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Guess who was right.... Bad crank angle sensor... They even said they want to get an oem one because anything aftermarket sucks.... Should have it back today....

Hello fellow enthusiasts, been a lurker for a while and I can proudly say I have joined the fold last week with a purchase of a 74' 620! I haven't done a complete run through of her since I've been buryed with snow but I do know she's a 5 speed L18. She came with plenty of work already done however she far from where I want her. Here's a list of my goals with this project and what I'll be picking yalls brains about! She's going to be part time cruiser/ part time drifter. I've put a few things sideways but now I finally have my project. Ball joint conversion Rear-end strengthening

You're welcome. Hope he can send it. Randy's a good guy.

You have definitely done this truck justice. Beautiful!!!

Welds are ehhh.... but they’re strong. I could have got after it with a grinder, but they just fucking seat mounts. Besides these pics, no one will see them. got the other seatbelt out of the 69 dime. Started mounting it in the this car. Same procedure, through the floor, seal, bolt down. still hunting for more appropriate vinyl. I’ll check locally. Not holding my breath.. I don’t really want the inner rockers to look like an extension of the seats.

got the interior vinyl sample but it’s not like the factory pattern. It’s better than what I got on amazon, but a smaller print for sure. got the drivers side seat brackets finished and painted. I had to modify one bracket to add an anchor to the factory seatbelt mount since I relocated the mount to the seat.

If you’re planning on drifting it, you’ll want to go coils. How good are you with a welder? The only 620 drifter I’m familiar with was Chad’s. It was covered by Motor Mavens. To my knowledge most of this is custom work. https://motormavens.com/center-stage-datsun-620-warmachine-pickup-sr20de/

Puking out radiator fluid came first, then I discovered moisture on a spark plug. For some reason water never turned up on the dipstick. As long as your head/block aren't warped or cracked I'd stick with your J engine. Parts are easy to get. Pulling the head off is not too big of a project and you can just replace your headgasket while you're in there. There's even a good video on youtube about adjusting the valves on a J engine. I did mine recently and it was maybe a 5 hour project. And I work slow.

I did. I got the K667 kit, which comes with the manifold for a 620, plus the linkage. So, I guess I didn’t get the 521 specific manifold. My guess is that the runners on the 521 manifold are much smaller in diameter on the head side, since all 521’s ran the 210 heads with tiny ports. The manifold I got (MT-0037-C) does have a picture. It’s a 2-piece unit, and the guy on the phone went and grabbed one and measured it for me. It’s exactly 38mm (1.5”) which is the same as the ports on my head.

Did you get the intake from them too? I have always entertained the idea of adding a 2nd weber but I've done so much work to make my single work.. I ask because i saw a 521 specific manifold for dual 40s being offered as well as a couple others which I never saw available before.... of course no pictures on the website of the one I wanted to see.... I'm just glad to see more new things available for these old trucks....

If that falls through, I'll get my hands on the one down here. Actually I totally forgot, there was one in the wrecking yard local to me. Just now thought about it. 😐 So lets say, there are at least 2 down here.

I need to copy this. I have so many things ran above the engine and one less will be that much nicer 😄

My Clutch Master we getting pretty bad - so I decided to replace the Clutch master and slave cylinders. Well, the non stock 7" booster makes it really hard. I found the factory 4" booster on RockAuto about a year ago and never installed it, so now looked like a good time ... because I had to! Before: New 4" booster and new clutch cylinder with my 15/16" Also - - - -I ordered the conversion kit from Beebani so I can upgrade to the larger rotors and Z32 4 piston front brakes for my D21 spindles. Should be here a a fe

Soon to be retired. So now all I do is work at thinking things up.

Today's Episode - "Pounding out panels" Ok, so its not plural. Its just one panel. But its basically done. I welded up all the seams. the outer corner in particular came out really nice. I was able to remove basically all evidence of the welds without grinding through. Then worked on grinding back the rest of the seams They didn't come out as nice as the outer corner, but still pretty good. I think this will probably be upholstered eventually, but even if not, I think I could hide the worst of it with some high bu

I assume you mean coupe tail lights? (not all SSS cars were coupes and not all coupes were SSS) They are readily available on yahoo Japan. Here is a current listing for instance: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p831516709

Here are a couple more pics of the booster vacuum line. The port off the engine is 10mm, so I figured 3/8" coated fuel line should be fine and it has been so far. I used the correct vacuum hose so it would not collapse.

When I had my 69 Ghia, I made the mistake of putting poly transaxle mounts in. The next weekend I took them out, they transferred the engine vibration to the body and the noise was terrible. If you want to "feel the road", add all poly crap.

Probably more just being way over loaded. Those were definitely light duty springs with at minimum medium duty load. I wasn't especially easy on them either. Lucky for me I had previously coated all of the hardware in an excessive amount of anti seize, so I was actually able to get all the bolts out. I did manageto snap the other lower shock stud though. In other news I worked on the mustang again. Thinking about making some mustang flavored bullets now that I have all this lead laying around. That hole by the drip rail

It hasn't exactly been made illegal but reporting "misleading" information (or "news" as some organisations refer to it) is being censored to ensure only the correct information is allowed to be seen.........you just have to agree with the censors point of view/political inclination.

Indeed. I split my factory harnesses to tuck out of sight, back of the engine, under exhaust, along valve cover or fuel rail. What were they thinking not using your billet bell crank? Chopper Jim

Ranman72 says he has one from an '81. I told him he should hit you up. Maybe you should DM him and see if he'll ship it to you.

Glute salute !

Those look different, but similar. Could probably make them work.

Gonna try this again

yeah, I was going to mention getting owner to part with Datsun hoard might be challenge but didn’t want you to be discouraged so I didn’t add that in... I also thought maybe a female voice could get better results.. haha This 210 was very nice with front end damage not rusty like everything out at coast usually is.. If I had to guess ,, that damn truck lid is still there somewhere.. lol Send message to @dat521gatherer he's not on here much anymore but he might know if there’s a cheap one anywhere near Tacoma .. there was a 210 on a pile at I-Kan

I never seen a head gaske pop on all the cylinders like that before. You sure your intake gasket on the other side is tight as it can suck in water thru there, esp to the 2 inner or all cylinders if there is a week spot (Not tighten intake down right) Remeber this statment!!!! alot off loose gasket on the intake make it look like a headgasket. Nissan or Zcardepot has a Japan made head gasket Felpros ok on L16s

^ Yeah, I ran a combo of 11/32" vacuum tubing and 3/8" coated steel fuel line under the booster and tucked behind the engine because the port is on the other side. I used my tubing bender to make a 180 degree turn under the booster.

@Gery Do you have any pictures of it by chance? I wanted to do something similar but use the tonneau rails/ends from a different truck and cut them to fit - then cut my own vinyl to match. I eventually gave up as my vinyl order got delayed for months when the lockdown kicked in.

I haven't given up yet and am exploring a few potential alternative methods. Top 2 candidates for a replacement seal presently are: 1) to use a rubber cord and trim to length + bond into the frame. Potential issue is round cord into square channel with risk of leakage. The cord will flow around the corner curve without buckling, so that holds some promise. 2) is to use a pour-in-place material (Vytaflex polyurethane rubber) but the UV stability isn't fully established yet in my conversations. Maybe not a concern if it will suffice for several years as it could be re-made.

Eh. I'm too busy watching someone rebuild their 620 4X4. Can only youtubes so much!

You'll know him by his misspelling of timing...

BTW he goes by Hainz or Banzai510 around here 🙂

Timing Dragon Master. Nice. 😄

It didn't look rusted so I opened the rubber with a plastic prying tool and cleaned it with qtips acetone and we applied the urethane the same way, the urethane was super hard to apply with a caulk gun so i broke the tube and applied by hand with a plastic tool ,it was very messy but I cleaned it with acetone

No problem. I used them for some stupid s*** I did for a friend. They seemed alright. If you’ve done this type of work before you’ll be fine. If this is your first time I’d suggest making a good paper template then sewing it together using cotton or thin canvas. Once you’ve got it all done you’ll see where your seams are off and just add that much to your paper template when you sew the vinyl.

looks good

Love this truck, so good. B)

Found a place to take some photos

Perfect!!

Post the video!!! 😉

Farmer: dang that thing looks good, i wish i had bought it when it was for sale but i didn't know of all the work that it needed when you bought it, i am glad that it went to you

Looks good. I also had to fab a throttle cable bracket on my 74.

I can see your photos. You really should use an EI coil, they are everywhere, I believe any 1978+ Datsun/Nissan coil will work.