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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/06/2021 in all areas

  1. Ok,I need some help on this one. Who is she looking at? Is there a new app that allows individual eye movement, like a lizard? What's with the charcoal ring around her lips? Has she been huffing black paint? I feel bad for her, because being deployed sucks, and it must suck triple without friends. Even a "sorta" friend would have stopped that picture. "Don't post that picture girl, if you turn it sideways, then your lips look like a puffy butt hole..."
    2 points
  2. The desire to drive my truck is killing me! Thankfully nicer weather is coming, but unfortunately the cold is not good for painting things.... I should be able to get the garage hot enough before I start I'll just have to paint quick .... it's an open flame heater so I won't run it while painting just incase.... I plan to coat everything in por 15 and as I mentioned I have a gas tank sealer for the exposed metal on the inside, both want warmer temperatures to work .... I got to work disassembling everything ..... And started cleaning up and welding up the
    2 points
  3. Not until she fixes her fingernails... Also, she has a “medical” job badge, so she’s taking ‘watching other wamen piss in a cup’ to Iran.
    2 points
  4. Honestly ,, i bet he probably just turns advance into it then lugs it up Scott Lake hill,, and backs it off till it doesn't ping.. I wouldn't change anything about the plate.. Nothing I have points in mine so shouldn't be any clearance issues at all for me .. Points aint no big thing ,, easily serviceable, and cheap,.. I like fiddling with things once in a awhile.. I read an article once in road and track type magazine about this rich movie star that drove a triumph spitfire ( that was known to have to be fixed on side of road) He said " i like driving cars t
    2 points
  5. I also made a shift knob for the car. Don't know if Tim likes it or not yet...
    1 point
  6. Posting this again here, since some of you aren’t on Facebook. The Nismo head gasket blocks off the front water bypass. Should I modify the head gasket, or leave it blocked off?
    1 point
  7. How would this work on the hitachi? Just curious.
    1 point
  8. Too late now.... I probably should have, I see what your seeing in the picture, I did weld to clean metal, but the paint close by was bubbling, which is what your seeing.... the frame is a little lower where I welded....
    1 point
  9. Well I was right wire just ran out... I'm about half way through welding up the frame, so I got the wire replaced and made some lunch.... The one good thing about welding all the small brackets, was when it came time to do some real welding I already had a bunch of practice .... Real happy with how my welds are looking.....
    1 point
  10. I do keep them in the house, well in the basement which stays warmer than the garage...
    1 point
  11. The a380? I think there were only like 4 American airports that could accept it
    1 point
  12. It may not stand a chance then. I wonder how much rework it needed
    1 point
  13. Maybe it will fly off and disappear in the southern Indian Ocean.
    1 point
  14. Put all your paint supplies in your heated house a couple days before you want to use them. Keep them there as most paint products will freeze.
    1 point
  15. Is your garage heated? Too cold for me to do anything down here.
    1 point
  16. Btw ..it would go like this.."we know your in there flat tire man!" Come out with your hands up where we can see em...."there he is Johnson...looks like hes been using that green slime and huffing fix a flat"..im ..im..coming out...d.dont shoot...HES not WeariNg a Mask!!! Babag banG!! Capow cablamo!! . Live from CNN bikk can you tell is more about what happened there at the scene.. Well mary it seems somebody here in this liveley neighborhood took it upon themselves to put others in danger by having theyre tire psi low enough to cause road damage and now governer newsom has de
    1 point
  17. Those are the same people who buy everything online,& then ask - "I wonder why that local store that USED to go to went out of business?"
    1 point
  18. Takes all kinds Patrol. I’m a retired cop from WA and it was getting baaaaad when I hung it up in 13’. You’re underpaid with severe ptsd if you’ve worked a legitimate beat for any time. The first time you see some baby with a deformed head because the mom duct taped it’s mouth after “it wouldn’t shut up”, you arrest a grandfather who raped his 5 year old grandson because “he was asking for it”, you go to a “strange odor” call and find a woman whose corpse has been sexually penetrated in every single one of the 33 stab wounds she died from by her lawful husband and suspected murdere
    1 point
  19. I have started gathering parts and doing some mods/repairs to the body tub and suspension. Sprite parts are definitely more readily available than Datsun parts, which makes this easy, but they do add up. I figured I will have over $3000 just into the front suspension parts when it is ready to hit the track. I also bought a Ron Davis radiator from Speedwell. Gorgeous piece. Here are some pics of the front frame repairs. I also ditched the old nose and fit a new one from my donor Midget. Just a photo dump. If you have questions, I'd be glad to explain.
    1 point
  20. Work on the race car has officially begun. I bought a donor Midget which was a running car, so now I have just about every mechanical component and the front body panels. Some of the later components aren't the same, like the steering column, so I will have to come up with a few other used parts. The list of new parts I need is huge, and totals over $8K for chassis/suspension parts. I'll have to chip away at that list because we chose this year to pay off some debt too. One item that I've always wanted is an engine test stand. Using pieces of the donor car, I built this -
    1 point
  21. We both used L bell housings on 85-86 720 short trannys Got it buttoned up Friday night and drove up to All Japanese Classic in Vancouver BC on Saturday -Sunday..
    1 point
  22. I cannot really change the plate, there is around a 1/8th inch of total room to play with between the distributor and the L block transmission inner case for the starter, the starter can only be clocked so much before the cone on the end will hit the flywheel, and I am not sure if the cone on the end of the starter is made to work at anything but close to 90 degrees, that cheap metal could start breaking. The MG starter or the aftermarket starter with no end could give him more distributor clearance, but the MG distributors are cheap and clear the starter easily, also if he just turned hi
    1 point
  23. I use this timing light, it's the only one that has not quit working so far and I have had lots of them over the decades. The timing marks on the crank pulley have to be the same if the pulleys are the same size, how could they be different with them being the same size, if the Z20/L20 pulley had been bigger, then the marks would have been spaced farther apart, smaller and they would be closer together, they are both 4 stroke engines so the marks have to be the same on the J15 and L20b since the pulley size is the same, 180 degrees and 360 degrees are what they a
    1 point
  24. I do not know what you mean or are referring to by this post. So this is what I came up with for the marks on my crank pulley, I thought about it and figured if the crank pulley on the Z20 was the same size as the one on the J15 then they likely were compatible mark wise, so I figure the timing marks on my J15 are 0, space, 10,15, 20 degrees. I get conflicting data on where the J15 is supposed to be timed, my searches have resulted in several different results, I do not know the year of my J15 engine, it is setup for the front engine mounts like what are in the 320 and 520,
    1 point
  25. OK, I cannot get the Matchbox to work all that well, I cannot get it past the middle timing mark on the crank pulley, I tried several ways but cannot use any other post without clearance issues, now I understand JJ is really liking it but I really would like to know what mark his is timed at. I have an older MG unit with a Crane ignition system I bought off of ebay back when I started the electronic ignition thread for the E1 block below, I put it on this block and wired it up and it runs great, I have full range for timing without clearance issues. https://ratsun.net/topic/71387-ele
    1 point
  26. I am trying to figure out what the timing marks are on the crank pulley, is it 0, space, 4, 6, 8? Or is it 0, space, 6, 12, 18, what is it, what do the marks mean on the crank? Here is a photo of my crank pulley on my J15. I have looked in my manuals I have and I searched it and came up with nothing, I need to figure this out to give JJ options if I can. MG parts like the distributor are interchangeable between the E, and J blocks, I have electronic ignition on my E1 block in my L320 kingcab that is still positive ground, the MGs have aftermarket support while
    1 point
  27. Tails do wag dogs - what I mean is, maybe there aren't a lot of J motors out there because J motor owners can't find good aftermarket parts to make their cars more driveable. A 5 speed conversion was a game changerfor MG and Austin Healey owners...
    1 point
  28. He installed, i just was his go to guy for brain storming and welding what he brought over that he fabricated up .. A bit of trial and error on shifter I took pictures but my PC is having a hard time reading them off my phone so only a couple are able to be uploaded right now... I'll use a different device and retake and post. parts that went just as in thread. J13 throw out bearing and collar was used .. original arm was used ( one with adjuster hole in it) ball was stacked with 3 washers ,, ( i believe 2 would have done it) got no pictures at all of that
    1 point
  29. So you have installed a 5 speed in JJs 411 with a J13. What all had to be done to accomplish this install? Did just grinding the transmission case for the exhaust to clear work, or was more grinding required? Any other mods required to the plate? What did you do for the transmission mount? What throw out bearing did you use, did you shim the pivot ball and how much? You have a photo of the shift lever hole and what you had to do(new hole)? I would like to know of any issues.
    1 point
  30. it's running a very mellow RPMs at 73 mph ,,, pulls the car around in fifth,, easy at 60 . I'm sending one of my short 720 trannys to our re builder sometime this week .. I am so fuckin stoked!!
    1 point
  31. OK, so I notched the plate to clear the exhaust, now I have no clue on which direction the pipe is supposed to be pointed, I pointed it straight back. I had to cut a 1/4 inch of the upper exhaust stud to clear the plate, a little more needs to be cut off to clear that transmission bolt head but there is plenty there. You can see how much I ground away, I believe the transmission case can be ground away in that area also without grinding threw. Right now I have no reason to gr
    1 point
  32. It really doesn't make a difference anymore as the napZ case will not work, the stock J series starter works fine. Keep in mind guys the the J series starter is smaller around, the motor and aluminum front part(cone) are smaller, the hole they fit in is 2 5/8" round, the L/Z series starter hole is 3 1/8" round, I suspected the MGB starter was the same size as the J series starter. If the L series starter would have lined up with the J series flywheel I might have went that route but it didn't and I didn't want to add another part(flywheel) that someone needed to find to do a 5 speed
    1 point
  33. Well the re-clocking of the starter a 1/16th inch was successful, I can now get a feeler gauge between the starter and the block, I can't see the space but it is there. I have just over a 1/16th inch clearance here under the distributor also. It could not get much closer to not being possible to make this adapter, I looked into the MG starter again and I have doubts the stock MG starters will work because the mount holes are clocked differently than the cone on the end of the starter, but they were selling expensive aftermarket starters without a cone that wo
    1 point
  34. Sorry but that is the wrong type of starter, that is like the 320 starter, there are 2 types of starters used by MG, there is that type and the type in the link below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Motor-16164-for-68-81-MG-MGB/293042048758?epid=179619009&hash=item443aaacef6:g:rzQAAOSwpCFcrMWn I need one of these type starters to compare to my J series starter that has the solenoid on the other side of the one in the photo above.
    1 point
  35. So I tried to see how much room I had before the starter cone hits the inside of the transmission, maybe a 1/16th of an inch, I am right on the edge, the starter is also on the edge, it mounts flat on the plate but the solenoid is touching the block, I am considering trying to re-clock the mount holes a 1/16th inch so I can get a feeler gauge in between the starter and the block in that one place, I would feel better about it. I tried using a 225mm throw out bearing collar again, it just will not work, there was no play in the clutch arm, it was jammed against the front of the case clutch
    1 point
  36. OK, I will try to answer your questions, no I didn't rotate the transmission case, I rotated where the J13/15 starter mounted, the J series starter is not as large as the L block starter, when I centered the J series starter in the L series case starter area the starter hit the distributor and the J15 block, since there was a little room left in the L series starter area, I welded up the original J series starter holes I made and I rotated the J series starter hole down as far as I thought I could without hitting the inside of the L series case with the cone part of the starter, now the J seri
    1 point
  37. I only made this plate over the last couple days(part time), I have not put it in anything other than the engine test stand, in the end I thought this might interest 320 owners, as when one changes out the rear gears you lose the grunt power 4.88 gears had, but if one has another gear maybe it would be a more friendly driver with the stock gearing. I didn't think about this till just now, but the 1985/86 Nissan 720 5spd came with a napZ front case, I might be able to make an adapter plate for that transmission as the one I made is for a L block case, but if I can not get the starte
    1 point
  38. I have converted two ka24e MPI engines to carburetor. I used a 1978 - 1979 ford 2.3L engine carbs that I got a deal on from a local auto parts store that was closing. They are Holley two barrel two stage carb. I had to install a fuel regulator to lower the pressure to about 8lbs. The fuel regulator needs to be a three port style, there are ways to use a two port(which is what I did) just more work. The stock fuel pump is being used. I made adapter plates, kind of like a high rise intake. I bolted it on to the stock intake manifold. I left the injectors right in there. One took a little tweak
    1 point
  39. I told my GF you sold it. She just didnt understand. In my mind I think you sold it because you ran out of problems with it. You were no longer fabricating stuff every other day. Amazing work Mike and I am sure the new owner is going to be happy with "mikes NL"
    1 point
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