Leaderboard

After referencing this thread several times I started making inner reliefs for the crossmember mount, I marked my center then drew the recessed areas, hammered the shape into the vertical piece, I carefully measured out and drilled the hole spacings and had a centerline marked then clamped it together and welded it only to find that I had confused a errant pencil mark with the centerline and it was 1/8 of an inch off. I cut the thing apart, welded on another piece then carefully measured out and drilled the hole spacings so now it fits, and was easier to make. Then the usual drill for plug welds and tacked it in. With the suspension jig in place it was really hard to cut from the wheel well side so I cut the strut tower bottom from the engine bay and still had trouble getting the rusted piece out. Putting the new piece in was so easy, I just set the top at the right level marked where the side where the bottom needed to be cut slapped on my dirty finger template, drew the line and snipped it off. Welded the one side and bottom the on to the next thing. I stripped the paint off the forward portion of the wheel well and found shiny metal, the crease from an impact had surface rust but most of it was solid. cleaning up the wheel side revealed more surface rust but most had been protected by the thick gobbed on undercoating. I had another piece of old electric fireplace that pretty much the perfect size, cut it to the basic shape and bent the bottom flange with my home made break. The patch I had welded in 20 odd years ago was pretty rusted but the bumper mount was still surviving. With all that cleared out I could weld in the new bumper bracket and start fitting the fill in piece. I carefully laid out the relief, the went at it with the cold chisel first marking one side then the other then using some 18 gauge off cut to get the depth right. I saw this trick on a couple Youtube channels where you line some tape up with the edge, lay your piece over then lay another strip of tape over the first to mark out your cut line, fast and easy. Now that the bottom was fitted it was just trimming adjusting and trimming again till the top edge lined up and curved with the factory metal. Before welding it in I decided to first weld up the holes that were all over the wheel well just in case it distorted the shape and I figured I had a better chance of fixing without the bottom edge held solid. I used the copper trick where you place something copper on one side of the hole and it stops the weld from falling through, it worked OK but I had difficulty with my hands on opposite sides of the panel, it would work easier if it wasn't such a large reach. For the large hole I used Fitzee's coat hanger trick but I didn't have a coat hanger so I used a nail, it did work out fine and it didn't distort much at all. Ready to now weld it in I painted the bumper support held the piece in with the sheet metal screws, the started welding from the bottom flange, leaving the top edge for last because I have the most leeway when welding on the curve. I did have to do some final hammer and dolly work after grinding but it came out very good doing it this way. You can see it in the photo I took after I sprayed on the last of my grey primer. I put rust converter on the outside and while I was waiting for it to work I drilled out the spotwelds on the strut tower gusset, which looks worse than the right side, hmmm, at lease I can go back and look at how I did it the first time. I sprayed some black paint on the outside, took the picture and call it done, till next weekend.

We did a full restoration on the dash pad, a molded skin (the ones you glue on) as a base, we used body filler and blended it all together to form the outer structure. we also reinforced the weak/cracking areas of the dash with g10 fiberglass board and pliogrip plastic repair 10. We also had to modify the glovebox to fit the new dimensions with the plastic skin in place, as well as build a new box out of the same g10 fiberglass board. After the "bodywork" was complete we shot the dash and console with a tinted bedliner. The carpet kit is from newark auto. those guys also were able to peice together a headliner for us from the original skin. Awesome team they have over there, very customer centric

Same great weekend. same details as the years prior. Support the venue, support the community, support your hobby. See your friends, buy some $hit, sell some sh&t. Have some fun! Go see some cool old sh#t in the museums haha.

Clamp is welded on and now housing is at polish shop getting magic on it. Just intercooler piping to go, but been moving slow as I am doing 2 trucks at once and need help with welding skills. I will debut the truck at this years JCCS show.

I would think the little black cover is inserted into the cylinder. And squeezing it will allow to be removed. Push the tab where it meets the metal, then do same for other side New replacement locks don't have the extra wires, although of course genuine Nissan replacement will have them The ignition switch just bolt onto the back of the lock assembly with one or two little screws

Link to the company that built the plane, and a bunch of videos about it. https://cubcrafters.com/redbull

Ah, it was fun, just suspend disbelief and Helen Barkin was bootylicious. Well... at the time. I liked when he jumped out of the ford truck onto the ground and it kept rolling as the rocket/jet engine cooled down after shut off. In the background you can hear a ford engine with severe run on dieseling. Can't find the clip.

We're waisting energy spitting shiny nickels at each other. Opening a post quacking like a devoted party duck on meth is fucking weak sauce. I tdon't buy either sides brainwash BS, because neither side is working for the divided un-united "us" in the US. You're doing exactly what they programed you to do which is to sabotage constructive discourse. We're all being fucked by the same puppet masters. It's a matter of us not fighting us, but uniting together against the greedy vampires holding the levers. If we keep fighting on their R&L axis NOTHING HAS OR EVER WILL CHANGE!!! For your own sake, pull your head out if your ass and stop playing their game. "Rationality" is a collection of concepts and guidelines related to making sound decisions and judgments. Key ideas include maximizing objective data and information, expected utility, minimizing cognitive biases, and employing logical reasoning. This is also the basis for productive discourse with others. "Ad Hominem Attack" is a type of deflection that shifts focus from the argument itself to the individual presenting it. Instead of addressing the substance of the argument, an opponent attacks the other's character, motive, or applying other irrelevant attributes to the individual making the argument. This is counterproductive to rational discourse. "Self-Destructive Loyalty" is when a person's devotion to a person, group, or false ideal leads them to damaging their own interests, and success. This can manifest with staying in abusive relationships, rejecting positive opportunities, or consistently undermining their own potential for achievement. "Circumvention of The US Constitution" A government serving the interests of wealth, privilege, and abuse of power is a futile system that renders government ineffective and incapable of achieving its intended purpose. It's result is wasted effort and no meaningful outcomes towards serving the greater good. It's a system where attempts to provide prosperity for the governed are made ultimately unsuccessful by design. This feeds corruption to where the structure, processes, and resources of government are diverted to benefit the top, and public generated tax funds are grossly inadequate to produce the people's desired results.

Here is a 720 jack set just posted on Facebook.Has the 2 clips to hold the jack rod to the back panel.

Here is mine.Nissan still sells the black pouch.I have new clips that hold the jack rod to the back panel.New Nissan type are black.I bought 8 of them.

I am not using the metal lines. I just have a rubber fuel line from the pump to the carb. Yeah, it's got me pulling my hair out. 🙂

Drove the car about ten miles today, and nary a problem. I didn't touch the control arms, so the caster and camber setting should be fine. I did a slight toe adjustment, and other then the wheel being just slightly clocked to the right, I'm hoping it'll be a quickie at the alignment shop. I measured very carefully where the tie rod ends were, and put them back on the new rack exactly in the same spot. Other then the steering wheel clocking, it drives great as is now. I found a group of guys that have some old cars, with old drivers (that includes me) and they meet at a local donut shop on the 1st and 3rd Thursday of every month. It was a beautiful morning, and it's nice finding some guys that have a common interest.. I love having the car working correctly again. Gonna charge the AC this weekend.

Got it on and light comes on.

Holy resurrection Batman. Truck is put back together, ka24de and trans are in. Lots of parts sitting around waiting to be sold or used. Does anyone have a pair of sidedrafts sitting around? 😂

Certainly good enough for who they're for, and considering they'll never be seen again it doesn't matter. Just hard to fathom after all those utube videos and a lifetime combined experience of at least 8 hours, how I'm not a professional level aluminum welder.