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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/19/2021 in all areas

  1. Finally found one. 1972
    3 points
  2. https://www.mystateline.com/news/gweneth-paltrows-vagina-scented-candle-reportedly-explodes-in-womans-home/ Who buys this shit that doesn't live in their mom's basement?
    3 points
  3. On to the driver's rear arch today. had previously ground this too thin and kept blowing pinholes while trying to fix some cracks, so decided to do it right and replace the section entirely. [/url] Not quite perfect, but good enough fir a little filler and better than thinning the panel out again. Will be improving the panel gap at the bottom soon, same as the other side. Cut/tacked this inner arch to match the other. As said before, i'll be welding/cleaning all this up properly later. Can't really see in the pic, but tapped the outer arch flange back into shape after bending the lip over inside. Some spots that will need a little filler, as with on the other side, but nothing major. Next up, redoing the roof join. Despite my best efforts there was still a little warping, but the warpage is now on the larger section of the panel instead of the roof join, so should be no issue with any filler/lead cracking.
    3 points
  4. I have a big ass order of grade 10.9's on the way. I keep all the original hardware, but I typically don't use it.
    2 points
  5. Thanks.... it's been quite the learning experience.... I had brief moment where I wanted to just put the leaf springs back in..... I'm glad I worked through it.... And I cant thankyou enough for being observant and helpful to get me to this point.... your shop sticker definitely earned its place on my truck....
    2 points
  6. Pat yourself on the back. This is probably the most comprehensive job anyone has done installing this kit. At least that I have seen.
    2 points
  7. Push firmly with thumb half way between pulleys. One belt width is ok. I pry out between alternator and block with a tire iron to get it tight.
    2 points
  8. American troops should be loyal to the Constitution NOT to a specific person or Political Party. This is the type of shit dictators do, the irony being this is the type of crap the Left claimed Trump was doing and being Facist. The Left just loves to project don't they?
    2 points
  9. Asymmetrical.... I call it cockeyed.
    2 points
  10. Asymmetrical nipples. One is more open than the other.
    2 points
  11. My Dad had a '32 Cabriolet like that,in near perfect condition, except it had dual side mounted tires. He paid $2500 for it in 1972,& sold it for almost $25,000 about 25 years later.
    2 points
  12. I put anti seize on my intake bolts and studs. Torq? Tight plus a little is what I do. bolt going in to aluminum always be careful. Its not a Iron V8 from back in the day. All new cars are aluminum now. pull the threads over time then the bolts will work themselves loose
    2 points
  13. Typical Ratsun nerd behavior ... lmfao I can tell you only have one hat rack to hang you shit on! lol
    2 points
  14. They are hard to come by here in Washington state.
    2 points
  15. I've taken mine apart and fixed them many of times. They don't stay rust free for very long. The rubber grommet on the motor shaft is toast on all of them letting water into the motor housing. The position the motor sits in the bag does not help this. Once it's working the best thing to do is keep cycling it every couple weeks to a month year round regardless of the weather. . Letting it sit too long without turning it on is your enemy.
    2 points
  16. I did use the T/O bearing and collar from my 4 speed but I think I just didn't understand what I needed to adjust on the slave. The picture below helped me understand it, so I push the fork all the way back and push the rod all the way then adjust the nuts for 1/16 of play between them and the fork so that the spring will pull the fork back enough to not have the bearing rest against the fingers. And I have a manual choke which I am pretty sure is going to go away with the dual mikunis and if the alternator doesn't work then I put the stock one back one with the external voltage regulator. Everything is either brand new or refreshed so should be good to go as long as my engine building skills are up to par.
    2 points
  17. Adventure time cmon grab that ass.
    2 points
  18. Haven’t had much time to work on it lately, but the rear springs are swapped for a proper fit now. And the fuel tank is completely mounted. I moved the rear crossmember back some, drilled some holes in it and welded nuts to it. That’s the mount for the rear of the straps. For the front mount of the straps, I used a t bolt and some brackets on the coil over cross bar. Drilled holes, inserted the t bolt, the folded the strap around the t bolt and welded it. Now it can be tightened up against the bottom of the bed crossmember. Which is what the angle iron is representing. The tank is an all in one unit from Tanks Inc that has baffling, pump, sump, and fuel sender.
    2 points
  19. Where to begin. I've been racing the SBC powered 280Z, every other year, for 6 years now. 5 final rounds. 3 wins, 2 runners up. In 2019, I raced at Mission Raceway in BC for the season, and gave Pro bracket a try. 3rd place, 1 point behind 2nd, when the trans came apart. Done for the year. It's fixed and ready for battle, but I bought this dragster as a roller and struggled with what direction to got for 2+ years, until the light came on. L20b/ shorty Glide. I've already done a ton of work, (and spent a ton of $$) so I will post up some pics to try to catch up. Here we go.
    1 point
  20. You can seal them but drill a hole in the thermostat so water will circulate past it for the reasons given previously. Connected together is a better set up as the by pass water as it warms goes right back into the block instead out out the top hose and displacing cold water from the cold rad into the cold engine. The warm up is faster when connected.
    1 point
  21. Ok so just block off the second threaded hole on the thermostat housing and clamp off the outlet on the water inlet? I don't need to connect those two together?
    1 point
  22. @datzenmike Do you know what size hose I should run between the thermostat and water inlet? That would then tell me what size barb fitting I need to buy.
    1 point
  23. the bypass hose that goesto the intake manifold to warm it up. Since you got sidedafts you need to plug this up. I told you they made one with not that hole. so you can try to a find a plug. the temp hole I would get a new hex nut and temp sender from Nissan. Don't over torq this as those housing will crack
    1 point
  24. Yes it will fit. It positions the alternator very slightly higher. It was one of the reasons I put one on my 620 when I put the larger diameter 50/60 amp alternator on it. You might need a slightly shorter belt.
    1 point
  25. thanks, i'll check out the info
    1 point
  26. Yes I mocked up the coilovers without the springs and checked the bumpstops would hit first, might add a small spacer to the bump stops just to make them touch a slight bit sooner.... just didn't take pictures of all that..... I cycled it with them and then further out of their range without them .... all moves nice, no binding.... Bed won't be going on till probably this summer... that needs to be stripped and painted properly.....
    1 point
  27. Exhaust and intake studs antisieze or no? And what do I torque them to?
    1 point
  28. And @thisismatt those parts are most likely going to stay NOS.
    1 point
  29. I have a 69 parts truck located in Arroyo Grande, CA. If you think you'll be by that area some time, let me know. It's my mom's property so we'd have to work out a weekend time to meet.
    1 point
  30. ATI made the mate up possible. The torque converter was $1300 alone, so there’s no turning back now.
    1 point
  31. So you're looking for a steering column and steering box? His truck doesn't have one at all? Craigslist? The For Sale or Want Ad forums on here? The FB versions? Scrapyards? Shipping would be extremely expensive so try to find one locally. Good luck!!
    1 point
  32. Thanks for your reply. All of the steering column including the gear box. This Is what Dad is telling me ( he’s a 75 year old determined to male this truck run! I hope this make sense. Trying to help him put...
    1 point
  33. I just rewatched the running man earlier ,, check out the very start .. The writers missed the year by just over 3 years .
    1 point
  34. Front is mostly complete, I need to figure out the sway bar situation and that should wrap it up.
    1 point
  35. Went camping over memorial weekend. Pic dump incoming.
    1 point
  36. The trick was (after messing with various spacers) I slid an inch long section of rubber hose over the steering shaft to past the splines where it's smaller. Then the conical section in the adapter ( behind its splines) snugged up on the hose as the nut was tightened. I also had to tap the cancellation pins a little to stop hitting the turn signal
    1 point
  37. thanks for showing us how to adjust it properly. Seems Like a pain to do on the truck though.
    1 point
  38. Awesome once again!! A suggestion: to prevent the bearings from falling out the races (seemed like it was troublesome :lol:) maybe you could use a magnet to hold it in place? I've used this trick a couple times on assembling things and it always works out awesome!
    1 point
  39. Did a bit of comparison of a 510 auto column and the 521. Not so much a mod, but could be. Using the same process of shortening, a person could splice a 510 and 521 column together and end up with a crush zone in their 521...much safer. I might consider it, but I have a another route I may take. The pics/vids are more informational since there's no real mod going on here.
    1 point
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