing the gas it came back down to a smooth sputter-free idle. 4) So I took her for a ride and WOW -- she hadn't run this smoothly in a long, long time ! So long in fact that I realize this must have been a problem going on for years now. That day I drove her around De Saix Ave. (a close street with a straight run for about 1.5 miles in each direction) for about 30 minutes. Every time I got to the end of the street I would turn around and start from 0mph and get her up to 50mph until the next turn around. I must have done that 15 times before pulling back in to the garage. I was in disbelief that a defective little relay switch could reek so much havoc on the performance of a vehicle, rendering it almost dead ! I let her sit for another 10 minutes and we adjusted the idle on the carb down as it was WAY too high ! Then I took her out on the highway and got her up to 60mph with no problems. The truck was on for over 1 hour all in all, and NOT ONCE did it have anything close to the symptoms it had before ! 5) Another thing I noticed is that the largest fuel hose attached to the carb was significanty less hot than it was before ! I mean, this hose was so HOT before that if you tried to squeeze your fingers around it you would have to remove them in 1 second or you would get burned badly. But now, after running for over 1 hour it is just very warm and I could grab it and hold it for as long as I want and not get burned. I am not sure what this hose is so I took a photo of it for you guys. In Photoshop I made a red line in the middle of it. Here is the Dropbox link to that: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5l0r5dzkxjclzml/DSC00122.JPG?dl=0 I have been running the truck now for several days and it hasn't missed a beat ! It runs better now then it has in years, and also the temp gauge stays lower and never even makes it to halfway before the thermostat opens up -- before the temp needle would go to the halfway mark, then back down a bit once the therm kicked in. So I assume the engine is running cooler as well which was a surprise; I didn't know that a fuel starved carb would cause an engine to run hotter. I am still convinced that the catalytic converter is clogged and needs replacement, but it was definitely not causing the the engine to lock down like it was. So my "to do" list now is: 1) Order a new Relay, or possibly even try to fix the old one myself. It looks as though I can de-solder those pins and access the guts on the other side. If a diode, cap, resistor burned out I can probably get a replacement for pennies. And it's GOOD to know I can remove the relay completely and still run the truck -- so thanks "Datzenmike" for that tip !! I won't leave it like that for more than a week or two at the most. 2) FIX THE LEAK ! I guess I will need to look on Ebay for the full weatherstripping set that seals the front windshield, and maybe the two front doors as well. Any tips on WHAT to buy and WHERE to look for that stuff guys ? 3) Replace the Catalytic Converter. We looked at it closer, and it does appear to be the removable kind -- it has old rusted out bolts and nuts at the inlet and outlet sides. I bought some deep penetrating lube for those, so my buddy said he would like to give it a go. I saw new ones on Ebay for $40 so the cost is no big deal. 4) Re-attach the fuel pump. Right now it is "rigged" in place with wire as the bolt broke off inside the threaded hole upon removal. We are going to have to think outside the box to try and get that re-attached securely. 5) Buy a new gas cap. The old one is in pretty shabby shape and is likely letting moisture into the gas tank. 6) Probably get new hoses from the gas tank to the fuel filter, filter to pump, and pump to carb. Those hoses look as old as the hills to me ! Well, that's about it for now folks. I am so, so grateful to "datzenmike" and "Charlie69" for all of the help you guys provided. It would have been IMPOSSIBLE to figure this out without your help, and I am deeply appreciative. If you have any tips on my "to do" list above I would appreciate that as well. This baby only has 285,000 miles and so I am hoping she is good for another 500k at least !
  48. 5 points
    Even though I just bought a new truck I still had the datsun out instead, going to run a few errands..... just rolled 6000 miles on the odometer... Thought of something interesting, atleast to me, this is almost like a father son picture.... frontier is the same age as my son and my 521 is almost the same age as me... ( I'm only a couple years younger)
  49. 5 points
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Holy SHittttttttttttttttt
  50. 5 points
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