Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 5 points
    Finally got around to cleaning my pigsty of a workbench. Properly bolted the taillights on for the first time and drilled the holes for the top trim clips: It is super nice to know that the rear end is DONE. A far cry from not that long ago:
  3. 4 points
  4. 4 points
  5. 3 points
    Oh, this is going to end up badly https://www.foxnews.com/us/black-armed-militia-planning-louisville-march-claims-its-not-f-ing-around
  6. 3 points
    You say that from a position of Datsun privilege.
  7. 3 points
    I liked the Cuz merica thread. Very enlightening vantage point for me living in my liberal bubble. I disagree with so much here, but I truly do appreciate seeing it. Wearing blinders benefits no one.
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    Mike, you forgot Goon ......... Wagon
  10. 3 points
    Datto................. Datsun Damper............ shock absorber Sump............... oil pan Matchbox....... EI dizzy (see below) Dizzy............... distributor
  11. 3 points
    Cant wait for Australia to become such fair and equal socialist country.... sounds great.
  12. 3 points
  13. 2 points
    A little background, I've had this Z for 21 years and spent the last decade restoring and modifying it to what it is today. I got it back from paint in August of 19 and cranked it on February 1, 2020. I was totally done in April. The car has been dyno tuned at Soho Motorsports in Charlotte NC along with a rather aggressive street alignment. Everything on the car is brand new, here is a run down of some of the parts. All the work with exception of paint was done by me. 270/270 at the wheels at 2574 lbs. 2005 350Z engine with matching 6spd -Z1 lightweight fly and crank pulley, kinetix upper plenum, hoke performance shifter relocation 350z complete clutch pedal assembly with master and reservior Custom griffin radiator with recovery system Custom driveshaft with 1320 joints R200 3.5 with Mfactory helical locker (3.9 was too spicy for the street) Troy Ermish cv axles/adapters Toyota front brakes, 240sx rear, stainless steel lines 350z Brake booster 1" wilwood master cylinder w/proportioning valve Modified stock fuel tank with aeromotive stealth phantom system, -6 lines TTT control arms, Ground Control coilovers, camber plates Rota RBR 17x8.5 wheels w/ 245/40 tires - custom center cap stickers Speedhut Revolution gauges Modified center console- moved the shifter location back 2" and abs plastic center panel wrapped in alcontara suede. NRG quick disconnect with NRG steering wheel Electric power steering from zpowersteering.com - freaking awesome btw LED headlights, turn signals, markers, and taillights - also sequential RFID push button start- when approaching the car unlocks, and locks when you walk away I rewired the entire car, i think i added around 12 relays. But it all works! I'm sure there is a lot more stuff, tons of details. I have put about 250 miles on it so far...it's incredible, amazing level of grip. Oh and it has a 7 speaker audio system with bluetooth and handsfree calling (not that I can actually hear anything). Tweeters are in the dash vents, and a 12" sub/amp is in the spare tire well. And now for the pictures!
  14. 2 points
    So instead of reforming and eliminating the people who are bad....We just get rid of the whole institution? oh and BTW yes they do mean "Get rid of.", "Abolish", and "Do away with." the institution.
  15. 2 points
    No, Nissan FPRs are not all the same. However, doing my research on the Aussie RB FSM pdf, fuel pressure is 42.67 psi, so 43 psi for the RB20DET. Found the NA SR20 stateside is also 43 psi and has about the same curvature of line, and hopefully same two bolt attachment point and o-ring fitting. So I ordered that in. The forward FPR (two on RB20s) is a straight version, and I found a KA D21 FPR is the same ONLY for the California model. It's 43 psi. Regular version is 45 psi. Whether that's a typo or not I'm not sure, but they are physically different. So I'll get that one too. I would prefer to make a one-regulator system, but I'm trying to keep the RB bone stock so I don't have issues, and there's a reason they used two. I'm not sure what that is yet, but I have faith in the Nissan engineers. Plus, if this works, it's a 30 minute fix, vs. block of plates, re-routing, finding a spot for an aftermarket regulator, etc. If I was going for mods, I'd be all over it. But the wagon needs to be a reliable daily. Stock it is. 210-220 hp is plenty for a 910 wagon. Though I will say the RB20 has zero power when it's not in boost. Once boost hits, oh baby it's nice!
  16. 2 points
    I have driven Dragon about 80 miles or so on roads now, and finding minor things that need attention. I have an extra instrument cluster, or as Datsun calls it, a combo meter. I changed the combo meter, and the temp gauge is now indicating about what I would expect. The gas gauge reads a little lower. Before getting Dragon driving on the road, I drove Dragon around the farm a lot, and once it ran out of gas, when the fuel gauge was not completely on empty. In my experience, when the fuel gauge is reading empty, you watch the fuel gauge when you first start the truck. If the gauge stays on empty, you need to get gas first thing. if there is still a little more gas in the tank, when you first start the truck, the gauge will "flare" a bit above empty, then drop down as the mechanical gauge heats up. The first time I took Dragon on the freeway, the speedometer was reading way high. It had a 17 tooth black speedometer pinion in the transmission. Last year I was able to get a 20 tooth red pinion from a 620 in a junkyard, and I put that in the transmission last week. Now the speedometer reads within a few MPH of what my cell phone says I am moving. To change the speedometer pinion, I drove the rear wheels up on some ramps I have. Putting the rear of the truck on the ramps lets the gear lube in the transmission run forward, and away from the speedometer pinion hole. The headlights needed aiming, I did that, and took another short test drive at night. Dragon has Cibie 55 watt H4 high beam headlights. As I was started to drive Dragon around local roads I have driven Ratsun on, it seemed that Dragon was rather gutless. I also could not really feel when the secondary of the carb was opening. Ratsun has a 1980 720 tired? L-20-B, with a wide ratio five speed, 4.375 rear axle. I believe that transmission has a 3.6 first gear ratio. Dragon has a rebuilt head on a L-18, with a five speed transmission I bought new from a Datsun dealer in the late 1970's, this transmission has a 3.3 first gear, and closer gears through out the range. I am not sure if overdrive fifth is the same on both transmissions. Anyway, I used a small pair of vice grips to clamp the gas pedal to the pedal stop with the gas pedal floored. Then I reached under the rear of the air cleaner, and still could move the primary throttle open more, quite a bit. I adjusted some slack out of the throttle cable, and also adjusted the pedal stop on the floor lower, to allow more gas pedal travel. I also checked the ignition timing, and was able to advance it a bit. With those two changes, Dragon does not seem as gutless any more, but generally Dragon likes to be about one gear lower than Ratsun does going up hills around home. Dragon runs smoother than Ratsun, and is a lot quieter, and actually a little more pleasant to drive. But I am still staying closer to home, to give me a change to find any other issues that might be inconvenient on a longer trip. Here is a picture of the left side of Dragon. The hood on Dragon is from another one of my 521 trucks, and I need to finish straightening a front apron, and paint it, and put it on Dragon. The cab and bed need body work, and fresh paint, and soon I plan on adding fog lights to Dragon. The interior needs work, the steering need repair, I am messing around with some fiberglass and marine epoxy to repair the steering wheel. The cardboard glove box is not in Dragon, it needs repair too. But I can drive it, and after about a month and a half delay from the state, I finally got the registration stickers for it.
  17. 2 points
    I have never used that term until now I saw everyone use it. I got helped already and install my ballast as well as the pertronix. I am now waiting on my disk brake parts and brackets to arrive soon to install my disk brake conversion.
  18. 2 points
    Can't work on my Datsun because America is so effed up 😂
  19. 2 points
    Wow, yep, this is why I left. Thought politics weren't allowed any more? I, for one, am more concerned with the leaking fuel pressure regulator on my RB. That should be solved tomorrow. If more people went and worked on their Datsuns, America would be a better place.
  20. 2 points
    You're a birther, right? It's too bad because I could do a better job simply by doing nothing most of the time. I NEVER tweet, ever and golf isn't a sport but a wast of time. I don't meddle after jobs are assigned and I have an impressive grasp of the use of adjectives and my staff wouldn't be criminals. I would kick Kim right in the nuts and arm wrestle Putin and win... then head butt him. Not ever would my press secretary have to say "I think what President Mike meant was...."
  21. 2 points
    And I don't even disagree with you tr8er, I just think the left is batshit crazy & unhinged to the max.
  22. 2 points
    Obama made fun of special needs people (in a joke he made about his poor bowling performance) and you probably never heard about it, never mind had it brought up over and over again. He said things as stupid as visiting 57 states, and it never gets repeated. Trump says something stupid and the sky is falling. It's twisted and misconstrued six ways to Sunday.
  23. 2 points
    And this is next... I found a 2001 frontier Ka24de 5 spd slightly wrecked for $600 (for the entire truck) so that is the donor for the 620.
  24. 2 points
    Their women are always stoned...
  25. 1 point
    Anyone know where I could find a replacement? not sure exactly what it is i am looking for
  26. 1 point
    I’m guessing you know this, but the call out is not to abolish the police. It is to employ alternate modalities to the effort of a peaceful society. As we well know, drugs and poverty are drivers of crime. The movement to reduce police forces is really an effort to proactively reduce crime before it happens instead of the current strategy of penalizing after it happens. The former costing tax payers many many times more for incarceration and rehabilitation. The logic is sound, and we have a shit ton of examples of its effectiveness as well as how to do it. It’s just not the way of the USA. I’m not at all against having a police force. But I’d shove a prison shank up the ass of the police union if I could. That alone likely would fix this. Or would have prevented the state of the force currently. Bad cops never get fired. That’s the real issue.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr Some more crap for coupe.
  29. 1 point
    Hope it isn't Nigel's heater.
  30. 1 point
    One of the illumination lamps, in the combo meter I put in Dragon last week, was not working, and when I used the left turn signal, the illumination lamp closest to the left turn signal would blink. I have changed the four illumination lamps in the combo meter to LED lamps. To fix this, you need to remove the combo meter from the truck. Disconnect the negative battery cable. My 521 has a tachometer, mounted to the steering column. I disconnected the tachometer from the column, and just let it hang on its wire harness. There are two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the plastic cover over the combo meter. Remove the two screws. With both bottom screws removed hold each end of the plastic cover, and gently pull straight down. Do not pull away from the dash, slide it down, while holding it close to the dash board. The cover slid down. The speedometer cable is held to the back of the combo meter, with a nut you unscrew. In this picture, my fingers are on the nut, above the bracket. There are two machine screws, with nuts and washers holding the top of the combo meter in the dash board. Usually, by turning the screw, the nut will loosen. The nut cab be held with a 3/8 open end wrench. I hold the nut and washer with my finger as it is loosened After the screw is out, I carefully slide the nut and washer out until I can put my thumb on them, to avoid dropping the nut or washer. If you do drop them, they may stay on the lip in the bottom edge of the dashboard, or they could fall on the floor of the truck. If you vacuum all the crud on the trucks floor before you start this, it will be easier to find any dropped parts. I am right handed, and I can this easier on the right top screw than the left side. For left side top screw, do not completely remove the nut. There is enough room to slide the combo right, and it is free of the left side screw. If you have not done it already, disconnect the speedometer cable. There is a plug on the back of the combo meter that makes all the electrical connections to the combo meter. Very carefully work the plug off the back of the combo meter. The connection pins can be pulled off the combo meter's printed circuit board. This is the plug disconnected from the printed circuit board. In the center of the picture is the speedometer cable. The combo meter is out of the truck, and now you can work on it. Here is a picture of the back of a combo meter, one from one of my other 521 truck, Ratsun. This was from April 2011. First thing, what do the pins hook up to. I had to clean the contacts on the circuit board, the contacts in the bulb holders, the bulbs themselves. Here is a picture of one of the lamp holder holes, half cleaned. I used a Scotchbright abrasive pad to clean the contacts. In this picture, one side is cleaned, the other is not. I also had to repair some grounds on the circuit board. the circuit board does not have a full copper trace for the grounds, but uses the metal case, and rivets through the circuit board to complete the grounds. To repair the grounds, I had to bridge the head of rivet to the trace on the circuit board. Then I had to test the combo meter. Get a 12 volt battery, and hook the negative up to pin 10. Apply 12 positive to pin 1, the four dash lights should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 2, the left turn light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 9, the high beam light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 12, the right turn light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 7, and ground pin 4, the oil light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 7, and ground pin 8, the IGN (alt) light should turn on. Apply 12 positive to pin 7 and ground pin 10, and also ground pin 3, the fuel gauge should go to full. Apply 12 positive to pin 7 and ground pin 10, and also ground pin 11, the temp gauge should go to hot. OK, back to the combo meter from Dragon, in July 2020. A quick review, one illumination lamp was not working, but it did flash with the left turn signals, but not flash the turn signal indicator. This is what I call a "wacky electrical problem". Wacky electrical problems are almost always caused by bad grounds. Using a small 12 volt battery, I connected the ground pin, at 10:00 on the circuit, to battery negative, and dash lights pin, at 1:00 on the circuit board to battery positive. If you look near the bottom of this picture, the holes in the fuel gauge back are lit up, but the light in the upper right corner of the picture are dark. In this picture, the upper right corner is lit. There is also an electrical probe contacting the brass rivet, and the copper circuit board trace below the rivet. I used a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper on a pop-sickle stick to clean the edge of the brass rivet, and the copper trace by the rivet. The roll of solder in the background should give a clue to what I did next. I put a small bead of solder bridging the rivet to the copper trace, reconnected the ground and illumination lights pins to the battery, and the light is on. the tuen signal lamp holder is out of the board at this point. I put it back in, I moved the wire from positive battery to the left turn signal pin, 2:00 on the circuit board plug. I left the ground wire on the 10:00 pin on the circuit board. With the combo meter repaired from this problem, time to put it back in the truck. I pushed the left top screw with the nut and washer already on out away from the dashboard. At this point, I held the combo meter close to the dashboard, and plugged the electrical connector back in to the board. Look back at the picture labelling the pins, there is a key way in the center hole that matches a key on the center pin of the wire harness plug. carefully plug the wire harness to the printed circuit board. I then slid the combo meter bracket under the screw head, and tightened it some, but not all the way. This is the right side combo meter bracket, I put the screw in through the bracket, and then the hole in the dashboard, and carefully put the washer on the back of the screw, and then balancing the nut on my fingertip, held the nut, and then turned the screw with a screwdriver, no picture of that, both hands were occupied. Tighten both top screws on the combo meter brackets. Then holding the plastic cover below the combo meter, and next to the dash board slide it up. It will snap into place, if hooked correctly. Then put the two bottom sheet metal screws back in the bottom of the plastic cover. When nothing works on the truck, go back and reconnect the negative battery cable.
  31. 1 point
    I don't know much about your constitution but I assume you don't have a god given right to defense... Your people have no equalizer.
  32. 1 point
    First, I'm not a wiring guru. I can do wiring, but I have to study things a bit. However, I do have a 1973 620 (my Dad bought it brand new), built in July 1973. It is not running, and the wiring to the motor is not hooked up. Although it is in a tight spot I can get into the drivers door if you need any wiring info, particularly from inside the cab. I'm on here usually a couple times a day, and sometimes during the day also (retired). I see you are from Sps, Washington. The only place I could think of off hand that comes close to Sps is Spokane, but I couldn't think what that second "s" is for. I've been to Spokane several times over many years. My Grandfather lived there for quite a few years before he passed away. A pretty area. Don
  33. 1 point
    There is truth in all of this. At the root of this, is the President is the primary representative of the nation. He represents the people on the national stage. Inflammatory remarks, or actions diminish that capacity as some faction of the populous will recognize that as non representative of the nation they hold. And what we see today is exactly why. Sure everyone says shit they’d rather not be quoted as saying. But I’d imagine most, of not all previous presidents of the USA have said far less than this one. At least in their adult life. To that you will say prove it. Which isn’t necessary. It’s perception that matters. It’s perception that leads to other nations to turn their nose at us. Not want to forge deals with. Not want to be seen in support of. So you say so what, everyone says that shit. I say no, not everyone does. Not everyone has examples. And not everyone is expected to. And if they are expected to, they are unfit for one of their primary duties. Mike is definitely not getting elected.
  34. 1 point
    This is a great writeup, I have a 4wd so I can't just take my spindle off like that without getting involved with removing the outer CV joint/drive axle. I am trying to pre-plan pain points on this job, which I am planning to do tomorrow. The only major problem I see is that it does not look like there is enough clearance to lift out the lower joint from the spindle without the joint hitting the outer CV boot/joint. Pic: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cI5qkfpAyMm1fQmhRRuO-8uY663w2qJ5/view?usp=sharing
  35. 1 point
    I already said they are expected to meet a higher standard. At least I hold them to a higher standard.
  36. 1 point
    Yes the output from the alternator should have a fusible link. But with fuses replased with larger amp ratings I'm afraid nothing can be take for granted now. I'm surprised a 100 amp alternator still uses an external voltage regulator. You'd better explain this alternator and some pictures. There is only ONE BLACK THICK wire carrying power from the battery through the firewall. It goes to the ignition switch as well as to one side of the fuse box for things that are not turned off with the ignition like the brake lights, 4 ways, headlights, interior lamp, clock etc. The ignition switch also sends switched power to the fuse box for radio, wipers, heater fan etc. Once at the fuse box all circuits that come back out through the firewall are fused. CanAm is strictly for wiring EFI it's of no use to you.
  37. 1 point
    Idle is probably 5 degrees like the carb Z24.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    I thought that was a country in the Middle East. 🤣
  40. 1 point
    While I was feeding chickens I stopped at the cab shell to refresh my memory about the wiper motor mounting surface. The plan is to use the dimensions you provide, your picture, and make a wooden mock-up of the wiper motor so I can see what I am up against with using the AC unit, and see if it is possible. I spent many years as a custom cabinet maker/installer (ability to solve problems), so I am real hopeful about the possibility. Don
  41. 1 point
    The motor is an SD-22. I have the diesel motor, 5 speed transmission that came with the motor from the factory, a 1982 diesel frame I got from wayno, and a 1973 620 that my Dad bought brand new in 1973. The most that I need is the funds to complete the project, so it will be slow as I come up with the funds. Don
  42. 1 point
    This is really nice. I have not seen these before. Pricey, but a nice solution. Honestly, not much more than a good set of coilovers cost for other vehicles. Nice to see them making the effort to produce the spindle part. Now if they make a 280ZX hub with proper offset that restores 510 front track, you would have the best solution.
  43. 1 point
    Why yes. Got the rest of the linkage today. All Mikuni.
  44. 1 point
    What do you mean, it takes a bit more? It's quite common for carbureted cars/trucks to have hot start issues. Being that you're in LA, could the starting issues be related to high temps? Sometimes you need to lean into the throttle during hot start. Oh by the way, it's a distributor, not a dizzy. Maybe it's just me, but I hate the term dizzy. Seems like lazy English to me.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    If it was me selling,, My wife would probably start closer to 5k ,, cuz I assume I’m dead .
  47. 1 point
    That, and it irritates people. ;D
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Lets see now... he doesn't wear a mask and doesn't support their use because it infringes on freedoms. Holds rallies without social distancing or masks, has no idea what covid 19 is at all and says the most retarted things about it. When the press secretary is constantly explaining "what he really means is" you know he's just fucked up yet again. Hard call on when to shut down but don't give him any credit. I think it shut down in spite of him and would have been sooner. I think he's working for Putin to destroy America or he's the anti-Christ so watch out. You!!!.... could do a better job.
  50. 1 point
    Just in case some one else comes up with this issue, you DO have to remove the axle in order to get the ball joints out. The boot will not allow clearance. Pretty easy, the passenger side took about 2 hours with some cleaning from start to finish. I would highly recommend doing the entire front suspension and steering when you do the ball joints. It makes a world of a difference! I do need to do the steering box. Mine appears to be completely worn out. Even adjusting it does not make much of a difference.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.