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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/17/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
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  7. 2 points
    I saw someone (an idiot) driving around alone with a mask on.
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  10. 2 points
    Stoffregen, that is a nice clean system, I like how you've got that hangar tucked up inside the factory bracket. I still have to put my hangars on so will definitely allow for expansion. klam07, there is a warehouse service there in Sweetgrass (Montana Shipping) that will receive & hold freight for up to 6 months I think, pretty reasonable fee based on size/weight. Considering how much cheaper freight is to locations within the lower 48 (sometimes free) it is well worth it. And I've found a few times that something won't ship to Canada but will to the US, so that has saved me as well (new rubber body mounts from Thailand was one). And save even more cash, any part for a vehicle 25+ years or older is Duty Exempt. And yes that tubing is 2.25", optimal size for the exhaust flow. I will be lowering the truck only a little as it is being built to be driven & roads here have so many frost heaves and potholes I gotta have some clearance.
  11. 2 points
    Manufacturers sticker on tire is a good touch!!
  12. 2 points
    I assume if a woman is packing she knows how to shoot balls off.
  13. 2 points
    Maybe they're just trying to say women can't aim very well and thus need higher capacity mags to get the job done?
  14. 2 points
    Come on. That’s exactly why they plugged rape into their argument against magazine limits. It’s a very shit thing that is hard to argue against but it’s not the topic at hand. Smoke screen argument. If choosing your battles is a quality, it’s a quality I lack. I barely give a fuck about this one. I just found it odd as fuck that they would use rape as a context for their overturn. I usually earn credit because I don’t think I’m better than you. But I do argue too much... stupid internet. My internet persona has strayed.
  15. 2 points
    It's a handy thing to have around... 😁 Speaking of which, I finally got some argon Friday, so Tim boxed in that mount for me... Got that cleaned and painted, then moved it outside to prep for install... I was also able to get the bits I needed to finish making the control arms... And some pipe to make a panhard rod... Hoping to get the axle in place, and the control arms mounted, on Wednesday. That way I can measure for the panhard rod and build it, then measure and see what length the springs need to be. 👍
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    @Datsun Dude - I ended up putting that engine and transmission in my '68 Toyota Corona Coupe, which is now my daily driver: But, I have a 1999 1.6L Miata engine (not available in US) with automatic that I am currently installing in the 411 wagon. I have engine and transmission mounts done, fuel tank modified for EFI and new driveshaft made. I've swapped in the 411 A/T column selector from my parts stash and have modified the Miata transmission so that they work well together with a Geo Tracker shift cable. This weekend I am running new brake lines and new fuel lines, and hopefully installing the fuel filter. That will clear the way for doing lots of wiring next week. Because this swap is pretty straight forward, I added a side project of building a custom HVAC setup for it. It uses A/C and heater components from a 1995 Geo Metro (the smallest I could find among JY cars) and a custom airbox to hold the condenser and heater core. It is very compact. The stock switch runs the fan, and the stock levers will control... something. @Pedro - The steering centerlink requires this notch in the Miata oilpan, the same as what I had to do for my Corona. That's the only modification needed. The front crossmember stays the same. I have to modify the transmission tunnel for the A/T, but the manual transmission did not require tunnel mods to fit. You would want to modify the Miata 5 speed shift turret, though, to move the shifter about 4" forward. It's a pretty easy process. Here is the modified fuel tank. I added a late 90s Honda EFI fuel pump assembly, modified for the Datsun's deeper tank. I also have a handmade sump tray in the tank. I soldered a 8mm quick connect to the Honda's 6mm return pipe because the Miata lines are all 8mm. I could have installed the Honda pump with just a 2.5" hole and six studs welded to the top of the tank. But, years ago, before I had these tank conversions figured out, I cut a big hole in this tank that I needed to patch with the plate. I will need to make a little cover for the new fuel gauge sender access hole. I'm trying to get this done fairly quickly. I'm moving in October and don't want to have to tow this car! Once I have it running/driving I'll post more details about the process. Jesse.
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  21. 2 points
    One of the illumination lamps, in the combo meter I put in Dragon last week, was not working, and when I used the left turn signal, the illumination lamp closest to the left turn signal would blink. I have changed the four illumination lamps in the combo meter to LED lamps. To fix this, you need to remove the combo meter from the truck. Disconnect the negative battery cable. My 521 has a tachometer, mounted to the steering column. I disconnected the tachometer from the column, and just let it hang on its wire harness. There are two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the plastic cover over the combo meter. Remove the two screws. With both bottom screws removed hold each end of the plastic cover, and gently pull straight down. Do not pull away from the dash, slide it down, while holding it close to the dash board. The cover slid down. The speedometer cable is held to the back of the combo meter, with a nut you unscrew. In this picture, my fingers are on the nut, above the bracket. There are two machine screws, with nuts and washers holding the top of the combo meter in the dash board. Usually, by turning the screw, the nut will loosen. The nut cab be held with a 3/8 open end wrench. I hold the nut and washer with my finger as it is loosened After the screw is out, I carefully slide the nut and washer out until I can put my thumb on them, to avoid dropping the nut or washer. If you do drop them, they may stay on the lip in the bottom edge of the dashboard, or they could fall on the floor of the truck. If you vacuum all the crud on the trucks floor before you start this, it will be easier to find any dropped parts. I am right handed, and I can this easier on the right top screw than the left side. For left side top screw, do not completely remove the nut. There is enough room to slide the combo right, and it is free of the left side screw. If you have not done it already, disconnect the speedometer cable. There is a plug on the back of the combo meter that makes all the electrical connections to the combo meter. Very carefully work the plug off the back of the combo meter. The connection pins can be pulled off the combo meter's printed circuit board. This is the plug disconnected from the printed circuit board. In the center of the picture is the speedometer cable. The combo meter is out of the truck, and now you can work on it. Here is a picture of the back of a combo meter, one from one of my other 521 truck, Ratsun. This was from April 2011. First thing, what do the pins hook up to. I had to clean the contacts on the circuit board, the contacts in the bulb holders, the bulbs themselves. Here is a picture of one of the lamp holder holes, half cleaned. I used a Scotchbright abrasive pad to clean the contacts. In this picture, one side is cleaned, the other is not. I also had to repair some grounds on the circuit board. the circuit board does not have a full copper trace for the grounds, but uses the metal case, and rivets through the circuit board to complete the grounds. To repair the grounds, I had to bridge the head of rivet to the trace on the circuit board. Then I had to test the combo meter. Get a 12 volt battery, and hook the negative up to pin 10. Apply 12 positive to pin 1, the four dash lights should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 2, the left turn light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 9, the high beam light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 12, the right turn light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 7, and ground pin 4, the oil light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 7, and ground pin 8, the IGN (alt) light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 7 and ground pin 10, and also ground pin 3, the fuel gauge should go to full. Apply 12 positive to pin 7 and ground pin 10, and also ground pin 11, the temp gauge should go to hot. OK, back to the combo meter from Dragon, in July 2020. A quick review, one illumination lamp was not working, but it did flash with the left turn signals, but not flash the turn signal indicator. This is what I call a "wacky electrical problem". Wacky electrical problems are almost always caused by bad grounds. Using a small 12 volt battery, I connected the ground pin, at 10:00 on the circuit, to battery negative, and dash lights pin, at 1:00 on the circuit board to battery positive. If you look near the bottom of this picture, the holes in the fuel gauge back are lit up, but the light in the upper right corner of the picture are dark. In this picture, the upper right corner is lit. There is also an electrical probe contacting the brass rivet, and the copper circuit board trace below the rivet. I used a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper on a pop-sickle stick to clean the edge of the brass rivet, and the copper trace by the rivet. The roll of solder in the background should give a clue to what I did next. I put a small bead of solder bridging the rivet to the copper trace, reconnected the ground and illumination lights pins to the battery, and the light is on. the tuen signal lamp holder is out of the board at this point. I put it back in, I moved the wire from positive battery to the left turn signal pin, 2:00 on the circuit board plug. I left the ground wire on the 10:00 pin on the circuit board. With the combo meter repaired from this problem, time to put it back in the truck. I pushed the left top screw with the nut and washer already on out away from the dashboard. At this point, I held the combo meter close to the dashboard, and plugged the electrical connector back in to the board. Look back at the picture labelling the pins, there is a key way in the center hole that matches a key on the center pin of the wire harness plug. carefully plug the wire harness to the printed circuit board. I then slid the combo meter bracket under the screw head, and tightened it some, but not all the way. This is the right side combo meter bracket, I put the screw in through the bracket, and then the hole in the dashboard, and carefully put the washer on the back of the screw, and then balancing the nut on my fingertip, held the nut, and then turned the screw with a screwdriver, no picture of that, both hands were occupied. Tighten both top screws on the combo meter brackets. Then holding the plastic cover below the combo meter, and next to the dash board slide it up. It will snap into place, if hooked correctly. Then put the two bottom sheet metal screws back in the bottom of the plastic cover. When nothing works on the truck, go back and reconnect the negative battery cable.
  22. 1 point
    I just looked at my Nissan 1984 service manual, in the trouble shooting section it said dim light on one side means burnt fuse. Also it mentioned if voltage was below 12.8 to check the charging system for proper operation, it also mentioned dim lights could be a burnt fusible link, but I would assume both lights would be dim if either of these were the issue.
  23. 1 point
    I’ll post a pic in a bit but yes my switch has the 5 terminals 3 up top and 2 bottom. My switch is like the 75-79 in terms of position of the key on off it’s on center I go left on the switch and it’s on acc if I go clock wise from off position once it’s at on I go once more it’s on start
  24. 1 point
    Crap maybe I could have gotten more for my 510 than $5000
  25. 1 point
    I ask for Centric hydraulic cylinders at my local auto parts store, Clackamas auto parts. The slave cylinder that was in Dragon has been in there easily for more than 30 years, but there is a long period of time from the mid 1990's to about 2007 that Dragon was not running. Then Dragon spent a lot of time being driven on my farm, not getting many miles, and some of that time I did not even have the dashboard in Dragon. Dragon also has a 2000 roadster pressure plate, that puts a lot more pressure on the clutch hydraulics
  26. 1 point
    Blood and shit don't mix.
  27. 1 point
    Every female I have taught to shoot has done some shooting on a full size body silhouette targets. Mid and low shots. At close range, because that is where it happens the most.
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  29. 1 point
    Which 411? T he PL411 with J engine or the RL411 with R engine. Makes a big difference.
  30. 1 point
    Hey, we are learning how to play the "Victim" from you Lefties. And it feels great to have 30 rounds! Or more!!
  31. 1 point
    I'm native nothing, just another howlie. I didn't know that about native Hawaiians. Oregon (Portland) like Seattle is lost, both have been liberal(crazy liberal) for a long time. Boise, has always been the "liberal" town, but that meant they didn't let their children own guns until high school. Maybe I put too much faith in my neighbors (especially since many of my neighbors are new) and Boise is pretty damn "progressive", but me and other old guys might view those who vandalize and create unrest as dangerous and make us fear for our lives. America the land of the free and, as said by Gun's and Rose's, "You can have anything you want, but you better not take it from me."
  32. 1 point
    Do you still have the wheel well "extension"/cover? I bet you could sell it if you don't want it. Makes a good compartment to put something else, like a small remote battery.
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    Someone on the inside is hooking someone up on fresh shippers. I have the same problem with my local Ralph's market. I showed up one day as the guy was wheeling them out as some guy was digging through them! I started looking and the guy got all uppity, I told him to fuck off and get out of my way! These Scalpers/Hoarders are really messing it up for collectors.
  38. 1 point
    Missus Kelmo found the Silvia, I found the Dime. The Silvia is in the series that has the 1200 Ute..which I would ALMOST orally gratify a long cylindrical object for.
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    Fireball by Benjamin Scott Cook, on Flickr
  41. 1 point
    Pulled the motor to facilitate welding the cracked chassis and address a noisy throw-out bearing. 6:34 P.M. by Benjamin Scott Cook, on Flickr 8:40 P.M. by Benjamin Scott Cook, on Flickr 8:41 P.M. by Benjamin Scott Cook, on Flickr
  42. 1 point
    And it came in today! :thumbup: Body casting is very nice. Oddly, the flares are separate pieces, and of course they don't have the indentions for the rivets so I'll have to get crafty there... Comes with stock hubcaps and a nice deep set of Wats... Comes with a complete S20 twin cam engine... And a complete L-series engine... Actually comes with 3 dashes, a LHD and a RHD dash for the regular Z, and a RHD dash for the Z432R... And for unexplained reasons, it came with this parts tree for a C10 Skyline GT-R? I assume that was the easiest way for them to include the GT-Rs twin exhaust tips, which the Z432R also came with... It comes with a BRE style rear spoiler, as well as the Z432R spoiler. :thumbup: It's a very nice kit if you're looking for a "low budget" 240Z kit to build. I would recommend it.
  43. 1 point
    Well, I just took the plunge and added 2002 Rodeo seats- and I am glad I did! What an improvement! Since this picture was taken, I mounted the other seat up to the rails and installed it in the truck. I don‘t need all that fancy schmancy electric stuff, this is plenty good enough for a long drive. I am sure that I could do 8 hour days in these, if need be. Around town, a huge improvement in terms of comfort and ride. I find that the seat angle is just fine, with no need to shim anything. Yes, it is about an inch higher when I am seated, but that is because there is ample padding and real springs supporting the seat cushion. I have back issues, and this is a real improvement over stock seats. A simple adjustment of the rear view mirror and the tilt wheel, and I am good to go. I like sitting a scosh taller in the cab. Having said this, I am more determined than ever to re-build a stock seat in a much higher than stock quality sort of way, with a better biscuit, springs on the straps, smart padding, and real leather covers.
  44. 1 point
    My other car is a POS too! LOL. Wife drives the new one, I like my old trucks. 2 720 4x4's an F250 4x4, and my baby a 66 Chevy C-10 Short Wide 4x2 that bastardized a bit with a big block Olds 455.
  45. 1 point
    What can you buy for $3200.00? Not much, besides do you really want to be driving the same thing as everyone else? I don't know about your neck of the woods but these old trucks are getting scarce around here. Parts are going obsolete. That makes you hone your skills, figure out alternatives, make things work, be creative. Yes its a hobby and I like the challenge. If you have a nice 4x4 720 you probably won't pass another one every 5 minutes. I like that too. You could do a lot worse things with your $3200.00.
  46. 1 point
    I actually got pretty lucky with these seats. The rodeo had only been in there a few days and they weren't torn up. I didn't look at how many miles it had. They were disgusting though, so I used my carpet cleaner and removed several gallons of brown butt sweat from the seat cushions, and my handy little pressure steamer to clean all the dust and grease off the sides and frame. They were only $40.
  47. 1 point
    There is a gap in the center of the bench and a fabric cover over the gap. The seat back is bench but the seat bottom is more bucket. I have one from a parts truck sitting in the back of my quad cab build.
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    I did a few vids of taking the tumbler out of the 521 ign switch. Good info if you need to re-key or you're just curious about what the switch looks like inside :) http://www.bluehandsinc.com/ignition-switch.html
  50. 1 point
    Very interesting, I now have an idea how the ignition switch works.
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